Brass getting stuck

hdtramp · December 23, 2017, 07:34 PM

I suddenly started having a problem with .223 brass being tight and jamming in my Lee resizing die. I probably loaded around three thousand rounds with only a couple jamming, now it's like every third one. Thought is was a certain brass because it is mixed, but it seems to be jamming on any. The brass is tumbled in walnut shells before and I run a brush through the brass prior to resizing and lube with Lee's resizing lube. I am fairly new to reloading so was wondering if anyone else ran into this problem or can steer me straight. Any help would be appreciated, thanks.

KenT7021 · December 23, 2017, 07:52 PM

Try STP oil treatment as a case lube.I assume your sizing die is clean?Is any of the brass military brass?Ammo run thru a M249 SAW might be harder to size.

**Unclenick** · December 23, 2017, 08:38 PM

The Lee lube works, but is not as slick as Hornady Unique or Imperial Sizing wax for finger application lube. STP is easier with a lube pad to roll it on. The dried Lee lube can be sprayed over top with any brand of spray lube if that appeals to you as a way to add slickness to it.

However, the sudden change is strange. I suggest you look at whether or not the decapping pin rod has slipped upward a little and you might be jamming case between the expander and neck area.

Another thing to try is to disassemble and clean the die. Use a copper solvent type bore cleaner that turns blue to see if brass is sticking to the die and look for scoring by dirt or sand particles. If its surface needs re-honing, ask Lee if they will inspect it and do that if necessary.

brasscollector · December 23, 2017, 09:11 PM

Quote:

I suggest you look at whether or not the decapping pin rod has slipped upward a little and you might be jamming case between the expander and neck area.

One that I've run into a couple times has been the expander/decapping pin working it's way down towards the case head. You think the brass is getting tight in the die but it's actually bottoming out the expander into the case head. Bent at least one expander/decapping rod that way which thankfully RCBS replaced.

hdwhit · December 24, 2017, 12:15 AM

Quote:

hdtramp wrote:
I probably loaded around three thousand rounds with only a couple jamming, now it's like every third one.

You went 3,000 rounds with no problems and now you are "jamming" regularly. What changed recently?

Have you inspected the die to make sure it is still in good shape?

Also, please explain what you mean by "jamming"; do you mean the case gets stuck in the die? If so, cases getting stuck in the sizer die are usually a symptom of inadequate case lubrication. How are you applying the Lee resizing lubricant?

GeorgeandSugar · December 24, 2017, 09:40 AM

I will add this to the conversation. I use the Lee dies and had a few stuck brass.

I use One Shot and toss cases in a small container. Spray and giggle. Make sure the inside of the bottleneck get some lube. I also when sizing bottleneck brass, give a shot of One Shot up in the sizing/decapping die. I clean the die periodically to remove build-up, dirt and grime. Have not had any stuck brass with this approach.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

JeepHammer · December 24, 2017, 09:42 AM

I read the OP as brushing the INSIDE of the case...
We have to assume the outside is lubed also...

With Lee lubricant, did you open a new bottle lately?
Maybe the lube isn't quite what it's supposed to be?
I ran into this once a long time ago, the lube was 'Thinner' than it should have been, cases stuck in the die.

I'm stretching here, but since Lee lube was mentioned, are you using Lee dies?
Unclenick might be onto something with the decapping/expander ball being screwed 'UP' too far.

The other thing I'm thinking is...
About time to take that die out and clean it, have a GOOD look inside.
Once brass gets bonded to the sides of the die, use copper killer bore solvent to get it out.
If the die is rusted, you MUST clean the rust/brass out and do your best to POLISH (not sand) the rust out.

