CZ RAMI Barrel - Rust or Copper?

[Clippy]

New board member here - apologies if I'm in the wrong place.

Had picked up a CZ RAMI several years ago but hadn't found the opportunity to take it to the range. It's sat in a gun safe for 6 years; it's been cleaned, oiled regularly, dry fired with snap caps, but no outside use.

I'm taking it to the range soon because I intend to work towards concealed carrying it, but when I took a light to the barrel, I noticed some dark brown/red coloring in the chamber. I'd lean towards rust, but I was wondering if copper fouling could look like this after 6 years (the last time it was likely fired). It's completely smooth. The copper fouling around the rifling is the same tint.

Tried CLP and Ballistol with a nylon brush with no change, so I'll have to buy something either way.

1. Do you think it's rust?
2. What do you recommend to treat it? Do you think I should avoid firing it until it's cleaned up?

Appreciate your help.

[FrankenMauser]

Looks like chemical bluing that is now changing colors.

[Clippy]

Originally Posted by FrankenMauser

Looks like chemical bluing that is now changing colors.

Thank you - I honestly didn't realize this could happen, I appreciate it. In that case, I'd just carry on as usual?

[Shadow9mm]

I have a couple questions.

When you say "oiled regularly" how often is that? weekly, monthly, yearly?
What oil did you use?
Was the gun stored with a round or snap cap in the chamber?
Did you shoot steel cased ammo in the gun?

I would agree with some kind of chemical reaction. It could be the oil used. My other though would be that you shot steel cased ammo that had a laquer coating on it and it started to build up in the chamber. Also if it was stored loaded the oil could have had some kind of interaction with the brass or steel case in the chamber. Could also be the snap caps if you were using an anodized aluminum snap caps, you could have had some of the coating come off in the chamber or react with the steel. dis-similar metals can do odd things when they are in contact with each other.

[Clippy]

Originally Posted by Shadow9mm

I have a couple questions.

When you say "oiled regularly" how often is that? weekly, monthly, yearly?
What oil did you use?
Was the gun stored with a round or snap cap in the chamber?
Did you shoot steel cased ammo in the gun?

I would agree with some kind of chemical reaction. It could be the oil used. My other though would be that you shot steel cased ammo that had a laquer coating on it and it started to build up in the chamber. Also if it was stored loaded the oil could have had some kind of interaction with the brass or steel case in the chamber. Could also be the snap caps if you were using an anodized aluminum snap caps, you could have had some of the coating come off in the chamber or react with the steel. dis-similar metals can do odd things when they are in contact with each other.

Very good questions.

• Regularly was semi-annually, so that's honestly an extremely generous assessment on my end!
• Oil was generic Hoppe's lubricating oil along the rails/some springs, CLP to lightly coat exterior of barrel (interior too, but then ran a dry patch - which is probably unnecessary)
• Gun was stored without a magazine inserted. I can't remember the name of the snap cap brand, but they're plastic red with a metal primer and an interior spring. I feel like you're onto something though, because there is an "anti" pattern in the chamber that looks like it matches up with where the snap cap was. I'll attach a picture. Snap cap was in the chamber for around 2 hours at most at any given time. I'd read hammer fired CZ's shouldn't really be dry fired without a snap cap, so I'd say the majority of dry fires had one in the chamber
• Gun has not been fired since CGW completed initial work/sale on the firearm.

In the attached image, there is a wear pattern that matches up with where the base of the snap cap would sit - in that spot, there's no red/brown pattern.

For when I do finally get to shoot this pistol, I bought some S&B in 124 grain because I read CZ's generally handle it really well.

[Shadow9mm]

Probably the snap caps then.

S&b is good full power ammo in my experience.

If your storing it long periods of time, i would lightly oil a patch and run it through 2-3 times. I would not follow with a dry patch. You want to leave a nice light coating of oil in the barrel to prevent rust.

If you do start carrying, i would reccomended cleaning(more getting the dust and lint out than anything) and oiling monthly. And do follow up with a dry patch. Dust and lint will stick to the oil causing a mesy buildup when carried. But its way less of an issue stored in a safe for long periods so no need for the dry patch.

[Clippy]

Originally Posted by Shadow9mm

Probably the snap caps then.

S&b is good full power ammo in my experience.

If your storing it long periods of time, i would lightly oil a patch and run it through 2-3 times. I would not follow with a dry patch. You want to leave a nice light coating of oil in the barrel to prevent rust.

If you do start carrying, i would reccomended cleaning(more getting the dust and lint out than anything) and oiling monthly. And do follow up with a dry patch. Dust and lint will stick to the oil causing a mesy buildup when carried. But its way less of an issue stored in a safe for long periods so no need for the dry patch.

I appreciate this advice! I'll remove the dry patching when long-term storing from now on, and if it is comfortable enough to carry consistently, I'll keep dry patching and I'll clean/maintain more often.

Thanks again

[Dfariswheel]

Lose the synthetic bore brush. These are not very effective.
Buy some bronze bore brushes. These will actually work well.
Don't buy stainless brushes, those can damage the chamber.

Just use a good bore solvent and the bronze brush. If it's some sort of fouling it will come out.
CLP and Ballistol can be used to clean, but a dedicated bore solvent works faster and much better.

Ordinary Hoppe's #9 works very well.
If you just need to clean the chamber, buy a bronze chamber brush.
Insert into the chamber and rotate a few turns.

https://www.brownells.com/tools-clea...amber-brushes/

[44 AMP]

For storage after cleaning, dry patches until all the solvent is gone, then run an oily patch down the barrel and store the gun that way.

Run a dry patch(s) to remove the oil before the next use. 2 months or 2 years, this method works and has since the black powder days.

After the barrel is clean, oil it for storage, then remove the oil before use.

IF you are going to store the gun for an extended period of time (many years, a decade or more) you should use a preservative oil, NOT the usual lube for use.

Regular (and especially older formulas) of lubricating oil can "dry out" over many years of storage, and form a lacquer like compound that can render the gun "frozen". I've seen it.

After my father passed (2003) I wound up with the task of checking his guns. I don't think he had touched any of them during the las 10 or 15 years of his life. His "nightstand" gun was in a dresser drawer, a Colt Govt model .45.

When I picked it up, I could tell by the weight it was loaded, so I dropped the magazine (fully loaded, 7 rmds GI ball) and pulled the slide back to check the chamber (it was empty) when I released the slide it crept slooowly closed and stopped about a half inch from fully shut, due to the oil having turned to "glue". Also found his Savage 99 with the safety on, and frozen in position for the same reason. Applied WD40 and let it soak overnight, Then I was able to move the safety to off and open the action. It was not loaded.

Point here is that if you know you're not going to use the gun for years, don't just leave it with the regular lubricating oil and think it will be ok. It might be, or it might not be, depending on what effect time has on the oil.

[Clippy]

Dfariswheel and 44, I appreciate your advice!


I'm sorry to hear about your father 44, and I will take this to heart. I definitely didn't intend to let it sit unfired for so long, but lesson is now learned.