Holster-making 101

Timulator · April 15, 2006, 01:36 PM

Good holsters cost a lot of money. And if you're like me, you'll spend all that money on several holsters before you get one that you really like. Still, it's not usually a problem if you're carrying a 1911 or a J-frame S&W to find a holster to meet your needs. But what if you have a fairly odd-ball pistol like my Taurus 24/7? Or what if you're a southpaw? Or what if you're a southpaw with an odd-ball pistol?! Good luck even finding an ill-fitting holster to meet your needs.

Making your own holster answers these problems and isn't all that hard or costly to do. You probably have a commercial holster right now that you think, "If they had only made this a little bit more like that, it'd be perfect!" Well, use that holster for your basic design and make the change you want! Well, this should help get you started.

Tools you will need:

Leather punch, such as mini punch set (3003-00). Nice to also have a spring punch (3236-00) too. Be sure you get the Size 00 or 0 punch (for 1/16"~5/64" holes). The mini punch set comes with several sizes. The spring punch typically comes with Size 00.

Waxed nylon thread (25yds of black is 1227-01). Other colors are available.

A good stitching needle (such as 10pk 1195-00).

A good pair of stout scissors.

Heavy-duty snaps with snap installation tools. Keep in mind the leather is thick, so you'll need posts that are long enough to reach through the leather and into the snap sockets. Some are of a special design that will only open from one direction. Very good to use for many holster designs for the added security they can afford.

Fiebing's Spirit Leather Dye, 4oz bottle is plenty. Lots of colors are available.

Wool daubers, sometimes supplied with the dye. Be sure to ask!

Edge Kote or similar product to finish/dye the edges of the holster, the same color as the dye.

Tandy Satin Shene , 4 oz. bottle.

Mink oil paste.

A few square feet of leather, 8-9oz., which will be 8/64" to 9/64" thick.

All this stuff will cost a bit, but A) it probably won't be as much as even one quality store-bought holster and B) you"ll be able to use this stuff to make several holsters.

Tandy Leather Factory has all this stuff and you can view it and get an idea of prices online at their website (www.tandyleather.com). However, I have found better prices and better service for pretty much the same stuff from a company in Ohio called Leather Naturally. Nice guys, Joe and his wife. My only affiliation with him is that I know him from a military vehicle Internet board. I get no benefit if you order from him or anything, but I know he'll be able to help you with details and questions that a large company like Tandy wouldn't. Joe's website is http://www.leathernaturally.com/. I see he's expanded his website recently and has a lot of product lists and such. Okay, let's get started!

(Continued as Holster-making 102)

April 15, 2006, 01:36 PM	#1
Timulator Member Join Date: December 31, 2004 Location: Kitsap County, Washington state Posts: 48	Holster-making 101 Good holsters cost a lot of money. And if you're like me, you'll spend all that money on several holsters before you get one that you really like. Still, it's not usually a problem if you're carrying a 1911 or a J-frame S&W to find a holster to meet your needs. But what if you have a fairly odd-ball pistol like my Taurus 24/7? Or what if you're a southpaw? Or what if you're a southpaw with an odd-ball pistol?! Good luck even finding an ill-fitting holster to meet your needs. Making your own holster answers these problems and isn't all that hard or costly to do. You probably have a commercial holster right now that you think, "If they had only made this a little bit more like that, it'd be perfect!" Well, use that holster for your basic design and make the change you want! Well, this should help get you started. Tools you will need: Leather punch, such as mini punch set (3003-00). Nice to also have a spring punch (3236-00) too. Be sure you get the Size 00 or 0 punch (for 1/16"~5/64" holes). The mini punch set comes with several sizes. The spring punch typically comes with Size 00. Waxed nylon thread (25yds of black is 1227-01). Other colors are available. A good stitching needle (such as 10pk 1195-00). A good pair of stout scissors. Heavy-duty snaps with snap installation tools. Keep in mind the leather is thick, so you'll need posts that are long enough to reach through the leather and into the snap sockets. Some are of a special design that will only open from one direction. Very good to use for many holster designs for the added security they can afford. Fiebing's Spirit Leather Dye, 4oz bottle is plenty. Lots of colors are available. Wool daubers, sometimes supplied with the dye. Be sure to ask! Edge Kote or similar product to finish/dye the edges of the holster, the same color as the dye. Tandy Satin Shene , 4 oz. bottle. Mink oil paste. A few square feet of leather, 8-9oz., which will be 8/64" to 9/64" thick. All this stuff will cost a bit, but A) it probably won't be as much as even one quality store-bought holster and B) you"ll be able to use this stuff to make several holsters. Tandy Leather Factory has all this stuff and you can view it and get an idea of prices online at their website (www.tandyleather.com). However, I have found better prices and better service for pretty much the same stuff from a company in Ohio called Leather Naturally. Nice guys, Joe and his wife. My only affiliation with him is that I know him from a military vehicle Internet board. I get no benefit if you order from him or anything, but I know he'll be able to help you with details and questions that a large company like Tandy wouldn't. Joe's website is http://www.leathernaturally.com/. I see he's expanded his website recently and has a lot of product lists and such. Okay, let's get started! (Continued as Holster-making 102)