T/C New Englander ?

[rebs]

I picked up a used one for $75.00. It is in very good condition, the bore has a little rust in it. How do I clean the rust out ? What should it shoot best, round balls, maxi balls ?
What is the good and the bad about this rifle ?

[Hawg]

I would use some Kroil on a piece of Chore Boy copper scrubbing pad. Don't use a bronze brush in it because the bristles will reverse when you try to pull it out and it may get stuck. It has a 1:48 twist so should shoot round balls and conicals pretty well but it's not an ideal twist for either. You'll just have to play around with different loads to see what works best.

[Pahoo]

What is the good and the bad about this rifle ?

THE BAD;
As replied before, the heart of an M/L, is the barrel. The brains, is the lock. On bores like yours, I don't pass judgement until I have done my best to clean the bore. I'm going to assume that yours is a .50 so I will take a worn out .50cal bronze brush and wrap the end with 000 or 0000 steel wool. I will drip whatever rust solvent and Kroil oil will work but stinks. I use a product called Strong-Arm. I then proceed to pump the rod up and down, "several" times. The feel of the rod will let me know what's going on inside. I then follow-up with patches and they will be ugly. I check the bore with my bore light and I may repeat this process until I can do no more good. There a may not to perfect bores that are still good shooters. ......

THE GOOD;
I hope you have a walnut stock but suspect you might have the synthetic. This M/L's are short and light and great for hunting in timbers. The Locks are basically good and easy to work on. My sound strange but I have also done trigger jobs on them and other single-sets. Pay close attention to the crown area of the bore. Don't give up, just yet and let us know how you make out. You will have to work up your own optimum shot string but suspect you will work within the 70 to 95 grn range. FFG or FFFG is good. ......

Keep in touch and;
Be Safe !!!

[rebs]

when I started cleaning the bore I could feel it being rough about 8 inches or so in the bottom of the bore. I now have cleaned it so it feels smooth all the way. I am thinking all the rust is out. When I run a clean patch down the bore it comes out clean with no rust color on it.
It has a nice wood stock on it. Should I be shooting maxi or mini balls in it ?

[Pahoo]

When I run a clean patch down the bore it comes out clean with no rust color on it. It has a nice wood stock on it. Should I be shooting maxi or mini balls in it ?

That is great and looks like you are turning it around. I would strongly suggest you get a bore light and confirm your results. It's also good that you got a walnut stock and what a deal at $75.00. .....

Be Safe !!!

[DD4lifeusmc]

if you want to get really technical any BP ML built after the Hawken brothers quit building them, would be a fantasy piece.
Back in early 1800's to late 1850's it was common to see flintlocks by various makers.
because some held on to old traditions and were tooled and trained for such rifles.
So it did take several years to catch up to the new fangled percussion cap/

Today there is no true hawken out there. Unless somebody gets the Hawken patent and then makes the rifle that way.

So technically all we have are hawken copies. Some closer to the original than others

The Hawken "plains rifle" was made by Jacob and Samuel Hawken, in their St. Louis, Missouri shop, which they ran from 1815 to 1858.

so yes flintlocks were mase by them in the early years, and thus yours would not really be a fantasy piece

[Pahoo]

DD,
I think you might be on the wrong thread. This is the one that might fit better. ...

https://thefiringline.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=584100

Be Safe !!!

[Hawg]

if you want to get really technical any BP ML built after the Hawken brothers quit building them, would be a fantasy piece.
Back in early 1800's to late 1850's it was common to see flintlocks by various makers.
because some held on to old traditions and were tooled and trained for such rifles.
So it did take several years to catch up to the new fangled percussion cap/

Today there is no true hawken out there. Unless somebody gets the Hawken patent and then makes the rifle that way.

So technically all we have are hawken copies. Some closer to the original than others

The Hawken "plains rifle" was made by Jacob and Samuel Hawken, in their St. Louis, Missouri shop, which they ran from 1815 to 1858.

so yes flintlocks were mase by them in the early years, and thus yours would not really be a fantasy piece

Muzzle loaders were still being made in the 1930's. Hawken wasn't the only game in town and Gemmer didn't close the original Hawken shop until 1915. There are some true Hawken copies out there. Some of the originals have been blue printed. There is one Hawken flintlock known to exist but it's authenticity is questionable.

