Lee Perfect Powder Measure/Stand

wingman · June 10, 2010, 01:03 PM

Purchase a lee powder measure and find it operated fine however the included steel stand is positioned incorrect for use with loading block.

What is needed is a stand similar to the Lyman 55 which sets the device out from stand. Has someone build a stand that provides better clearance/ support. If so provide some pictures if possible. Feeling lazy today don't want to think hard.

Mr Kris · June 10, 2010, 01:07 PM

Hmm, do you put 50 rounds in the loading block, and then charge each case as it sits in the block?

okiefarmer · June 10, 2010, 01:19 PM

Yeah, wingman, I have noticed the same issue with the LEE stand. I use those little wooden MIDWAY blocks that are longer than they are wide. I never could get the row down the center to reach the charging nipple. It was real hard to not load the entire block, ya know, they made 50 holes, gotta usem' all attitude. But, what works best is just leave the center row empty, and load 40 at a time. Hasn't seemed to slow the process down much. Simple intermidiary fix without going to the drawing board, but it wouldn't take much do fab a little extension for the measure and hang it out over the edge of loading bench.

Mr Kris · June 10, 2010, 01:24 PM

It never occurred to me to do it that way...

I always start with my primed/uncharged brass to my left, pick it up once piece at a time and charge, then place the charged brass in a load block to my right. I would think moving around 50 cases 50 times time would be awkward, but everyone has their own way of doing things.

wingman · June 10, 2010, 01:45 PM

Yep, I use my Lyman in that manner load 25 rotate block do last 25,never had problems in that manner purchased the Lee for extreme small amounts of powder for 380, 9x18, and it seems consistent at this point but stand sucks, think I can heat and bend the stand where it connect to measure and let it protrude out from bench or perhaps clamp it to my Lyman steel stand.
Simply stand is just to weak not considering problems with loading block.

wncchester · June 10, 2010, 01:46 PM

Dropping charges directly into cases in a block is MUCH faster and easier to maintain a consistant rythum too. Picking up a case, charging it and returning it to the block one at a time would be much slower. At least for me.

When I do weigh some (rifle) charges I still do it with all cases in a block. Trickled charges are poured into each case though a powder funnel, the funnel is immediately moved to the next case and it's all repeated until finished.

I had to make my own powder measure stand to get the height and reach I wanted. Couple pieces of 2" steel bar 1/2" thick, a 12" length of 2" pipe and a little welding.

DocAitch · June 10, 2010, 06:59 PM

I'm with Mr Kris. I have never thought about charging the cases while still in the loading block either.
I like the perfect powder measure which I have attached to a piece of 2x4" and which I clamp to the bench. Part of my loading/charging sequence is to strike the metal support with a 15" piece of 1/2" dowel twice with the charge chamber down and then 2 more with the chamber up. It is quite sturdy and there is nothing else on this plastic measure that will take this pounding,so I would be hesitant to change it.
You could make your own two row(or 4 row) loading block with some 1x and a drill press or hand drill.
DocAitch

riverwalker76 · June 10, 2010, 07:01 PM

I think the Lee Powder measure is a great product. It throws the exact same charge from 1 -100 in a block, and I have my stand modified to hang over the bench.

If you have a MAP gas torch, piece of scrap steel, a drill w/ bits, a steel mallet, and an anvil / old railroad tie you can make a pretty good stand that will hang over the bench. Don't have time to take a picture right now, but if I think about it ... I will later.

In order to make a good 'hang over' stand for the Lee Measure you will need a piece of steel about twice as thick as the one supplied. On the original design ... the metal is only good for the downward force placed on the handle when dropping a charge using that design. You will need a piece of steel twice as thick so you can offset the measure and still keep in firmly in place.

wingman · June 10, 2010, 07:20 PM

Quote:

I had to make my own powder measure stand to get the height and reach I wanted. Couple pieces of 2" steel bar 1/2" thick, a 12" length of 2" pipe and a little welding.

I appreciate all the input, since I don't have a welder I simply used a propane torch to heat the Lee bracket bend into required shape and then bolted to my Lyman stand which is thick heavy metal and strong. Works great and so far after some testing its throws a more consistent charge them my Lyman 55 so all in all pleased, I can switch between the Lyman or the Lee in a couple minutes but Lee needs to provide or sell at extra charge a better bracket.

Poodleshooter · June 11, 2010, 12:30 PM

Lee pot metal wins again!

That bracket is pretty lightweight aluminum,IIRC.

I just run charges directly into the cases from my Lee PPM,check the case visually as I move it to the press,then immediately seat a bullet. I pull from a bag or bin of empty primed cases on my left, charge them in the middle, and seat a bullet to my right,then toss them in a labeled box.
My cases never see a loading block.

Memnok · June 11, 2010, 12:58 PM

Quote:

I always start with my primed/uncharged brass to my left, pick it up once piece at a time and charge, then place the charged brass in a load block to my right. I would think moving around 50 cases 50 times time would be awkward, but everyone has their own way of doing things.

