Dillon 550b primer slide sticking

Roland Thunder · December 26, 2014, 04:04 PM

I just changed calibers from 45acp to 9mm and I am noticing that the primer slide is sticking when I operate the crank and I have to nudge it with my finger. It just started doing this. I have tried cleaning everything with alcohol to no avail. Anything else I could clean or lubricate the slide with or the black metal plate it sets on. Other suggestions welcome.

https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B3Jc...JDWVRaOVk/edit

Griff, SASS93 · December 26, 2014, 04:54 PM

If you take off your primer feed and look at the "bearing" plate, see of there aren't minute scratches in it. I encountered the same thing after many thousands of rounds... I've used all types of lubricants, from dry graphite to white lithium and not one solved the problem... Until I contacted Dillon and they sent me a new bearing plate.

Then again, check out this thread: http://www.brianenos.com/forums/inde...owtopic=181925 It goes a LONG way to explain the whys and hows of this happens. You ain't the first, and heaven knows, won't be the last!

If I recall correctly, Dillon uses a Teflon coating on their primer plate.

Mavrick79 · December 26, 2014, 05:03 PM

Take out the two screws that hold the entire primer assembly to the press and remove it. Look at the aluminum block on the primer assembly where the two screws go and you may see that the aluminum has swelled out into the area that the primer bar slides. If so this will cause it to bind or stick. When you tighten the two screws too much it will actually cause the aluminum block to swell out causing the primer bar to bind. Simply sand it back down, clean it up and you should be good to go. You shouldn't need any lube on these parts. This seems to be a common problem and a weak point on the 550.

Kevin Rohrer · December 27, 2014, 01:34 AM

That metal plate the primer bar rides on may be dry. Try oiling it w/ a decent lubricant like Breakfree or Rem Oil.

1stmar · December 27, 2014, 03:44 AM

^^^^ this.. Worked for me, even after a new bearing plate from dillon. I used wd40 I think, may have been 10w30. Just a little. It was long ago and haven't had a problem since.

wogpotter · December 27, 2014, 10:45 AM

I disagree. DRY lube ONLY for primer areas. wet oils will wick & even if not enough to cause a problem the crud from decappig will combine with wet lube to make an abrasive sludge.
Dillons are particularly sensitive to this due to the configuration of the priming & spent primer systems.

Greg Mercurio · December 27, 2014, 10:52 AM

The primer bar slides on a steel bearing plate that keeps the aluminum primer bar from galling with the aluminum frame of the press. A regular cleaning and a wipe with an oily (not saturated) rag applied only to the bottom of the primer bar and the top surface of the bearing plate is usually all it takes to keep the primer bar actuating as it should. Primer residue is abrasive and buildup should be avoided.

dahermit · December 27, 2014, 11:19 AM

I agree with Wogpotter. Every time I take the priming system apart to change from large to small primers, I clean the bearing plate, and lube with silicone spray. The spray dries into a dry lubricant which will not migrate into the primer cup as "wet" lubes will do. This system has solved the problem for me.

Griff, SASS93 · December 27, 2014, 04:27 PM

Quote:

The primer bar slides on a steel bearing plate that keeps the aluminum primer bar from galling with the aluminum frame of the press. A regular cleaning and a wipe with an oily (not saturated) rag applied only to the bottom of the primer bar and the top surface of the bearing plate is usually all it takes to keep the primer bar actuating as it should. Primer residue is abrasive and buildup should be avoided.

Actually, per Dillon, the primer & powder transfer bars are a mainly zinc alloy. And they melt far below that of aluminum. Don't ask how I know this... but suffice it to say that Dillon replaced both my primer & powder transfer bars on both my 550Bs.

Mavrick79 · December 27, 2014, 08:53 PM

Re read my post above and thank me later. You don't need any lube anywhere.

Ruger45LC · December 27, 2014, 09:00 PM

I just always loosened the two bolts (slightly) that hold the primer "tower" in place, that's always helped since it seems like when they're tight the primer slide tends to stick, my 550B is about 10yrs old. I know...super technical.

Mavrick79 · December 27, 2014, 09:26 PM

Ruger, that's because when you crank those down the aluminum block they screw into swells into the area where the bar slides. Take it apart, wipe out the inside and carefully look at it in the area that the primer bar slides, also rub your finger along it and you should feel a small bump right next to the threaded holes. Simply file or sand the high spots down.

243winxb · December 28, 2014, 11:08 AM

powdered graphite for locks http://www.homedepot.com/p/The-Hillm...3185/100137063

dahermit · December 29, 2014, 09:36 PM

Mavrick79, you may have over-tightened yours, but that is not necessarily everyone's problem. Most of the time (for those of us who do not over-tighten things), it is accumulate spent primer residue that has gotten in there.

