Jp trigger in a AR15 install question

Elkslayer · March 17, 2002, 09:09 PM

I am installing a single stage JP trigger. I have gotten to the point where I must remove a portion off of the "pad" (that part of the trigger which goes under the safety)for the safety to function.

If any of you have done this, how much did you end up having to remove and what did you use to remove it with? This must be hardened steel, my files won't cut it and I am afriad to use a grinding wheel on my Dremel tool for fear of ruining the trigger!

Keith J · March 18, 2002, 01:22 PM

The only thing its good for is polishing and then only with felt wheels.

Your pad is too thick based on one of two items, namely the safety (selector) lever drum or the axes of the trigger pin and safety lever holes are not to print.

I would recommend modification of the safety drum where it contacts the pad. These are cheap parts and most likely, the source of the problem.

Use a sharpening stone, the pocket-sized aluminum oxide types. You should be able to pick one up for next to nothing. Look in the woodworking speciality store for a "slip" used to sharpen woodworking gouges.

Diamond files are another option. You could even use an old diamond nail file your wife/significant other is soon to throw away.

Again, modify the safety, not the trigger! Safety levers are dirt cheap. JP triggers are NOT!

Dr Heckel · March 19, 2002, 05:45 PM

Elkslayer-
Check out this link, theres advice waiting to be given.
http://glocktalk.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=69469

John Bettendorf · March 20, 2002, 01:02 AM

"Ensure" you have followed the instructions that came with
the trigger kit.

And that you are not using too much preset with the
rear set screw.

I useally clearance .025 on the mill , with the single leg
design you could use a belt sander or your dremmel.

Go very slow , cut a little-test fit, cut a little test fit,
the safety selector should have a zero clearance
fit to the trigger on safe"the trigger must not move".

Call JP , Im sure they will answer any questions you have.

Best Luck JB

Keith J · March 21, 2002, 11:12 AM

I followed the link and was shocked....I have installed over 20 JP's, all of them setup with stock springs for a DCM/CMP legal 4.5 minimum pull weight.

I have seen many poor-quality MIM safety levers that were oversize on the safety lug when a JP trigger was installed. I set the engagement first to make for a long-lasting trigger, then adjust the spring set to set the weight. Lastly, I adjust the safety if required to create a "hard" engagement. I found good parts like Rock River lowers and Quality Parts internals don't require safety cam modifications. Its the no-name junk out there that often is out of specification.

March 17, 2002, 09:09 PM	#1
Elkslayer Senior Member Join Date: January 23, 2002 Location: Wyoming Posts: 132	Jp trigger in a AR15 install question I am installing a single stage JP trigger. I have gotten to the point where I must remove a portion off of the "pad" (that part of the trigger which goes under the safety)for the safety to function. If any of you have done this, how much did you end up having to remove and what did you use to remove it with? This must be hardened steel, my files won't cut it and I am afriad to use a grinding wheel on my Dremel tool for fear of ruining the trigger!

March 18, 2002, 01:22 PM	#2
Keith J Senior Member Join Date: December 15, 2000 Posts: 469	Drop the Dremel! The only thing its good for is polishing and then only with felt wheels. Your pad is too thick based on one of two items, namely the safety (selector) lever drum or the axes of the trigger pin and safety lever holes are not to print. I would recommend modification of the safety drum where it contacts the pad. These are cheap parts and most likely, the source of the problem. Use a sharpening stone, the pocket-sized aluminum oxide types. You should be able to pick one up for next to nothing. Look in the woodworking speciality store for a "slip" used to sharpen woodworking gouges. Diamond files are another option. You could even use an old diamond nail file your wife/significant other is soon to throw away. Again, modify the safety, not the trigger! Safety levers are dirt cheap. JP triggers are NOT!

March 20, 2002, 01:02 AM	#4
John Bettendorf Member Join Date: February 17, 2002 Posts: 25	elkslayer "Ensure" you have followed the instructions that came with the trigger kit. And that you are not using too much preset with the rear set screw. I useally clearance .025 on the mill , with the single leg design you could use a belt sander or your dremmel. Go very slow , cut a little-test fit, cut a little test fit, the safety selector should have a zero clearance fit to the trigger on safe"the trigger must not move". Call JP , Im sure they will answer any questions you have. Best Luck JB

March 21, 2002, 11:12 AM	#5
Keith J Senior Member Join Date: December 15, 2000 Posts: 469	Experts? I followed the link and was shocked....I have installed over 20 JP's, all of them setup with stock springs for a DCM/CMP legal 4.5 minimum pull weight. I have seen many poor-quality MIM safety levers that were oversize on the safety lug when a JP trigger was installed. I set the engagement first to make for a long-lasting trigger, then adjust the spring set to set the weight. Lastly, I adjust the safety if required to create a "hard" engagement. I found good parts like Rock River lowers and Quality Parts internals don't require safety cam modifications. Its the no-name junk out there that often is out of specification.

March 19, 2002, 05:45 PM	#3
Dr Heckel Senior Member Join Date: May 28, 2001 Location: Timbuktu Posts: 229	Elkslayer- Check out this link, theres advice waiting to be given. http://glocktalk.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=69469