I work the same way as Mr Kris.

As much as people around these reloading forums like to say they reload in a distraction free environment, life happens. And with three kids, a wife, and dogs, it happens frequently at my house.

In order to prevent double charges, or empty cases getting into my gun I like to separate out my steps as much as possible. Like Mr Kris, I have primed cases on one side of my powder measure and a loading block on the other side. I charge the cases one my one, and when my block is full, I look down and confirm they are all charged, and nothing looks out of place or double charged.

Then I close the lid on my remaining primed cases. This way, when the kids/wife/dogs/phone/door interrupt my process, I don't accidentally grab from the wrong place and end up with an empty case, or double charge because I lost my place. There's nothing worse than seating a bullet then trying to remember where you grabbed that case from...

My apologies to the OP about straying off topic.

wingman · June 11, 2010, 03:52 PM

Quote:

That bracket is pretty lightweight aluminum,IIRC.

No kidding wouldn't hold a sheet of paper down in a room with a China built 6 inch fan.

I've used the loading block method for nearly 40 years, old habits hard to break, never over charged one yet, (knocking on wood now).

sc928porsche · June 11, 2010, 11:32 PM

Hummmmmmmm.......Ive been doing it wrong all this time. I throw a "short" charge into the scale pan, trickle till its dead on, then fill case and put into the loading block. YUP..........Im anal!!!!!!!

Bailey Boat · June 12, 2010, 06:19 AM

Use a Little Dandy and you can charge them without ever removing them from the block......

wingman · June 12, 2010, 07:33 AM

Quote:

Hummmmmmmm.......Ive been doing it wrong all this time. I throw a "short" charge into the scale pan, trickle till its dead on, then fill case and put into the loading block. YUP..........Im anal!!!!!!!

Same here for rifle loads used for target shooting and working up loads but for pistol I use the block once I have an established load.

Memnok · June 12, 2010, 07:17 PM

Quote:

Hummmmmmmm.......Ive been doing it wrong all this time. I throw a "short" charge into the scale pan, trickle till its dead on, then fill case and put into the loading block. YUP..........Im anal!!!!!!!

I'm with Wingman and sc928porsche on the rifle rounds. Throw them light and trickle to perfection.

But the pistol get done a lot faster.

DocAitch · June 13, 2010, 01:18 PM

Poodle shooter and Wingman,
The bracket on my measure is steel. I have been whacking it with either a oiece of brass rod or that dowel mentioned above for years now and its doing just fine.
DocAitch

wingman · June 13, 2010, 04:05 PM

Quote:

Poodle shooter and Wingman,
The bracket on my measure is steel. I have been whacking it with either a oiece of brass rod or that dowel mentioned above for years now and its doing just fine. DocAitch

Certainly believe you perhaps been a change in product, if you whacked mine it would sing like a cheap violin, it is so flimsy that when charging (bolted) to heavy table the hopper would vibrate. Works fine bolted to steel. I find it the norm in our modern global manufacturing to jury rig purchases.

oneoldsap · June 13, 2010, 08:01 PM

I have shelving about a foot over my bench to which I fastened a 1 1/2 " piece of wood about a foot long under the bottom shelf . I clamp my Lyman 55 to it and I have a clear bench . The Lyman comes with a knocker on it , so I don't have to beat on it with foreign objects . Knock twice dump and weigh each charge . I set it up .2 Grains short and finish with a Redding Trickler . Repitition is the name of the game , just like shooting >

June 10, 2010, 01:03 PM	#1
wingman Senior Member Join Date: August 20, 2002 Posts: 2,108	Lee Perfect Powder Measure/Stand Purchase a lee powder measure and find it operated fine however the included steel stand is positioned incorrect for use with loading block. What is needed is a stand similar to the Lyman 55 which sets the device out from stand. Has someone build a stand that provides better clearance/ support. If so provide some pictures if possible. Feeling lazy today don't want to think hard.

June 10, 2010, 06:59 PM	#7
DocAitch Member Join Date: March 16, 2010 Location: North of Baltimore Posts: 60	Powder measure I'm with Mr Kris. I have never thought about charging the cases while still in the loading block either. I like the perfect powder measure which I have attached to a piece of 2x4" and which I clamp to the bench. Part of my loading/charging sequence is to strike the metal support with a 15" piece of 1/2" dowel twice with the charge chamber down and then 2 more with the chamber up. It is quite sturdy and there is nothing else on this plastic measure that will take this pounding,so I would be hesitant to change it. You could make your own two row(or 4 row) loading block with some 1x and a drill press or hand drill. DocAitch Last edited by DocAitch; June 10, 2010 at 07:00 PM. Reason: mis spelled powder

June 13, 2010, 01:18 PM	#17
DocAitch Member Join Date: March 16, 2010 Location: North of Baltimore Posts: 60	Perfect Powder Measure Bracket Poodle shooter and Wingman, The bracket on my measure is steel. I have been whacking it with either a oiece of brass rod or that dowel mentioned above for years now and its doing just fine. DocAitch

June 10, 2010, 01:07 PM	#2
Mr Kris Senior Member Join Date: July 24, 2005 Location: USA Posts: 111	Hmm, do you put 50 rounds in the loading block, and then charge each case as it sits in the block?

