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#1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: January 10, 2011
Location: Leesville SC
Posts: 2,704
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Took a shot in the dark
I went ahead and ordered the Pietta G&G clone from this most recent batch that Midway has. But the pic shows a rebated cylinder (like a 44 Navy has) and the stepped frame. But some customer pics show a NON rebated cylinder and a level frame. So hopefully Midway's pic is just wrong and I get the one that is more correct for the G&G. We will see when it gets here Friday. I've wanted one of these for a while and finally they came back in stock.
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#2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 20, 2007
Posts: 2,640
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Had to check it out on Midway. Nice looking gun.
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#3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: January 10, 2011
Location: Leesville SC
Posts: 2,704
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Well the revolver arrived and it is exactly what I hoped it would be. So the stock photo on Midway is just wrong. So, a couple table top observations. This one was full of some kind of grit. I don't know if they just didn't clean parts when fitting and the shavings got caught up in the lube they use, Whatever it is its not good for the action. Especially in a brass frame. Whatever preservative they put on the revolver tarnished the brass. Glad to see the brass was well on its way to having that patina, haha.. I cleaned it up with some oil and fine steel wool. The main spring was covered in RUST. I had to clean it up with fine Emory cloth. All in all, I'm happy with it. She has good bones and I can sort her out. The timing is spot on, it locks up tight, and the arbor length is perfect. The Plastic grips are terrible, they don't fit the frame very well. Pietta just needs to stop it with them things, AWFUL!
The revolver is a shooter. After banging the 8" gong at various distances with boring regularity, I had to get it on paper. It printed a 2" group @ 15yards off hand. The load was 18grns 3F Grafs, .375 ball, lube over ball, #10 Rem cap. The manual says 16grns should be used, but I see no damage to the recoil shield using 18. It doesn't shoot as high as other open tops I have, but that may be due to the reduced load. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
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"I prefer dangerous freedom over peaceful slavery." - Thomas Jefferson |
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#4 |
Staff
Join Date: November 2, 1998
Location: Colorado
Posts: 22,287
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Plastic grips just gives you an opportunity to carve your own. Have fun.
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#5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: January 10, 2011
Location: Leesville SC
Posts: 2,704
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Yes Sir, The Plastic grips have the middle piece so I'm gonna use that to make a wood center piece then glue two blocks to that and whittle them down on the frame. I've never done it before, but it should be fun trying.
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"I prefer dangerous freedom over peaceful slavery." - Thomas Jefferson |
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#6 |
Staff
Join Date: November 2, 1998
Location: Colorado
Posts: 22,287
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Pencil a line to draw the outline of the frame. You can work on the wood on a vise. Then when it gets close:
1) Packaging tape on the frame and then 2) Painter's tape on the frame. When you file or carve, if you touch the painter's tape, the packaging tape still protects the frame. Replace the painter's tape and keep going. Have fun. You might also want to do a photo essay and post your progress here (or in the Smithy Forum).
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Vigilantibus et non dormientibus jura subveniunt. Molon Labe! |
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#7 |
Senior Member
Join Date: January 10, 2011
Location: Leesville SC
Posts: 2,704
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I found a couple grip blanks on Dixie's website, heck for 22 bucks for both of them, I couldn't resist. I picked the one with the best looking grain and went with it. I like the way the rough cut grip felt in the hand. So I just kept the machine contours. Sanded to 500, Minwax Antique oil finish, and Renaissance wax. Looks much better.
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"I prefer dangerous freedom over peaceful slavery." - Thomas Jefferson |
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#8 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 15, 2017
Location: Iowa
Posts: 1,270
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Having bought probably 20+ Italian replica cap and ball revolvers, the first thing I always do is completely disassemble them and clean and lubricate. When they were covered with the sticky green stuff (some think it’s olive oil) I would have to boil the parts in water and Dawn soap to get it all off. Italian barrels are always rusty, a lot of Ballistol soaked patches before you get one that isn’t rust colored. Some of them look like they were assembled under water. Nice looking pistol by the way.
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#9 |
Senior Member
Join Date: September 8, 2007
Location: Mississippi
Posts: 16,376
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It's not olive oil. It's a rust preventative.
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#10 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 15, 2017
Location: Iowa
Posts: 1,270
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Well it’s a damn poor rust preventative. When wiping it off the gun the cloth has rust colored smudges on it. Whatever they use now is better. I’ve had two new Cimarron’s and one Pietta this year (all cartridge guns) and the exterior lube wiped off easily and was just dirty looking, but still got rust in the bores. I didn’t disassemble any of them so don’t know what they were like inside. The Cimarron’s were smooth as buttered glass, so I didn’t mess with them. The Pietta, sold under another brand name, is currently back at the importer/ distributor, long story that I’m waiting for the conclusion of before I tell it.
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#11 |
Staff
Join Date: November 2, 1998
Location: Colorado
Posts: 22,287
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I dunno what the sticky green stuff is but it may be another sale by the lowest bidder.
Oil by its nature when it dries becomes tacky.
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Vigilantibus et non dormientibus jura subveniunt. Molon Labe! |
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