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#1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: March 2, 2014
Posts: 12,898
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Question for the smithies
I bought a weatherby vanguard first light in 300 weatherby magnum when it came out (it's basically a howa 1500) and have never been satisfied with the way it shot. I've shot a lot of weatherbys in that caliber so I'm no stranger to it. I love weatherbys--among my favorite rifles. But this one is one I think is really a dud. It has a 26" fluted barrel in their #2 sporter profile. Long story short, I've never seen a powerful magnum .308 barrel tapered down that much; I'm under the impression I'm shooting a wet noodle that whips too much.
So I decided to yank the barrel and put a new one on. I never succeeded in getting it off, I actually got to the point where clamps started to deform without the barrel budging. I've been told on many times it's a piece of cake--when I called legacy intl. they told me that's not true. Sooo--here comes the actual question. The first light (and many vanguards) AFAIK are often assembled with cerakoted parts. My understanding is Cerakote is a relatively thick coating compared to other processes of finishing. Being a ceramic type coating--I believe it is more or less impervious to removal solvents. If cerakote is used on the barrel shank and receiver threads--can it form a ceramic bond that approaches the strength of steel itself?
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"Everyone speaks gun."--Robert O'Neill I am NOT an expert--I do not have any formal experience or certification in firearms use or testing; use any information I post at your own risk! |
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#2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: April 7, 2006
Posts: 11,101
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I know nothing about Weatherby rifles, but any of the paint finishes should be applied after the gun is assembled, and threads should not be painted on individual parts that may be painted.
You may need heat to break the barrel loose. It may be Loctited. |
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#3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: June 23, 2013
Location: Central Taxylvania..
Posts: 3,611
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You may want to check the seam where the barrel & action meet.
On another forum someone was attempting a barrel swap on their Vanguard & found a small spot weld. Supposedly it was a factory barrel they were attempting to remove.
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#4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: June 25, 2008
Posts: 2,678
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Sometime Howa barrels can be extremely difficult to remove. I've seen videos of smiths chucking the barreled action into a lathe to relieve the barrel shoulder in order to get the old barrel off. Google "Howa barrel removal".
I suspect that you have one of the difficult ones and while the Cerakote may be contributing it's not likely to be the main issue.
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#5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: March 2, 2014
Posts: 12,898
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I've had my action wrench up to several hundred ft lbs and the steel on the wrench started to deform while the barrel wouldn't budge. I've been told by a smith that works on Howas that Howa possibly uses something along the lines of a "counter thread lock" to lock the barrel to the receiver. I may not have fully understood what he meant; I took it to mean that there is a counter thread twist to lock the barrel to the action for proper headspace setting. He also told me that occasionally they can be "hopeless" to remove without destroying the barrel and he uses a multi-ton shear to do that. I've already pretty much destroyed the barrel.
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#6 |
Senior Member
Join Date: February 13, 2006
Location: Washington state
Posts: 15,249
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I've removed dozens of Howa barrels, they are all LocTited in place. Put the heat to it and it will come loose. But yes, they are really on there.
As far as CeraKote going on thicker, that is not my experience. It only adds about a thousandth dimensionally to OD of a barrel, so it's about a half thousandth thick when done right. DuraCoat is the one I have seen that is thick on the parts. But CeraKote is slick and does not help us poor old smiths get a grip on it.
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#7 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: March 2, 2014
Posts: 12,898
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Quote:
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"Everyone speaks gun."--Robert O'Neill I am NOT an expert--I do not have any formal experience or certification in firearms use or testing; use any information I post at your own risk! |
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#8 |
Staff
Join Date: November 2, 1998
Location: Colorado
Posts: 22,289
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I'll ask a former Williams Gunsite smith.
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#9 |
Senior Member
Join Date: July 1, 2001
Posts: 6,807
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I think the way they get these is cutting parallel and near the shoulder.
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#10 |
Staff
Join Date: November 2, 1998
Location: Colorado
Posts: 22,289
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More experienced gunsmith advised me that they're super hard to remove. If the barrel isn't going to be reused, he said use a cut-off tool near the receiver. Yes, that's messed up.
I hope what Scorch suggested (heat to soften the loc-tite) works.
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#11 |
Senior Member
Join Date: October 25, 2001
Location: Alabama
Posts: 19,157
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Trivia Alert
There was a shop in Atlanta that made a few one-piece rifles, sort of like the old Savage Sporter Model 23 but in full power calibers. They said that if you managed to shoot out the barrel, they would cut it off, thread the receiver section, and screw in a regular barrel. |
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#12 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: March 2, 2014
Posts: 12,898
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Quote:
__________________
"Everyone speaks gun."--Robert O'Neill I am NOT an expert--I do not have any formal experience or certification in firearms use or testing; use any information I post at your own risk! |
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#13 |
Staff
Join Date: November 2, 1998
Location: Colorado
Posts: 22,289
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Stagpanther - he said cut it if the BBL isn't needed.
I got another heat it from another 'smith.
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#14 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: March 2, 2014
Posts: 12,898
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Quote:
__________________
"Everyone speaks gun."--Robert O'Neill I am NOT an expert--I do not have any formal experience or certification in firearms use or testing; use any information I post at your own risk! |
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#15 |
Staff
Join Date: November 2, 1998
Location: Colorado
Posts: 22,289
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You don't want to reach critical. Just enough to loosen the loctite.
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