Quick Tip: Easy Way to Remove Surface Rust from Your Firearm (Video)

[GorillaGunworks]

Hey folks,

Just wanted to share a quick video I put together over on my YouTube channel The Hobby Gunsmith — it shows an easy and safe way to remove surface rust from a firearm using nothing more than 0000 steel wool and a bit of gun oil.

A lot of us have run into rust issues, especially on older guns or those that haven’t been out of the safe in a while. This method has worked really well for me over the years — no harsh chemicals, no special tools, just a simple, no-nonsense solution.

https://youtu.be/eOG0LL68POw?si=B6KKVoShLJZO4Y44

If you get a chance to watch, I’d really appreciate your thoughts — and if you have your own go-to method for rust removal or firearm maintenance, I’d love to hear it.

Thanks for taking the time, and shoot safe!
– The Hobby Gunsmith

[Bill DeShivs]

You asked- so here it is:

First- the Ballester Molina is not a clone of a Colt 1911. It's a copy of a Star design.

Second- what you did in the video is make a slurry of oil and iron oxide (rust.) Iron oxide is an abrasive. Polishing compounds are made from it.

Steel wool should be used dry, and the removed rust should be shaken/blown off frequently. Oil should be used afterwards.

Because you call yourself a hobby gunsmith does not mean you are one. Providing incorrect information is serious business. Because you didn't remove the bluing doesn't mean this technique will not remove it.

Now, I'll watch the other 2/3 of the video.

[Nathan]

Thanks. That’s an old technique. I’ve used it. It generally hasn’t worked great for me, but maybe you got to it early enough.

@bill, do you have a link to your video for comparison. Maybe it is a better way….not sure.

[GorillaGunworks]

Originally Posted by Bill DeShivs

You asked- so here it is:

First- the Ballester Molina is not a clone of a Colt 1911. It's a copy of a Star design.

Second- what you did in the video is make a slurry of oil and iron oxide (rust.) Iron oxide is an abrasive. Polishing compounds are made from it.

Steel wool should be used dry, and the removed rust should be shaken/blown off frequently. Oil should be used afterwards.

Because you call yourself a hobby gunsmith does not mean you are one. Providing incorrect information is serious business. Because you didn't remove the bluing doesn't mean this technique will not remove it.

Now, I'll watch the other 2/3 of the video.

Hi Bill, appreciate you chiming in. Let me clear a few things up:

1. Ballester-Molina:
You're not entirely wrong, but calling it just a copy of the Star ignores the fact it was designed to function like a 1911 and shares several interchangeable parts. It’s often referred to as a 1911 variant for good reason — especially by those familiar with its intended use in military settings.

2. On rust removal with 0000 steel wool and oil:
This is actually a well-known and commonly recommended method by both professional and hobbyist gunsmiths. The goal of using oil is to lubricate and suspend the rust particles (iron oxide), which reduces abrasion to the bluing, not increases it. 0000 steel wool is extremely fine and gentle — and when paired with oil, it allows for controlled rust removal with minimal risk to the finish. Using it dry, as you suggested, actually makes it more likely to scratch or remove bluing. This isn't just opinion — it's widely taught and practiced in gun restoration circles.

3. On credibility and respect:
I’ve been in this craft for years — the name The Hobby Gunsmith is about sharing knowledge and encouraging growth, not claiming mastery. I share techniques that have worked for me and many others. But part of being in any skilled trade is keeping things respectful. I wouldn’t criticize your work as a knife maker without knowing the details behind your craft — and I’d hope others would extend the same courtesy. We all start somewhere, and we all keep learning.

Feel free to finish the video and offer constructive input — I'm all ears when it's given in good faith. This space is about helping each other grow, not gatekeeping or tearing others down.

[Aguila Blanca]

Originally Posted by GorillaGunworks

1. Ballester-Molina:
You're not entirely wrong, but calling it just a copy of the Star ignores the fact it was designed to function like a 1911 and shares several interchangeable parts. It’s often referred to as a 1911 variant for good reason — especially by those familiar with its intended use in military settings.

