Kibler Kit - Page 2

Hawg · January 23, 2024, 02:28 PM

I've got a coat of Tru Oil on it and it brought the figure back out. So far it's looking pretty good.

A couple of pics of the first oil coat. I figure about five more.

HiBC · January 24, 2024, 12:56 AM

When you use that stain you `lightly sand after.
The curlies and stripes are wavy grain. The stain hits side grain and end grain.
It penetrates the end grain deeper. Less deep on the side grain

So when you sand some of the "cinnamon"off you develop contrast and the stripes will jump out.

Can you find some scraps of curly maple for staining experiments?

Its been a long time...After sanding for contrast, I used a Feibling alcohol based leather dye . I don't recall the shade name but it MIGHT be Medium Gold.

Used test wood to develop just what you want.

The leather dye gives the light wood a warm glow. It can take a light,fine sanding

A red eraser makes a nice sanding block.

Please use some test wood to develop the finish. You want to know where you are going before you get there.
-----------------------------------------------------------
OK,while I was writing you made a new post. You have already started with the oil.
I think additional staining is now questionable.

Its looking good!!

Hawg · January 24, 2024, 06:12 AM

Little too late for all of that. I put two coats of iron nitrate and burnished it with a piece of denim. It already has one coat of oil on it. I'll put another coat and sand it enough to break the gloss.

Hawg · February 21, 2024, 06:34 PM

I haven't updated this for awhile. Two problems. I had the ramrod fitting perfectly fitting before I stained and oiled it. I didn't get any stain or oil in the hole but now the ramrod doesn't fit. Not even the tapered steel tip will go in. I tried filing it down but realized there wasn't enough steel to file it down that far. So I'll work the other end down and let the tip show. The worst part tho is the lock. I didn't think a single trigger would have a fly but it did. I say did because I lost it. When I put the lock back together I tripped it out of the stock. Doing that it hit the half cock notch and broke the tip off of the sear. A retired master builder told me I could stone the tip and might be able to bend the tip of the spring to contact the frizzen but true to my nature I broke it. So now I have to get a new sear, spring and fly. I dis get it all together except for the ramrod and replacing the broken lock parts. Mistakes were made and I may fix some of them later on but probably won't.

Deltadart · February 21, 2024, 07:25 PM

I like it.

HiBC · February 21, 2024, 08:45 PM

Looks great to me!
Might Kibler sell lock parts? I'd guess folks in the kit biz might.

Hawg · February 21, 2024, 08:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HiBC

Looks great to me!
Might Kibler sell lock parts?

I'm pretty sure he does. I know he copied a chambers lock but I don't know if the parts interchange. I made mistskes

and a few screwups but nothing that can't be fixed. I'm just tired of working on it.

**4V50 Gary** · February 24, 2024, 09:27 AM

Have you re-drilled the ramrod hole? The wood swelled with the stain.

Hawg · February 24, 2024, 09:44 AM

I've got nothing to actually redrill it. I chucked the ramrod up in a drill and ran the metal tipped end down and got it in until it bottomed out. I worked it back and forth maybe ten times, I wasn't counting. It was still tight and I couldn't pull it back out without the drill. I chucked the metal tip up in the drill and ran the big end down until it bottomed out and then worked it back and forth. It fit better but it was still tight but at least I could pull it back out without the drill. I chucked the ramrod up in the drill and hit the tip and about 12 inches of rod with a coarse file. Then I hit it with a piece of coarse emery cloth and some 220 grit sandpaper. Now it fits like it should. I'm going to wait until I work up a load for it before I cut it off.

ligonierbill · February 24, 2024, 01:08 PM

Not unusual to have the ramrod too tight. Better than too loose, and you did the right thing. Nice looking rifle! When you smell the sulphur and put a ball through the black, you'll forget all the trials and tribulations.

**4V50 Gary** · February 25, 2024, 03:46 PM

I dry sanded a once fitting ramrod to make it fit again. Dunno how much sanding you can do on that metal.

Hawg · February 25, 2024, 04:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 4V50 Gary

I dry sanded a once fitting ramrod to make it fit again. Dunno how much sanding you can do on that metal.

Read post #34

January 23, 2024, 02:28 PM	#26
Hawg Senior Member Join Date: September 8, 2007 Location: Mississippi Posts: 16,190	I've got a coat of Tru Oil on it and it brought the figure back out. So far it's looking pretty good. A couple of pics of the first oil coat. I figure about five more. Last edited by Hawg; January 23, 2024 at 03:26 PM.

