Case cleaning

randleland · February 27, 2006, 02:34 PM

As a newbie, deciding what to buy (don't have anything, yet), I'd like to learn if there's any advantage to vibratory vs. tumbling case cleaners (for .45ACP and .308Win.). While I'm at it, liquid vs. solid cleaning media. Sure appreciate your input. Thanks, -r

Robert M Boren Sr · February 27, 2006, 02:49 PM

I've used both for cleaning brass. I do say I'd lean more towards the viberator type cleaning system. I use walnut media and use a reactivator when it starts taking long to clean the brass. The tumbler usually took over night to clean brass, while the viberator does it in about 2 hrs or so depending on how fresh the media is. I have a Lyman Pro Magnum 2500 and I use Dillon's seperator to seperate the brass from the media. I didn't have to get one but now am really glad I did.

caz223 · February 27, 2006, 03:02 PM

Usually, people who like vibratory case cleaning, tend to like dry media with a minimum of polish, or none at all.
I happen to like vibratory (More capacity, more speed.), dry media, a shot of naptha and a few 1" squares torn from an old paper towel. Even media that used to be polishing media can get brass clean when used this way. It also polishes a tiny bit if you let it run for 4 hours, but who has the time?

People who use tumblers (I have one.) usually use wet polishing media to get the full effect, deprime before to be able to rinse wet media out of flash holes, let it run overnight (Pretty quiet.) and rinse and dry brass in oven, or spead out on a towel in front of a fan or in a section of dry area like sunroom, porch, etc.

Personally, I see that the tumbled brass looks better, but at what cost?
A lot more man hours. I clean brass to be able to inspect it for defects, to prevent damage to my dies and the chamber of my guns, and to insure proper function. Nothing in there is enhanced by having brass you can see yourself in.
I've gone years without tumble or vibration cleaning brass with no bad effects. (Meticulously handled revolver brass hot loaded with clean powder.)
After a few years it looks grungy and will eventually fail to chamber, or is so difficult to resize that you will give in and clean it.

Foxman · February 27, 2006, 06:49 PM

+ 1 on the vibratory cleaners. I use a one from Midway with corn cob and RCBS polishing power ( you only need add enough to make the media rotate in the drum and top up when it doesnt) I use another with walnut hull for final polish, but thats just me being picky, the corn cob does the cleaning ok.

MADISON · February 27, 2006, 07:59 PM

Since 1986 I have used the same Lyman 1200 vibrator.
I buy my media at "Pets Mart" for about $15 for 25 pounds for walnut hulls and, if you want, corn husk doesn't last nearly as long, but is about $15 for 15 pounds.
I change my media once a year.

Dave R · February 27, 2006, 08:15 PM

Ya gotta be careful about those vibrating case cleaners attracting graboids...(if you haven't seen Tremors, forget it.)

Tumblers are quieter, if that matters.

Mr_Magoo · February 27, 2006, 09:03 PM

I use a vibrating unit from Midway with walnut hulls to clean before sizing and depriming. It protects my sizing die. Then I use corn cob to polish and remove sizing lube.

Works for me.

Benzene · February 28, 2006, 01:57 AM

What if one does not bother to use one of these machines? What harm has anyone observed would result? Thanks.

HMSHarley · February 28, 2006, 06:42 AM

Hey Benzene:
The answer to your question on not cleaning brass, and what happens? It's like owning a car and NEVER doing an oil change or tune up. If you continue to run filthy grimy gritty brass through the chanber of your gun, you will eventually destroy your gun and its longevity. Not to mention it is not the best for your dies, either. The reason for clean and shiny brass is because it is so much easier to size and press bullets in the casings. It's almost like running your fingernails down a chalkboard when you run filthy brass through your dies and the chamber of your gun. JUST NOT A GOOD PRACTICE.. It doesn't have to shine. As long as it's reasonably clean. One other important thing is when you reload you should always inspect your brass too. When it's clean, it allows you to see stress points and cracks in your brass. So there you have it. I think most here will agree with me. I hope that this helps. Have a good day.

Harley

Benzene · February 28, 2006, 02:16 PM

Harley, thanks so much. Your input certainly helps. Especially when reference is made to (my brand new C6 'vet') car! I wonder whether you knew about it. I must be on my guard!

