Break Free CLP vs Hoppe's #9

Guy B. Meredith · July 20, 2002, 07:36 PM

What are your experiences with the above?

I decided to try Break Free CLP rather than the time honored Hoppe's #9 for my revolvers to see whether it is a good alternative with less heady aroma and skin drying qualities. I had tried the M71 or whatever soap in the white bottle, but found it left a patina on all my stainless steel and the jury is still out on ease of cleaning, etc.

Well I wish someone had warned me. That CLP feels like I am using vegetable oil to clean the gun. It unexpectedly ooozed out vs spraying out. The aroma may be somewhat less penetrating and therefore gain points with my wife and it did seem to clean well enough. One concern, though, is whether it might leave crud in the lockwork. With Hoppe's I watch a satisfying flow of murky crud from 600 or so rounds drain from the revolver onto the bench. With CLP the crud hangs around in the viscous fluid and needs to be wiped away. What happens to the revolver's interior mechanism? I do not take off the side plate or crane for standard cleaning.

Jerry Stordahl · July 20, 2002, 08:30 PM

Guy: Use the Hoppe's #9 to clean all the fouling, then the Breakfree CLP for finish cleaning and corrosion protection. I read something quite awhile ago on various tests for corrosion protection. Breakfree CLP was tops along with another brand that escapes me right now.

Blue Duck357 · July 20, 2002, 09:33 PM

Quote:

Well I wish someone had warned me.

I tried!!

http://www.thefiringline.com/forums/...ght=Break+Free

J Miller · July 20, 2002, 09:53 PM

Guy B. Meredith,
I had the exact same experiance with CLP.
I tried to get a small ammount on my Ruger 22 Auto but it came blasting out all at once and made a big mess.
I'm still wiping that ouzing crap out of the Ruger.
I went to spraying the CLP on a soft cloth and using it as an after cleaner wipe.
And if I want to lube something I spray some in a tray and dip a tooth pic or cotton swab in it, then lubricate the item.

I won't buy it again.

chaim · July 21, 2002, 12:46 AM

I bought a small .68oz bottle meant for carrying in your range bag and use that. I have no problem with applying the right amount. I use the larger bottle to refill the smaller one (I can see how the larger bottle could cause you to apply too much at a time).

The stuff seems to work pretty good, especially if you don't wait until the gun is really gunked up to clean it. Hard to beat a product that lubes the gun (in an auto I still use RemOil but for a revolver I think this stuff works well), protects it and cleans it. Also, I've found that it is easier to clean a gun later that has already had the Breakfree CLP used on it.

Blue Duck357 · July 21, 2002, 01:18 AM

chaim, might be wrong but I think they are refering to the "aerosol" version of breakfree (it comes both ways). Your expecting a little squirt and this "glob" of foam drops out the spout.

Of course if your talking about putting this stuff in a regular bottle I'll do my best Rossana Rossana Danna and say "Nevermind"

C.R.Sam · July 21, 2002, 02:18 AM

Hoppe's for cleaning
Break Free for lube and corrosion control.
Easy.

Sam

stans · July 21, 2002, 08:55 AM

Once again, C.R. Sam is right and has beaten me to the punch.

Edward429451 · July 21, 2002, 09:48 AM

Hate to be redundant but...Hoppes for 1st stage cleaning, CLP to finish & lube. (Never buy the aerosol and do shake well)

VictorLouis · July 21, 2002, 12:40 PM

I purchased a small bottle with a steel needle tip applicator. That solved the over-dispensing problem I had with the larger bottle's flip-spout. I feel that this stuff does everything that #9 can do with less odor and greasy residue. The 'L' and 'P' properties are just an added bonus.

I really think it beats BF as a protectant. Properly applied and left to dry, it's just like a good wax job. As a lube, I just don't know. There's still some satisfaction I get with squirting some Wilson's Ultima down into the lockworks.

asleepinTucson · July 21, 2002, 06:46 PM

Hoppes for gross cleaning followed by blowing out the hoppes with a "canned Air" device (I use gust buster) Then breakfree liquid in a needle nose bottle for coating and then drying the barrel. Then G-Lube from glockmeister for liquid lubing ( ejector rod, cylinder, crane , etc..) and then TW25B white moly grease for the stick to areas where you don't want run off. Good combo taught to me by the armorer. Works for my revolvers and Semi autos.

I put hoppes in a needle valve oiler bottle and can put it exactly where I want it and then blow out all the crud with the canned air.

DMK · July 24, 2002, 08:54 AM

An old toothbrusk makes a great CLP applicator for either bottle or spray can. CLP iss fluid enough to soak into the nooks and crannys after brushing on.

