Ultrasonic Cleaning With Primer In Brass

k4swb · November 22, 2010, 04:07 PM

Does anyone clean their handgun brass in an ultrasonic cleaner with the spent primer still in the pocket, and if so how clean does the cleaner get the primer pocket? I know alot of folks don't worry about PP cleanliness and if that's your thing, so be it. I like my PPs clean. Recently started using a progressive press and depriming and hand cleaning sort of defeats a progressive's speed.

demigod · November 22, 2010, 04:12 PM

I don't even get the primer pockets 100% clean in my U/S cleaner when I have the primers removed. I'd guess you'd get almost none of the carbon out of there as primer pockets are almost water tight anyway.

I run a progressive too. But I've gotten to where I decap, resize, and prime completely off of my Dillon 550b. I still use the 550b to prime 9mm brass. I like being able to load from primed brass so I can really focus on powder and bullet and load fast and smooth without primer refill distractions.

mikld · November 22, 2010, 06:01 PM

Why clean dead primers? It seems it would shorten the life of the solution...

testuser · November 23, 2010, 02:35 AM

I rinse mine in soap with just a hint of citric acid (1/8 tsp powdered citric acid per gallon of water mixed with car washing soap), then dry them in the oven per the instructions I found online with the RCBS Sidewinder. 200 degrees with no more than 225 degrees or they'll spot. Primer pockets will get mostly clean with this method, but not spotless.

The problem with washing the brass with the primer in is water in the primer pockets. I'm afraid that if I rinse them with the old primers in place then they'll never get dry. That could cause a misfire.

I generally decap first in a large batch, then wash, dry and size. I've tried sizing and decapping in one step prior to cleaning, which worked just fine. However, I've found that sizing after cleaning really adds a nice shine to the brass and it's good for the dies.

You could still use the progressive for sizing. On the plus size you can even use a cheap "c" style press for depriming since it takes almost zero force and you'll have better access to the ram in order to work faster. I use a Lee single stage with the primer catch tube. Works great and never drops a primer on the floor.

I sold my progressive and reload on a turret. It's my preference to size and prime in a batch and store the brass in cheap grocery store tupperware for later reloading.

On the plus side, washing your brass means you don't have to worry about any lead dust from the tumbler.

**Unclenick** · November 23, 2010, 10:56 AM

If you use any wet cleaning process with primers still in the pockets, some of the water will be there when you decap, making a wet mess of your press. Guess how I know.

Just buy the $10 Lee Universal Depriming and Decapping die and run that step separately. This is what the Lee Challenger or Lee Hand Press you got to learn reloading on before you bought your progressive is for.

k4swb · November 23, 2010, 11:24 AM

I've been reloading for about 30 years on a single stage press doing everything in batches. One step was to clean PPs. I knew when I went to a progressive recently I would not be able to do this without defeating the whole idea of a progressive press. Anyone that does not clean their primer pockets is welcome to it and I've been doing without on the progressive and it works fine. I just like having them clean, if possible.
I've seen pictures of brass cleaned in a US cleaner, both with and without the primer removed and it looked as if the cleaner did clean the PP somewhat even with the spent primer still in. I was curious to get some insight here.

BigJimP · November 23, 2010, 12:51 PM

Depriming to clean your brass ( at least for handgun brass ) makes no sense to me ....

I reload on a progressive ( Dillon 650 ) ......and adding an extra step just increases my reloading time.

I'm not surprised that the sonic cleaners will leave a little liquid in the primer pocket - as you deprime - I can easily see that it would be a mess in station 1 and 2 on a progressive press ....

I'll continue to use a vibrating dry cleaner ....its good enough for handgun brass in my opinion. If I was reloading 30 rds for hunting ...maybe I could see it / but not when I sit down to load 4,000 cases of .45acp ....

November 22, 2010, 04:07 PM	#1
k4swb Senior Member Join Date: July 11, 2009 Posts: 389	Ultrasonic Cleaning With Primer In Brass Does anyone clean their handgun brass in an ultrasonic cleaner with the spent primer still in the pocket, and if so how clean does the cleaner get the primer pocket? I know alot of folks don't worry about PP cleanliness and if that's your thing, so be it. I like my PPs clean. Recently started using a progressive press and depriming and hand cleaning sort of defeats a progressive's speed.

