Ruger GP-100 Trigger-Assembly Removal

Voltaire · May 19, 2000, 06:25 PM

I have a Wolff spring-kit for my GP-100 that contains several hammer-return and trigger springs. I'd like to lighten the revolver's trigger pull by installing one of the lighter trigger-springs, but I can't figure out how to access the innards of the trigger assembly. I bought the weapon used, and I don't have the owner's manual to guide me through the process. Can anyone help? Thanks.

mowgli · May 19, 2000, 07:24 PM

After lurking awhile, I guess I'll jump in.

This is not the exact answer to the question, but:

This from the Ruger website,

FREE instruction manuals for all Ruger firearms are available free upon request. Please write: Sturm, Ruger & Company; Lacey Place; Southport, CT 06490. Please specify model for which you require a manual.

I have been having the same question because I am about to do the same thing with a Taurus.

After some research, I decided to get a copy of Gunsmithing : Pistols & Revolvers by Patrick Sweeney. Seems reasonable for $20 compared to the amount of learning I stand to get. If anyone has an opinion about this, please.

If this doesn't get moved to The Smithy forum, You may want to ask there. It seems here is a massive amount of wisdom there.

[This message has been edited by mowgli (edited May 19, 2000).]

**Mal H** · May 19, 2000, 11:49 PM

mowgli's right, you might get a better answer from our resident Smithy(s). Moving this over there....

George Stringer · May 20, 2000, 12:33 AM

Voltaire, it's on the way. George

**4V50 Gary** · May 20, 2000, 03:50 AM

After ensuring that the revolver is unloaded, begin by removing the grip panels. Cock the revolver and insert the take down pin into the hammer strut and capture the hammer spring in a compressed state. Remove the hammer strut assembly.

Remove the hammer pivot pin (it's the tombstone shaped piece on the right side of the frame) frame and withdraw the hammer from the frame. Using the hammer strut or a screwdriver, depress the takedown pin located in the trigger guard assembly. This allows you to disengage the trigger guard assembly and pivot it down and out.

Sisco · May 20, 2000, 05:32 PM

I went with the 8lb trigger return and the 10lb hammer spring. I experienced light strikes and misfires until I switched to Winchester primers - the CCI's were just too hard, haven't had a problem since. The spring change dropped the single action pull from 4.5 to 3 lbs.

**4V50 Gary** · May 20, 2000, 06:11 PM

Gee, I didn't mention the removal of the cylinder, did I? If somebody will send me a gazillon millon billon bucks, I'll share this dark secret.

May 19, 2000, 06:25 PM	#1
Voltaire Member Join Date: February 25, 2000 Posts: 30	I have a Wolff spring-kit for my GP-100 that contains several hammer-return and trigger springs. I'd like to lighten the revolver's trigger pull by installing one of the lighter trigger-springs, but I can't figure out how to access the innards of the trigger assembly. I bought the weapon used, and I don't have the owner's manual to guide me through the process. Can anyone help? Thanks.

May 19, 2000, 07:24 PM	#2
mowgli Member Join Date: May 7, 2000 Posts: 17	After lurking awhile, I guess I'll jump in. This is not the exact answer to the question, but: This from the Ruger website, FREE instruction manuals for all Ruger firearms are available free upon request. Please write: Sturm, Ruger & Company; Lacey Place; Southport, CT 06490. Please specify model for which you require a manual. I have been having the same question because I am about to do the same thing with a Taurus. After some research, I decided to get a copy of Gunsmithing : Pistols & Revolvers by Patrick Sweeney. Seems reasonable for $20 compared to the amount of learning I stand to get. If anyone has an opinion about this, please. If this doesn't get moved to The Smithy forum, You may want to ask there. It seems here is a massive amount of wisdom there. [This message has been edited by mowgli (edited May 19, 2000).]

May 19, 2000, 11:49 PM	#3
Mal H Staff Join Date: March 20, 1999 Location: Somewhere in the woods of Northern Virginia Posts: 17,067	mowgli's right, you might get a better answer from our resident Smithy(s). Moving this over there....

May 20, 2000, 12:33 AM	#4
George Stringer Staff Alumnus Join Date: October 12, 1998 Location: Earlington KY Posts: 2,299	Voltaire, it's on the way. George

May 20, 2000, 03:50 AM	#5
4V50 Gary Staff Join Date: November 2, 1998 Location: Colorado Posts: 22,306	After ensuring that the revolver is unloaded, begin by removing the grip panels. Cock the revolver and insert the take down pin into the hammer strut and capture the hammer spring in a compressed state. Remove the hammer strut assembly. Remove the hammer pivot pin (it's the tombstone shaped piece on the right side of the frame) frame and withdraw the hammer from the frame. Using the hammer strut or a screwdriver, depress the takedown pin located in the trigger guard assembly. This allows you to disengage the trigger guard assembly and pivot it down and out.

May 20, 2000, 05:32 PM	#6
Sisco Senior Member Join Date: March 25, 1999 Location: KS Posts: 1,558	I went with the 8lb trigger return and the 10lb hammer spring. I experienced light strikes and misfires until I switched to Winchester primers - the CCI's were just too hard, haven't had a problem since. The spring change dropped the single action pull from 4.5 to 3 lbs.

May 20, 2000, 06:11 PM	#7
4V50 Gary Staff Join Date: November 2, 1998 Location: Colorado Posts: 22,306	Gee, I didn't mention the removal of the cylinder, did I? If somebody will send me a gazillon millon billon bucks, I'll share this dark secret.