Taking a Dremel tool to my trusty 1911

Steve Smith · August 7, 2000, 01:15 PM

Guys, I have a problem with the barrel hood on my 1911. My SWC's won't eject past it (like when you're done with a stage at a shoot and you're asked to "show clear". Well, it gets a little tough because the tip of the bullet moves up and hits the right side of the barrel hood, not allowing ejection. What should I do? A local pistolsmith says that I can use a dremel very slightly on that spot and cure the problem...please kep me from doing something stupid!

Jim V · August 7, 2000, 05:10 PM

OK, "Put your hands up and step away from the Dremel Tool. Keep your hands where I can see 'em, and don't move.

I get back to you later, just stay there."

What are the OAL of the rounds, within the norms for loaded .45 ammo or are they a tad long? I'd try loading the bullets a little deeper in the case, if possible, and see how they eject after that before carving on a barrel.

------------------
Ne Conjuge Nobiscum
"If there be treachery, let there be jehad!"

zot · August 7, 2000, 06:15 PM

also I had a extended ejector and couldn't
eject live rounds until I shortened it and
put a upward edge, just a thought. do you have a extended ejector?probable not so ignore my post,

**4V50 Gary** · August 7, 2000, 09:33 PM

Concur with Jim V re: Dremels. I've had one for years, but prefer to use files and stones. The Dremel is great for black powder (like cleaning up the cast lines on a flintlock's lock or for inletting the lock), but should be used sparingly and with caution on modern firearms.

George Stringer · August 8, 2000, 06:49 AM

Frontsight, I think he meant for you to chamfer the bottom edges of the hood. Just a few strokes with a fine file should take care of it. I have the feeling that you do have an extended ejector. You might shorten it or install a McCormick Tactical Ejector. It isn't quite as long as most and you still get the positive ejection that you do from an extended one. George

Steve Smith · August 8, 2000, 09:15 AM

My OAL is 1.248" kinda on the short side of normal with a 200 gr. SWC. I intentionally seated them a little shorter to help this problem. Chamfering the underside of the hood is what the guy was suggesting. SA just put a match barrel in it, and it's mighty tightly fit. I'd hate to add even the tiniest slop by allowing the rear of the barrel to move horizontally. I can chamfer the hood without adding slop, can't I? BTW, it's a SA "Loaded" so I'd imagine that it has the extended ejector. How do I shorten it? Just take a few swipes with a fine file until it works right?

August 7, 2000, 01:15 PM	#1
Steve Smith Senior Member Join Date: December 9, 1999 Posts: 4,131	Guys, I have a problem with the barrel hood on my 1911. My SWC's won't eject past it (like when you're done with a stage at a shoot and you're asked to "show clear". Well, it gets a little tough because the tip of the bullet moves up and hits the right side of the barrel hood, not allowing ejection. What should I do? A local pistolsmith says that I can use a dremel very slightly on that spot and cure the problem...please kep me from doing something stupid!

August 7, 2000, 05:10 PM	#2
Jim V Senior Member Join Date: January 31, 1999 Location: SE Michigan - USA Posts: 4,038	OK, "Put your hands up and step away from the Dremel Tool. Keep your hands where I can see 'em, and don't move. I get back to you later, just stay there." What are the OAL of the rounds, within the norms for loaded .45 ammo or are they a tad long? I'd try loading the bullets a little deeper in the case, if possible, and see how they eject after that before carving on a barrel. ------------------ *Ne Conjuge Nobiscum* "If there be treachery, let there be jehad!"

August 7, 2000, 06:15 PM	#3
zot Senior Member Join Date: April 2, 1999 Location: U.S.A. Posts: 566	also I had a extended ejector and couldn't eject live rounds until I shortened it and put a upward edge, just a thought. do you have a extended ejector?probable not so ignore my post,

August 7, 2000, 09:33 PM	#4
4V50 Gary Staff Join Date: November 2, 1998 Location: Colorado Posts: 21,877	Concur with Jim V re: Dremels. I've had one for years, but prefer to use files and stones. The Dremel is great for black powder (like cleaning up the cast lines on a flintlock's lock or for inletting the lock), but should be used sparingly and with caution on modern firearms.

August 8, 2000, 06:49 AM	#5
George Stringer Staff Alumnus Join Date: October 12, 1998 Location: Earlington KY Posts: 2,299	Frontsight, I think he meant for you to chamfer the bottom edges of the hood. Just a few strokes with a fine file should take care of it. I have the feeling that you do have an extended ejector. You might shorten it or install a McCormick Tactical Ejector. It isn't quite as long as most and you still get the positive ejection that you do from an extended one. George

August 8, 2000, 09:15 AM	#6
Steve Smith Senior Member Join Date: December 9, 1999 Posts: 4,131	My OAL is 1.248" kinda on the short side of normal with a 200 gr. SWC. I intentionally seated them a little shorter to help this problem. Chamfering the underside of the hood is what the guy was suggesting. SA just put a match barrel in it, and it's mighty tightly fit. I'd hate to add even the tiniest slop by allowing the rear of the barrel to move horizontally. I can chamfer the hood without adding slop, can't I? BTW, it's a SA "Loaded" so I'd imagine that it has the extended ejector. How do I shorten it? Just take a few swipes with a fine file until it works right?