1100 Sluggish Bolt Closing

BillyGoat13 · August 27, 2007, 12:51 PM

Hey guys, been awhile since I last posted here.....due to a lack of stuff tearing up. I have an older Rem. 1100 that my father gave me a few years back. He is not much of a gun nut and his idea of "Cleaning" a gun involved keeping the rust off the outside.
My problem is this: Before i completely tore down the shotgun and cleaned it, the bolt would be real sluggish in slamming back shut after firing a shell and would even show this sluggishness when loading the first shell with an open bolt. The problem is worse when the barrel is angled upwards, making me think there is something weak in the gun, maybe a spring. After i completely cleaned the gun and put it back together with light oil on the rails, it is doing the same thing, sluggish on the reload and when aimed upwards maybe not even closing at all. If aimed downwards when loading, the bolt slams shut harder and seems "normal". What do you guys think?

Ledbetter · August 27, 2007, 01:33 PM

Did you clean the inside of the spring tube (inside the stock)?

jlyent · August 27, 2007, 01:38 PM

In complete cleaning are you including the removal &cleaning of the action spring, & plunger? I have seen 1100s with the problem you described that only needed the action sprig assy. cleaned. I have several books on 1100 cleaning most of them make no mention of the action tube &components. hope this is helpful. jim
sorry Ledbetter, my typing finger is a single shot

wolverine350 · August 27, 2007, 10:18 PM

sounds like its really gummed up

VaFisher · August 28, 2007, 08:07 AM

I would have to agree removal & cleaning of the action spring, & plunger should take care of it.

James K · August 28, 2007, 11:27 AM

If you remove the action spring and its associated parts, be very careful to note the order in which the parts come out so you get them back in the same way.

Jim

BillyGoat13 · August 28, 2007, 12:53 PM

Thanx guys. I'm familiar with the parts just not so much the names.

The action spring is inside the tube in the stock, correct?

The plunger is the "tuning fork" that slides into the stock as the bolt is cycled back, correct?

If my descriptions are correct then the action spring was pretty gummy when I pulled it out the other day, but i did not think that this would affect the way it compressed too much, guess i was wrong. I read somewhere that it should measure like 15.25 inches flat on a table, anything around 14 inches should be replaced....Is that correct?

By cleaning the plunger/tuning fork do you mean just make sure it is free of rust?

island66 · September 11, 2007, 09:54 AM

The "tuning fork" thing is the link. The follower or plunger they're referring to is the little metal wine glass looking thing that fits between your link and your action spring. Make sure it's clean and free of any rust or build up. Make sure the spring is clean. Make sure the inside of the tube is clean (a .45 cal pistol brush does a pretty good job there). If you're still having issues, replace the spring.

You also need to make sure that your magazine tube is clean. Any build up on the mag tube can slow the action down. Clean with a powder solvent and a nylon brush and then follow with Rem Action cleaner or gun scrubber to remove all the solvent. Those mag tubes should be dry (no lube).

Also, make sure there are no broken or binding parts such as a fore-end support, piston, piston seal, action bars, etc.

Let me know if you have questions.

Jason

August 27, 2007, 12:51 PM	#1
BillyGoat13 Junior Member Join Date: December 6, 2006 Posts: 6	1100 Sluggish Bolt Closing Hey guys, been awhile since I last posted here.....due to a lack of stuff tearing up. I have an older Rem. 1100 that my father gave me a few years back. He is not much of a gun nut and his idea of "Cleaning" a gun involved keeping the rust off the outside. My problem is this: Before i completely tore down the shotgun and cleaned it, the bolt would be real sluggish in slamming back shut after firing a shell and would even show this sluggishness when loading the first shell with an open bolt. The problem is worse when the barrel is angled upwards, making me think there is something weak in the gun, maybe a spring. After i completely cleaned the gun and put it back together with light oil on the rails, it is doing the same thing, sluggish on the reload and when aimed upwards maybe not even closing at all. If aimed downwards when loading, the bolt slams shut harder and seems "normal". What do you guys think?

August 27, 2007, 01:33 PM	#2
Ledbetter Senior Member Join Date: February 23, 2000 Location: California USA Posts: 4,533	Did you clean the inside of the spring tube (inside the stock)? __________________ Regards, Ledbetter from thefiringline TFL #4573 NRA for Life Winchester Canyon Gun Club for Life

August 27, 2007, 01:38 PM	#3
jlyent Member Join Date: June 19, 2005 Posts: 53	In complete cleaning are you including the removal &cleaning of the action spring, & plunger? I have seen 1100s with the problem you described that only needed the action sprig assy. cleaned. I have several books on 1100 cleaning most of them make no mention of the action tube &components. hope this is helpful. jim sorry Ledbetter, my typing finger is a single shot Last edited by jlyent; August 27, 2007 at 01:40 PM. Reason: add info

August 27, 2007, 10:18 PM	#4
wolverine350 Senior Member Join Date: November 27, 2006 Location: ponca city ok Posts: 746	sounds like its really gummed up

August 28, 2007, 08:07 AM	#5
VaFisher Senior Member Join Date: January 24, 2006 Posts: 596	I would have to agree removal & cleaning of the action spring, & plunger should take care of it.

August 28, 2007, 11:27 AM	#6
James K Member In Memoriam Join Date: March 17, 1999 Posts: 24,383	If you remove the action spring and its associated parts, be very careful to note the order in which the parts come out so you get them back in the same way. Jim

August 28, 2007, 12:53 PM	#7
BillyGoat13 Junior Member Join Date: December 6, 2006 Posts: 6	Thanx guys. I'm familiar with the parts just not so much the names. The action spring is inside the tube in the stock, correct? The plunger is the "tuning fork" that slides into the stock as the bolt is cycled back, correct? If my descriptions are correct then the action spring was pretty gummy when I pulled it out the other day, but i did not think that this would affect the way it compressed too much, guess i was wrong. I read somewhere that it should measure like 15.25 inches flat on a table, anything around 14 inches should be replaced....Is that correct? By cleaning the plunger/tuning fork do you mean just make sure it is free of rust?

September 11, 2007, 09:54 AM	#8
island66 Member Join Date: June 19, 2007 Posts: 66	The "tuning fork" thing is the link. The follower or plunger they're referring to is the little metal wine glass looking thing that fits between your link and your action spring. Make sure it's clean and free of any rust or build up. Make sure the spring is clean. Make sure the inside of the tube is clean (a .45 cal pistol brush does a pretty good job there). If you're still having issues, replace the spring. You also need to make sure that your magazine tube is clean. Any build up on the mag tube can slow the action down. Clean with a powder solvent and a nylon brush and then follow with Rem Action cleaner or gun scrubber to remove all the solvent. Those mag tubes should be dry (no lube). Also, make sure there are no broken or binding parts such as a fore-end support, piston, piston seal, action bars, etc. Let me know if you have questions. Jason