Although guys try to keep using them, heavily rusted dies should be replaced...

m&p45acp10+1 · December 24, 2017, 03:12 PM

First thing is take out the pin, and clean the inside of the die very well. I use brake parts cleaner. (Note do this outside.) Spray it down very well. Bush the inside of the die, and repeat a couple of times. Then use a cleaning patch with a very light bit of oil on the inside of the die to coat the entire inside of the die. Then run a few dry patches in to remove all of the excess. Put the pin back in. Your die is now clean, and ready to use. Make sure you lube every single case. I have used RCBS, the Dillon spray lube branded as Cabela's (lanolin, and alcohol mixture). I have also used Mobil One motor oil it works well. It will soak up your media faster, so be ready to change out media more often if you use it.) I have also used mink oil. That is the one I am using at this time on bottle neck rounds as it is what I have here on hand. The spray stuff I keep for .30 Carbine, and .45/70 Gov't.

myg30 · December 24, 2017, 03:51 PM

I use a liquid lube and a Wet Q-tip to lube the inside of the case neck.
Depending on what you mean by running a brush inside the case might be adding dirt dust inside the cleaned case. When you tumble do you use any polish or mineral spirts to the walnut ? That helps lube the inside necks too. You can try wiping the sizer spindle shaft with a qtip and liquid lube instead of inside each case. You can size a few before you have to lube again.

Mike

RC20 · December 24, 2017, 07:17 PM

If you clean the die be sure it gets re lubed separately.

Don Fischer · December 24, 2017, 08:57 PM

Clean the die and get a bit of sizing lube in there. I used STP years ago but don't recommend it. It goes on the case and can be wiped off but easy to get just a bit to much and end up with collapsed shoulder's. I don't use the wax you put on with your finger's either. Probably works real well, to many guy's love them but, I've tried it and just am not comfortable that I got the case lubed. So for the past 30 + years I've been using only One Shot. I spray it on and I can see it go on. Now and then I spray a bit in the die before starting.

Years ago when I used STP. I put it on with an RCBS lube pad. Had to be careful not to get to much on the pad, kind of messy. I thik any lube you get made just for sizing case's is gonna work just as the manufacturer claims but be sure your using clean dies and if they have that little vent hole in the top, it's clear too.

hdtramp · December 25, 2017, 12:41 AM

The only thing that has changed is I tumble the brass in walnut shells instead of carbide chips. I use a brush in the brass after tumbling the media out of the brass. That must be it, but alot of people use walnut shells for tumbling with no problems. I inspected the die and cleaned it, everything looks good. I apply the lube with my finger as stated on the tube. As far as jamming, I'm refering to the case going in hard and coming out harder, to the point of breaking the rim off and sticking in the die. The decapping pin is getting alittle beat up, but is still straight and moves freely in the case after I tap it out of the die up to the point of the step, but won't go past it to free it. I had to replace the decapping pin once after trying to reload military brass (lesson learned). Thanks for the post.

hdtramp · December 25, 2017, 12:46 AM

Yes I am using Lee dies, and there is no rust and I cleaned it a couple times while having this problem.

bungiex88 · December 26, 2017, 02:25 AM

Go to drug store and buy a tin can of bag balm it’s in a green can. Not meant for reloading it’s dirt cheap and best case lube I ever found. Resized couple thousand cases with it and never had one get tight. And never had one dimple. Most of the cases I sized were lake city 308

std7mag · December 26, 2017, 07:32 AM

2 questions..

1) your not removing the primer before you clean your cases, are you?

2) i take it you used a rag or paper towel to clean the outside of the case after cleaning?

gwpercle · December 27, 2017, 06:25 PM

I use Lee lube for handguns but the truth is for bottle neck rifle cases you need a little more ( I hate to say better) but you need a better lube. Bag Balm has lanolin and works pretty good, better than Lee . but for the ultimate in lubes....STP on a ink pad is the best.

Tip : If the case starts to get hard going in the die ...STOP ! Remove it and relube it....
The harder they go in , the harder they will be to get out. STP will not fail, it is greasy but thats what you need on full length resizing on rifle rounds... better lube.

