Case Lube?

45romeo · January 11, 2008, 12:02 AM

Why no just use a thin film of light oil on your fingers to lube cases? I tried it with a bit of WD-40 on my fingers and the few cases I capped and sized went in and out of the die real easy?

rwilson452 · January 11, 2008, 12:04 AM

because oil can contaminate the powder. If you get any in the case it could cause a big problem.

45romeo · January 11, 2008, 12:31 AM

Okay I can understand that concern. But, if one was careful and used a very thin film are there any other issues. I'm not into producing massive amounts of ammo, just reloading for fun and to save a few bucks. Extra steps like wiping off the cases afterwards is not a big deal to me. Thanks for the help.

rwilson452 · January 11, 2008, 01:24 AM

just wiping is not going to get all the oil off. it can still migrate in and ruin the powder. We don't use water based lubes because they are expensive we use them because it's the safe way to go. suit yourself but I wouldn't do it.
Oh BTW if you get enough oil inside the case and it doesn't turn your round into a dud the oil could diesel when you shoot it. you might not like the result of that.

Al Norris · January 11, 2008, 01:32 AM

45romeo, where in Idaho do you live? If it's close to me, I'm coming over to thump your head!

WD40 dries to a gummy residue. Even if you wipe off the cases, even if you are so carefull that you don't get any inside the case, do you know what it will do to your dies?

Get yourself some imperial sizing wax. It's not expensive and a little really goes a long ways... and you can use it just like you described using WD.

Listen to rwilson452.

Conservadude · January 11, 2008, 01:36 AM

Case lube is not expensive, so why try to save by using riskier products? Just get some spray-on lube that dries to become a dry lube, done. You can use a pretty light dose and it still works fine, just don't slam the shell into the sizer fast enough to heat it up and you'll be fine. Buy carbide dies and only lube every 3rd case. Save your money that way instead.

Brian

Prince55 · January 11, 2008, 01:39 AM

A friend who has loaded shells for years swears that he has good luck
with vaseline and no problems.

arkie2 · January 11, 2008, 03:34 AM

Since you didn't say, are you talking pistol or rifle brass? 'Cuz it makes a difference.

Martyn4802 · January 11, 2008, 08:11 AM

Imperial Sizing Die Wax for case bodies, and powdered graphite for the case necks. No lube on case shoulders.

Martyn

Edward429451 · January 11, 2008, 11:11 AM

There's a guy on the castboolits board that sells homemade sizing lube that is better than Imperial and cheaper. I got 4 film canisters for a few bucks + shp. When I size 45/70 cases with imperial, I get vibration in my RC press, but when I use Bullshop lube it's smooth as silk. He goes by the handle Bullshop over there.

Here's a direct link

http://bullshop.gunloads.com/

**Mike Irwin** · January 11, 2008, 11:17 AM

I'm reminded of Tamara's first foray into reloading in which she ended up using Wesson oil...

Not Smith & Wesson oil, but Wesson cooking oil...

45romeo · January 11, 2008, 11:38 AM

I'm reloading for .243 Win and 30-06. I've seen the reciepe for lube made from bees wax and a bunch of other stuff but thought that looked like a pain to make. I've got Lee case lube, but it was in the house where it is warm and I was out in the garage where it is cold so I tried the WD-40 on the few cases I was working with. Worked really good but I'll not to do that again. I'll clean my die out well with solvent and never use oil based lube again!
I have been hand slapped!

Thanks

arkie2 · January 11, 2008, 11:46 AM

Next question. Are your .243 and 30-06 bolt action? 'Cuz it makes a difference.

Edward429451 · January 11, 2008, 11:53 AM

Quote:

looked like a pain to make.

I thought so too but tried anyway and found out that it was so much simpler to make than reading the instructions to make it. (We're talking about making bullet lube here and not case lube though. Never tried making case lube, though it's probably about the same.)

bigbird34 · January 11, 2008, 02:37 PM

By using any light oil or penatrating oil,it will creep into the primer pocket and kill your primers dead ,it does not take much to do so,case lube does not creep ....My 2 cents ,BB34

45romeo · January 11, 2008, 06:12 PM

.243 Win is Savage Model 99A lever action with rotary magaizine. 30-06 is Enfield of 1917. Sporterized.
I'm not trying to, or necessary want to use oil as lube. Just trying to find out why it is not used and I am getting a good lesson in that.

arkie2 · January 11, 2008, 09:21 PM

For a bolt action you can neck resize only after you fire form the brass and not have to use any lube at all if you have the right die. It's supposed to result in better accuracy but for me the advantages of not having to lube is benefit enough. Don't know if you can neck resize only for a lever action. My guess is no but someone here will know for sure.

Martyn4802 · January 12, 2008, 07:55 AM

Neck sizing is the best way to go for bench shooting. But, for hunting rounds where feeding is critical in a hunting situation, I full length size cases to insure positive, unencumbered feeding.

Martyn

January 11, 2008, 12:02 AM	#1
45romeo Member Join Date: December 26, 2007 Location: Idaho Posts: 26	Case Lube? Why no just use a thin film of light oil on your fingers to lube cases? I tried it with a bit of WD-40 on my fingers and the few cases I capped and sized went in and out of the die real easy?

January 11, 2008, 12:31 AM	#3
45romeo Member Join Date: December 26, 2007 Location: Idaho Posts: 26	Any other reasons??? Okay I can understand that concern. But, if one was careful and used a very thin film are there any other issues. I'm not into producing massive amounts of ammo, just reloading for fun and to save a few bucks. Extra steps like wiping off the cases afterwards is not a big deal to me. Thanks for the help.

