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#1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 31, 2013
Location: East Texas
Posts: 1,705
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Rusting in safe..
I think I need some advice on one of my safes. I have four safes full of guns, and only one of them seems to give me problems. I think it must be related to one time when I was browning a muzzleloader..which I have done numerous times over the years. After the browning, I used baking soda and water to stop the process and afterward stored the rifle in this safe. Normally I have all my other muzzleloaders in another safe.
I keep the blued firearms in my safes well covered with RIG grease normally, and they are still getting rust in this one safe. I sort of think maybe it is acting as a browning cabinet maybe as a result of the browning that was placed there once. I don't think dessicant or a golden rod would be a solution for me as the garage where this is kept is quite warm already and I have no problems in my other safes in the same area. The safe is lined with the normal thin carpet type of material and I'm thinking maybe this needs to addressed at this point. I was contemplating using a mixture of baking soda and water to saturate the inside of the safe to see if it could neutralize the browning problem? Your thoughts on this problem would be greatly appreciated. Anyone else out there ever face something like this? |
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#2 |
Junior member
Join Date: February 2, 2010
Posts: 6,846
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You need airflow
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#3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: January 10, 2012
Posts: 3,881
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maybe air flow and a golden rod
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#4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 31, 2013
Location: East Texas
Posts: 1,705
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I don't really understand what airflow would do to help the problem. I have three other safes sitting beside this one problem safe and have no problems with them. Through the summer here, sometimes it's probably 100 degrees in the garage and I don't know if raising the temp with a golden rod would help either. I'm thinking of a way to neutralize the browning chemicals maybe that have permeated the area within the safe?
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#5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: October 20, 2006
Posts: 764
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change the carpet out for new
just a thought ocharry
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The felon does not fear the police, and he fears neither judge nor jury. Therefore what he must be taught to fear is his victim." - Lt. Col. Jeff Cooper, USMC |
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#6 |
Senior Member
Join Date: June 14, 2018
Posts: 619
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Many safes are lined with sheet rock to get their fire rating. It's not a horrible task to remove it and replace it. I'm afraid that soaking the carpet will just add to the problem.
I just upgraded a couple of my safes by replacing the sheet rock with 1/2" Hardie Cement backer board. You might consider that instead. |
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#7 |
Senior Member
Join Date: April 10, 2008
Location: Alaska
Posts: 7,330
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On board with the rip the interior out.
You can get desiccant from Grainger in bulk, low cost, might help or stop as well. Turns from light blue to pink if its been used up.
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Science and Facts are True whether you believe it or not |
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#8 |
Senior Member
Join Date: March 9, 2001
Location: Greenwood, SC
Posts: 880
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It is not the temperature that keeps the guns from rusting. A goldenrod (or similar) device simply keeps the temperature inside the safe higher than the ambient temperature outside the safe. That keeps condensate from forming. You can rust the dickens out of a gun at 100 degrees if the humidity is high and you let moisture condense on the guns.
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NRA Endowment Member, NRA Certified Instructor CWP Holder US Army veteran Gunsmith www.boltandbarrel.com |
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#9 |
Senior Member
Join Date: November 20, 2007
Location: South Western OK
Posts: 3,122
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Some newer safes are lined with corrosive made in China sheetrock that caused numerous problems when used in homes.
https://www.nolo.com/legal-encyclope...cts-32402.html |
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#10 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 31, 2013
Location: East Texas
Posts: 1,705
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I actually don't think moisture is my problem with this safe, as much as some chemicals left from the browning process on the one rifle that was stored there. I do not get rough spots of rust, just discoloration in spots. I am going to try some of the baking soda remedies and such, but I think I may have to eventually end up ripping out all the interior and starting over.
I have four safes full of guns in the same location and all are subject to the same conditions. One of them having the problems tells me that adding heat or airflow, etc.. is probably not going to help the situation. I think if I can neutralize the chemical problem in the safe, I think it might be my solution. |
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#11 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 31, 2013
Location: East Texas
Posts: 1,705
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thallub….you might have just highlighted part of my problem. I have noted that rifles in the safe that have ammo in cartridge carriers attached to them show definite problems. The ammo ends up with a frosted looking appearance with any shiny brass taking on a dull appearance. The article you referenced makes note of wiring and such being effected by the Chinese drywall.
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#12 |
Senior Member
Join Date: April 10, 2008
Location: Alaska
Posts: 7,330
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When did the safe get bought in sequence with the other ones?
Same mfg or?
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Science and Facts are True whether you believe it or not |
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#13 |
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Join Date: May 31, 2013
Location: East Texas
Posts: 1,705
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It was the second safe of the four I own. It is a Winchester brand that says "made in Ft. Worth" on it. It is 745 lbs and has a capacity of 45 long guns. It is the only Winchester safe that I own....and I don't see me buying another. I think I'll just start ripping out the sheet rock and build my own interior in the safe. It will be a job, but if it solves my problem I think it will be worth it. I have a golden rod in it now, but I don't think it actually does any good for me. I removed all the guns and have been cleaning them off and on for a couple days now. Hopefully tomorrow I'll have enough time to finish cleaning and coating all the guns....then start tearing the safe apart.