The Ballester Molina does not function like a 1911. The lockwork is copied from Star -- for good reason. Argentina got tired of paying licensing fees to Colt to build clones of the 1911, so they came up with the Ballester Molina (and the earlier Ballester Rigaud) to get around that. The Ballester Molinas are referred to as 1911 variants only by people who don't know anything about 1911s. By spreading this incorrect characterization (and this is at least the second video in which you have done so) you are doing a disservice to the entire firearms community.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ballester%E2%80%93Molina

[GorillaGunworks]

Originally Posted by Aguila Blanca

The Ballester Molina does not function like a 1911. The lockwork is copied from Star -- for good reason. Argentina got tired of paying licensing fees to Colt to build clones of the 1911, so they came up with the Ballester Molina (and the earlier Ballester Rigaud) to get around that. The Ballester Molinas are referred to as 1911 variants only by people who don't know anything about 1911s. By spreading this incorrect characterization (and this is at least the second video in which you have done so) you are doing a disservice to the entire firearms community.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ballester%E2%80%93Molina

Hey Aguila Blanca,
Thanks for your passion for precision—this really is a fascinating piece of history! You’re absolutely correct that the Ballester-Molina’s fire-control group was derived from the Spanish Star design to sidestep Colt’s licensing fees. At the same time, there are several key areas where the Molina does share lineage or functional similarity with the 1911 platform:
1. Short-Recoil, Tilting-Block Locking
Like the 1911, the Ballester-Molina uses a Browning-style short-recoil system with a swinging link (albeit simplified) and a tilting barrel that locks into the slide breech. This basic operating principle is one of the defining characteristics of a 1911-style pistol.
2. Interchangeable External Components
The Ballester-Molina’s barrel bushing, recoil spring guide, and grips were deliberately made to the same dimensions as the Colt 1911’s, allowing armorers to utilize existing tooling and spare parts stocks.
3. Ergonomics and Controls
The safety lever, slide catch, and magazine release are positioned and actuated almost identically to the 1911’s “thumbs-up” safety system, making it intuitive for shooters transitioning between platforms.
4. Military Role and Concept
Though the lockwork differs, the ballistics, weight, and handling characteristics were intentionally calibrated to match the 1911 service pistol that Argentine troops trained on. In that sense, it functionally “filled” the same role.
You’re also right that the internal hammer, sear, and disconnector parts derive from Star’s proven design, and the earlier Ballester-Rigaud model established that lineage. Where I may have overstated the resemblance to the Colt 1911 was in downplaying those Star-derived fire-control components—kudos for catching that.
Regarding the Wikipedia link you mentioned: remember that Wikipedia is an open-editing platform, so it’s not infallible. Anyone could, theoretically, add something as outlandish as “the Ballester-Molina was fabricated on Mars by little aliens” until someone corrects it. I’d encourage you to consult primary sources or contemporary manuals to round out your understanding before calling out others in the community. We’re here to help and support each other, not to attack.
Bottom Line: The Ballester-Molina is best seen as a hybrid:
• Mechanically, it combines Star lockwork with Browning’s short-recoil barrel system.
• Externally and operationally, it aligns closely with 1911 ergonomics and parts.
Both viewpoints enrich our collective knowledge, and I appreciate you pushing for clarity—this is exactly what makes our community great at preserving firearms history accurately!

[Bill DeShivs]

You asked, I replied.
I meant no disrespect, but I knew when I read "rust removal" that it would be the old steel wool and oil stuff that is bantered about like it's magic. Sometimes it works well, sometimes it doesn't. Sometimes a ham handed person can damage bluing with just steel wool. There are many methods of doing things, understanding which way to do a particular task is important. I know that the technique is widely used and promoted. That's why I spoke about it.

At least you are doing videos to try to help people.

[Aguila Blanca]

Originally Posted by GorillaGunworks

Bottom Line: The Ballester-Molina is best seen as a hybrid:
• Mechanically, it combines Star lockwork with Browning’s short-recoil barrel system.
• Externally and operationally, it aligns closely with 1911 ergonomics and parts.
Both viewpoints enrich our collective knowledge, and I appreciate you pushing for clarity—this is exactly what makes our community great at preserving firearms history accurately!