I agree with the compressed air advice also. After bore cleaner, I blow out the excess, then lube with CLP then blow off the excess, then wipe down with a rag that I only use for CLP. That rag, perpetually damp with CLP makes a nice wipe for when handling the guns later.

tonyz · July 25, 2002, 09:51 AM

As stated above Breakfree is a excellent lube and protector, and works great as a cleaner in certain applications. The spay container doesn't work very well. I buy the 4oz Bottles of the liquid and they last a long time.

Hoppes #9 is a fantastic solvent, great as a general overall cleaner.
__________________________________________________
Here is one that a friend of mine uses. I tried some last weekend and really liked it.

Firepower FP-10
Firepower FP-10 Info site

Tony Z

BJordan71 · July 25, 2002, 10:11 AM

Hoppe's, #9 and copper solvent, CLP, spray and squirt-bottle, Rem-oil, whatever I happen to grab first. I'm mixing up a batch of Ed's Red this weekend 'cause I'm still trying stuff to see what, if any, my firearms like best. No decision yet.

Hey Blue duck, right performer, wrong character, it was Emily Litella that said "nevermind".

Stay safe.

drcohen · July 25, 2002, 08:23 PM

Just to correct the earlier reference of Mil-Comm Products' TW-25B. it is not a moly, but it is white. it is PTFE based (like a Teflon).

Too many experts in the industry concur that it is the better weapons lubricant protectant on the market, bar none.

bluepress.com and bestdefense.com have it.

straightShot · July 25, 2002, 09:28 PM

I use Hoppe's to clean, and BreakFree to lube. When I use the BreakFree, however, I'm careful not to get it on my fingers. It stinks.

Good luck and shoot straight!

Gunrnr · July 27, 2002, 08:53 PM

Thx for all the info on BreakFree, I think I'll put it on my "Must Miss" list.

Does anyone have an opinion on "Butch's Bore Clean"? I'm just an ole'Fart who's never used anything but #9 and military bore cleaner for all these yrs...oh, and "Ed's Red" a vile concoction my buddy put together which would rip the guts out of an Abrams Tank!

RWK · July 28, 2002, 07:37 AM

Two cautions re Hoppes (although I use it and trust it on many firearms):
1) For nickel alloy finished firearms, Hoppes can undermine the copper base-surface, if there are any cracks or chips in the nickel finish. This can lead to disintegration of the nickel finish.
2) Sig's senior gunsmith suggested (in a telephone call a few years ago) that Hoppes not be used for cleaning. Although many of us use Hoppes extensively, he explained that it is very hard on the "blue" anodized finish on Sig P series aluminum frames/receivers.

Gunrnr · July 28, 2002, 09:57 PM

Thx to RWK for that insight. I'd never heard about danger to imperfect nickle finishes. As far as the Sig caution, I'd heard that but have not experienced it, nor have I heard of it from any customers.

Goes to show ya that even us ole'Farts can learn a few things every now & again!

BPNovum · July 29, 2002, 12:03 AM

Hey guys,

I watch the forums from time to time. We post replies to offer technical assistance. If there is anything we can help with, please feel free to drop me an e-mail or post a note here.

DenVas · July 30, 2002, 04:10 PM

Has anyone tried the new Blue Wonder Gun Cleaner yet? I ran across the company, Novum Solutions, at the 2002 SHOT show and decided to give their gun cleaner a try. Their gun bluing solution won the best of the show award in it's category. A bit of background, I shoot between 7,000 and 12,000 rounds a year in varmint shooting, competition or product evaluation for my articles. Therefore, I need a cleaning solution that not only works quickly but one that actually works. I have also been concerned about the health risks of some chemicals used in most of the products that are or have been on the market. What I found out is that not only does Blue Wonder work as advertised but it is also biodegradable. I have a group of six testers involved in the process of testing this new gun cleaner with me. The first is a custom rifle smith, the second is a custom shotgun smith, the third is a member of the US Marine Corps Shooting team, the fourth is a metallurgist, the fifth is a state champion in service pistol competition and the sixth team member is a nationally recognized blackpowder competitor. During our testing we each fired between 300 to 2000 rounds through various types of firearms while shooting at everything from paper and metallic targets, to rabbits, varmints, deer, elk, etc. The calibers of the firearms involved range in size from .22 to .458 in cartridge firearms and .36 to .62 in black powder firearms, in both pistols and rifles. It goes without saying, that with this level of shooting we usually spend a good bit of time cleaning our firearms. Each of my team members agree that so far our testing of Blue Wonder has produced excellent results. It made the process of removing the plastic sabot residue from black powder shooting, as well as the lead and copper oxide fouling out of our barrels, whether muzzleloaders or cartridge guns, much easier and less time consuming. A greenish blue tint on our cleaning patches was a visual indication that proved that Blue Wonder had removed of all unwanted ingredients from the metal surfaces of our firearms. This greenish blue tint is the result of the Cleaner being applied to the lead and copper oxide fouling created by the discharge of the firearm. It breaks them down into a harmless residue or chemical composition that can be easily removed. The tests that we conducted have shown that the cleaner not only removes any fouling residue that has been produced during the firing process, but it also strips all of the oils out of the metal of your firearms. It is because of this complete stripping action that you must re-oil your firearm inside and out prior to storing it so that you can insure its protection from the elements. For prolonged storage, a good coating of grease would be better for this purpose. If any of the rest of you have a chance to try this product please let me know what you think. I am always looking for additional information on new products.