Dave R · February 28, 2006, 07:22 PM

Benzene, if you don't have a tumbler, you can still clean cases by hand. Its a little time consuming, but it still works. Back when, I just dunked 'em in soapy water, wiped 'em with a rag (especially the neck and shoulder), then rinse and dry. If you're in a hurry, you can dry 'em in the oven on low.

I have heard of people tying them in old socks and running through the washing machine, but I think that would rip up the socks pretty quick.

Nortonics · February 28, 2006, 08:30 PM

Tumbler. Fill 1/3 with aquarium gravel, add shells to within 2" from the top, fill with hot water just until the shells are covered, and add a squirt of Dawn dish washing detergent. About 3 hours of tumbling, then run through a media separator and laid out to dry for a day. I absolutely guarantee that nobody, and I mean nobody, will ever get their brass as clean using a dry method or a vibratory cleaner. And I'd also be willing to bet that nobody with a dry vibratory system can clean brass quicker, with less effort or a smaller cost, period. The brass that comes out of the system I use looks better than factory fresh unfired brass, both inside and out - N.S.

But then again super clean brass like this really is not so important. I'd bet half the time I don't even clean the brass at all - just scoop it up off the floor, take it home, and reload it. And please, don't anybody say the old unfounded remark that "if you don't clean your brass you'll damage your sizing die". I ain't never damaged mine yet, nor have I ever seen a damaged die from doing so, but I sure do read from tons of people, that have read from tons of people, that have read from tons of people, that they think that someone back about 10 years ago had one - please, if this can damage a die, I want to see a picture of about a half dozen damaged dies from other members. Ain't gonna' happen.

P.S. - I better preface that previous comment with the info that I only am speaking of straight walled, easy to load, bulk quantities, of handgun ammo. which is all I do - 9 different calibers. I might be completely off base (and probably am) in the more advanced world of reloading rifle ammo, of which I've never done.

randleland · March 1, 2006, 03:22 PM

Okay, a follow-up question:

When cleaning your brass, is the goal primarily to just clean the outside and primer hole (surfaces that contact dies and firearm, or affect ignition)? In otherwords, is there a downside to not cleaning the inside of your cases? When starting out, I'll likely just hand clean my cases, as I save up for more gear. Wondering whether I need to spin a wool mop inside each case, or just skip that.
Thanks, -r

Dave R · March 1, 2006, 03:57 PM

AFIK, there is no known benefit to cleaning the inside of your cases. There is also no known benefit, other than ego, to making your cases real shiney. You just want to remove the fouling so it doesn't abrade your dies and chambers.

Tumbling does NOT clean primer pockets real well. Primer fouling is pretty hard and the pocket doesn't allow the media to work well. You need a separate primer pocket cleaning tool to do that. Its a cheap one, though. $3-5.

Rimrock · March 3, 2006, 06:27 PM

randleland,
I've got both tumble and vibratory. The vib is much faster and accomodates more shells.
Like a lot a folks here I have a procedure which I follow each time.
First I decap and size I then soak & shake my brass in a solution of Dawn detergent and lemon juice. I rinse with hot water and place vertically on stove to dry.
I then tumble for 2 hrs in "fine" walnut treated with lyman polish or equivalent.
Sometimes the soap/lemon solution is enough to get the job done but if your looking for jewelry then vib with polish.

Rimrock

flutedchamber · March 4, 2006, 12:38 AM

I have had great luck with TSI400, which I bought from AMERICAN GAS AND CHEMICALS. I put the brass in a net bag that I bought in the laundry supply section of Walmart, pour the liquid in a gallon plastic pail, and soak for 10 minutes. Drain, rinse, and dry. Your cases are CLEAN!!!! Just remember to cover the soak bucket. I use it to clean 50 bmg cases. It is the only thing that cleans everything.

February 27, 2006, 02:34 PM	#1
randleland Member Join Date: February 10, 2006 Location: Ohio Posts: 22	Case cleaning As a newbie, deciding what to buy (don't have anything, yet), I'd like to learn if there's any advantage to vibratory vs. tumbling case cleaners (for .45ACP and .308Win.). While I'm at it, liquid vs. solid cleaning media. Sure appreciate your input. Thanks, -r