January 24, 2024, 12:56 AM	#27
HiBC Senior Member Join Date: November 13, 2006 Posts: 8,289	When you use that stain you `lightly sand after. The curlies and stripes are wavy grain. The stain hits side grain and end grain. It penetrates the end grain deeper. Less deep on the side grain So when you sand some of the "cinnamon"off you develop contrast and the stripes will jump out. Can you find some scraps of curly maple for staining experiments? Its been a long time...After sanding for contrast, I used a Feibling alcohol based leather dye . I don't recall the shade name but it MIGHT be Medium Gold. Used test wood to develop just what you want. The leather dye gives the light wood a warm glow. It can take a light,fine sanding A red eraser makes a nice sanding block. Please use some test wood to develop the finish. You want to know where you are going before you get there. ----------------------------------------------------------- OK,while I was writing you made a new post. You have already started with the oil. I think additional staining is now questionable. Its looking good!! Last edited by HiBC; January 24, 2024 at 01:14 AM.

February 24, 2024, 09:27 AM	#33
4V50 Gary Staff Join Date: November 2, 1998 Location: Colorado Posts: 21,848	Have you re-drilled the ramrod hole? The wood swelled with the stain. __________________ Vigilantibus et non dormientibus jura subveniunt. *Molon Labe!*

February 25, 2024, 03:46 PM	#36
4V50 Gary Staff Join Date: November 2, 1998 Location: Colorado Posts: 21,848	I dry sanded a once fitting ramrod to make it fit again. Dunno how much sanding you can do on that metal. __________________ Vigilantibus et non dormientibus jura subveniunt. *Molon Labe!*

January 24, 2024, 06:12 AM	#28
Hawg Senior Member Join Date: September 8, 2007 Location: Mississippi Posts: 16,190	Little too late for all of that. I put two coats of iron nitrate and burnished it with a piece of denim. It already has one coat of oil on it. I'll put another coat and sand it enough to break the gloss.

February 21, 2024, 06:34 PM	#29
Hawg Senior Member Join Date: September 8, 2007 Location: Mississippi Posts: 16,190	I haven't updated this for awhile. Two problems. I had the ramrod fitting perfectly fitting before I stained and oiled it. I didn't get any stain or oil in the hole but now the ramrod doesn't fit. Not even the tapered steel tip will go in. I tried filing it down but realized there wasn't enough steel to file it down that far. So I'll work the other end down and let the tip show. The worst part tho is the lock. I didn't think a single trigger would have a fly but it did. I say did because I lost it. When I put the lock back together I tripped it out of the stock. Doing that it hit the half cock notch and broke the tip off of the sear. A retired master builder told me I could stone the tip and might be able to bend the tip of the spring to contact the frizzen but true to my nature I broke it. So now I have to get a new sear, spring and fly. I dis get it all together except for the ramrod and replacing the broken lock parts. Mistakes were made and I may fix some of them later on but probably won't.

February 21, 2024, 07:25 PM	#30
Deltadart Senior Member Join Date: April 26, 2015 Location: Washington State Posts: 286	I like it.

February 21, 2024, 08:45 PM	#31
HiBC Senior Member Join Date: November 13, 2006 Posts: 8,289	Looks great to me! Might Kibler sell lock parts? I'd guess folks in the kit biz might.

February 24, 2024, 09:44 AM	#34
Hawg Senior Member Join Date: September 8, 2007 Location: Mississippi Posts: 16,190	I've got nothing to actually redrill it. I chucked the ramrod up in a drill and ran the metal tipped end down and got it in until it bottomed out. I worked it back and forth maybe ten times, I wasn't counting. It was still tight and I couldn't pull it back out without the drill. I chucked the metal tip up in the drill and ran the big end down until it bottomed out and then worked it back and forth. It fit better but it was still tight but at least I could pull it back out without the drill. I chucked the ramrod up in the drill and hit the tip and about 12 inches of rod with a coarse file. Then I hit it with a piece of coarse emery cloth and some 220 grit sandpaper. Now it fits like it should. I'm going to wait until I work up a load for it before I cut it off.

February 24, 2024, 01:08 PM	#35
ligonierbill Senior Member Join Date: May 20, 2007 Posts: 2,459	Not unusual to have the ramrod too tight. Better than too loose, and you did the right thing. Nice looking rifle! When you smell the sulphur and put a ball through the black, you'll forget all the trials and tribulations.