Casting bullet help...

1911-38spl · August 18, 2011, 10:15 AM

Ok guys I have now gone through my grandfathers stuff a little more. And what do I find... 900-1100 lbs of lead that grandpa melted and poured into RCBS ingot molds. I did a scratch test and it seems to be harder lead!

PS: huge pain in my back to carry all the lead out of grandpa basement!

Also found a Lee melting pot... No bullet molds though

(think my uncle might have them...)

So that brings me to my question. I'll be making the flush set wad-cutters for my 1911 .38 special. Can anyone recommend a good 148gr wad-cutter .38 special bullet mold??? Will also probably need a good lead respirator... Does 3M make a good one??? I have a friend that works at 3M...

Thanks for the help guys!

chiefr · August 18, 2011, 11:18 AM

I have been using Lee 148gr WC aluminum moulds for over 30 years in 38SPL.
I size to .3575 in my RCBS lubri-sizer. With 2.8gr Bullseye, I get ragged hole groups.

I cast outside with air to my back. No wind, I use a fan.

**Unclenick** · August 18, 2011, 11:27 AM

Respirators aren't nearly as important as eye protection and welder's apron and gloves. It's very hard to get much lead airborne at casting temperatures. Primer dust from case cleaning tumblers is much more hazardous. Use good ventilation to get the flux smoke carried off, and you'll be fine.

I bought one of the Lee tumble lube molds for .38 wadcutters and got the most accurate wadcutters I've ever shot. I got their 6-cavity mold, and consider that worth the cost because it makes production so much faster. Nonetheless, you can get the very inexpensive 2-cavity version to try it out. The tumble lube bullets are not only good shooters, they save you having to invest in lubricating and sizing equipment as they are normally fired at as-cast diameter and are lubed with Lee Liquid Alox lube.

zippy13 · August 18, 2011, 11:47 AM

I'm essentially the same as chiefr, but I use a heated Lyman sizer.

1911-38spl · August 18, 2011, 11:53 AM

I was checking out the Lee six bullet mold and thinking that would be the way to go...

I am 99% sure that the rubbermaid full of cleaning/reloading liquids (got from auction) has three bottles of Lee Alox in it so I'm set there! I'm checking with my uncle to double check to see if he took off with the bullet molds... B/C I know for a fact he isn't reloading right now...

What type of wad cutter tip does that lee mold make? Is it flat like below or a dimpled in?

or

Rangefinder · August 18, 2011, 11:55 AM

Yup--lead isn't the terrible, make you mutate simply by looking at it kind of stuff the lib-tards want everyone to believe. You have to take it up to 1200 degrees before you start getting lead fumes. We cast WELL below that. Its structure is too big to be absorbed through the skin, so handling it isn't an issue so long as you don't do something that would result in ingestion. Don't eat while casting, and wash good afterwards. No need for a haz-mat suit, just adequate ventelation to get rid of the fumes of anything else burning off in the lead--AKA flux.

zippy13 · August 18, 2011, 12:25 PM

The Lee WC has a mini button nose as in the Fiocci pic. The WC in the first pic seems to be loaded with the sprue forward -- possibly a double-ended number.

1911-38spl · August 18, 2011, 02:42 PM

10-4 thanks. I'm off this afternoon to go collect some wheel weights to melt down!