Jim Watson · December 29, 2014, 09:48 PM

I started having a sticking primer bar.
I tried it clean and dry, lightly lubed, waxed, you name it. Nada.

Then I saw the youtube video on making an extended slide plate.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zI7HpdHvlco&app=desktop

That fixed it, I have had no sticking and only one flipped primer since getting my FLG to cut one out on the milling machine.

wogpotter · December 30, 2014, 10:37 AM

It actually says right in the RL 550b manual to "Lightly, just tighten" the screws, over torquing them is a bad idea.

UncleAlbert · December 30, 2014, 10:25 PM

My very first post to this forum.

I had the same problem when switching calibers. After a lot of frustration and troubleshooting I found the problem to be no more than a misaligned guide rod that moves the slide back and forth. It was out of line just enough to bind and make the slide stick. It can be adjusted by swiveling the the block attached to the outer primer tube. Hope this helps, it cured my problem of the slide sticking.

Mavrick79 · December 31, 2014, 08:53 AM

If your getting depriming debris on there then you obviously have to clean that. I don't deprime on mine so I have not experienced that.

The thing with over tightening the screws is I definitely overtightened them but I never cranked them down that hard based on the size screw. These need to be snugged up just enough to hold the primer assembly in place and no more or you will deform the aluminum block. It is a weak point and I just wanted to point that out to others who've done the same thing.

I still don't believe lube is needed in this area.

wogpotter · December 31, 2014, 10:03 AM

The guide rod is a factor, one frequently ignored as its not "at the site" of the problem. Just a slight rotation of the block can be a problem.

The local hardware store has a cheap fix for over torquing the primer tower bolts BTW. There is a press on knurled nut available for the hex bolts. Once forced on they stay put with no adhesives & you can use finger pressure to adequately, but not overly so, tighten those pesky bolts under the casting.

straight-shooter · December 31, 2014, 08:42 PM

Yep, torque on the tower bolts is critical as it need to be just snug. The main contributing factor was the guide rod alignment. The rod was slightly out of line and just some minor tweaking made the primer feed work like magic again.

expendable · January 1, 2015, 11:43 AM

Is this the first time you've put in the small primer bar?
If so make sure the plunger is straight in the bar and not dragging on the housing.

What the others have said about not over tightening the screws is correct and I never use liquid lube on the priming assy.
Dry graphite lube only.

Kurt

Kevin Rohrer · January 1, 2015, 11:32 PM

Worked for me, even after a new bearing plate from dillon. I used wd40 I think, may have been 10w30. Just a little. It was long ago and haven't had a problem since.

WD40 is not a lubricant. 10W30 would work, though.

1stmar · January 1, 2015, 11:43 PM

According to wd40 it is...

LUBRICATES: The product's lubricating ingredients are widely dispersed and tenaciously held to all moving parts.

takeaim · January 8, 2015, 07:11 PM

I've loaded ten's of thousands of pistol and rifle on my dillion and have had several parts replaced. My advice is to call Dillion and they will ship you what ever you need, primer bar bearing plate, at no charge. You cant beat their customer service, Ive been buying their stuff forever for that reason.

OnTheFly · January 8, 2015, 07:54 PM

I experienced the same problem while using a friend's 550. This distraction helped me produce two squibs. My friend is squeamish about tinkering with the equipment, but I can not keep my hands off of them. So while he was sleeping (he works nights) I disassembled the primer shuttle, wiped it clean, applied a light coat of dry lube and then wiped that off with a clean cloth, reassembled, and viola, problem solved.

As others have said there are many possibilities. I might just try a disassembly/inspection/cleaning while you look for any of the issues mentioned. Some issues are more common, but I wouldn't discount any possibility. Dillon is very helpful and a call to them could be a simple solution. However, I did have one issue that they had never heard of. It turned out to be a simple fix that I came up with on my own.

Fly

December 26, 2014, 04:04 PM	#1
Roland Thunder Senior Member Join Date: December 29, 2010 Location: Gwinnett County Georgia Posts: 1,137	Dillon 550b primer slide sticking I just changed calibers from 45acp to 9mm and I am noticing that the primer slide is sticking when I operate the crank and I have to nudge it with my finger. It just started doing this. I have tried cleaning everything with alcohol to no avail. Anything else I could clean or lubricate the slide with or the black metal plate it sets on. Other suggestions welcome. https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B3Jc...JDWVRaOVk/edit __________________ Do not follow where the path may lead, go, instead where there is no path and leave a trail - Ralph Waldo Emerson

December 26, 2014, 04:54 PM	#2
Griff, SASS93 Member Join Date: October 14, 2012 Posts: 22	If you take off your primer feed and look at the "bearing" plate, see of there aren't minute scratches in it. I encountered the same thing after many thousands of rounds... I've used all types of lubricants, from dry graphite to white lithium and not one solved the problem... Until I contacted Dillon and they sent me a new bearing plate. Then again, check out this thread: http://www.brianenos.com/forums/inde...owtopic=181925 It goes a LONG way to explain the whys and hows of this happens. You ain't the first, and heaven knows, won't be the last! If I recall correctly, Dillon uses a Teflon coating on their primer plate. Last edited by Griff, SASS93; December 26, 2014 at 05:03 PM.

