Hey Duracoat guys!

briang2ad · January 14, 2006, 02:11 PM

I may get a WASR soon, and while they are parkerized (as I understand it), I am thinking of applying another coating over it. I have used Gun Kote, which is quite good, but the surface prep usually includes blasting and/or good parking. It also REQUIRES baking - which I would have to do in the family oven.

Duracoat advertizes:

"Absolutely! DuraCoat is extremely easy to apply. Anyone can do it. DuraCoat was designed for the average gun owner. Preheating, baking and blasting are not required. Expensive, space consuming equipment is not needed. Simply clean and degrease the surface prior to application. If you don't have access to an airbrush, HVLP spray gun or conventional spray gun, our EZ Airbrush (#1SAB) is all the equipment needed and sells for less than $25.00."

I know that some folks on this site have duracoated over bluing, and other "non prepped surfaces, and did not bake. How are your firearms now? Have you also used Gun Kote - which do you like better in the long haul?

Thanks.

cntryboy1289 · January 14, 2006, 03:52 PM

Brian, I blast my guns and then park them before I use the Duracoat. I have scothbrited aluminum before I painted it, but if it is steel, I always blast it and park it first.

Now, on the 10/22's that I have scotchbrited and painted, non of them have come back and said they have had paint chip off. I use a box that is set up with heat lamps that I use to oven cure the parts with. I Have a dimmer switch that allows me to control the heat and only around 120*F is required to oven cure it or you can allow it to dry over night and then it will cure within two weeks.

I would suggest that you get some scotchbrite pads and abraid the metal with them before you paint it. Anything slick will have a hard time with paint adhereing to it.

I have used Gun Kote as well and like them both. I just prefer to use the Duracoat and haven't had any bad results with it in close to 122 firearms that I have used it on.

briang2ad · January 14, 2006, 09:41 PM

ctryboy:

You mean scotchbrite the parkerization? I suppose that the WASRs are parked. I know someone over on THR gun koted over one, but did blast a few parts which had worn. I GUESS that the cheap parkerization underneath is good enough? (Of course I can hit it with kPhos also - I still have most of a can left).

Do you think Duracoat is as durable, but just needs less metal prep and baking?

cntryboy1289 · January 15, 2006, 05:06 AM

I scotchbrite aluminum and or anything that I am not going to blast and Park, the Parkerized metal will give the paint a tooth to adhere to. When I Park, the metal absorbs the paint to seal it, I don't oil it to seal like you would normally.

I really think the duracoat stands up very well to abuse. Once it is cured, it wears as tough as anything I have seen. I once took over 3 hours to blast a shotgun barrel after it had cured. I can normally blast one in 15 -20 minutes.

I have used both it and the KG Gun Kote, and I like the fact that I can use my hot box with flood lamps to heat it instead of using a heating element.

briang2ad · January 15, 2006, 06:26 PM

But - I didn't think duracoat needed heat - are you using it to have it cure faster? Thanks.

(It would be nice NOT to have to use an oven).

fourrobert13 · January 15, 2006, 07:24 PM

No it doesn't need to be heat cured. But you can to make it cure faster. 24 hours to air cure before use or 1 hour in the oven.

briang2ad · January 31, 2006, 10:04 AM

I just got an M70 Yugo underfolder. I am thinking of duracoating.

Is the parked finish enough as a prepped surface? (Don't know if they bead blasted or sand blasted or what).

I have an underfolder. I suppose I can spray in one position, cure over night, then spray in another? (The underfolder trunion is very round and really doesn't obscure the reciever much).

With Gun Kote, it can go on a little uneven and it bakes to a nice even finish - IS THIS THE SAME WITH DURACOAT???????

