Greasing a 1990 Dillon 550 - How?

Jeffm004 · January 25, 2016, 06:05 AM

I have a 550 made before the grease nipples, even before the needle grease holes. The link arm pin 13700 is held in place by a 3/4 snap washer. Has anyone pulled these apart to grease the vertical link pins? It does not appear to come apart easily and I believe I have read if you do it, realignment at the factory may be required. The snap washers are off but nothing is sliding very easy. I could shoot some grease in the gaps but that is not going to get any under the pins. I cannot say it "needs" this but a fair amount of grease has worked out over the years. I probably tried to squirt some grease in as well in the last 30 years. Is this a DIYS or a Dillon project?

I'll call Dillon but I keep forgetting.

dahermit · January 25, 2016, 06:21 AM

My Dillion 550b came with "oil" holes. After a couple of years, I dismanteled the press and used those holes as pilot holes to drill and tap them for grease zerks. If you know how to drill and tap, know which size tap drill to use for the zerks threads, installing grease zerks is not difficult. I still have to oil (externally), the ram upon occasion, but that is no big problem.

mps · January 25, 2016, 07:13 AM

The Dillon website (www.dillonprecision.com) has a tab near the top of the home page where you can access their videos.
Scroll down to the video dealing with major cleaning and maintenance of the Dillon 550B. Hope this helps.

wogpotter · January 25, 2016, 11:11 AM

I have the same version as you. Here's the 2 techniques I came up with, on "Official from Dillon" & the other home brewed by me.

No1:
Unbolt the lock screw under the bottom of the ram.
(THIS IS PROBABLY WHY YOU CAN'T GET THE PIVOT PINS OUT btw)

Remove the "C" clips on the lower pivot pin arm ends.
Push the now free pivot pins out being aware the ram will drop free now.
Look at the upper link pivot pins one is hollow. (usually the right hand end).
Use a large nail to tap the opposite pin out through the hole, reverse the nail & drive the hollow one out from the inside.
Clean & grease everything & reassemble.
Put a dab of low strength LocTite on the bottom locking screw.

No2:
Get a large cardboard box, big enough to put the whole press frame in.
Beg borrow or. . . .

a hair dryer.
Unbolt the press from the bench, slide out the head & dies.
Get a bottle of 3 in 1 electric motor oil (in the blue & white can).
put the press in the box, cut a hole in the side & use the hair dryer on HOT & HIGH to heat the frame. Let it heat thoroughly.
Remove the hot frame using gloves.
put a couple of drops of the oil into the gaps between the links & the center section.
Lay the press on its LEFT side for a while.
get it vertical again & add a few more drops to the links & lay the frame in the RIGHT side this time.
Get the press vertical & drip a few drops on the top end of the ram & cycle a few times.
Now do the same on the bottom inverting the press.
Stand it on old newspaper for a couple of days & wipe off any excess.

NOTE: IF you dismantle the linkage yes, it will need realigning, but you can easily do it yourself with the (free) alignment tool the factory will send you if you ask for it.

Kevin Rohrer · January 25, 2016, 01:56 PM

I own a 550 as old as yours, and have never found the need to disassemble that pin. The most I may have done was squirt some Breakfree onto the parts.

Jeffm004 · January 25, 2016, 06:27 PM

Good intel. Dillion is sending a "kit" with new pins. They appeared to be of the opinion if you need to pull it apart, put in new pins (I hope they have grease fittings). As this was mostly preventative. I will ponder my options when I get the kit. And yes, I did not disconnect the big bolt underneath. The whole oil thing looks interesting as well.

Thanks

Jeff

wogpotter · January 26, 2016, 10:32 AM

Do you have a reference or part No for the upgrade kit?
Its something I'd be interested in as I do the oil lube thing annually as a preventative.

Jeffm004 · February 4, 2016, 06:27 PM

Good intel above. What I got was an alignment kit. No parts. I think I will run it as is a bit more before the big teardown.

FrankenMauser · February 5, 2016, 01:29 AM

When I tore mine (no grease provisions) apart in about 2010, Dillon told me the alignment tools weren't necessary.

For the linkage, there really isn't any alignment that can be adjusted.

And for the ram and ram top (can't remember the proper term), I was told to use the primer slide and cup for alignment. As long as the ram top aligned with the priming system, everything else was good to go.
...And it turned out to be true.

But, the technician I was talking to had acknowledged that I had a pretty good understanding of the machine's design tolerances, and he knew that I had a major connection inside the company (to someone that was involved in the 550's improvements over the years, even). So he may have treated me differently than the typical customer.

