1st chronograph

[308Loader]

Hello again everyone, I’ve been loading for a couple of years now and finally picked up my first chronograph. It is a Caldwell precision chrono. I’ve seen them around for a while, so I assume their somewhat decent. Had my eye on a magneto speed, but I can’t attach that to my pistols.

Is there anything you all have experienced with these that I should be aware of?

Looks like a standard camera tripod should work?

I’m excited to see some of the data from my handloads. Book values V/S my rifles and pistols actual velocity’s. As always thanks for your input

[rottdogsparky]

I had issues with mine being used inside, but purchased the light kit and turned out the fluorescent lights and it has worked better. I get errors on occasion but clean the glass on the Chronograph and back to good read outs!

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

[Nick_C_S]

Is there anything . . . that I should be aware of?

Yeah. Try not to shoot it . I'm on my third chronograph.

To be a bit more serious, a chronograph is a great tool. And if I may dispense a bit of unsolicited advice, try not to spend too much time comparing your loads' velocities to published data. There will be some variance.

It is best to "compete against yourself," so to speak. Standard Deviation is where to look for your best ammo.

[blackwidowp61]

I took mine out with the muzzle blast of a 300 Win Mag

[RC20]

I knicked mine, at the time not fatal. It was dead a couple months back, sigh.

So, you really can shoot one even if you are careful (and I was, former motorcycle rider who knew about cycle lay downs, those who have and those who will, only 3 though!X) .

[74A95]

Just an FYI, velocity standard deviation is not correlated with accuracy in the typical handgun at typical handgun distances.

The best measure of accuracy is the target, not the chronograph.

[insco3]

My first and current chrono is also a Caldwell precision. No issues with it and love the app for my phone. Very organized way to capture data.
I record data for my .308, .223, and .243 rifles.


I have nothing to compare it to, as it is my first chrony.

I have been reloading for over a year. As I get deeper and deeper into this hobby I am realizing the attention to detail can be daunting. I too am curious about the magneto speed chrony and what level of accuracy it displays vs the Caldwell precision.


This forum has always been a wealth of knowledge. I look forward to the responses.

FYi. Yes the Caldwell can be set up on a regular camera tripod.
My Caldwell precision came with the tripod.

The magneto speed is a different technology that requires attachment to the rifle/guns barrel to operate correctly. Not sure if there is a solution to your issue not being able to affix to your pistols barrel. A semi auto pistol action is always moving.......

Is there a reason you need velocity measurement beyond what your caldwell precision can provide?

I would think the caldwell would give you accurate enough measurements for pistol rounds.



Insco3

[hdwhit]

308 Loader wrote:
...Caldwell precision chrono.

Congratulations. I have heard good things about Caldwell - in fact all the optical chronographs seem to satisfy their owners.

Is there anything you all have experienced with these that I should be aware of?

All light-sensing chronographs work by counting the time between the bullet passes over one sensor and when it passes over the second sensor. Since the distance is fixed, it is a simple matter to compute velocity. I am not aware of any light-sensing chronograph that has a provision for manual calibration, so your velocity readings are dependent on the accuracy of the timer chip inside the unit.

The timer chips are not 100% accurate and will drift with changes in temperature as well as voltage fluctuations, so use fresh batteries on each trip to the range. The good news is that although the chip may be "wrong", it will be consistently wrong, so you can reliably compare readings between shots on any particular trip to the range.

If you do shoot your skyscreens, I have found that you can make workable replacements using a plastic milk carton and bamboo shish-k-bob sticks. Just file this away, you probably won't need it for a few years.

Looks like a standard camera tripod should work?

Yes. That's what I use when I don't bolt it down to a wooden sawhorse with a block of wood in front of it to help prevent "lead poisoning".

I’m excited to see some of the data from my handloads. Book values V/S my rifles and pistols actual velocity’s.

Don't expect to realize book values. First, most book loads are tested on longer barrels than are typically encountered in the field, so the book velocities tend to be a little bit higher. Second, your timer chip may be off by a few percent.

What is important is that your velocity numbers are consistent with each other and that they are within the ballpark of the book. If the book says 900 fps and you're getting 830-850 fps, then you are getting consistent numbers that are within about 7% of book value. You can attribute the difference to the inherent inaccuracy of the timer chip.

[OzeanJaeger]

I’ve blown up three over a 30 year span. Blew up a prochrono, and 2 chronys. I have the same one, and it’s as accurate as almost any other, and that it interfaces with a phone is huge.