[Old Stony]

Your rifle is built as a basic tool, not something that was meant to replicate a historical piece. The New Englander is a versatile rifle that can be a lot of fun to play with...especially if you find a shotgun barrel to go with it. The shotgun barrels are a little tough to find and a little pricy, but it makes for a hunting firearm that is very versatile..and that is the whole idea behind the rifle.
It has the basic twist as the Hawken, 1:48 which does a tolerable job of shooting either RB or conicals. While not the absolute best for either, they can do a fairly good job with both.
You have a fun little muzzleloader to use for recreation or hunting and got a bargain on it.

[rebs]

I bought this New Englander as a fun gun to shoot, not as a replica of any other gun. When the weather gets better I will shoot it and post the results. What bullets do you guys recommend for target shooting ? I have a lb of Pyrodex RS and also a lb of DuPont FFG in a metal can.

[Pahoo]

I bought this New Englander as a fun gun to shoot, not as a replica of any other gun.

That is all that matters. When I have to make such measures, I look to see if it's "in-the-spirit". Some are more than others but at best, all are considered "Non-Replicas". I enjoy shooting and teaching all of them. .....

As far as propellants, currently I'm stuck on 777 but only because I still have a bunch. Looks like you are in the same boat with your Sulphur based propellants. That's fine but be sure to clean at the end of the day so you don't repeat what the previous owner did of didn't do. .....

Enjoy and;
Be Safe !!!

[rebs]

I still have slight roughness in the bottom maybe 8 inches of the barrel. I thought I had it all cleaned out but when I ran a patch down the bore this morning I got more rust color on the patch. I have been cleaning it with TC #13 bore cleaner. Can I let it soak with this cleaner in the bore ? Maybe I should be using something else ?

[Pahoo]

Maybe I should be using something else ?

When the powder residue is fresh, I use Ballistol and your TC #13 is suitable. However, once the residue starts to eat your barrel, then you need to use another product. As Hawg first recommended, use Kroil or similar product and keep scrubbing. Basically, you "now" need to attack the rust and yes, soaking will help........

Be Safe !!!

[rebs]

R E A L bullets or Hornady great plains, which would be better or are they both shooting the same ?
What 50 cal bullets do you guys recommend ?

[Pahoo]

JMHO

Hornady great plains,

However, you did say that you just want to shoot for fun. These Hornadys are great hunters and too pricey for punching paper. For now,, why not really have fun and shoot a PRB. This is the projectiles we teach with. .....

Be Safe !!!

[rebs]

I ordered 5 boxes of the great plains bullet on close out from midway usa. Under $6.00 per box of 20

[Sure Shot Mc Gee]

New Englander is a plain jane fun shooter. Don't be too disheartened over the little bit of rust found. Clean its barrel as best you can as the rust spot won't grow in area size after your scrubbing and in this circumstance I highly doubt will have any affect on a conical balls accuracy once its cleaned up a bit.

Hey that New Englander of yours should be able to hit a small paper plate at 100 yards with a patched ball. And those Hornady Great Plains should even show a better grouping. 2-3" separation in holes is quite common from them heavy weight bullets.

Tip: When shooting the Hornadys. Try putting a T/C pre-lubed button wad just under the bullet. Such a wad placement between the bullet and its charging sometimes tightens up a rifles groupings a tad. Enjoy >that smoke pole sir..

[Strafer Gott]

If you shoot roundball, a rough spot might grab the rag and screw with accuracy. You would probably feel that as you load. If it wasn't too bad, I might try to lap the barrel. These are handy little rifles for sure.

[rebs]

It was wearing a hole in the cleaning patch when I started cleaning but doesn't do that now since all the cleaning. Is it possible the roughness was also some leading in the bottom 8" of the barrel ?

How do,you lap the barrel ?

[Strafer Gott]

I use a wooden rod with paper wrapped around the rod end. Secure the paper with tape or saw a slot . I put lapping compound on the paper and push the pull the rod. I use a variable speed drill for low rpm's and turn direction to keep the paper tight. I used diamond paste 9 micron. Crocus cloth will work as well. You aren't trying to remove stock. Just enough to get the corrosion off and make the metal bright. This is nothing like fire lapping.

[4V50 Gary]

I'd shoot it. Clean it and take it from there.

[Hawg]

I'd shoot it. Clean it and take it from there.

What he said. Shooting it will remove any loose rust.