January 11, 2008, 01:39 AM	#7
Prince55 Senior Member Join Date: June 22, 2007 Posts: 472	Case lube--- A friend who has loaded shells for years swears that he has good luck with vaseline and no problems.

January 11, 2008, 11:11 AM	#10
Edward429451 Junior member Join Date: November 12, 2000 Location: Colorado Springs, Colorado Posts: 9,494	There's a guy on the castboolits board that sells homemade sizing lube that is better than Imperial and cheaper. I got 4 film canisters for a few bucks + shp. When I size 45/70 cases with imperial, I get vibration in my RC press, but when I use Bullshop lube it's smooth as silk. He goes by the handle Bullshop over there. Here's a direct link http://bullshop.gunloads.com/ Last edited by Edward429451; January 11, 2008 at 11:19 AM. Reason: insert link

January 11, 2008, 11:17 AM	#11
Mike Irwin Staff Join Date: April 14, 2000 Location: Northern Virginia Posts: 41,642	I'm reminded of Tamara's first foray into reloading in which she ended up using Wesson oil... Not Smith & Wesson oil, but Wesson cooking oil... __________________ "The gift which I am sending you is called a dog, and is in fact the most precious and valuable possession of mankind" -Theodorus Gaza Baby Jesus cries when the fat redneck doesn't have military-grade firepower.

January 11, 2008, 12:04 AM	#2
rwilson452 Senior Member Join Date: June 10, 2004 Location: Tioga co. PA Posts: 2,647	because oil can contaminate the powder. If you get any in the case it could cause a big problem.

January 11, 2008, 01:24 AM	#4
rwilson452 Senior Member Join Date: June 10, 2004 Location: Tioga co. PA Posts: 2,647	just wiping is not going to get all the oil off. it can still migrate in and ruin the powder. We don't use water based lubes because they are expensive we use them because it's the safe way to go. suit yourself but I wouldn't do it. Oh BTW if you get enough oil inside the case and it doesn't turn your round into a dud the oil could diesel when you shoot it. you might not like the result of that.

January 11, 2008, 01:32 AM	#5
Al Norris Moderator Emeritus Join Date: June 29, 2000 Location: Rupert, Idaho Posts: 9,659	45romeo, where in Idaho do you live? If it's close to me, I'm coming over to thump your head! WD40 dries to a gummy residue. Even if you wipe off the cases, even if you are so carefull that you don't get any inside the case, do you know what it will do to your dies? Get yourself some imperial sizing wax. It's not expensive and a little really goes a long ways... and you can use it just like you described using WD. Listen to rwilson452.

January 11, 2008, 01:36 AM	#6
Conservadude Member Join Date: December 13, 2004 Location: Knik, Alaska Posts: 65	Case lube is not expensive, so why try to save by using riskier products? Just get some spray-on lube that dries to become a dry lube, done. You can use a pretty light dose and it still works fine, just don't slam the shell into the sizer fast enough to heat it up and you'll be fine. Buy carbide dies and only lube every 3rd case. Save your money that way instead. Brian

January 11, 2008, 03:34 AM	#8
arkie2 Senior Member Join Date: September 3, 2006 Posts: 475	Since you didn't say, are you talking pistol or rifle brass? 'Cuz it makes a difference.

January 11, 2008, 08:11 AM	#9
Martyn4802 Senior Member Join Date: June 12, 2007 Location: Grayling, Michigan Posts: 737	Imperial Sizing Die Wax for case bodies, and powdered graphite for the case necks. No lube on case shoulders. Martyn

January 11, 2008, 11:38 AM	#12
45romeo Member Join Date: December 26, 2007 Location: Idaho Posts: 26	answers I'm reloading for .243 Win and 30-06. I've seen the reciepe for lube made from bees wax and a bunch of other stuff but thought that looked like a pain to make. I've got Lee case lube, but it was in the house where it is warm and I was out in the garage where it is cold so I tried the WD-40 on the few cases I was working with. Worked really good but I'll not to do that again. I'll clean my die out well with solvent and never use oil based lube again! I have been hand slapped! Thanks

January 11, 2008, 11:46 AM	#13
arkie2 Senior Member Join Date: September 3, 2006 Posts: 475	Next question. Are your .243 and 30-06 bolt action? 'Cuz it makes a difference.

January 11, 2008, 02:37 PM	#15
bigbird34 Senior Member Join Date: September 21, 2007 Location: N.W.Vermont Posts: 291	WD-40 Kills primers By using any light oil or penatrating oil,it will creep into the primer pocket and kill your primers dead ,it does not take much to do so,case lube does not creep ....My 2 cents ,BB34

January 11, 2008, 06:12 PM	#16
45romeo Member Join Date: December 26, 2007 Location: Idaho Posts: 26	.243 Win is Savage Model 99A lever action with rotary magaizine. 30-06 is Enfield of 1917. Sporterized. I'm not trying to, or necessary want to use oil as lube. Just trying to find out why it is not used and I am getting a good lesson in that. Last edited by 45romeo; January 11, 2008 at 06:14 PM. Reason: more thoughts

January 11, 2008, 09:21 PM	#17
arkie2 Senior Member Join Date: September 3, 2006 Posts: 475	For a bolt action you can neck resize only after you fire form the brass and not have to use any lube at all if you have the right die. It's supposed to result in better accuracy but for me the advantages of not having to lube is benefit enough. Don't know if you can neck resize only for a lever action. My guess is no but someone here will know for sure.

January 12, 2008, 07:55 AM	#18
Martyn4802 Senior Member Join Date: June 12, 2007 Location: Grayling, Michigan Posts: 737	Neck sizing is the best way to go for bench shooting. But, for hunting rounds where feeding is critical in a hunting situation, I full length size cases to insure positive, unencumbered feeding. Martyn