I would get the labradar if it was any more accurate, but it isn’t. They’re all about 2%. The magnetospeed interests me because no tripod and nothing down range, but again, it’s not any more accurate...

[Road_Clam]

I've been using the Alpha Chrony for many years. Served me very well. The Chrony's can be very fickle as to accurate reads in varying light conditions. I learned that my best opportunities for consistent reads will be in bright overcast conditions. Bright sun (NO passing clouds) is also a good condition. Chrony's also do not like low angled sun (early mornings or late afternoons). Never shot my unit but grazed MANY sunshield support rods. The key is taking accurate measurements and placing the sensors perfectly aligned with your bullet path. The only time I brain fart and shoot the support rods is when I forget and engage multiple targets and forget to adjust the unit position. I also shot the rods shooting handgun off hand. I learned with handgun to rest my wrist on a tripod to maintain perfect alignment.

[mrdaputer]

I have had mine for over a year. I ended up buying Competition Electronics Digital Link Bluetooth Adapter for ProChrono Digital Chronograph. I love that as well.

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/24...al-chronograph

[David R]

If you shoot a chrony, they will replace it at a reduced cost. Ask me how I know......

Don't let anyone else use it.

David

[ligonierbill]

If you want to "calibrate" it, get a box of 22 match ammo and run that over it. When I switched optical chronos some years ago, I found my new one was consistently 80 fps slower than the old one. Not a big deal, but you might end up adjusting your absolute velocity readings on that basis. Doesn't affect standard deviation or relative "load X is 100 fps faster than load Y" readings, of course. Don't feel bad when you shoot it.

[OzeanJaeger]

I've only shot one. The others were muzzle blasts.

At my local public ranges (run by the MDC) they make you put the unit WAY too close! Unless you run a brake or a can they make you put it so close the muzzle blast jostles the unit at the very least. I try to keep cheating it out every time there is a cease fire to replace targets, but once in a while I get a Tommy Tattle Tale RO who catches me and makes me put it right back at the barrel. This is incorrect, period.

I don't argue with them, but it's MY chronograph! Ban them if you're so worried about it, but I'd rather risk some idiot in the next lane shooting it (this is what they say their concern is) than to have it less than 5' from my barrel and it getting rocked every shot.

My club is way to far to drive for load development and sighting in, so I appreciate a tightly run, safe, public range within a 20 minute drive, but in this respect they don't know what they're doing.

This is why in my situation the magnetospeed or the labradar makes more sense. Or at least that's what I've been telling myself as I try to resist dropping a bunch of money on a piece of equipment that I don't categorically "need"...

[Road_Clam]

Originally Posted by OzeanJaeger

I've only shot one. The others were muzzle blasts.

At my local public ranges (run by the MDC) they make you put the unit WAY too close! Unless you run a brake or a can they make you put it so close the muzzle blast jostles the unit at the very least. I try to keep cheating it out every time there is a cease fire to replace targets, but once in a while I get a Tommy Tattle Tale RO who catches me and makes me put it right back at the barrel. This is incorrect, period.

I don't argue with them, but it's MY chronograph! Ban them if you're so worried about it, but I'd rather risk some idiot in the next lane shooting it (this is what they say their concern is) than to have it less than 5' from my barrel and it getting rocked every shot.

My club is way to far to drive for load development and sighting in, so I appreciate a tightly run, safe, public range within a 20 minute drive, but in this respect they don't know what they're doing.

This is why in my situation the magnetospeed or the labradar makes more sense. Or at least that's what I've been telling myself as I try to resist dropping a bunch of money on a piece of equipment that I don't categorically "need"...

So am I correct in understanding your clubs RSO's require your unit to be placed no further that 5' from the muzzle ? That's a waste of time, how do you even get consistent readings ? 10' is about ideal and this is what I always measure to. I also don't understand how any shooter on either side of you could possibly shoot your unit ? At my club the shooting benches are spaced about 10' apart,

[Tsquared]

If you get a lot of error's or large swings in velocity that can be caused by being to close to the Caldwell.

BTW: Do not load it to a brother-in-law. He will shoot it.

[RC20]

Yea I hinted to my brother I would like to borrow his since mine is hors de combat, dead silence!

[308Loader]

wow, lots of great responses, thanks guys.

first read takeaway:

Set up at 10' from muzzle to avoid muzzle blast.

Use on bright overcast day, makes sense due to what I would assume to be an infrared sensor.

Unit is some what reliable - good news!