November 23, 2010, 02:35 AM	#4
testuser Senior Member Join Date: September 8, 2010 Posts: 495	I rinse mine in soap with just a hint of citric acid (1/8 tsp powdered citric acid per gallon of water mixed with car washing soap), then dry them in the oven per the instructions I found online with the RCBS Sidewinder. 200 degrees with no more than 225 degrees or they'll spot. Primer pockets will get mostly clean with this method, but not spotless. The problem with washing the brass with the primer in is water in the primer pockets. I'm afraid that if I rinse them with the old primers in place then they'll never get dry. That could cause a misfire. I generally decap first in a large batch, then wash, dry and size. I've tried sizing and decapping in one step prior to cleaning, which worked just fine. However, I've found that sizing after cleaning really adds a nice shine to the brass and it's good for the dies. You could still use the progressive for sizing. On the plus size you can even use a cheap "c" style press for depriming since it takes almost zero force and you'll have better access to the ram in order to work faster. I use a Lee single stage with the primer catch tube. Works great and never drops a primer on the floor. I sold my progressive and reload on a turret. It's my preference to size and prime in a batch and store the brass in cheap grocery store tupperware for later reloading. On the plus side, washing your brass means you don't have to worry about any lead dust from the tumbler. Last edited by testuser; November 23, 2010 at 02:44 AM.

November 23, 2010, 10:56 AM	#5
Unclenick Staff Join Date: March 4, 2005 Location: Ohio Posts: 21,732	If you use any wet cleaning process with primers still in the pockets, some of the water will be there when you decap, making a wet mess of your press. Guess how I know. Just buy the $10 Lee Universal Depriming and Decapping die and run that step separately. This is what the Lee Challenger or Lee Hand Press you got to learn reloading on before you bought your progressive is for. __________________ Gunsite Orange Hat Family Member CMP Certified GSM Master Instructor NRA Certified Rifle Instructor NRA Benefactor Member and Golden Eagle

November 22, 2010, 04:12 PM	#2
demigod Junior member Join Date: March 13, 2008 Location: AZ Posts: 1,129	I don't even get the primer pockets 100% clean in my U/S cleaner when I have the primers removed. I'd guess you'd get almost none of the carbon out of there as primer pockets are almost water tight anyway. I run a progressive too. But I've gotten to where I decap, resize, and prime completely off of my Dillon 550b. I still use the 550b to prime 9mm brass. I like being able to load from primed brass so I can really focus on powder and bullet and load fast and smooth without primer refill distractions.

November 22, 2010, 06:01 PM	#3
mikld Senior Member Join Date: February 7, 2009 Location: Southern Oregon! Posts: 2,891	Why clean dead primers? It seems it would shorten the life of the solution...

November 23, 2010, 11:24 AM	#6
k4swb Senior Member Join Date: July 11, 2009 Posts: 389	I've been reloading for about 30 years on a single stage press doing everything in batches. One step was to clean PPs. I knew when I went to a progressive recently I would not be able to do this without defeating the whole idea of a progressive press. Anyone that does not clean their primer pockets is welcome to it and I've been doing without on the progressive and it works fine. I just like having them clean, if possible. I've seen pictures of brass cleaned in a US cleaner, both with and without the primer removed and it looked as if the cleaner did clean the PP somewhat even with the spent primer still in. I was curious to get some insight here.

November 23, 2010, 12:51 PM	#7
BigJimP Senior Member Join Date: February 23, 2005 Posts: 13,195	Depriming to clean your brass ( at least for handgun brass ) makes no sense to me .... I reload on a progressive ( Dillon 650 ) ......and adding an extra step just increases my reloading time. I'm not surprised that the sonic cleaners will leave a little liquid in the primer pocket - as you deprime - I can easily see that it would be a mess in station 1 and 2 on a progressive press .... I'll continue to use a vibrating dry cleaner ....its good enough for handgun brass in my opinion. If I was reloading 30 rds for hunting ...maybe I could see it / but not when I sit down to load 4,000 cases of .45acp ....