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Old February 2, 2007, 03:43 AM   #1
skeeter
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Can not un Lock-tite set screw

Gunsmith was checking out my new Gunsite CCO for a jamming condition and said it was shooting to the left and that the rear Novak sight set screw was loose. He used some type of Lock-tite on the set screw but never adjusted the sight.
I have tried heat ( heating a hex wrench several times red hot and then putting it in the hex screw ) and alcohol but it is too tight to move.
Any other ideas? Should the gunsmith be responsible to fix this?
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Old February 2, 2007, 06:25 AM   #2
mete
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Loctite and epoxies usually break loose when heated to 400 F If it's stiil tight after that heat there's more than a loctite problem.
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Old February 2, 2007, 10:03 AM   #3
CraigJS
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The gun smith messed it up, he should make it right..
Kind of stupid on his part to loctite a part that may need adjusting, using that grade of Loctite. Hell even a spot of clear nail polish may have been enough.
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Old February 2, 2007, 11:06 AM   #4
Ausserordeutlich
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Heating an allen wrench will NEVER work. Touch a soldering iron to the screw for a few secs. Alcohol won't work either!
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Old February 2, 2007, 06:40 PM   #5
jcadwell
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Second on the soldering iron. All you are doing to the allen wrench is ruining the heat treating of the tool.
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Old February 2, 2007, 07:32 PM   #6
inkie
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If the iron won't work, try acetone or toluene which should resoften the Locktite.
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Old February 3, 2007, 12:23 AM   #7
wolverine350
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Try a heat gun
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Old February 3, 2007, 11:48 AM   #8
Lazy D
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try a butane torch lighter

I have some of those butane torch lighters that I use for just such an occasion. They put out a small blue torch flame. It is just hot enough and small enough to put it right where you need it.
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Old February 3, 2007, 12:25 PM   #9
waynedm
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Novak set screws are supposed to be Loctited, that's why when you buy an Ed Brown or whatever that comes with Novaks it comes with a little vile of Loctite, the smith didn't do anything wrong.

Like many have stated, heat is the answer for loctite. The soldering iron and little butane torch ideas sound like they should work.
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Old February 3, 2007, 01:30 PM   #10
Ausserordeutlich
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Since he's been given the same advice on this and at least one other board, hopefully, he's removed that screw by now!
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Old February 3, 2007, 02:24 PM   #11
Edward429451
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Ya know, I've never understood the so called loctite problems. I've never had any problems removing screws even with the red permanent loctite, on guns or at work. You just need to use a screwdriver or allen wrench that perfectly fits.

Shake well, one drop. Done.

Am I using it wrong or just been lucky, or what?

The blue stuff is removeable and its the red that is 'permanent', correct? This baffles me because I've never had a problem with it.
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Old February 3, 2007, 06:27 PM   #12
Odd Job
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I had a similar problem.
I sent my Vektor CP1 to LIW in South Africa when the recalls/warnings came out about the gun being able to fire if dropped. They upgraded the slide and returned the gun to me with a note advising that I had a left hand mag release. Well I knew that, because I installed said release. They also reset my front sight to factory spec (dead center).
That annoyed me because once again I had set it off to one side because that suits my aim. Unfortunately for me they also used some kind of loctite on that front sight and I couldn't shift it at all. They not only used the adhesive on the grub screw but also the flat base of the front sight as it sits in its dovetailed groove. I was really annoyed by this and I wasn't going to send the gun back.
In the end I had to drill the grub screw out very carefully then tap the sight post out with a hammer. I had to carry without a front sight while I ordered a new grub screw. Whatever they used, left a pale beige residue on the sight base. It took a lot of scraping with a screwdriver to remove. I was not impressed.
Why must the manufacturer mess with the customer's preferences?
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Old February 4, 2007, 11:54 AM   #13
Harry Bonar
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set screw

dear sir;
If your novak rear was cut properly you don't need a set-screw!
I worked for wayne as a sub-contractor for years until the death of my son, vbice-pres. of Novaks, Joe bonar.
I cut the sights, grasping grooves, frame modifications, and special projects for years and cut thousands of sights. We cut the rear sight cut so that you had to drive the rear sight in - no 'set-screw' was ever needed - they were never loc-tited! the front was secured the same way and secured with a roll pin in front. However, a set screw was provided and we just screwed it in for effect. A sight that needed a set-screw to hold it in was mis-cut!
As to your rear sometimes it took a good brass punch and a good ball peen hammer to move them and a good lined vise to hold the slide!
The soldering iron is good for your sight - it should work.
Harry B.
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Old February 4, 2007, 12:39 PM   #14
sodflyer
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My vote is for the heat... above 400 F will kill the loctite. On that note you are better off using the right loctite per application ( I know you did not apply it) just look up what is needed per bolt/setscrew. Hope he did not use the 680!
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Old February 5, 2007, 10:41 AM   #15
CraigJS
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Perhaps check with the gunsmith and find out what he did to the screw before you create more problems..
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Old February 5, 2007, 11:59 AM   #16
Ausserordeutlich
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What could he possibly have done to the screw, other than apply Loctite or a similar threadlocker?
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Old February 8, 2007, 11:27 AM   #17
OlderFox
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Revoke the smith's licence

Cheers
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Old February 8, 2007, 04:06 PM   #18
CraigJS
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I've run into screws that were CROSS threaded and to look at them you couldn't tell with the screw in place.. That's what he could have done and that's why I said it was his problem to fix it. (or to pay another smith that knows what he's doing to fix it) You paid for a service, you didn't get that service. If you goober it up trying to fix it yourself, you just gave him a way out. He'll say YOU did it.
My advice is worth no more than what you paid for it, just like all internet advice.
Hope it works out for you, be safe..
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