Sako 85M Recoil Lug

[jackstrawIII]

Hey guys, I recently bought a Sako 85 Black off GunBroker and the stock is already pretty sticky. Before shelling out the $1000 to have a custom stock made, I figured I’d try to remove the “soft touch” coating and paint it.

I took the stock off to look at it and noticed that something seems really wrong with the recoil lug bedding area on the stock. If you’ll notice, the action has a slot where you’d imagine a stock-mounted steel recoil lug would fit… but the steel bedding block is smooth in that area. It looks like the only recoil transfer point between action and stock is the small oval shaped lug where the action screw attaches.

This seems like a very weak system to me… but am I missing something? What do you guys think? See attached photo.

Also, if I do decide to replace the stock, what I really want is a Sako Hunter by McMillan, which is no longer inlet for the 85 by McMillan from the factory. They do sell it in a flat top version, but none of the smiths I’ve reach out to are willing to inlet it. Anyone know a good smith that could inlet and bed this action into this stock for me if I decide to go that direction? Thanks.

[Doug Lee]

Can you post a picture?
Thanks,
Doug Lee
*

[jackstrawIII]

Photo, just added. Took me a minute to remember how to do it. Thanks Doug.

[4V50 Gary]

Looks like the synthetic stocks rely on the stock screw to the recoil lug to absorb the recoil. On the wood stock models they have a stock cross bolt that runs from left to right to help reinforce the stock.

[jackstrawIII]

Looks like the synthetic stocks rely on the stock screw to the recoil lug to absorb the recoil.

That's exactly what it looks like to me. Just seems very odd and potentially a weak spot?

[fseaman]

Well,

Sorry for the wordy response but knowing how the system works may help you in the future.

All is as it should be.
Oval with threads is the "recoil lug".
Steel plate in the synthetic stock receives the "recoil lug" and transfers energy to the stock.
Front action screw goes into recoil lug through steel plate.

If a wood stock there is an additional pin/bolt that goes through the groove.

Not my favorite recoil lug system but Sako...

The recoil lug's job is to transfer shearing force from recoil to the stock and keep it off the action screws. The Sako system works because the first shot "mates" the recoil lug to the steel plate rear surface, limiting shear load on the action screw.

If you want to give yourself a demonstration of how a recoil lug does it's work. I can give you a simple experiment.

Screw 2 pieces of 2x4 together "face to face" with only 2 screws about 6 inches apart. Offset the 2x4 a little so that one is the "barrel" and one is the "stock".

Stand it on end on concrete and hit the "barrel" with a hammer. In very short order, the screws will either break or pull out.

Make the same setup again but this time, put a "groove" in the 2x4s that will hold a 1x1. Screw it together the same way.

Stand it on end and repeat hitting it. It will take much longer to shear as it has to shear the 1x1 before the screws pull out or break.

[jackstrawIII]

Fseaman, I definitely understand the way a recoil lug works, but your explanation is really well put. It just seemed odd to me that they would use a different recoil lug arrangement on a wood vs synthetic stock (the screw post vs the slot). Looking at it for the first time, it almost seemed like a piece was missing. From the way the receiver slot is cut, I expected to see a corresponding lug on the stock, like you would on a Tikka.

But, apparently they don't think it's needed. Very interesting.

[4V50 Gary]

fseaman - I have trouble with "face to face" and can't conceptualize it. Pictures or drawing/sketch for the dull minded? Is "face to face" a buttjoint (woodworking where two pieces are joined at 90 degree angles) and the "grove" a dado (also woodworking term where a groove is cut into one piece and the other inserted) cut?