November 21, 2008, 07:35 AM | #1 |
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Primers recommended?
What primers are advised for the following calibers?
a) 7mm rem mag b) 7mm weatherby mag c) 257 weatherby mag |
November 21, 2008, 08:35 AM | #2 |
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Other then large rifle, I cant recommend any kind of primers, each primer is differant, they work differant with each rifle and load combination. What you need to do is get a box of each, try them in your rifle, and see what works for you.
An example, in my 204 I used what was suppose to be an accurage load of benchmark powder, using brand X primer, in my rifle this brand X showed pressure signs @ 3700 FPS. I switched nothing but primers and got no presure signs and 4300 fps. It was more accurate also. Gonna have to test them and see what works in your rifle.
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November 21, 2008, 09:28 AM | #3 |
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A quick flip to Hodgdon's current guide says regular non-magnum large rifle for the 7mm Rem Mag, large rifle magnum for the 7mm Weatherby mag, and they offer no data for the .257 Weatherby mag.
For simplification purposes, you could use large rifle magnum primers in all three of them as long as you start at least 10% under max and vigilantly inspect your brass for signs of pressure as you build a load. (does .257 Weatherby mag use a large size primer? No idea.)
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November 21, 2008, 02:37 PM | #4 |
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All advice given to this point is good.
Although you will often find reccommendations for a particular type of primer for specific cartridges.... The best way to find your starting primer, is the powder. Reloading manuals sometimes address primer selection based on powder, and each one that does has a different method. My personal 'rule of thumb' is: Anything over 50 grains of powder, with a powder slower than H380; use a magnum primer. (If pressure signs emerge early, try a standard primer or 'cooler' brand of magnum primer.) |
November 21, 2008, 02:59 PM | #5 |
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Typically, I use CCI(200) and Federal(215), Remington (9.5) large rifle magnum primers for belted magnums.
When I had some issues with my rifle, the CCI were not striking and the 215M primers were, so the gunsmith adjusted the rifle. Now both primers work fine. And for my hunting ammo, I am comfortable using any of the large rifle magnum primers with my loads (which are at least a few grains below maximum.) If I do get a particular good load, then I keep the primers/brass/bullet/powder lot the same. The CCI are a little harder than the Federal, not a bad thing, just different. When I first started, I went straight off the recipes in my load books, including brass brand. For hunting ammo, I am comfortable using large rifle and large rifle magnum in my 270 Win, 7mm Mag, 8mm Mauser(8x57), and 375H&H loads. These are for year-round hunting loads in Texas. Rule of thumb, is to go back to min. load when changing components.
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November 21, 2008, 03:50 PM | #6 |
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mackillan
Do you have any/several loading manuals? If not and you are using online resources, you will miss out on a lot of the finer points of reloading. You can never have enough Reloading Books. When you use the Hodgdon site, there is no listing of primer used. If you hit the E-Mail button on the upper right, a copy of the entire load data for the cartridge you are viewing will be e-mailed to you. It will contain the primer information, but it does not show online.
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November 21, 2008, 07:35 PM | #7 |
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Follow the load data from the source of the data to the EXACT LETTER! NO DEVIATIONS. This applies to primers and more importantly case mfgr. Anything larger then the 223 you need to pay attention. You could get your self in ringer no following the data specifically. If you change a parameter, you start over and re do your load development.
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November 21, 2008, 11:08 PM | #8 | |||||
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Quote:
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Only cartridges larger???????????????????? I’ve wasted my youth on the Zipper, Bee, Hornet and Triple Duce, being sooooo careful with load development. Quote:
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OOOOHHhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh me!
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I pledge allegiance to the Flag - - -, and to the Republic for which it stands….Our Forefathers were brilliant for giving us a Republic, not a democracy! Do you know the difference??? and WHY?http://www.wallbuilders.com/LIBissue...les.asp?id=111 Last edited by Shoney; November 21, 2008 at 11:28 PM. |
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November 21, 2008, 11:15 PM | #9 |
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From what I've seen, the larger the case, the less difference the primer has on the load. I load 257 Wthby for my brother and I can mix magnum primers all day long and POI doesn't change. That's not so on a smaller case like a 223. FWIW, all I use are match primers.
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November 22, 2008, 05:51 AM | #10 |
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Well, I use Federal Match Magnum primers for mine and my son-in-law's .257 Wby Mags and they shoot GREAT!!!
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November 22, 2008, 11:48 AM | #11 |
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Shoney go do what you want.
But for a new reloader they need to keep with the specifics of load data source. Let them get their feet went and then they can rework up loads with changing one parameter at a time. Listen up Shoney my advice is rock solid! As cases get larger the swings in pressure can be significant. Case in point go try and use Hodgdon data for the 308 in some Federal Cases? Not a good deal! Shoney what works for you is gained from experience? but for the new reloader they need to stick with known factors not freelancing! What DUMB ADVICE! |
November 22, 2008, 01:43 PM | #12 | |
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Quote:
With some powders in these small cases, a 0.2 grain variation in charge weight can be the difference between a rounded primer with no pressure signs, and a trip to the hospital. Now, take those same loads and swap small rifle primers in for the small pistol primers you worked the load up with.... You'll be wishing your insurance had a dismemberment clause. Have you ever loaded a fast pistol powder for .380 Auto? In some loads, as little as 0.3 grains separates a starting load from a maximum load. With each tenth of a grain accounting for over 1,000 psi increase in pressure... serious attention must be paid to the details. Now, with the rediculously close tolerances already apparent... try taking the load you worked up in Winchester cases, and load it in Remington cases. Again... the hospital may be happy to repair the damage. What's my point? ... All cartridges can show strange pressure signs unexpectedly. Different brands of brass vary in all different cartridges. Reloading data is important. (But sometimes not available. That's where experience comes in.) All cartridges must be loaded carefully. Always start low and work up. Never swap components without reducing the load again. Start low and work up. It doesn't matter what the cartridge is. If something changes.... Start low and work up; while paying close attention to what you're doing. |
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