Sorry Lee , just being honest.
Gary

December 23, 2017, 07:34 PM	#1
hdtramp Junior Member Join Date: February 24, 2013 Posts: 6	Brass getting stuck I suddenly started having a problem with .223 brass being tight and jamming in my Lee resizing die. I probably loaded around three thousand rounds with only a couple jamming, now it's like every third one. Thought is was a certain brass because it is mixed, but it seems to be jamming on any. The brass is tumbled in walnut shells before and I run a brush through the brass prior to resizing and lube with Lee's resizing lube. I am fairly new to reloading so was wondering if anyone else ran into this problem or can steer me straight. Any help would be appreciated, thanks.

December 23, 2017, 08:38 PM	#3
Unclenick Staff Join Date: March 4, 2005 Location: Ohio Posts: 21,742	The Lee lube works, but is not as slick as Hornady Unique or Imperial Sizing wax for finger application lube. STP is easier with a lube pad to roll it on. The dried Lee lube can be sprayed over top with any brand of spray lube if that appeals to you as a way to add slickness to it. However, the sudden change is strange. I suggest you look at whether or not the decapping pin rod has slipped upward a little and you might be jamming case between the expander and neck area. Another thing to try is to disassemble and clean the die. Use a copper solvent type bore cleaner that turns blue to see if brass is sticking to the die and look for scoring by dirt or sand particles. If its surface needs re-honing, ask Lee if they will inspect it and do that if necessary. __________________ Gunsite Orange Hat Family Member CMP Certified GSM Master Instructor NRA Certified Rifle Instructor NRA Benefactor Member and Golden Eagle

December 24, 2017, 09:40 AM	#6
GeorgeandSugar Member Join Date: May 20, 2017 Posts: 67	Brass getting stuck I will add this to the conversation. I use the Lee dies and had a few stuck brass. I use One Shot and toss cases in a small container. Spray and giggle. Make sure the inside of the bottleneck get some lube. I also when sizing bottleneck brass, give a shot of One Shot up in the sizing/decapping die. I clean the die periodically to remove build-up, dirt and grime. Have not had any stuck brass with this approach. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Last edited by GeorgeandSugar; December 24, 2017 at 09:48 AM.

December 24, 2017, 03:12 PM	#8
m&p45acp10+1 Senior Member Join Date: May 3, 2009 Location: Central Texas Posts: 3,947	First thing is take out the pin, and clean the inside of the die very well. I use brake parts cleaner. (Note do this outside.) Spray it down very well. Bush the inside of the die, and repeat a couple of times. Then use a cleaning patch with a very light bit of oil on the inside of the die to coat the entire inside of the die. Then run a few dry patches in to remove all of the excess. Put the pin back in. Your die is now clean, and ready to use. Make sure you lube every single case. I have used RCBS, the Dillon spray lube branded as Cabela's (lanolin, and alcohol mixture). I have also used Mobil One motor oil it works well. It will soak up your media faster, so be ready to change out media more often if you use it.) I have also used mink oil. That is the one I am using at this time on bottle neck rounds as it is what I have here on hand. The spray stuff I keep for .30 Carbine, and .45/70 Gov't. __________________ No matter how many times you do it and nothing happens it only takes something going wrong one time to kill you.

December 24, 2017, 07:17 PM	#10
RC20 Senior Member Join Date: April 10, 2008 Location: Alaska Posts: 7,334	If you clean the die be sure it gets re lubed separately. __________________ Science and Facts are True whether you believe it or not

December 23, 2017, 07:52 PM	#2
KenT7021 Member Join Date: September 11, 2016 Posts: 29	Try STP oil treatment as a case lube.I assume your sizing die is clean?Is any of the brass military brass?Ammo run thru a M249 SAW might be harder to size.

December 24, 2017, 09:42 AM	#7
JeepHammer Junior member Join Date: February 27, 2015 Posts: 1,768	I read the OP as brushing the INSIDE of the case... We have to assume the outside is lubed also... With Lee lubricant, did you open a new bottle lately? Maybe the lube isn't quite what it's supposed to be? I ran into this once a long time ago, the lube was 'Thinner' than it should have been, cases stuck in the die. I'm stretching here, but since Lee lube was mentioned, are you using Lee dies? Unclenick might be onto something with the decapping/expander ball being screwed 'UP' too far. The other thing I'm thinking is... About time to take that die out and clean it, have a GOOD look inside. Once brass gets bonded to the sides of the die, use copper killer bore solvent to get it out. If the die is rusted, you MUST clean the rust/brass out and do your best to POLISH (not sand) the rust out. Although guys try to keep using them, heavily rusted dies should be replaced...

