Stock refinishing part II

Sisco · April 29, 2002, 02:30 PM

If you read my other post, you know I got the stock stripped of varnish and ready for sanding.
Question is: Tung oil or boiled linseed oil?

STOCK REFINISHING PART III
I'm also going to have to replace the grip cap, the old one was pretty scarred up and it broke while trying to remove it.
I've seen them in the Brownells catalog, how does one get it to fit the contour of the stock? I would assume with fine grit sandpaper.

Alex Johnson · April 29, 2002, 04:45 PM

Line it up with the centerline, screw it in place and use fine files or rasps first to dress the stock down to fit it. If the cap is oversize use files to dress it down, finish with sandpaper on a hardwood backer to keep the edges flat. Still say you should look at Pilkintons finish, but if not use the tung oil. All the Linseed will do is ruin an otherwise fine piece of wood, and it will take you months to do it.

Sisco · April 29, 2002, 04:51 PM

Since I have to get a new grip cap and recoil pad I'll check into the Pilkintons while browsing the catalog.

Khornet · April 30, 2002, 03:59 PM

Pilkington all the way. And while at it, order a copy of Monty Kenedy's 'Checkering and Carving of Gunstocks', which is well worth it.

They'll tell you to mix finish 50/50 with a solvent, saturate the wood, let dry well, and sand off the whiskers it raises. Maybe do it again. Then use wet sandpaper and finish to gently sand, raising a 'mud' of sawdust and finish. Smear this evenly over the stock, let dry, then do it a gain with finer paper, working your way down to 1200 grit. This way you fill the pores as you finish; adding fillers before shortens the life of your checkering tools.

Worked great for me, lots of fun too........if I recall, the Pilkington's came with pretty good instructions too.

Now you'll want to learn to checker. Not hard, very satisfying. Try it. Good luck!

Khornet

Sisco · April 30, 2002, 04:31 PM

Too late for the Pilkingtons, after two days of sanding and prep I put the first coat of Tung oil on it.
Didn't order from Brownells, got the new Midway USA Gunsmithing catalog in the mail and they had everything I needed for less money. Got a replacement set of trigger guard screws, the grip cap and spacer and a Wolff firing pin spring for $30. Brownells wanted $25 for the grip cap. In all fairness though the cap from Brownells was metal but I really wanted a plastic one anyway.

Khornet · May 1, 2002, 06:45 AM

a pure tung oil finish on my daughter's rifle. It's real pretty. But I would use the same technique above, a wet-sanded finish with progressively finer papers.

Sisco · May 8, 2002, 12:09 PM

Got it done. Ten coats of tung oil and I must say it does look good.

April 29, 2002, 02:30 PM	#1
Sisco Senior Member Join Date: March 25, 1999 Location: KS Posts: 1,558	Stock refinishing part II If you read my other post, you know I got the stock stripped of varnish and ready for sanding. Question is: Tung oil or boiled linseed oil? STOCK REFINISHING PART III I'm also going to have to replace the grip cap, the old one was pretty scarred up and it broke while trying to remove it. I've seen them in the Brownells catalog, how does one get it to fit the contour of the stock? I would assume with fine grit sandpaper. __________________ "I don't mind it when stupid people say stupid things. Stupid people should be encouraged to say stupid things, that way we always know who the stupid people are." ~ Ted Nugent http://www.awbansunset.com/awcountdown_sm.gif

April 29, 2002, 04:45 PM	#2
Alex Johnson Senior Member Join Date: February 16, 2000 Location: Grand Forks, ND Posts: 812	Line it up with the centerline, screw it in place and use fine files or rasps first to dress the stock down to fit it. If the cap is oversize use files to dress it down, finish with sandpaper on a hardwood backer to keep the edges flat. Still say you should look at Pilkintons finish, but if not use the tung oil. All the Linseed will do is ruin an otherwise fine piece of wood, and it will take you months to do it. __________________ I thoroughly disapprove of duels. I consider them unwise and I know they are dangerous. Also, sinful. If a man should challenge me, I would take him kindly and forgivingly by the hand and lead him to a quiet retired spot and kill him. - Mark Twain

April 29, 2002, 04:51 PM	#3
Sisco Senior Member Join Date: March 25, 1999 Location: KS Posts: 1,558	Since I have to get a new grip cap and recoil pad I'll check into the Pilkintons while browsing the catalog. __________________ "I don't mind it when stupid people say stupid things. Stupid people should be encouraged to say stupid things, that way we always know who the stupid people are." ~ Ted Nugent http://www.awbansunset.com/awcountdown_sm.gif

April 30, 2002, 03:59 PM	#4
Khornet Senior Member Join Date: December 11, 2001 Location: NH Posts: 585	Stock finishing Pilkington all the way. And while at it, order a copy of Monty Kenedy's 'Checkering and Carving of Gunstocks', which is well worth it. They'll tell you to mix finish 50/50 with a solvent, saturate the wood, let dry well, and sand off the whiskers it raises. Maybe do it again. Then use wet sandpaper and finish to gently sand, raising a 'mud' of sawdust and finish. Smear this evenly over the stock, let dry, then do it a gain with finer paper, working your way down to 1200 grit. This way you fill the pores as you finish; adding fillers before shortens the life of your checkering tools. Worked great for me, lots of fun too........if I recall, the Pilkington's came with pretty good instructions too. Now you'll want to learn to checker. Not hard, very satisfying. Try it. Good luck! Khornet __________________ The M1 does MY talking!

April 30, 2002, 04:31 PM	#5
Sisco Senior Member Join Date: March 25, 1999 Location: KS Posts: 1,558	Too late for the Pilkingtons, after two days of sanding and prep I put the first coat of Tung oil on it. Didn't order from Brownells, got the new Midway USA Gunsmithing catalog in the mail and they had everything I needed for less money. Got a replacement set of trigger guard screws, the grip cap and spacer and a Wolff firing pin spring for $30. Brownells wanted $25 for the grip cap. In all fairness though the cap from Brownells was metal but I really wanted a plastic one anyway. __________________ "I don't mind it when stupid people say stupid things. Stupid people should be encouraged to say stupid things, that way we always know who the stupid people are." ~ Ted Nugent http://www.awbansunset.com/awcountdown_sm.gif

May 1, 2002, 06:45 AM	#6
Khornet Senior Member Join Date: December 11, 2001 Location: NH Posts: 585	I did a pure tung oil finish on my daughter's rifle. It's real pretty. But I would use the same technique above, a wet-sanded finish with progressively finer papers. __________________ The M1 does MY talking!

May 8, 2002, 12:09 PM	#7
Sisco Senior Member Join Date: March 25, 1999 Location: KS Posts: 1,558	Got it done. Ten coats of tung oil and I must say it does look good. __________________ "I don't mind it when stupid people say stupid things. Stupid people should be encouraged to say stupid things, that way we always know who the stupid people are." ~ Ted Nugent http://www.awbansunset.com/awcountdown_sm.gif