As for disassembly, I believe I used a "big 'freakin' nail" with the point ground off, and a 3/8" or 1/2" bolt. One pin gets driven out one side (with the nail through the center of the other pin), and the other gets driven out the other side with the bolt.

Rags and cleaning solvent, emery cloth, acetone, moly grease, reassemble ... with the primer slide as the alignment pin for the ram.

iraiam · February 5, 2016, 02:09 AM

I have done it, My old 550 press started to seize up on one of the link pins so I was forced to disassemble it and fix it. As I remember the pins are a press fit on either side of the moving link, I pushed one out with a properly sized brass punch, and I think I remember threading a bolt into one of them and pulling it out with a prybar?. I did not use any purchased alignment tools to get it back in service.

I don't do a regular dis-assembly, but now I squirt a good Teflon lube in the key areas once in a while to keep it from seizing again.

F. Guffey · February 5, 2016, 04:00 PM

I can explain it to you.
I can not comprehend it for you.

Jeffm004, with a few shop skills the problem of lubing the press and cleaning can be solved with a drill, bit and tap. The press will require K/D or as they say taken apart. After K/D I would drill and tap holes through the housing and press in linkages. After drilling/tapping I would install small grease zerks; it works better if the holes are drilled in the center/between the two ends. When the press is greased the new grease will push out the old grease. When the old grease is pushed out dirt, grit and grime will be pushed out with it.

http://stores.ebay.com/ZerksPlus

f. guffey

January 25, 2016, 06:05 AM	#1
Jeffm004 Senior Member Join Date: August 22, 2013 Location: SW Ohio Posts: 255	Greasing a 1990 Dillon 550 - How? I have a 550 made before the grease nipples, even before the needle grease holes. The link arm pin 13700 is held in place by a 3/4 snap washer. Has anyone pulled these apart to grease the vertical link pins? It does not appear to come apart easily and I believe I have read if you do it, realignment at the factory may be required. The snap washers are off but nothing is sliding very easy. I could shoot some grease in the gaps but that is not going to get any under the pins. I cannot say it "needs" this but a fair amount of grease has worked out over the years. I probably tried to squirt some grease in as well in the last 30 years. Is this a DIYS or a Dillon project? I'll call Dillon but I keep forgetting.

January 25, 2016, 11:11 AM	#4
wogpotter Senior Member Join Date: September 27, 2004 Posts: 4,811	I have the same version as you. Here's the 2 techniques I came up with, on "Official from Dillon" & the other home brewed by me. No1: Unbolt the lock screw under the bottom of the ram. (THIS IS PROBABLY WHY YOU CAN'T GET THE PIVOT PINS OUT btw) Remove the "C" clips on the lower pivot pin arm ends. Push the now free pivot pins out being aware the ram will drop free now. Look at the upper link pivot pins one is hollow. (usually the right hand end). Use a large nail to tap the opposite pin out through the hole, reverse the nail & drive the hollow one out from the inside. Clean & grease everything & reassemble. Put a dab of low strength LocTite on the bottom locking screw. No2: Get a large cardboard box, big enough to put the whole press frame in. Beg borrow or. . . . a hair dryer. Unbolt the press from the bench, slide out the head & dies. Get a bottle of 3 in 1 electric motor oil (in the blue & white can). put the press in the box, cut a hole in the side & use the hair dryer on HOT & HIGH to heat the frame. Let it heat thoroughly. Remove the hot frame using gloves. put a couple of drops of the oil into the gaps between the links & the center section. Lay the press on its LEFT side for a while. get it vertical again & add a few more drops to the links & lay the frame in the RIGHT side this time. Get the press vertical & drip a few drops on the top end of the ram & cycle a few times. Now do the same on the bottom inverting the press. Stand it on old newspaper for a couple of days & wipe off any excess. NOTE: IF you dismantle the linkage yes, it will need realigning, but you can easily do it yourself with the (free) alignment tool the factory will send you if you ask for it. Last edited by wogpotter; January 25, 2016 at 11:21 AM.