Ideal Tool · August 18, 2011, 05:34 PM

Hello, 1911..If your new to casting..you might want to do it outdoors..I work in garage with all doors & windows open..G.D. faces East..so I usually wait for a nice cool day with a brisk west wind for good air flow away from me. You'll need a pair of heavy leather gloves..even insulated welders gloves if your smelting in large quantities..those ingot moulds get hot! I use a heavy leather welders apron over heavy jeans, long-sleeved heavy melt-resistant shirt..sweatshirt if in colder months, hat, face shield or at least goggles. Heavy leather work boots..make sure pants are overlapping boot-top & shirt sleeves are covering back of gloves..that liquid lead likes to splash! You'll need a couple of old stainless spoons..grind end to fit pot contour & drill 1/8" holes all over bowl..for straining dross. Commercial non-smoke flux or some beeswax for fluxing. wooden hammer handle..not so much for cutting sprue..I use the heavy glove to push cutter, while keeping downward pressure on plate..keeps bullet base flat..but handle is good for tapping on mould hinge to release stubburn slugs..the ONLY place you should ever strike a mould by the way. Get an old coffee can for dross & small Alum. pan for sprues. Be sure you drop your very soft-as cast bullets on a well padded (Non-melting!) surface. NEVER add cold metal to melt in pot..I use a small propane torch if in a hurry..best to stack extra ingots around pot lip while waiting for alloy to melt..place mould on top also to pre-heat. Might find smoking cavities with wooden match helps fill-out..might not. After casting..I always remove all clothes before entering house..I keep these casting clothes seperate & in garage. I head straight for a hot shower including a shampoo..Before eating, drinking, smoking or anything!
Play around with equipment..experiment..think about what your doing and why..be patient..have fun..and above all...be CAREFUL!

Powderman · August 18, 2011, 06:04 PM

If you are just starting out with bullet casting--check these threads out. I wrote them as a primer to the beginning bullet caster.

http://thefiringline.com/forums/show...ng+quick+start

http://thefiringline.com/forums/show...ng+quick+start

http://thefiringline.com/forums/show...ng+quick+start

http://thefiringline.com/forums/show...ng+quick+start

Yes, these are old threads, but I believe they'll help.

1911-38spl · August 19, 2011, 02:35 PM

Thanks guys!

Ideal,
No worries I have a mig welder and metal bench that I use for mig/tig welding and figured I would use that for casing. It's in the garage and i have a venthood behind the bench that draws off all fumes away from me. That being said I have a face shield, gloves, and leathers I use for welding... No worries about saftey here!

Yes I am new to casting, but I have 3-4k rounds in 45 acp and 38 special. That are already pre-cast so i won't have to start casting just yet. I have a couple sources for lead wheel weights; which from what i hear I can just melt and use them strait without alloy or mixing other metals in. Whether that is true or not I'll probably read about in the links you all left for me...

That being said all I am doing for now is melting wheel weight into easy to sore 1lb ingots... You can never have too much lead stored up right!?!?!?!?

My birthday is in Oct, so I'm planning on asking for a ingot mold and the 5-6 bullet .38spl mold previously talked about... Also probably need a good flux to...

Anyhow I am researching and learning for now. I also have some REALLY SMALL 45 acps (like 145-155gr.) that I'm going to melt and probably reform into 45acp rounds. Same with some other 170ish gr unkown bullets that grandpa casted...

**Unclenick** · August 19, 2011, 02:47 PM

Those light bullets usually were to achieve high power factor loads without as much perceived recoil. Accuracy suffers, though. I've never had accurate loads from the ones I've tried. Good enough for steel plates to 25 yards, but definitely not good enough for a 50 yard slow fire X-ring.

snuffy · August 19, 2011, 02:58 PM

Look here;

http://thefiringline.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=43

Mods, please move this to the bulletcasting forum.

zippy13 · August 19, 2011, 04:03 PM

Unclenick,
Which ones are you calling Those light bullets? IIRC, 148-gr .38 WCs were popular long before people worried about power factor loads.

1911-38spl · August 19, 2011, 04:05 PM

he's refering to the light 45acp cast rounds I got at the auction... Seems pretty light to me for a 45... I'll probably get a Lee 230gr 45acp x6 die to cast for my bro's XD.

August 18, 2011, 10:15 AM	#1
1911-38spl Member Join Date: August 12, 2011 Posts: 40	Casting bullet help... Ok guys I have now gone through my grandfathers stuff a little more. And what do I find... 900-1100 lbs of lead that grandpa melted and poured into RCBS ingot molds. I did a scratch test and it seems to be harder lead! PS: huge pain in my back to carry all the lead out of grandpa basement! Also found a Lee melting pot... No bullet molds though (think my uncle might have them...) So that brings me to my question. I'll be making the flush set wad-cutters for my 1911 .38 special. Can anyone recommend a good 148gr wad-cutter .38 special bullet mold??? Will also probably need a good lead respirator... Does 3M make a good one??? I have a friend that works at 3M... Thanks for the help guys!