February 27, 2006, 03:02 PM	#3
caz223 Senior Member Join Date: May 15, 2002 Location: Michigan Posts: 1,429	Usually, people who like vibratory case cleaning, tend to like dry media with a minimum of polish, or none at all. I happen to like vibratory (More capacity, more speed.), dry media, a shot of naptha and a few 1" squares torn from an old paper towel. Even media that used to be polishing media can get brass clean when used this way. It also polishes a tiny bit if you let it run for 4 hours, but who has the time? People who use tumblers (I have one.) usually use wet polishing media to get the full effect, deprime before to be able to rinse wet media out of flash holes, let it run overnight (Pretty quiet.) and rinse and dry brass in oven, or spead out on a towel in front of a fan or in a section of dry area like sunroom, porch, etc. Personally, I see that the tumbled brass looks better, but at what cost? A lot more man hours. I clean brass to be able to inspect it for defects, to prevent damage to my dies and the chamber of my guns, and to insure proper function. Nothing in there is enhanced by having brass you can see yourself in. I've gone years without tumble or vibration cleaning brass with no bad effects. (Meticulously handled revolver brass hot loaded with clean powder.) After a few years it looks grungy and will eventually fail to chamber, or is so difficult to resize that you will give in and clean it. __________________ I'm not just a gun. I'm YOUR gun. (Hold me.)

February 27, 2006, 07:59 PM	#5
MADISON Senior Member Join Date: January 1, 2000 Location: Roanoke, Virginia Posts: 2,678	vibrator Since 1986 I have used the same Lyman 1200 vibrator. I buy my media at "Pets Mart" for about $15 for 25 pounds for walnut hulls and, if you want, corn husk doesn't last nearly as long, but is about $15 for 15 pounds. I change my media once a year.

February 28, 2006, 01:57 AM	#8
Benzene Junior member Join Date: January 27, 2005 Posts: 384	No vibrator or tumbler What if one does not bother to use one of these machines? What harm has anyone observed would result? Thanks.

February 28, 2006, 06:42 AM	#9
HMSHarley Junior Member Join Date: July 4, 2004 Posts: 7	Dirty Brass Hey Benzene: The answer to your question on not cleaning brass, and what happens? It's like owning a car and NEVER doing an oil change or tune up. If you continue to run filthy grimy gritty brass through the chanber of your gun, you will eventually destroy your gun and its longevity. Not to mention it is not the best for your dies, either. The reason for clean and shiny brass is because it is so much easier to size and press bullets in the casings. It's almost like running your fingernails down a chalkboard when you run filthy brass through your dies and the chamber of your gun. JUST NOT A GOOD PRACTICE.. It doesn't have to shine. As long as it's reasonably clean. One other important thing is when you reload you should always inspect your brass too. When it's clean, it allows you to see stress points and cracks in your brass. So there you have it. I think most here will agree with me. I hope that this helps. Have a good day. Harley

February 27, 2006, 02:49 PM	#2
Robert M Boren Sr Senior Member Join Date: December 29, 2004 Location: NW Montana Posts: 269	I've used both for cleaning brass. I do say I'd lean more towards the viberator type cleaning system. I use walnut media and use a reactivator when it starts taking long to clean the brass. The tumbler usually took over night to clean brass, while the viberator does it in about 2 hrs or so depending on how fresh the media is. I have a Lyman Pro Magnum 2500 and I use Dillon's seperator to seperate the brass from the media. I didn't have to get one but now am really glad I did.

February 27, 2006, 06:49 PM	#4
Foxman Senior Member Join Date: August 13, 2005 Posts: 466	+ 1 on the vibratory cleaners. I use a one from Midway with corn cob and RCBS polishing power ( you only need add enough to make the media rotate in the drum and top up when it doesnt) I use another with walnut hull for final polish, but thats just me being picky, the corn cob does the cleaning ok.

February 27, 2006, 08:15 PM	#6
Dave R Senior Member Join Date: January 7, 2000 Location: Idaho Posts: 6,073	Ya gotta be careful about those vibrating case cleaners attracting graboids...(if you haven't seen Tremors, forget it.) Tumblers are quieter, if that matters.

February 27, 2006, 09:03 PM	#7
Mr_Magoo Member Join Date: January 11, 2001 Posts: 46	I use a vibrating unit from Midway with walnut hulls to clean before sizing and depriming. It protects my sizing die. Then I use corn cob to polish and remove sizing lube. Works for me.

February 28, 2006, 02:16 PM	#10
Benzene Junior member Join Date: January 27, 2005 Posts: 384	It helps! Harley, thanks so much. Your input certainly helps. Especially when reference is made to (my brand new C6 'vet') car! I wonder whether you knew about it. I must be on my guard!