December 27, 2014, 01:34 AM	#4
Kevin Rohrer Senior Member Join Date: May 19, 2010 Location: Medina, Ohio Posts: 1,050	That metal plate the primer bar rides on may be dry. Try oiling it w/ a decent lubricant like Breakfree or Rem Oil. __________________ Member: Orange Gunsite Family, NRA--Life, ARTCA, and American Legion. Caveat Emptor: Cavery Grips/AmericanGripz/Prestige Grips/Stealth Grips from Clayton, NC. He is a scammer

January 1, 2015, 11:32 PM	#22
Kevin Rohrer Senior Member Join Date: May 19, 2010 Location: Medina, Ohio Posts: 1,050	Worked for me, even after a new bearing plate from dillon. I used wd40 I think, may have been 10w30. Just a little. It was long ago and haven't had a problem since. WD40 is not a lubricant. 10W30 would work, though. __________________ Member: Orange Gunsite Family, NRA--Life, ARTCA, and American Legion. Caveat Emptor: Cavery Grips/AmericanGripz/Prestige Grips/Stealth Grips from Clayton, NC. He is a scammer

January 8, 2015, 07:11 PM	#24
takeaim Junior Member Join Date: January 1, 2015 Posts: 1	Sticky primer bar I've loaded ten's of thousands of pistol and rifle on my dillion and have had several parts replaced. My advice is to call Dillion and they will ship you what ever you need, primer bar bearing plate, at no charge. You cant beat their customer service, Ive been buying their stuff forever for that reason.

December 26, 2014, 05:03 PM	#3
Mavrick79 Senior Member Join Date: August 25, 2013 Posts: 143	Take out the two screws that hold the entire primer assembly to the press and remove it. Look at the aluminum block on the primer assembly where the two screws go and you may see that the aluminum has swelled out into the area that the primer bar slides. If so this will cause it to bind or stick. When you tighten the two screws too much it will actually cause the aluminum block to swell out causing the primer bar to bind. Simply sand it back down, clean it up and you should be good to go. You shouldn't need any lube on these parts. This seems to be a common problem and a weak point on the 550.

December 27, 2014, 03:44 AM	#5
1stmar Senior Member Join Date: March 21, 2012 Location: Connecticut Posts: 2,378	^^^^ this.. Worked for me, even after a new bearing plate from dillon. I used wd40 I think, may have been 10w30. Just a little. It was long ago and haven't had a problem since.

December 27, 2014, 10:45 AM	#6
wogpotter Senior Member Join Date: September 27, 2004 Posts: 4,811	I disagree. DRY lube ONLY for primer areas. wet oils will wick & even if not enough to cause a problem the crud from decappig will combine with wet lube to make an abrasive sludge. Dillons are particularly sensitive to this due to the configuration of the priming & spent primer systems.

December 27, 2014, 10:52 AM	#7
Greg Mercurio Senior Member Join Date: December 5, 2010 Posts: 151	The primer bar slides on a steel bearing plate that keeps the aluminum primer bar from galling with the aluminum frame of the press. A regular cleaning and a wipe with an oily (not saturated) rag applied only to the bottom of the primer bar and the top surface of the bearing plate is usually all it takes to keep the primer bar actuating as it should. Primer residue is abrasive and buildup should be avoided.

December 27, 2014, 11:19 AM	#8
dahermit Senior Member Join Date: October 28, 2006 Location: South Central Michigan...near Posts: 6,501	I agree with Wogpotter. Every time I take the priming system apart to change from large to small primers, I clean the bearing plate, and lube with silicone spray. The spray dries into a dry lubricant which will not migrate into the primer cup as "wet" lubes will do. This system has solved the problem for me.

December 27, 2014, 08:53 PM	#10
Mavrick79 Senior Member Join Date: August 25, 2013 Posts: 143	Re read my post above and thank me later. You don't need any lube anywhere.

December 27, 2014, 09:00 PM	#11
Ruger45LC Senior Member Join Date: July 24, 2005 Location: Kentucky Posts: 769	I just always loosened the two bolts (slightly) that hold the primer "tower" in place, that's always helped since it seems like when they're tight the primer slide tends to stick, my 550B is about 10yrs old. I know...super technical.