August 18, 2011, 11:27 AM	#3
Unclenick Staff Join Date: March 4, 2005 Location: Ohio Posts: 21,733	Respirators aren't nearly as important as eye protection and welder's apron and gloves. It's very hard to get much lead airborne at casting temperatures. Primer dust from case cleaning tumblers is much more hazardous. Use good ventilation to get the flux smoke carried off, and you'll be fine. I bought one of the Lee tumble lube molds for .38 wadcutters and got the most accurate wadcutters I've ever shot. I got their 6-cavity mold, and consider that worth the cost because it makes production so much faster. Nonetheless, you can get the very inexpensive 2-cavity version to try it out. The tumble lube bullets are not only good shooters, they save you having to invest in lubricating and sizing equipment as they are normally fired at as-cast diameter and are lubed with Lee Liquid Alox lube. __________________ Gunsite Orange Hat Family Member CMP Certified GSM Master Instructor NRA Certified Rifle Instructor NRA Benefactor Member and Golden Eagle

August 18, 2011, 06:04 PM	#10
Powderman Senior Member Join Date: September 7, 2001 Location: Washington State Posts: 2,166	If you are just starting out with bullet casting--check these threads out. I wrote them as a primer to the beginning bullet caster. http://thefiringline.com/forums/show...ng+quick+start http://thefiringline.com/forums/show...ng+quick+start http://thefiringline.com/forums/show...ng+quick+start http://thefiringline.com/forums/show...ng+quick+start Yes, these are old threads, but I believe they'll help. __________________ Hiding in plain sight...

August 19, 2011, 02:47 PM	#12
Unclenick Staff Join Date: March 4, 2005 Location: Ohio Posts: 21,733	Those light bullets usually were to achieve high power factor loads without as much perceived recoil. Accuracy suffers, though. I've never had accurate loads from the ones I've tried. Good enough for steel plates to 25 yards, but definitely not good enough for a 50 yard slow fire X-ring. __________________ Gunsite Orange Hat Family Member CMP Certified GSM Master Instructor NRA Certified Rifle Instructor NRA Benefactor Member and Golden Eagle

August 18, 2011, 11:18 AM	#2
chiefr Senior Member Join Date: January 27, 2010 Location: AR Posts: 1,401	I have been using Lee 148gr WC aluminum moulds for over 30 years in 38SPL. I size to .3575 in my RCBS lubri-sizer. With 2.8gr Bullseye, I get ragged hole groups. I cast outside with air to my back. No wind, I use a fan.

August 18, 2011, 11:47 AM	#4
zippy13 Senior Member Join Date: August 23, 2008 Location: SoCal Posts: 6,442	I'm essentially the same as chiefr, but I use a heated Lyman sizer.

August 18, 2011, 11:53 AM	#5
1911-38spl Member Join Date: August 12, 2011 Posts: 40	I was checking out the Lee six bullet mold and thinking that would be the way to go... I am 99% sure that the rubbermaid full of cleaning/reloading liquids (got from auction) has three bottles of Lee Alox in it so I'm set there! I'm checking with my uncle to double check to see if he took off with the bullet molds... B/C I know for a fact he isn't reloading right now... What type of wad cutter tip does that lee mold make? Is it flat like below or a dimpled in? or

August 18, 2011, 11:55 AM	#6
Rangefinder Senior Member Join Date: August 4, 2005 Posts: 2,017	Yup--lead isn't the terrible, make you mutate simply by looking at it kind of stuff the lib-tards want everyone to believe. You have to take it up to 1200 degrees before you start getting lead fumes. We cast WELL below that. Its structure is too big to be absorbed through the skin, so handling it isn't an issue so long as you don't do something that would result in ingestion. Don't eat while casting, and wash good afterwards. No need for a haz-mat suit, just adequate ventelation to get rid of the fumes of anything else burning off in the lead--AKA flux.

August 18, 2011, 12:25 PM	#7
zippy13 Senior Member Join Date: August 23, 2008 Location: SoCal Posts: 6,442	The Lee WC has a mini button nose as in the Fiocci pic. The WC in the first pic seems to be loaded with the sprue forward -- possibly a double-ended number.

