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#1 |
Junior Member
Join Date: November 2, 2024
Posts: 5
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Uberti 1851 London issue
Picked up a new uberti 1851 London. Beautiful gun but right out of the box, I could not cock the hammer at all. Long story short, the wedge had been hammered in to far and was binding the cylinder against the frame. With the wedge inserted just enough to expose the spring clip the action works as it should and the cylinder spins free at halfcock but the cylinder has some resistance, but still turns freely.
Is this a normal wear in situation? The more I shoot it, the looser the cylinder will spin?' |
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#2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: January 7, 2017
Location: Colorado
Posts: 282
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The arbor isn’t bottoming out in the barrel assembly so the wedge pulls it back too far. Goggle “ shot arbor” for the fix. Common problem with Uberti.
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#3 |
Junior Member
Join Date: November 2, 2024
Posts: 5
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With the wedge tapped lightly in place I have .003 lateral play, at that point, the cylinder shows some resistance. My other pistols spin freely.This one has some slight drag.
The slot in the arbor sticks out about 1/32" in relationship to the barrel. So if I drive home the wedge, then yes, I would agree.The arbor is too short and binding the barrel to the cylinder. But with .003 play, why does the cylinder drag somewhat? |
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#4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: January 7, 2017
Location: Colorado
Posts: 282
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The machining of the face of the cylinder may be less the flat and smooth. .003” is desirable gap for a cap and ball revolver .002” is better but if the face of the cylinder is not even that can’t be maintained. But before anything else is done fix the arbor fit so you have a repeatable starting point.
Last edited by Oliver Sudden; November 16, 2024 at 12:58 PM. |
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#5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: September 8, 2007
Location: Mississippi
Posts: 16,376
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On a gun with a proper length arbor it's impossible to drive the wedge in too far.
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#6 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 22, 2007
Location: Arizona
Posts: 5,478
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I know a guy who fixes black powder revolvers as a hobby who has fixed two of mine. The short arbor issue is WELL known. He lives in Benson, AZ, if you want the contact info.
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#7 |
Junior Member
Join Date: November 2, 2024
Posts: 5
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It was the hand applying too much pressure. I honed it down and now all's good.
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#8 |
Senior Member
Join Date: September 8, 2007
Location: Mississippi
Posts: 16,376
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The arbor is still short.
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#9 |
Junior Member
Join Date: November 2, 2024
Posts: 5
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Hawg, is there a reason that making the arbor. 070 longer instead of filling in the hole by .070 beneficial?
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#10 |
Senior Member
Join Date: February 25, 2013
Posts: 590
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The arbors are correct, it is the hole that is not correct, and not even flat in the bottom.
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#11 |
Senior Member
Join Date: October 25, 2001
Location: Alabama
Posts: 19,156
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There are a couple of guys who post on THR that do arbor and other c&b improvements.
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#12 |
Senior Member
Join Date: September 8, 2007
Location: Mississippi
Posts: 16,376
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#13 |
Junior Member
Join Date: November 2, 2024
Posts: 5
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There sure has been a lot of information written on this short arbor issue. Lots of opinions and lots of ways to address the issue. From what i have read and learned while researching this issue, I am in the camp of the arbor is not the issue.The hole is the issue.
I am interested in the method people use to determine the gap between the hole and the arbor. Mine was to drop some washers in the hole and reinstall the barrel. I then checked the gap between the barrel and the cylinder adding or subtracting washers until I had some manageable amount of clearance. Then sanded/honed the washers to achieve. 002-.003 clearance |
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#14 |
Senior Member
Join Date: June 14, 2013
Posts: 657
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A single spacer is better than a "shim stack" plus, "mounting" it in the arbor hole will keep it in place and you won't be looking for it because you forgot it was in there.
Mike |
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