I don't agree that the Ballester-Molina is "best" seen as a hybrid. It's not, and no one I've ever met who knows anything about the 1911 considers it to be a hybrid. It is what it is -- a design the Argentinians came up with to allow them to manufacture .45 ACP (11.25mm) pistols without paying royalties to Colt. A comparable situation was John Browning and the Hi-Power. Browning sold the patent for the barrel link to Colt, so when FN Herstal hired Browning to design a new semi-automatic pistol for them, Browning had to design around his own patent, and find another way to make the barrel unlock during the recoil and reload cycle. The Hi-Power isn't a 1911 "hybrid," it's a work-around -- and that's what the Ballester-Rigauds and Ballester-Molinas are. They are work-arounds.

https://sightm1911.com/lib/history/ballester.htm

Consequently, while the completed HAFDASA design bore a strong external similarity to the Colt M1911A1, only the barrel and magazine are interchangeable with the Colt pistol. Note: Barrels and magazines made by HAFDASA are identifiable by the marking “HA” inside a diamond. The following is a list of differnces between the HAFDASA pistol and the M1911A1:

a) The hammer strut on the HAFDASA pistol is much shorter than that of the M1911A1.
b) The firing pin stop on the HAFDASA pistol is not recessed on the side as it is on the M1911A1.
c) The safety lock on the HAFDASA pistol is redesigned with a larger diameter pin, and it can be applied with the hammer cocked or fully down.
d) The mainspring housing on the HAFDASA pistol is an integeral part of the frame.
e) The HAFDASA pistol has a pivoting trigger with a single extension along the right side that cams the side mounted disconnector and engages the sear.
f) The magazine catch on the HAFDASA pistol is assembled differently.
g) The HAFDASA pistol has no slide stop disassembly notch.

[Jim Watson]

But the Ballester shares barrel and magazine specs with Colt, does it not?
I figure as common wear parts with the Colts and Sistemas they had been buying and building.

Seems to me that an open minded gunsmith could adjust the trigger, make a safety extension, install Bomar or Novak sights, and apply a fashionable finish. To end up with a good looking pistol without the grip safety that offends so many.

[Aguila Blanca]

Originally Posted by Jim Watson

But the Ballester shares barrel and magazine specs with Colt, does it not?

Yes -- and I believe that's ALL they share. Even the slides are different.

[glider]

I keep my stuff oiled and I don't buy rusty guns, works for me LOL

[4V50 Gary]

I'd use a nickel (5 cent piece) and coconut oil or even a penny and oil. With a penny or piece of brass, you can remove copper/brass with Hoppe's solvent.

[Ricklin]

I've done the 0000 steel wool method of rust removal, yes it will get the rust, and some bluing along with it in my and others experience.
I use an all copper penny and CLP. No bluing damage at all, it's like magic.

[JohnKSa]

This is actually a well-known and commonly recommended method by both professional and hobbyist gunsmiths. The goal of using oil is to lubricate and suspend the rust particles (iron oxide), which reduces abrasion to the bluing, not increases it. 0000 steel wool is extremely fine and gentle — and when paired with oil, it allows for controlled rust removal with minimal risk to the finish. Using it dry, as you suggested, actually makes it more likely to scratch or remove bluing. This isn't just opinion — it's widely taught and practiced in gun restoration circles.

It is well-known and recommended--I'll give you that. But using oil for the actual rust removal process is a bad idea. That isn't just an opinion, I've tried it both ways on multiple guns. I used to help out at a gun shop and they had a lot of used guns that came in with light surface rust from neglect or handling. I started off using the oil and was getting a lot of wear on the bluing. I started thinking about what was causing the wear since I knew that neither the steel wool nor the oil could do it and realized it was the rust particles.

I thought that if I could keep the rust particles away from the surface after they were removed, there would be no wear to the finish. I started using steel wool dry and dusting it out frequently and the results were dramatically better.

Make sure the steel wool and the surface are free of oil (use a degreaser spray at the start), and keep both of them dusted off so that the rust (iron oxide abrasive) can't build up on the surface or in the steel wool.

0000 steel wool will not harm a blued finish. In fact, buffing with steel wool is the final step in some bluing processes. Even some cold blues (e.g. Oxpho) which are generally considered to be less durable than standard bluing recommend that step.

https://feeds.brownells.com/userdocs...-546forWeb.pdf

To Re-Touch Old Blue:
1. Remove excessive rust with fine abrasive cloth. Thin oil and thin rust
need not be removed.
2. Dampen small cotton pad with Oxpho Blue and rub area to be retouched until colored.
3. Wipe dry with clean cloth and burnish bright with #0 steel wool or finer.
4. If deeper color is desired, repeat Steps 2 and 3.