July 20, 2002, 07:36 PM	#1
Guy B. Meredith Senior Member Join Date: August 29, 1999 Location: Salem, Oregon Posts: 1,581	Break Free CLP vs Hoppe's #9 What are your experiences with the above? I decided to try Break Free CLP rather than the time honored Hoppe's #9 for my revolvers to see whether it is a good alternative with less heady aroma and skin drying qualities. I had tried the M71 or whatever soap in the white bottle, but found it left a patina on all my stainless steel and the jury is still out on ease of cleaning, etc. Well I wish someone had warned me. That CLP feels like I am using vegetable oil to clean the gun. It unexpectedly ooozed out vs spraying out. The aroma may be somewhat less penetrating and therefore gain points with my wife and it did seem to clean well enough. One concern, though, is whether it might leave crud in the lockwork. With Hoppe's I watch a satisfying flow of murky crud from 600 or so rounds drain from the revolver onto the bench. With CLP the crud hangs around in the viscous fluid and needs to be wiped away. What happens to the revolver's interior mechanism? I do not take off the side plate or crane for standard cleaning.

July 20, 2002, 09:53 PM	#4
J Miller Member Join Date: July 16, 2002 Location: IL Posts: 43	Guy B. Meredith, I had the exact same experiance with CLP. I tried to get a small ammount on my Ruger 22 Auto but it came blasting out all at once and made a big mess. I'm still wiping that ouzing crap out of the Ruger. I went to spraying the CLP on a soft cloth and using it as an after cleaner wipe. And if I want to lube something I spray some in a tray and dip a tooth pic or cotton swab in it, then lubricate the item. I won't buy it again. __________________ Really the only time a thing has value is when it is being used. It costs money when you buy it, it is worth money when you sell it, but it only has value when you use it.

July 21, 2002, 12:40 PM	#10
VictorLouis Senior Member Join Date: January 12, 2000 Location: Arizona Posts: 2,298	Eezox impresses me more with each use. I purchased a small bottle with a steel needle tip applicator. That solved the over-dispensing problem I had with the larger bottle's flip-spout. I feel that this stuff does everything that #9 can do with less odor and greasy residue. The 'L' and 'P' properties are just an added bonus. I really think it beats BF as a protectant. Properly applied and left to dry, it's just like a good wax job. As a lube, I just don't know. There's still some satisfaction I get with squirting some Wilson's Ultima down into the lockworks.

July 24, 2002, 08:54 AM	#12
DMK Senior Member Join Date: November 18, 2001 Location: Over the hills and far, far away Posts: 2,686	An old toothbrusk makes a great CLP applicator for either bottle or spray can. CLP iss fluid enough to soak into the nooks and crannys after brushing on. I agree with the compressed air advice also. After bore cleaner, I blow out the excess, then lube with CLP then blow off the excess, then wipe down with a rag that I only use for CLP. That rag, perpetually damp with CLP makes a nice wipe for when handling the guns later. __________________ DMK - Homeland Security begins at home: Support your Second Amendment. - Remember to support friends who support us: http://www.gunowners.org/ - http://www.nra.org/ http://www.jpfo.org/ - http://keepandbeararms.com/ http://www.2asisters.org/ http://www.grnc.org/ - http://www.ncrpa.org/

July 25, 2002, 09:51 AM	#13
tonyz Senior Member Join Date: January 29, 2000 Location: Wa Posts: 922	As stated above Breakfree is a excellent lube and protector, and works great as a cleaner in certain applications. The spay container doesn't work very well. I buy the 4oz Bottles of the liquid and they last a long time. Hoppes #9 is a fantastic solvent, great as a general overall cleaner. __________________________________________________ Here is one that a friend of mine uses. I tried some last weekend and really liked it. Firepower FP-10 Firepower FP-10 Info site Tony Z __________________ Nothing Ventured Nothing Gained

July 20, 2002, 08:30 PM	#2
Jerry Stordahl Member Join Date: July 9, 2000 Location: Halstad, MN USA Posts: 96	Guy: Use the Hoppe's #9 to clean all the fouling, then the Breakfree CLP for finish cleaning and corrosion protection. I read something quite awhile ago on various tests for corrosion protection. Breakfree CLP was tops along with another brand that escapes me right now.