January 14, 2006, 03:52 PM	#2
cntryboy1289 Senior Member Join Date: July 19, 2004 Location: Ms Posts: 1,160	Little help Brian, I blast my guns and then park them before I use the Duracoat. I have scothbrited aluminum before I painted it, but if it is steel, I always blast it and park it first. Now, on the 10/22's that I have scotchbrited and painted, non of them have come back and said they have had paint chip off. I use a box that is set up with heat lamps that I use to oven cure the parts with. I Have a dimmer switch that allows me to control the heat and only around 120*F is required to oven cure it or you can allow it to dry over night and then it will cure within two weeks. I would suggest that you get some scotchbrite pads and abraid the metal with them before you paint it. Anything slick will have a hard time with paint adhereing to it. I have used Gun Kote as well and like them both. I just prefer to use the Duracoat and haven't had any bad results with it in close to 122 firearms that I have used it on.

January 14, 2006, 09:41 PM	#3
briang2ad Senior Member Join Date: December 19, 2004 Posts: 859	Thanks... ctryboy: You mean scotchbrite the parkerization? I suppose that the WASRs are parked. I know someone over on THR gun koted over one, but did blast a few parts which had worn. I GUESS that the cheap parkerization underneath is good enough? (Of course I can hit it with kPhos also - I still have most of a can left). Do you think Duracoat is as durable, but just needs less metal prep and baking?

January 15, 2006, 05:06 AM	#4
cntryboy1289 Senior Member Join Date: July 19, 2004 Location: Ms Posts: 1,160	Not quite I scotchbrite aluminum and or anything that I am not going to blast and Park, the Parkerized metal will give the paint a tooth to adhere to. When I Park, the metal absorbs the paint to seal it, I don't oil it to seal like you would normally. I really think the duracoat stands up very well to abuse. Once it is cured, it wears as tough as anything I have seen. I once took over 3 hours to blast a shotgun barrel after it had cured. I can normally blast one in 15 -20 minutes. I have used both it and the KG Gun Kote, and I like the fact that I can use my hot box with flood lamps to heat it instead of using a heating element.

January 15, 2006, 06:26 PM	#5
briang2ad Senior Member Join Date: December 19, 2004 Posts: 859	Duracoat and heat... But - I didn't think duracoat needed heat - are you using it to have it cure faster? Thanks. (It would be nice NOT to have to use an oven).

January 15, 2006, 07:24 PM	#6
fourrobert13 Senior Member Join Date: November 28, 2005 Location: South West Ohio Posts: 336	Duracoat No it doesn't need to be heat cured. But you can to make it cure faster. 24 hours to air cure before use or 1 hour in the oven.

January 14, 2006, 02:11 PM	#1
briang2ad Senior Member Join Date: December 19, 2004 Posts: 859	Hey Duracoat guys! I may get a WASR soon, and while they are parkerized (as I understand it), I am thinking of applying another coating over it. I have used Gun Kote, which is quite good, but the surface prep usually includes blasting and/or good parking. It also REQUIRES baking - which I would have to do in the family oven. Duracoat advertizes: "Absolutely! DuraCoat is extremely easy to apply. Anyone can do it. DuraCoat was designed for the average gun owner. Preheating, baking and blasting are not required. Expensive, space consuming equipment is not needed. Simply clean and degrease the surface prior to application. If you don't have access to an airbrush, HVLP spray gun or conventional spray gun, our EZ Airbrush (#1SAB) is all the equipment needed and sells for less than $25.00." I know that some folks on this site have duracoated over bluing, and other "non prepped surfaces, and did not bake. How are your firearms now? Have you also used Gun Kote - which do you like better in the long haul? Thanks.

January 31, 2006, 10:04 AM	#7
briang2ad Senior Member Join Date: December 19, 2004 Posts: 859	M70 Yugo - Duracoat? I just got an M70 Yugo underfolder. I am thinking of duracoating. Is the parked finish enough as a prepped surface? (Don't know if they bead blasted or sand blasted or what). I have an underfolder. I suppose I can spray in one position, cure over night, then spray in another? (The underfolder trunion is very round and really doesn't obscure the reciever much). With Gun Kote, it can go on a little uneven and it bakes to a nice even finish - IS THIS THE SAME WITH DURACOAT???????