December 27, 2014, 09:26 PM	#12
Mavrick79 Senior Member Join Date: August 25, 2013 Posts: 143	Ruger, that's because when you crank those down the aluminum block they screw into swells into the area where the bar slides. Take it apart, wipe out the inside and carefully look at it in the area that the primer bar slides, also rub your finger along it and you should feel a small bump right next to the threaded holes. Simply file or sand the high spots down.

December 28, 2014, 11:08 AM	#13
243winxb Senior Member Join Date: July 26, 2011 Location: USA Posts: 1,758	powdered graphite for locks http://www.homedepot.com/p/The-Hillm...3185/100137063

December 29, 2014, 09:36 PM	#14
dahermit Senior Member Join Date: October 28, 2006 Location: South Central Michigan...near Posts: 6,501	Mavrick79, you may have over-tightened yours, but that is not necessarily everyone's problem. Most of the time (for those of us who do not over-tighten things), it is accumulate spent primer residue that has gotten in there.

December 29, 2014, 09:48 PM	#15
Jim Watson Senior Member Join Date: October 25, 2001 Location: Alabama Posts: 19,176	I started having a sticking primer bar. I tried it clean and dry, lightly lubed, waxed, you name it. Nada. Then I saw the youtube video on making an extended slide plate. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zI7HpdHvlco&app=desktop That fixed it, I have had no sticking and only one flipped primer since getting my FLG to cut one out on the milling machine.

December 30, 2014, 10:37 AM	#16
wogpotter Senior Member Join Date: September 27, 2004 Posts: 4,811	It actually says right in the RL 550b manual to "Lightly, just tighten" the screws, over torquing them is a bad idea.

December 30, 2014, 10:25 PM	#17
UncleAlbert Junior Member Join Date: December 29, 2014 Posts: 2	My very first post to this forum. I had the same problem when switching calibers. After a lot of frustration and troubleshooting I found the problem to be no more than a misaligned guide rod that moves the slide back and forth. It was out of line just enough to bind and make the slide stick. It can be adjusted by swiveling the the block attached to the outer primer tube. Hope this helps, it cured my problem of the slide sticking.

December 31, 2014, 08:53 AM	#18
Mavrick79 Senior Member Join Date: August 25, 2013 Posts: 143	If your getting depriming debris on there then you obviously have to clean that. I don't deprime on mine so I have not experienced that. The thing with over tightening the screws is I definitely overtightened them but I never cranked them down that hard based on the size screw. These need to be snugged up just enough to hold the primer assembly in place and no more or you will deform the aluminum block. It is a weak point and I just wanted to point that out to others who've done the same thing. I still don't believe lube is needed in this area.

December 31, 2014, 10:03 AM	#19
wogpotter Senior Member Join Date: September 27, 2004 Posts: 4,811	The guide rod is a factor, one frequently ignored as its not "at the site" of the problem. Just a slight rotation of the block can be a problem. The local hardware store has a cheap fix for over torquing the primer tower bolts BTW. There is a press on knurled nut available for the hex bolts. Once forced on they stay put with no adhesives & you can use finger pressure to adequately, but not overly so, tighten those pesky bolts under the casting.

December 31, 2014, 08:42 PM	#20
straight-shooter Senior Member Join Date: June 12, 2007 Location: North Central Indiana Posts: 436	Yep, torque on the tower bolts is critical as it need to be just snug. The main contributing factor was the guide rod alignment. The rod was slightly out of line and just some minor tweaking made the primer feed work like magic again.

January 1, 2015, 11:43 AM	#21
expendable Member Join Date: September 18, 2009 Posts: 44	Is this the first time you've put in the small primer bar? If so make sure the plunger is straight in the bar and not dragging on the housing. What the others have said about not over tightening the screws is correct and I never use liquid lube on the priming assy. Dry graphite lube only. Kurt

January 1, 2015, 11:43 PM	#23
1stmar Senior Member Join Date: March 21, 2012 Location: Connecticut Posts: 2,378	According to wd40 it is... LUBRICATES: The product's lubricating ingredients are widely dispersed and tenaciously held to all moving parts.

January 8, 2015, 07:54 PM	#25
OnTheFly Senior Member Join Date: January 9, 2007 Location: SE Nebraska Posts: 859	I experienced the same problem while using a friend's 550. This distraction helped me produce two squibs. My friend is squeamish about tinkering with the equipment, but I can not keep my hands off of them. So while he was sleeping (he works nights) I disassembled the primer shuttle, wiped it clean, applied a light coat of dry lube and then wiped that off with a clean cloth, reassembled, and viola, problem solved. As others have said there are many possibilities. I might just try a disassembly/inspection/cleaning while you look for any of the issues mentioned. Some issues are more common, but I wouldn't discount any possibility. Dillon is very helpful and a call to them could be a simple solution. However, I did have one issue that they had never heard of. It turned out to be a simple fix that I came up with on my own. Fly