30.06 Springfield M2 Ball ?

DE Shooter · December 18, 2010, 04:27 PM

A friend just aquired a Garand. He wanted me to get some 30.06 M2 Ball; I was goin to the Valley Forge show. M2 ball was slim pickings...but I found some white boxes labeled 30.06 SPRINGFIELD M-2 Ball (7.62 x 63 mm) 150 GR FMJ. The labels on the boxes look fresh made. A sign over the boxes said NON-CORROSIVE. I asked the seller and he says it's definately non-corrosive; he uses in his Garand. So the case is brass, the bullet and primer show red sealer. They are head stamped with NK and 1957...except the N is backward...like a Russian letter. I only bought two boxes for $25. My friend wants to "function test" his Garand while he still has a return guarantee. I'm guessing it is OK to shoot, but he should treat it as corrosive. Will a spent corrosive primer show to have one or two holes? Any info appreciated. Happy Holidays to all.

**Unclenick** · December 18, 2010, 05:01 PM

The number of holes depends on the primer style, 1 for Boxer and 2 for Berdan. Both Boxer and Berdan primers have been made corrosive and non-corrosive, so the hole count tells you nothing about that.

Given how old the stuff is, I would treat it as corrosive. The U.S. military stopped loading anything corrosive in 1953 except for one lot of National Match produced at Frankford Arsenal in 1958 (IIRC). But many other countries of origin did not. I have some 1982 Sellier & Bellot .308 that is corrosively Berdan primed. Some e-mail Q&A with S & B resulted in the information that ammo in the iron curtain days was primed the way the customer ordered it, so the year didn't necessarily tell you what priming mix they would have used in it.

I don't know the reversed N headstamp. I found seven front facing N's all from different makers ranging from Illinois to India. Hungary, Poland, Germany, Africa, UK were the others. So who knows what's in there?

To clean out corrosive priming mix, clean normally then clean it well with soapy water or some sudsy ammonia from the grocery store. Then dry patch it, then run an oily patch through to protect the bore. Another good method is to use a funnel and tubing to run boiling water down through it. Be prepare to remove and clean the gas cylinder and the gas port hole in the barrel and around it on the barrel spline that holds the gas cylinder, then oil afterward. I like to use Boretech Eliminator, as it is water-based and cleans out the copper and other fouling, too. Ed's Red will also get it out. Cleaning off the piston end of the op-rod while you have the gas cylinder off is a good idea, too.

DE Shooter · December 18, 2010, 05:05 PM

Thanks...could be his reloads for all I know. Appreciate the info.

MikeG · December 18, 2010, 05:07 PM

The reversed N and regular K are cyrillic characters for IK. This is the headstamp for Igman Zavod, Konjic Yugoslavia.

I'd bet that it's corrosive primed.

mehavey · December 18, 2010, 05:20 PM

Quote:

Very good ammo, but corrosive and berdan primed. Shot a couple of cans worth years ago , but out of M1903s and M1917s. As accurate as most other M2 milsurp. It is M2 Ball, with a 150 gr projectile. The ammo came packed in real US WW2 .50 Cal cans with side opening lids... not bad considering I was able to buy it for about $45 a can of 484 rounds.

http://forums.gunboards.com/showthre...nyone-try-this

Quote:

NK (with a backwards N) at 12 oclock
1957 at 6 oclock So this was made by Igman in 1957
- Brass cased
- Boxer primed (yep!)
- Copper Jacket (non-magnetic)
- Lead core (non-magnetic)
- Sealant around case neck and primer (military style)
- Loaded to M2 specs
This ammo got good reviews when it was on the market a few years ago. Everybody reported it to be non-corrosive, which seems strange for 1957 surplus, so you might want to research that for yourself.

http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/s...ad.php?t=60704

December 18, 2010, 04:27 PM	#1
DE Shooter Senior Member Join Date: January 20, 2009 Posts: 215	30.06 Springfield M2 Ball ? A friend just aquired a Garand. He wanted me to get some 30.06 M2 Ball; I was goin to the Valley Forge show. M2 ball was slim pickings...but I found some white boxes labeled 30.06 SPRINGFIELD M-2 Ball (7.62 x 63 mm) 150 GR FMJ. The labels on the boxes look fresh made. A sign over the boxes said NON-CORROSIVE. I asked the seller and he says it's definately non-corrosive; he uses in his Garand. So the case is brass, the bullet and primer show red sealer. They are head stamped with NK and 1957...except the N is backward...like a Russian letter. I only bought two boxes for $25. My friend wants to "function test" his Garand while he still has a return guarantee. I'm guessing it is OK to shoot, but he should treat it as corrosive. Will a spent corrosive primer show to have one or two holes? Any info appreciated. Happy Holidays to all.

December 18, 2010, 05:01 PM	#2
Unclenick Staff Join Date: March 4, 2005 Location: Ohio Posts: 21,739	The number of holes depends on the primer style, 1 for Boxer and 2 for Berdan. Both Boxer and Berdan primers have been made corrosive and non-corrosive, so the hole count tells you nothing about that. Given how old the stuff is, I would treat it as corrosive. The U.S. military stopped loading anything corrosive in 1953 except for one lot of National Match produced at Frankford Arsenal in 1958 (IIRC). But many other countries of origin did not. I have some 1982 Sellier & Bellot .308 that is corrosively Berdan primed. Some e-mail Q&A with S & B resulted in the information that ammo in the iron curtain days was primed the way the customer ordered it, so the year didn't necessarily tell you what priming mix they would have used in it. I don't know the reversed N headstamp. I found seven front facing N's all from different makers ranging from Illinois to India. Hungary, Poland, Germany, Africa, UK were the others. So who knows what's in there? To clean out corrosive priming mix, clean normally then clean it well with soapy water or some sudsy ammonia from the grocery store. Then dry patch it, then run an oily patch through to protect the bore. Another good method is to use a funnel and tubing to run boiling water down through it. Be prepare to remove and clean the gas cylinder and the gas port hole in the barrel and around it on the barrel spline that holds the gas cylinder, then oil afterward. I like to use Boretech Eliminator, as it is water-based and cleans out the copper and other fouling, too. Ed's Red will also get it out. Cleaning off the piston end of the op-rod while you have the gas cylinder off is a good idea, too. __________________ Gunsite Orange Hat Family Member CMP Certified GSM Master Instructor NRA Certified Rifle Instructor NRA Benefactor Member and Golden Eagle

December 18, 2010, 05:05 PM	#3
DE Shooter Senior Member Join Date: January 20, 2009 Posts: 215	Thanks...could be his reloads for all I know. Appreciate the info.

December 18, 2010, 05:07 PM	#4
MikeG Senior Member Join Date: April 2, 2002 Location: Falcon Colorado Posts: 258	The reversed N and regular K are cyrillic characters for IK. This is the headstamp for Igman Zavod, Konjic Yugoslavia. I'd bet that it's corrosive primed.