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#1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: June 28, 2004
Posts: 667
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rebluing 1952 Winchester 94
I'd appreciate some recommendations for professional rebluing job for this rifle.
Thanks Dave |
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#2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: September 8, 2007
Location: Mississippi
Posts: 16,380
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Unless it looks like a POS you're probably better off from a value standpoint to leave it as is.
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#3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: June 28, 2004
Posts: 667
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'94 reblue
It looks pretty good really. I just picked it up and have refinished the wood. When I removed the fore-end and the ammo tube there is some rust where the tube and action meet and some between the wood and tube. Other than that and two "dinked" up screwheads; its about 75%. I use my firearms and don't mind legit wear but these symptoms of carelessness bother me.
While I'm yappin; I was wondering if I could dis-assemble the action and "smooth" it out. It seems a little rough. Is this a job for a professional only? Thanks Dave |
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#4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: September 8, 2007
Location: Mississippi
Posts: 16,380
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Well you might as well, you've already ruined the collector value.
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#5 |
Member In Memoriam
Join Date: March 17, 1999
Posts: 24,383
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If the screws really bother you, new ones are available from www.gunpartscorp.com or you can clean up the old ones. As to disassembly, there are instructions on the net, but the 92, 95, and 94 Winchesters are not meant to be disassembled by the user. Perhaps it is the relative simplicity of the M1911 pistol that has led many folks to think that all Browning-designed guns are easily dis- and re-assembled. They are not.
(FWIW, it was the Army that forced Browning to produce a "user friendly" pistol.) Jim |
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#6 |
Member
Join Date: December 4, 2007
Posts: 47
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Model 94
Sounds like you have a nice little project, as you sound like you want a shooter. You can match the blueing with a little help from Brownells. If it is crunchy when you work the action take all the wood off and soak the insides of the gun with a good solvent, when it's really soaked give it more solvent, HA! I have a parts washer I use only for guns that pretty slick, but by hand works great. Once it has soaked for a couple of days blow it out with with air, it makes a mess. You can take your rifle apart it just takes patience and a gentle hand. Some good Punch's from Brownell's and a set of screw drivers. "Wind age & Elevation", Doc.
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#7 |
Member In Memoriam
Join Date: March 17, 1999
Posts: 24,383
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If you decide to take that rifle down, go by the instructions and remember what you do, or make notes. If you just start unscrewing screws, you will be in deep trouble. Plus, there has been a lot of useless advice given, but the most useless is "reassemble in reverse order."
Jim |
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#8 |
Senior Member
Join Date: June 28, 2004
Posts: 667
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Thanks
Thanks for the info
I found a "dis-assembly/assembly"manual for the 94 on Amazon, and will review that before any fiddling! I realize this is not a particularly sensible or practical exercise but it sure is a hell of a lot of fun! BTW, you Firingline Forum guys are great! |
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#9 |
Senior Member
Join Date: June 28, 2004
Posts: 667
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Jim Keenan and Doc
I will take notes and keep parts separated in baggies with notes...maybe even pics!\Thanks
Dave |
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#10 |
Senior Member
Join Date: December 17, 2004
Location: Boca Raton, FL
Posts: 151
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Win 94 reblue
Another alternative is to prep the gun yourself and send it out for a real hot caustic blue. I do it, as do a lot of other shops. Should cost $50-$60, you probably can find places to do it for less. I think Glenrock Blue www.gunblueing.com does it for $60, too. I have yet to find a cold blue that comes close to the real thing. Wish I could.
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#11 |
Senior Member
Join Date: June 13, 2006
Location: The great Buckeye state...where nuts are not just for eating
Posts: 623
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I have spent quite a few years disassembly/assembly of the Win 94....They are really quite simple, and the only special tools are the barrel clamp and headspace gauge. One can be totally disassembled in under 20 minutes. As far as the reblue....Good Luck !!! I have seen nothing that matches the true original look. George was right on with his suggestions....by the way Hello George !!!. One of the cheapest finishes you can do, by the way, is not a blue, but a gloss or semigloss powdercoat. A very strong and durable finish for a user....But.....polish the metal really good prior to the coating....any blemish will easily be seen. FWIW
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