January 25, 2016, 01:56 PM	#5
Kevin Rohrer Senior Member Join Date: May 19, 2010 Location: Medina, Ohio Posts: 1,049	I own a 550 as old as yours, and have never found the need to disassemble that pin. The most I may have done was squirt some Breakfree onto the parts. __________________ Member: Orange Gunsite Family, NRA--Life, ARTCA, and American Legion. Caveat Emptor: Cavery Grips/AmericanGripz/Prestige Grips/Stealth Grips from Clayton, NC. He is a scammer

February 5, 2016, 01:29 AM	#9
FrankenMauser Senior Member Join Date: August 25, 2008 Location: In the valley above the plain Posts: 13,474	When I tore mine (no grease provisions) apart in about 2010, Dillon told me the alignment tools weren't necessary. For the linkage, there really isn't any alignment that can be adjusted. And for the ram and ram top (can't remember the proper term), I was told to use the primer slide and cup for alignment. As long as the ram top aligned with the priming system, everything else was good to go. ...And it turned out to be true. But, the technician I was talking to had acknowledged that I had a pretty good understanding of the machine's design tolerances, and he knew that I had a major connection inside the company (to someone that was involved in the 550's improvements over the years, even). So he may have treated me differently than the typical customer. As for disassembly, I believe I used a "big 'freakin' nail" with the point ground off, and a 3/8" or 1/2" bolt. One pin gets driven out one side (with the nail through the center of the other pin), and the other gets driven out the other side with the bolt. Rags and cleaning solvent, emery cloth, acetone, moly grease, reassemble ... with the primer slide as the alignment pin for the ram. __________________ Don't even try it. It's even worse than the internet would lead you to believe.

February 5, 2016, 02:09 AM	#10
iraiam Senior Member Join Date: September 6, 2012 Location: Lakewood, CO Posts: 1,057	I have done it, My old 550 press started to seize up on one of the link pins so I was forced to disassemble it and fix it. As I remember the pins are a press fit on either side of the moving link, I pushed one out with a properly sized brass punch, and I think I remember threading a bolt into one of them and pulling it out with a prybar?. I did not use any purchased alignment tools to get it back in service. I don't do a regular dis-assembly, but now I squirt a good Teflon lube in the key areas once in a while to keep it from seizing again. __________________ NRA Lifetime Member Since 1999 "I ask, sir, what is the militia? It is the whole people except for a few public officials." George Mason Last edited by iraiam; February 5, 2016 at 02:17 AM.

January 25, 2016, 06:21 AM	#2
dahermit Senior Member Join Date: October 28, 2006 Location: South Central Michigan...near Posts: 6,501	My Dillion 550b came with "oil" holes. After a couple of years, I dismanteled the press and used those holes as pilot holes to drill and tap them for grease zerks. If you know how to drill and tap, know which size tap drill to use for the zerks threads, installing grease zerks is not difficult. I still have to oil (externally), the ram upon occasion, but that is no big problem.

January 25, 2016, 07:13 AM	#3
mps Junior Member Join Date: November 26, 2010 Posts: 10	The Dillon website (www.dillonprecision.com) has a tab near the top of the home page where you can access their videos. Scroll down to the video dealing with major cleaning and maintenance of the Dillon 550B. Hope this helps.

January 25, 2016, 06:27 PM	#6
Jeffm004 Senior Member Join Date: August 22, 2013 Location: SW Ohio Posts: 255	Good intel. Dillion is sending a "kit" with new pins. They appeared to be of the opinion if you need to pull it apart, put in new pins (I hope they have grease fittings). As this was mostly preventative. I will ponder my options when I get the kit. And yes, I did not disconnect the big bolt underneath. The whole oil thing looks interesting as well. Thanks Jeff

January 26, 2016, 10:32 AM	#7
wogpotter Senior Member Join Date: September 27, 2004 Posts: 4,811	Do you have a reference or part No for the upgrade kit? Its something I'd be interested in as I do the oil lube thing annually as a preventative.

February 4, 2016, 06:27 PM	#8
Jeffm004 Senior Member Join Date: August 22, 2013 Location: SW Ohio Posts: 255	Good intel above. What I got was an alignment kit. No parts. I think I will run it as is a bit more before the big teardown.

February 5, 2016, 04:00 PM	#11
F. Guffey Senior Member Join Date: July 18, 2008 Posts: 7,249	I can explain it to you. I can not comprehend it for you. Jeffm004, with a few shop skills the problem of lubing the press and cleaning can be solved with a drill, bit and tap. The press will require K/D or as they say taken apart. After K/D I would drill and tap holes through the housing and press in linkages. After drilling/tapping I would install small grease zerks; it works better if the holes are drilled in the center/between the two ends. When the press is greased the new grease will push out the old grease. When the old grease is pushed out dirt, grit and grime will be pushed out with it. http://stores.ebay.com/ZerksPlus f. guffey