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#1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: January 10, 2012
Posts: 3,881
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removing cylander rings ?
what is the best way to remove the rings in each cylinder after shooting a revolver ? Also the best way to remove the carbon from the front of the cylinder ?
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#2 |
Staff
Join Date: November 2, 1998
Location: Colorado
Posts: 22,300
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If it's a stainless steel revolver, I use that wipe away cloth. I won't use that on blued guns.
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Vigilantibus et non dormientibus jura subveniunt. Molon Labe! |
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#3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: April 7, 2006
Posts: 11,105
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It's best to leave residual rings alone. There is no need to remove them.
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#4 |
Staff
Join Date: November 2, 1998
Location: Colorado
Posts: 22,300
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just remembered
Brass bristle brushes for blued guns. Then use Hoppe's to remove the brass residue.
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Vigilantibus et non dormientibus jura subveniunt. Molon Labe! |
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#5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: October 25, 2001
Location: Alabama
Posts: 19,172
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Is this for sure burn rings or are you maybe looking at the step-down from chamber to throat? That looks pretty dark.
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#6 |
Senior Member
Join Date: January 10, 2012
Posts: 3,881
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It looks like a raised burn ring
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#7 |
Senior Member
Join Date: March 11, 2010
Location: South East Pa.
Posts: 3,364
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I have had good luck with AT fluid. I have had people bring in DA revolvers that were almost uncockable because of carbon build up in front of the cylinder and soaking it with AT fluid broke down the carbon to the point it was easy to remove.
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#8 |
Senior Member
Join Date: January 10, 2012
Posts: 3,881
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I take it the AF fluid didn't hurt the bluing ?
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#9 | |
Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: April 27, 2013
Location: Ohio
Posts: 1,923
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Quote:
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#10 |
Senior Member
Join Date: January 10, 2012
Posts: 3,881
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Thanks for all the replies, I appreciate it
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#11 |
Senior Member
Join Date: March 11, 2010
Location: South East Pa.
Posts: 3,364
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Never had a problem with AT fluid. Better to break down the carbon instead of scrubbing at the blueing with a stiff brush.
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