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#14 |
Senior Member
Join Date: October 20, 2006
Posts: 764
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One of my safes is a Winchester brand....I have had it for a few yeas now...its purpose is holding the guns I use all the time...only keep about 6-8 in it at any one time...but I have never had a problem with it
I dont think the brand has anything to do with your problem....I think and its just speculation on my part...but I think something has gotten into the carpet or the fire proofing or both from your rusting chemicals and they are giving off something in the closed up environment inside the box..causing the rust.... Yeah I would gut the box and wash it down good with baking soda and let it air out good...making sure it is dry before replacing the interior..... Maybe close it up after its dry with some kind of metal inside for a few day and see what if anything happens Just some thoughts Ocharry
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The felon does not fear the police, and he fears neither judge nor jury. Therefore what he must be taught to fear is his victim." - Lt. Col. Jeff Cooper, USMC |
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#15 |
Senior Member
Join Date: April 7, 2006
Posts: 11,101
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Guys- baking soda is a SALT!
Salts cause rust. If you need a base to neutralize an acid (you don't, BTW) use ammonia. |
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#16 |
Senior Member
Join Date: October 20, 2006
Posts: 764
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Thx Bill...that is good info...I had no idea baking soda was a salt base
See there..old dogs can learn something new Scratch the BS...lol...baking soda thinking then Ocharry
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The felon does not fear the police, and he fears neither judge nor jury. Therefore what he must be taught to fear is his victim." - Lt. Col. Jeff Cooper, USMC |
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#17 |
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Join Date: November 30, 2012
Location: Baton Rouge, Louisiana
Posts: 1,914
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It is either browning chemicals absorbed by the carpet wall finish.....but it sounds more like Chinese drywall.
That stuff is devistating to metal . Takes about one year to show up in a house and the only fix is remove the drywall , remove all electrical wiring , outlets , light fixtures and HVAC units, A costly neutralizer must be sprayed on the wood framing , the wood absorbs the chemicals and causes more problems later . Let it dry and then rebuild the house....again. This hit us hard after Katrina and there is no way to coat or treat the drywall....Remove it ASAP . Gary |
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#18 | |
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Join Date: July 15, 2016
Location: Florida
Posts: 182
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Quote:
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#19 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 31, 2013
Location: East Texas
Posts: 1,705
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![]() I started to tear out the drywall from the safe...starting with the door, which had two layers. This rust was in between the two layers. I contacted Winchester safes about the problem and sent them pic's. They are supposed to get back to me tomorrow. I have had the safe about 3 years with intermittent problems with this rust...and the safe has a 5 yr. warranty. We'll see what happens ?? |
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#20 |
Senior Member
Join Date: October 20, 2006
Posts: 764
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Wow...did it get wet sometime in its life....like maybe before you got it???
Ocharry
__________________
The felon does not fear the police, and he fears neither judge nor jury. Therefore what he must be taught to fear is his victim." - Lt. Col. Jeff Cooper, USMC |
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#21 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 31, 2013
Location: East Texas
Posts: 1,705
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I don't see any way moisture could have gotten into the door area. The part of the door where the lock is located is covered with sheetrock and the interior of the door is covered with a piece of sheetrock...covered with a fuzzy type of material. The safe is stored in a very dry environment with a golden rod in it, so I'm thinking the rust is something that is being caused by the sheetrock..which is basically enclosing it.
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#22 |
Senior Member
Join Date: September 19, 2015
Location: coastal NC
Posts: 646
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Buy a humidity gauge from amazon (you can get them for a few dollars.)
Compare the humidity in your safes to see if there is something different about the other one temp/humidity wise. That would be a start to figuring out why this one is having issues. I would start there |
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#23 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 31, 2013
Location: East Texas
Posts: 1,705
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I have four safes sitting side by side with no differences in temp or humidity from their environment. I have come to think the problem is coming from within the problem safe. Just having rust inside a door that is sealed up on both sides with sheetrock and only normally exposed to outside air when the door is opened leads me to believe the problem lies within the safe. Outside humidity cannot get into the safe when it's in the normal condition with the door shut.
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#24 |
Senior Member
Join Date: October 20, 2006
Posts: 764
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i for one will be interested to hear what winchester has to say
did the door show any signs of rust before you took the sheet rock off,,,was the paint pealing?? or bubbling up?? i dont see any signs or have any problems with my winchester safe..ive had it for about 4 years i think,,maybe a little longer...but i may need to give it a good once over,,,,,just for good measure,,,never seen anything rust wise on any of the guns i keep in it my i ask how long you would keep the safe closed up??....was it opened daily or weekly or monthly??? ocharry
__________________
The felon does not fear the police, and he fears neither judge nor jury. Therefore what he must be taught to fear is his victim." - Lt. Col. Jeff Cooper, USMC |
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#25 |
Senior Member
Join Date: February 13, 2002
Location: Canada
Posts: 12,453
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If it's just the one, look at where it sits. There's moisture getting inside from somewhere. Might be a wet carpet. That'd be cheap fix to change. Lots of places throw out old carpets or pieces of old carpets. If you know an office building maintenance guy, you can get some from him.
Dry wall is gypsum and paper. Both turn to soft mush when wet. And they retain moisture. Neither Golden Rods nor 25 watt light bulbs will warm the space through dry wall either. "...door that is sealed up..." Any wee air space between the steel and dry wall? That'd be enough for condensation to happen if the door is not air tight. |
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