February 28, 2006, 07:22 PM	#11
Dave R Senior Member Join Date: January 7, 2000 Location: Idaho Posts: 6,073	Benzene, if you don't have a tumbler, you can still clean cases by hand. Its a little time consuming, but it still works. Back when, I just dunked 'em in soapy water, wiped 'em with a rag (especially the neck and shoulder), then rinse and dry. If you're in a hurry, you can dry 'em in the oven on low. I have heard of people tying them in old socks and running through the washing machine, but I think that would rip up the socks pretty quick.

February 28, 2006, 08:30 PM	#12
Nortonics Senior Member Join Date: December 2, 2004 Location: Murderapolis Posts: 521	Tumbler. Fill 1/3 with aquarium gravel, add shells to within 2" from the top, fill with hot water just until the shells are covered, and add a squirt of Dawn dish washing detergent. About 3 hours of tumbling, then run through a media separator and laid out to dry for a day. I absolutely guarantee that nobody, and I mean nobody, will ever get their brass as clean using a dry method or a vibratory cleaner. And I'd also be willing to bet that nobody with a dry vibratory system can clean brass quicker, with less effort or a smaller cost, period. The brass that comes out of the system I use looks better than factory fresh unfired brass, both inside and out - N.S. But then again super clean brass like this really is not so important. I'd bet half the time I don't even clean the brass at all - just scoop it up off the floor, take it home, and reload it. And please, don't anybody say the old unfounded remark that "if you don't clean your brass you'll damage your sizing die". I ain't never damaged mine yet, nor have I ever seen a damaged die from doing so, but I sure do read from tons of people, that have read from tons of people, that have read from tons of people, that they think that someone back about 10 years ago had one - please, if this can damage a die, I want to see a picture of about a half dozen damaged dies from other members. Ain't gonna' happen. P.S. - I better preface that previous comment with the info that I only am speaking of straight walled, easy to load, bulk quantities, of handgun ammo. which is all I do - 9 different calibers. I might be completely off base (and probably am) in the more advanced world of reloading rifle ammo, of which I've never done. Last edited by Nortonics; February 28, 2006 at 11:32 PM.

March 1, 2006, 03:22 PM	#13
randleland Member Join Date: February 10, 2006 Location: Ohio Posts: 22	Okay, a follow-up question: When cleaning your brass, is the goal primarily to just clean the outside and primer hole (surfaces that contact dies and firearm, or affect ignition)? In otherwords, is there a downside to not cleaning the inside of your cases? When starting out, I'll likely just hand clean my cases, as I save up for more gear. Wondering whether I need to spin a wool mop inside each case, or just skip that. Thanks, -r

March 1, 2006, 03:57 PM	#14
Dave R Senior Member Join Date: January 7, 2000 Location: Idaho Posts: 6,073	AFIK, there is no known benefit to cleaning the inside of your cases. There is also no known benefit, other than ego, to making your cases real shiney. You just want to remove the fouling so it doesn't abrade your dies and chambers. Tumbling does NOT clean primer pockets real well. Primer fouling is pretty hard and the pocket doesn't allow the media to work well. You need a separate primer pocket cleaning tool to do that. Its a cheap one, though. $3-5.

March 3, 2006, 06:27 PM	#15
Rimrock Junior member Join Date: February 19, 2006 Location: CA Posts: 273	randleland, I've got both tumble and vibratory. The vib is much faster and accomodates more shells. Like a lot a folks here I have a procedure which I follow each time. First I decap and size I then soak & shake my brass in a solution of Dawn detergent and lemon juice. I rinse with hot water and place vertically on stove to dry. I then tumble for 2 hrs in "fine" walnut treated with lyman polish or equivalent. Sometimes the soap/lemon solution is enough to get the job done but if your looking for jewelry then vib with polish. Rimrock

March 4, 2006, 12:38 AM	#16
flutedchamber Member Join Date: July 14, 2005 Location: New Jersey Posts: 61	I have had great luck with TSI400, which I bought from AMERICAN GAS AND CHEMICALS. I put the brass in a net bag that I bought in the laundry supply section of Walmart, pour the liquid in a gallon plastic pail, and soak for 10 minutes. Drain, rinse, and dry. Your cases are CLEAN!!!! Just remember to cover the soak bucket. I use it to clean 50 bmg cases. It is the only thing that cleans everything.