July 21, 2002, 12:46 AM	#5
chaim Senior Member Join Date: December 11, 2001 Location: Maryland Posts: 1,827	I bought a small .68oz bottle meant for carrying in your range bag and use that. I have no problem with applying the right amount. I use the larger bottle to refill the smaller one (I can see how the larger bottle could cause you to apply too much at a time). The stuff seems to work pretty good, especially if you don't wait until the gun is really gunked up to clean it. Hard to beat a product that lubes the gun (in an auto I still use RemOil but for a revolver I think this stuff works well), protects it and cleans it. Also, I've found that it is easier to clean a gun later that has already had the Breakfree CLP used on it.

July 21, 2002, 01:18 AM	#6
Blue Duck357 Senior Member Join Date: October 6, 2000 Posts: 1,460	chaim, might be wrong but I think they are refering to the "aerosol" version of breakfree (it comes both ways). Your expecting a little squirt and this "glob" of foam drops out the spout. Of course if your talking about putting this stuff in a regular bottle I'll do my best Rossana Rossana Danna and say "Nevermind"

July 21, 2002, 02:18 AM	#7
C.R.Sam Senior Member Join Date: October 29, 1999 Location: Dewey, AZ Posts: 12,858	Hoppe's for cleaning Break Free for lube and corrosion control. Easy. Sam

July 21, 2002, 08:55 AM	#8
stans Senior Member Join Date: November 9, 2001 Location: Virginia, USA Posts: 838	Once again, C.R. Sam is right and has beaten me to the punch.

July 21, 2002, 09:48 AM	#9
Edward429451 Junior member Join Date: November 12, 2000 Location: Colorado Springs, Colorado Posts: 9,494	Hate to be redundant but...Hoppes for 1st stage cleaning, CLP to finish & lube. (Never buy the aerosol and do shake well)

July 21, 2002, 06:46 PM	#11
asleepinTucson Senior Member Join Date: February 3, 2002 Location: Hampton Roads, VA Posts: 107	Hoppes for gross cleaning followed by blowing out the hoppes with a "canned Air" device (I use gust buster) Then breakfree liquid in a needle nose bottle for coating and then drying the barrel. Then G-Lube from glockmeister for liquid lubing ( ejector rod, cylinder, crane , etc..) and then TW25B white moly grease for the stick to areas where you don't want run off. Good combo taught to me by the armorer. Works for my revolvers and Semi autos. I put hoppes in a needle valve oiler bottle and can put it exactly where I want it and then blow out all the crud with the canned air.

July 25, 2002, 10:11 AM	#14
BJordan71 Senior Member Join Date: December 12, 2001 Location: Heart of Georgia Posts: 110	Hoppe's, #9 and copper solvent, CLP, spray and squirt-bottle, Rem-oil, whatever I happen to grab first. I'm mixing up a batch of Ed's Red this weekend 'cause I'm still trying stuff to see what, if any, my firearms like best. No decision yet. Hey Blue duck, right performer, wrong character, it was Emily Litella that said "nevermind". Stay safe. __________________ Boy, you're about as useful as a Glock revolver. TFL#12525

July 25, 2002, 08:23 PM	#15
drcohen Member Join Date: February 22, 2001 Location: NJ Posts: 58	Just to correct the earlier reference of Mil-Comm Products' TW-25B. it is not a moly, but it is white. it is PTFE based (like a Teflon). Too many experts in the industry concur that it is the better weapons lubricant protectant on the market, bar none. bluepress.com and bestdefense.com have it.

July 25, 2002, 09:28 PM	#16
straightShot Senior Member Join Date: July 2, 2000 Location: MI, USA Posts: 655	I use Hoppe's to clean, and BreakFree to lube. When I use the BreakFree, however, I'm careful not to get it on my fingers. It stinks. Good luck and shoot straight! __________________ Take a kid shooting.

