removing the gas tube from an AR15 front sight

Charmedlyfe · January 5, 2001, 05:33 PM

How do I do this without screwing up the tube? I guess that I'm supposed to knock out the pin in the sight base. Does the tube just pull out? I just started playing with ARs, and this is the only thing I can't do. Thanks!!!

Jordan · January 5, 2001, 06:56 PM

I've never had any trouble getting them out doing exactly that--
Drive out that pin in the front sight, scoot/wiggle the tube back into the receiver until the front can swing free of the front site, scoot/wiggle forward and out.

Use the natural bend of the tube to help clear the site on the way out and (like your high school shop teacher always said) DON'T FORCE IT. I ruined one trying to do a rush job and being rough on it.

If you get into removing the front site remember that those pins are tapered and can only be driven out one way... sorry, forget which way for sure.

Keith J · January 7, 2001, 12:31 PM

To break the powder gas fouling. Then remove the roll pin in the sight base and try to twist the tube to break the bond. Use the Brownells tool but nver a plier as it can crimp the tube. Some bases are overdrilled and a brass drift on the opposite end can be used to force it into the front sight a little, breaking the bond.

Gas tubes leak some but eventually, this is sealed.

On the removal of a front sight, the pins are driven out from right to left. The right side of the rifle is the side with the ejection port, rear sight windage adjustment etc...

You need a solid rest, solid punch cupped to fit the pin and a good hammer. For the rest, I recommend a hard lead block, about 10 lbs grooved to fit the barrel. Place this on a very heavy bench anvil for added mass. You need a SOLID rest. If this isn't available, use the lead block on a concrete slab.

Mask the surrounding area with heavy layers of electrician's tape to prevent damage to the finish. You only need to see the pins. Do not mask the side that contacts the rest as the lead will protect.

Reinstall with blue threadlocking compound on the pins.

Clean up lead smearing with Hoppes #9 and a toothbrush.

January 7, 2001, 12:31 PM	#3
Keith J Senior Member Join Date: December 15, 2000 Posts: 469	Use Hoppes To break the powder gas fouling. Then remove the roll pin in the sight base and try to twist the tube to break the bond. Use the Brownells tool but nver a plier as it can crimp the tube. Some bases are overdrilled and a brass drift on the opposite end can be used to force it into the front sight a little, breaking the bond. Gas tubes leak some but eventually, this is sealed. On the removal of a front sight, the pins are driven out from right to left. The right side of the rifle is the side with the ejection port, rear sight windage adjustment etc... You need a solid rest, solid punch cupped to fit the pin and a good hammer. For the rest, I recommend a hard lead block, about 10 lbs grooved to fit the barrel. Place this on a very heavy bench anvil for added mass. You need a SOLID rest. If this isn't available, use the lead block on a concrete slab. Mask the surrounding area with heavy layers of electrician's tape to prevent damage to the finish. You only need to see the pins. Do not mask the side that contacts the rest as the lead will protect. Reinstall with blue threadlocking compound on the pins. Clean up lead smearing with Hoppes #9 and a toothbrush.

January 5, 2001, 05:33 PM	#1
Charmedlyfe Junior member Join Date: October 11, 2000 Location: SC Posts: 799	How do I do this without screwing up the tube? I guess that I'm supposed to knock out the pin in the sight base. Does the tube just pull out? I just started playing with ARs, and this is the only thing I can't do. Thanks!!!

January 5, 2001, 06:56 PM	#2
Jordan Senior Member Join Date: February 25, 1999 Location: crow pass trail head, Eagle River, AK Posts: 228	I've never had any trouble getting them out doing exactly that-- Drive out that pin in the front sight, scoot/wiggle the tube back into the receiver until the front can swing free of the front site, scoot/wiggle forward and out. Use the natural bend of the tube to help clear the site on the way out and (like your high school shop teacher always said) DON'T FORCE IT. I ruined one trying to do a rush job and being rough on it. If you get into removing the front site remember that those pins are tapered and can only be driven out one way... sorry, forget which way for sure.