June 10, 2010, 01:19 PM	#3
okiefarmer Senior Member Join Date: February 20, 2006 Location: Oklahoma Posts: 381	Yeah, wingman, I have noticed the same issue with the LEE stand. I use those little wooden MIDWAY blocks that are longer than they are wide. I never could get the row down the center to reach the charging nipple. It was real hard to not load the entire block, ya know, they made 50 holes, gotta usem' all attitude. But, what works best is just leave the center row empty, and load 40 at a time. Hasn't seemed to slow the process down much. Simple intermidiary fix without going to the drawing board, but it wouldn't take much do fab a little extension for the measure and hang it out over the edge of loading bench.

June 10, 2010, 01:24 PM	#4
Mr Kris Senior Member Join Date: July 24, 2005 Location: USA Posts: 111	It never occurred to me to do it that way... I always start with my primed/uncharged brass to my left, pick it up once piece at a time and charge, then place the charged brass in a load block to my right. I would think moving around 50 cases 50 times time would be awkward, but everyone has their own way of doing things.

June 10, 2010, 01:45 PM	#5
wingman Senior Member Join Date: August 20, 2002 Posts: 2,108	Yep, I use my Lyman in that manner load 25 rotate block do last 25,never had problems in that manner purchased the Lee for extreme small amounts of powder for 380, 9x18, and it seems consistent at this point but stand sucks, think I can heat and bend the stand where it connect to measure and let it protrude out from bench or perhaps clamp it to my Lyman steel stand. Simply stand is just to weak not considering problems with loading block.

June 10, 2010, 01:46 PM	#6
wncchester Senior Member Join Date: December 1, 2002 Posts: 2,832	Dropping charges directly into cases in a block is MUCH faster and easier to maintain a consistant rythum too. Picking up a case, charging it and returning it to the block one at a time would be much slower. At least for me. When I do weigh some (rifle) charges I still do it with all cases in a block. Trickled charges are poured into each case though a powder funnel, the funnel is immediately moved to the next case and it's all repeated until finished. I had to make my own powder measure stand to get the height and reach I wanted. Couple pieces of 2" steel bar 1/2" thick, a 12" length of 2" pipe and a little welding.

June 10, 2010, 07:01 PM	#8
riverwalker76 Senior Member Join Date: February 13, 2010 Location: Kentucky Posts: 993	I think the Lee Powder measure is a great product. It throws the exact same charge from 1 -100 in a block, and I have my stand modified to hang over the bench. If you have a MAP gas torch, piece of scrap steel, a drill w/ bits, a steel mallet, and an anvil / old railroad tie you can make a pretty good stand that will hang over the bench. Don't have time to take a picture right now, but if I think about it ... I will later. In order to make a good 'hang over' stand for the Lee Measure you will need a piece of steel about twice as thick as the one supplied. On the original design ... the metal is only good for the downward force placed on the handle when dropping a charge using that design. You will need a piece of steel twice as thick so you can offset the measure and still keep in firmly in place.

June 11, 2010, 12:30 PM	#10
Poodleshooter Senior Member Join Date: August 7, 2000 Location: Floating down the James River in VA Posts: 2,599	Lee pot metal wins again! That bracket is pretty lightweight aluminum,IIRC. I just run charges directly into the cases from my Lee PPM,check the case visually as I move it to the press,then immediately seat a bullet. I pull from a bag or bin of empty primed cases on my left, charge them in the middle, and seat a bullet to my right,then toss them in a labeled box. My cases never see a loading block.

June 11, 2010, 11:32 PM	#13
sc928porsche Senior Member Join Date: May 29, 2008 Location: now living in alabama Posts: 2,433	Hummmmmmmm.......Ive been doing it wrong all this time. I throw a "short" charge into the scale pan, trickle till its dead on, then fill case and put into the loading block. YUP..........Im anal!!!!!!!

June 12, 2010, 06:19 AM	#14
Bailey Boat Junior member Join Date: December 10, 2006 Location: NC Posts: 365	Use a Little Dandy and you can charge them without ever removing them from the block......

June 13, 2010, 08:01 PM	#19
oneoldsap Senior Member Join Date: September 16, 2009 Location: I live in the foot of the Green Mountains of Vermont Posts: 1,602	I have shelving about a foot over my bench to which I fastened a 1 1/2 " piece of wood about a foot long under the bottom shelf . I clamp my Lyman 55 to it and I have a clear bench . The Lyman comes with a knocker on it , so I don't have to beat on it with foreign objects . Knock twice dump and weigh each charge . I set it up .2 Grains short and finish with a Redding Trickler . Repitition is the name of the game , just like shooting >