July 27, 2002, 08:53 PM	#17
Gunrnr Member Join Date: April 8, 2000 Location: Upwind of Albuquerque, NM USA Posts: 81	Thx for all the info on BreakFree, I think I'll put it on my "Must Miss" list. Does anyone have an opinion on "Butch's Bore Clean"? I'm just an ole'Fart who's never used anything but #9 and military bore cleaner for all these yrs...oh, and "Ed's Red" a vile concoction my buddy put together which would rip the guts out of an Abrams Tank! __________________ "Political Correctness is a doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical, liberal minority, and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a -CENSORED--CENSORED--CENSORED--CENSORED- by the clean end." http://nationalgunforum.com/index.php

July 28, 2002, 07:37 AM	#18
RWK Senior Member Join Date: August 20, 1999 Location: Occupied Virginia Posts: 2,777	Two cautions re Hoppes (although I use it and trust it on many firearms): 1) For nickel alloy finished firearms, Hoppes can undermine the copper base-surface, if there are any cracks or chips in the nickel finish. This can lead to disintegration of the nickel finish. 2) Sig's senior gunsmith suggested (in a telephone call a few years ago) that Hoppes not be used for cleaning. Although many of us use Hoppes extensively, he explained that it is very hard on the "blue" anodized finish on Sig P series aluminum frames/receivers. __________________ __________________ Μολών λαβέ!

July 28, 2002, 09:57 PM	#19
Gunrnr Member Join Date: April 8, 2000 Location: Upwind of Albuquerque, NM USA Posts: 81	Thx to RWK for that insight. I'd never heard about danger to imperfect nickle finishes. As far as the Sig caution, I'd heard that but have not experienced it, nor have I heard of it from any customers. Goes to show ya that even us ole'Farts can learn a few things every now & again! __________________ "Political Correctness is a doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical, liberal minority, and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a -CENSORED--CENSORED--CENSORED--CENSORED- by the clean end." http://nationalgunforum.com/index.php

July 29, 2002, 12:03 AM	#20
BPNovum Member Join Date: July 24, 2002 Posts: 90	need any help? Hey guys, I watch the forums from time to time. We post replies to offer technical assistance. If there is anything we can help with, please feel free to drop me an e-mail or post a note here. __________________ Let's Blue Bob Price Blue Wonder Gun Care Products www.BlueWonder.us [email protected]

July 30, 2002, 04:10 PM	#21
DenVas Junior Member Join Date: July 29, 1999 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 4	Have you tried Blue Wonder Yet? Has anyone tried the new Blue Wonder Gun Cleaner yet? I ran across the company, Novum Solutions, at the 2002 SHOT show and decided to give their gun cleaner a try. Their gun bluing solution won the best of the show award in it's category. A bit of background, I shoot between 7,000 and 12,000 rounds a year in varmint shooting, competition or product evaluation for my articles. Therefore, I need a cleaning solution that not only works quickly but one that actually works. I have also been concerned about the health risks of some chemicals used in most of the products that are or have been on the market. What I found out is that not only does Blue Wonder work as advertised but it is also biodegradable. I have a group of six testers involved in the process of testing this new gun cleaner with me. The first is a custom rifle smith, the second is a custom shotgun smith, the third is a member of the US Marine Corps Shooting team, the fourth is a metallurgist, the fifth is a state champion in service pistol competition and the sixth team member is a nationally recognized blackpowder competitor. During our testing we each fired between 300 to 2000 rounds through various types of firearms while shooting at everything from paper and metallic targets, to rabbits, varmints, deer, elk, etc. The calibers of the firearms involved range in size from .22 to .458 in cartridge firearms and .36 to .62 in black powder firearms, in both pistols and rifles. It goes without saying, that with this level of shooting we usually spend a good bit of time cleaning our firearms. Each of my team members agree that so far our testing of Blue Wonder has produced excellent results. It made the process of removing the plastic sabot residue from black powder shooting, as well as the lead and copper oxide fouling out of our barrels, whether muzzleloaders or cartridge guns, much easier and less time consuming. A greenish blue tint on our cleaning patches was a visual indication that proved that Blue Wonder had removed of all unwanted ingredients from the metal surfaces of our firearms. This greenish blue tint is the result of the Cleaner being applied to the lead and copper oxide fouling created by the discharge of the firearm. It breaks them down into a harmless residue or chemical composition that can be easily removed. The tests that we conducted have shown that the cleaner not only removes any fouling residue that has been produced during the firing process, but it also strips all of the oils out of the metal of your firearms. It is because of this complete stripping action that you must re-oil your firearm inside and out prior to storing it so that you can insure its protection from the elements. For prolonged storage, a good coating of grease would be better for this purpose. If any of the rest of you have a chance to try this product please let me know what you think. I am always looking for additional information on new products. __________________ Denvas Keep your powder dry and hang on to your topknot!

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