December 24, 2017, 03:51 PM	#9
myg30 Member Join Date: January 20, 2009 Location: Winchester, TN. Posts: 52	I use a liquid lube and a Wet Q-tip to lube the inside of the case neck. Depending on what you mean by running a brush inside the case might be adding dirt dust inside the cleaned case. When you tumble do you use any polish or mineral spirts to the walnut ? That helps lube the inside necks too. You can try wiping the sizer spindle shaft with a qtip and liquid lube instead of inside each case. You can size a few before you have to lube again. Mike

December 24, 2017, 08:57 PM	#11
Don Fischer Senior Member Join Date: March 2, 2017 Posts: 1,868	Clean the die and get a bit of sizing lube in there. I used STP years ago but don't recommend it. It goes on the case and can be wiped off but easy to get just a bit to much and end up with collapsed shoulder's. I don't use the wax you put on with your finger's either. Probably works real well, to many guy's love them but, I've tried it and just am not comfortable that I got the case lubed. So for the past 30 + years I've been using only One Shot. I spray it on and I can see it go on. Now and then I spray a bit in the die before starting. Years ago when I used STP. I put it on with an RCBS lube pad. Had to be careful not to get to much on the pad, kind of messy. I thik any lube you get made just for sizing case's is gonna work just as the manufacturer claims but be sure your using clean dies and if they have that little vent hole in the top, it's clear too.

December 25, 2017, 12:41 AM	#12
hdtramp Junior Member Join Date: February 24, 2013 Posts: 6	The only thing that has changed is I tumble the brass in walnut shells instead of carbide chips. I use a brush in the brass after tumbling the media out of the brass. That must be it, but alot of people use walnut shells for tumbling with no problems. I inspected the die and cleaned it, everything looks good. I apply the lube with my finger as stated on the tube. As far as jamming, I'm refering to the case going in hard and coming out harder, to the point of breaking the rim off and sticking in the die. The decapping pin is getting alittle beat up, but is still straight and moves freely in the case after I tap it out of the die up to the point of the step, but won't go past it to free it. I had to replace the decapping pin once after trying to reload military brass (lesson learned). Thanks for the post.

December 25, 2017, 12:46 AM	#13
hdtramp Junior Member Join Date: February 24, 2013 Posts: 6	Yes I am using Lee dies, and there is no rust and I cleaned it a couple times while having this problem.

December 26, 2017, 02:25 AM	#14
bungiex88 Senior Member Join Date: May 14, 2015 Location: central pa Posts: 264	Go to drug store and buy a tin can of bag balm it’s in a green can. Not meant for reloading it’s dirt cheap and best case lube I ever found. Resized couple thousand cases with it and never had one get tight. And never had one dimple. Most of the cases I sized were lake city 308

December 26, 2017, 07:32 AM	#15
std7mag Senior Member Join Date: June 23, 2013 Location: Central Taxylvania.. Posts: 3,611	2 questions.. 1) your not removing the primer before you clean your cases, are you? 2) i take it you used a rag or paper towel to clean the outside of the case after cleaning?

December 27, 2017, 06:25 PM	#16
gwpercle Senior Member Join Date: November 30, 2012 Location: Baton Rouge, Louisiana Posts: 1,915	I use Lee lube for handguns but the truth is for bottle neck rifle cases you need a little more ( I hate to say better) but you need a better lube. Bag Balm has lanolin and works pretty good, better than Lee . but for the ultimate in lubes....STP on a ink pad is the best. Tip : If the case starts to get hard going in the die ...STOP ! Remove it and relube it.... The harder they go in , the harder they will be to get out. STP will not fail, it is greasy but thats what you need on full length resizing on rifle rounds... better lube. Sorry Lee , just being honest. Gary