August 18, 2011, 02:42 PM	#8
1911-38spl Member Join Date: August 12, 2011 Posts: 40	10-4 thanks. I'm off this afternoon to go collect some wheel weights to melt down!

August 18, 2011, 05:34 PM	#9
Ideal Tool Junior member Join Date: October 6, 2010 Location: Michigan Posts: 1,080	Hello, 1911..If your new to casting..you might want to do it outdoors..I work in garage with all doors & windows open..G.D. faces East..so I usually wait for a nice cool day with a brisk west wind for good air flow away from me. You'll need a pair of heavy leather gloves..even insulated welders gloves if your smelting in large quantities..those ingot moulds get hot! I use a heavy leather welders apron over heavy jeans, long-sleeved heavy melt-resistant shirt..sweatshirt if in colder months, hat, face shield or at least goggles. Heavy leather work boots..make sure pants are overlapping boot-top & shirt sleeves are covering back of gloves..that liquid lead likes to splash! You'll need a couple of old stainless spoons..grind end to fit pot contour & drill 1/8" holes all over bowl..for straining dross. Commercial non-smoke flux or some beeswax for fluxing. wooden hammer handle..not so much for cutting sprue..I use the heavy glove to push cutter, while keeping downward pressure on plate..keeps bullet base flat..but handle is good for tapping on mould hinge to release stubburn slugs..the ONLY place you should ever strike a mould by the way. Get an old coffee can for dross & small Alum. pan for sprues. Be sure you drop your very soft-as cast bullets on a well padded (Non-melting!) surface. NEVER add cold metal to melt in pot..I use a small propane torch if in a hurry..best to stack extra ingots around pot lip while waiting for alloy to melt..place mould on top also to pre-heat. Might find smoking cavities with wooden match helps fill-out..might not. After casting..I always remove all clothes before entering house..I keep these casting clothes seperate & in garage. I head straight for a hot shower including a shampoo..Before eating, drinking, smoking or anything! Play around with equipment..experiment..think about what your doing and why..be patient..have fun..and above all...be CAREFUL!

August 19, 2011, 02:35 PM	#11
1911-38spl Member Join Date: August 12, 2011 Posts: 40	Thanks guys! Ideal, No worries I have a mig welder and metal bench that I use for mig/tig welding and figured I would use that for casing. It's in the garage and i have a venthood behind the bench that draws off all fumes away from me. That being said I have a face shield, gloves, and leathers I use for welding... No worries about saftey here! Yes I am new to casting, but I have 3-4k rounds in 45 acp and 38 special. That are already pre-cast so i won't have to start casting just yet. I have a couple sources for lead wheel weights; which from what i hear I can just melt and use them strait without alloy or mixing other metals in. Whether that is true or not I'll probably read about in the links you all left for me... That being said all I am doing for now is melting wheel weight into easy to sore 1lb ingots... You can never have too much lead stored up right!?!?!?!? My birthday is in Oct, so I'm planning on asking for a ingot mold and the 5-6 bullet .38spl mold previously talked about... Also probably need a good flux to... Anyhow I am researching and learning for now. I also have some REALLY SMALL 45 acps (like 145-155gr.) that I'm going to melt and probably reform into 45acp rounds. Same with some other 170ish gr unkown bullets that grandpa casted...

August 19, 2011, 02:58 PM	#13
snuffy Senior Member Join Date: May 21, 2001 Location: Oshkosh wi. Posts: 3,055	Look here; http://thefiringline.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=43 Mods, please move this to the bulletcasting forum.

August 19, 2011, 04:03 PM	#14
zippy13 Senior Member Join Date: August 23, 2008 Location: SoCal Posts: 6,442	Unclenick, Which ones are you calling Those light bullets? IIRC, 148-gr .38 WCs were popular long before people worried about power factor loads.

August 19, 2011, 04:05 PM	#15
1911-38spl Member Join Date: August 12, 2011 Posts: 40	he's refering to the light 45acp cast rounds I got at the auction... Seems pretty light to me for a 45... I'll probably get a Lee 230gr 45acp x6 die to cast for my bro's XD.