Don't shoot it! This one has me a little worried. Reading through the post and others I've read on the topic cause of death is overwhelmingly reported to be lead poisoning (shooting it). I saw one response about putting a wood block in front of it seems smart, not convenient, but smart. I would assume a 6x6 block of hardwood lengthwise? some of what I have read on this type of chronograph suggests that the sensor will only read in a narrow band just above the sensor, not the whole width and height of the sunshade? any advise on safe setup? I would assume with a bolt gun I could look down the bore and guestimate the proper alignment. With a auto loading rifle would I zero at a close range? say 25-50yrds to keep the bullet path aligned? With a pistol shoot at a bench with a rest and cut out the coffee for the day to avoid a pushing flinch?

Again, thanks for the input.

[JeepHammer]

First crono... Buy cheap!

"You'll shoot your crono out kid!", Just like with the Red Rider 200 shot BB gun.

Take it from a guy that shoots through a crono almost every range day, eventually, it WILL take a bullet.
I've only had one in the last 40 years that died of natural causes...
My wife shot one, my range partner in crime shot two, I ran over one (don't ask...), a guy on the bench next to me shot my crono... The list goes on...

[308Loader]

One last thought on the topic. Here in Minnesota it will be +/- zero F. for the next few weeks - months depending. Are these type of units acceptable for use in frigid temperatures?

[Road_Clam]

308Loader, 0 degrees is COLD !! While I think in theory a light sensing Chrony will still function, i'm thinking those brutally cold temps will cause weaker voltage from the 9v battery and possibly cause inconsistences. I guess all you can do is try and see what happens. Here's a trick I learned to ensure good bullet path alignment when setting up your Chrony. I first look through my scope and get a good fixed target picture, then I use my optic bore sight laser inserted in my barrel. I then take a sheet of 8x11 printer paper and place it vertically behind the rear sensors vertically and verify the red dot from the bore laser is exactly in the middle of the sensor path. A few extra steps, but if you do this you will never damage your Chrony from a stray shot. I also added a bungee "S" hook underneath my Chrony tripod and if i'm in windy conditions I hang a 8# block of lead to add stability. If you rush to set up your Chrony, you WILL shoot it. I learned years ago, be patient, measure carefully and you will be good to go. Chrono data is excellent info especially for long distance doping of your precision loads. I have over 700 documented velocities test sessions and my FPS data trends have taught me a lot. Lastly, don't get all wound up if you experience high ES's. I have learned that wide ES's have no consistient correlation to poor accuracy. For example, I for some reason see ES's over 50 when loading 4064, yet I commonly observe single moa accuracy even with the high ES. Contrary to this claim I also observe ES's under 15 and have horrible 3+ moa accuracy.

[David R]

Scoped rifle shoots 1.5 to 2" lower than the scope. That is an easy way to shoot your crony. I shot my truck that way too.

David

[JeepHammer]

I feel your pain David.

I watched a police 'Sniper' put three rounds into a brick wall on a training ground, wall about 15 feet in front of him... Couldn't figure out why he wasn't hitting g the target.

Another guy shot the far side of a pickup truck bed, 4' away, TWICE before he figured out what was happening...

I've not shot the crony directly, but I've taken the uprights off a couple of times, seems when you reload and bring the pistol back up the uprights move when you aren't looking!

[std7mag]

2 words of advice..
1) fresh batteries!! Weak ones will give you errors.
2) distance.. Found with my 7mm-08 that 10 feet too close. Had to move to 15 feet.

[Nick_C_S]

fresh batteries!! Weak ones will give you errors.

This is how/why I shot my first chronograph. I didn't experience the reading errors part (per se'); but what I did experience that I needed to keep shooting lower and lower - closer and closer to the pick-ups in order to get a reading (shooting 38 target loads at the time). I knew I was getting close, but continued chronographing - until I got one a little too close.

Scoped rifle shoots 1.5 to 2" lower than the scope. That is an easy way to shoot your crony.

It's called "parallax effect." And this is how/why I shot my second chronograph (with a scoped AR15). I was aware of parallax effect; and knew my target downrange was awfully low relative to the chrono, but decided to chance it anyway. First shot: Through and through. It was a beautiful shot. Expensive; but beautiful.

From a root cause standpoint, it wasn't low batteries and parallax effect that caused me to shoot my chronographs. The root cause was laziness. I was too lazy to wait 'till the next cease-fire period to go out and put a new battery in the chrono (I keep one on hand for just such an event); and move the target, respectively. But in both cases, I didn't feel like waiting. Laziness - $200 worth.