M1 Garand reloading

SquirrelNuts · September 19, 2002, 05:41 PM

I have never reloaded, but will get started soon. I bought some 30-06 150 gr FMJ ammo from Georgia Arms, and I have shot all of that off. I saved all the brass for reloading, but my M1 Garand appears to shave off brass from the back of the cartridge. Is this brass reloadable? It also appears to warp part of the extractor ring. The scratches are not large and the warping is very small, but it might make a big difference. If this brass is not suitable for my M1 Garand, will it still work in a Remington 700?

I would like to buy some brass, but it seems that putting together a combination is an art, and not a science. I found a great deal on new Remington brass, is this worthwhile? Should I stay with Lake City (LC headstamps)?

-SquirrelNuts

Fred S · September 19, 2002, 07:09 PM

Squirrelnuts:

I reload for the Garand, I have four of them to feed. I've mixed all my brass togehter (HXP, LC and commerical) and it does not seem to affect performance at all.

You might want to have your extractor checked. I've not seen what you sdescribe happening on nay Garand.

The scratches should not be a problem if they are not weaking the case wall. The warping may cause feed problems.

Take your M-1 to the Garand doctor and have it checked.

SquirrelNuts · September 20, 2002, 12:11 AM

Here are some pics of the brass:

-SquirrelNuts

C.R.Sam · September 20, 2002, 01:31 AM

Don't sweat the dings.
Check headspace.
See response to same Q in Art of the Rifle.

Sam

foghornl · September 20, 2002, 10:08 AM

Just a W.A.G.

Headsdpace check and extractor tune/polish. Brass doesn't appear too beat up, but if you happened to load the most dinged one so that the extractor caught on the exact same spot....could be an issue

If you are going to 'roll your own' ammo, just a couple of caveats

NO bullets heavier than 180, and no very slow powders. Those things will cause way too much pressure at the gas port/trap, and you WILL damage the op-rod.

{lesson personally learned the hard way...A 'buddy' convinced me that the 200 Gr. "bronze point" handload was OK in my M-1. 5 rounds later, M-1 no longer functioned}

Khornet · September 20, 2002, 11:31 AM

about stripping the bolt, inserting it in the rifle without op rod, and then putting a sized, empt case in the chamber. Then you raise the butt end just enough to cause the bolt to slide home. If it won't rotate fully into battery, case not sized enough (shoulder needs to be pushed back some). If it does go into battery, and there is much wiggle or play in the bolt, case was sized too much (sholder pushed back too far).

Anybody ever try this? I did, and that was how I set up my FL die for my M1.

Southla1 · September 20, 2002, 01:25 PM

I have heard (and done) the same thing Khornet, plus I use the Forster case gauge. Actually I use the gauge as the primary and the rifle cnamber as a final check. Never had a problem.

September 19, 2002, 05:41 PM	#1
SquirrelNuts Senior Member Join Date: July 26, 2002 Location: Marietta, GA-home of the Big Chicken Posts: 247	M1 Garand reloading I have never reloaded, but will get started soon. I bought some 30-06 150 gr FMJ ammo from Georgia Arms, and I have shot all of that off. I saved all the brass for reloading, but my M1 Garand appears to shave off brass from the back of the cartridge. Is this brass reloadable? It also appears to warp part of the extractor ring. The scratches are not large and the warping is very small, but it might make a big difference. If this brass is not suitable for my M1 Garand, will it still work in a Remington 700? I would like to buy some brass, but it seems that putting together a combination is an art, and not a science. I found a great deal on new Remington brass, is this worthwhile? Should I stay with Lake City (LC headstamps)? -SquirrelNuts

September 20, 2002, 11:31 AM	#6
Khornet Senior Member Join Date: December 11, 2001 Location: NH Posts: 585	I read somewhere about stripping the bolt, inserting it in the rifle without op rod, and then putting a sized, empt case in the chamber. Then you raise the butt end just enough to cause the bolt to slide home. If it won't rotate fully into battery, case not sized enough (shoulder needs to be pushed back some). If it does go into battery, and there is much wiggle or play in the bolt, case was sized too much (sholder pushed back too far). Anybody ever try this? I did, and that was how I set up my FL die for my M1.

September 19, 2002, 07:09 PM	#2
Fred S Senior Member Join Date: July 3, 1999 Location: New Baltimore, MI Posts: 569	Squirrelnuts: I reload for the Garand, I have four of them to feed. I've mixed all my brass togehter (HXP, LC and commerical) and it does not seem to affect performance at all. You might want to have your extractor checked. I've not seen what you sdescribe happening on nay Garand. The scratches should not be a problem if they are not weaking the case wall. The warping may cause feed problems. Take your M-1 to the Garand doctor and have it checked.

September 20, 2002, 12:11 AM	#3
SquirrelNuts Senior Member Join Date: July 26, 2002 Location: Marietta, GA-home of the Big Chicken Posts: 247	Here are some pics of the brass: -SquirrelNuts

September 20, 2002, 01:31 AM	#4
C.R.Sam Senior Member Join Date: October 30, 1999 Location: Dewey, AZ Posts: 12,858	Don't sweat the dings. Check headspace. See response to same Q in Art of the Rifle. Sam

September 20, 2002, 10:08 AM	#5
foghornl Senior Member Join Date: March 18, 2002 Location: Ohio Posts: 1,354	Just a W.A.G. Headsdpace check and extractor tune/polish. Brass doesn't appear too beat up, but if you happened to load the most dinged one so that the extractor caught on the exact same spot....could be an issue If you are going to 'roll your own' ammo, just a couple of caveats NO bullets heavier than 180, and no very slow powders. Those things will cause way too much pressure at the gas port/trap, and you WILL damage the op-rod. {lesson personally learned the hard way...A 'buddy' convinced me that the 200 Gr. "bronze point" handload was OK in my M-1. 5 rounds later, M-1 no longer functioned}

September 20, 2002, 01:25 PM	#7
Southla1 Member In Memoriam Join Date: March 19, 2000 Location: Jeanerette, La. Near the Posts: 1,999	I have heard (and done) the same thing Khornet, plus I use the Forster case gauge. Actually I use the gauge as the primary and the rifle cnamber as a final check. Never had a problem.