finally bought one.... have questions?

bamaranger · February 11, 2023, 07:57 PM

I have been fascinated with the 1860 Colt percussion revolver since I was a kid.
The local hardware store had metal, non firing replicas that they would allow me to handle at grade school age. Also, my folks bought me the "Big Book of Guns" which had a picture of an 1860 hanging from a nail on a board sided wall on the cover.

Monday I made an offer at a local shop on a used Pietta, and walked out with my first and very own 1860. A .454 RB mold is on order. I've taken the revolver down to the screws, quite a bit of gunk in the works, a mild amount of rust in the bore. Some work and the revolver cleaned up OK. A wee bit of stone work too, then a proper lube job, and the revolver operates a good bit more crisply.

The OEM cones appeared lightly rusted, and are in there solid, and will require a proper stout tool, and likely some soaking and maybe heat. I would like to replace them at some point with Tresco's or Slick Shots.

Caps may be an issue. I have a good supply of #11's from assorted makers, but I read what I really should have are #10's. Found some online, but would rather not have to pay the hazmat fee. Can I get by with #11's for just casual shooting?

Pahoo · February 11, 2023, 08:08 PM

Quote:

Can I get by with #11's for just casual shooting?

Have to say; at your own risk and some folks have done this. If the cones you are talking about, which are nipples take a #10, then you should stick with #10s. There is just too many chances where this will not work. For starters, the #11's will fall off nad get hung up. Then there is the possibility of chain-firing and that can get ugly. ....

Be Safe !!!

l.cutler · February 12, 2023, 04:04 AM

You can test fit the #11 caps, some brands run smaller than others. Some revolver nipples also vary in size. My Armi San Marco 1860 army uses #11, #10's won't even go on the nipples.

eastbank · February 12, 2023, 11:56 AM

my first black powder revolvers were a rem 58 copy and a 1860(both steel framed) copy and i shot them to near death, i liked each for different reasons and found them to fine revolvers from the civil war era. i hope you enjoy your 1860 as much as i enjoyed mine.

Pahoo · February 12, 2023, 02:31 PM

bamaranger
Might I suggest, searching for a spare set of nipple that will accept your #11's. I know that in the past, I was lucky enough to find some. It will be a hit and miss search but Pietta might just have what you need. The threads will be metric. Check for stores that support our great advanture; like Dixie or Track-of the wolf and others. It's been awhile but the last set I bought, cost me about $8.00. They were not for Piettas. ......

Be Safe !!!

Hawg · February 12, 2023, 03:03 PM

You can pinch fit the number 11's. I have tried to get a chain fire from the nipple end and can't do it. Even if you do get one there's nothing ugly about them. The only one with any force behind it is the one that goes down the bore. The worst that will happen is your wrist and lower arm may get peppered with exploding cap fragments but they seldom bring blood.

**4V50 Gary** · February 12, 2023, 08:52 PM

Find out. Every mfg has slightly different tolerances for their nipples. Use a micrometer and measure each one.

Hellgate · February 12, 2023, 10:52 PM

Geeze, this drives me nuts. When someone says YOU NEED #!0 CAPS it is completely misleading. A #10 RWS cap is so small it won't fit any current or past C&B revolver I'm aware of. The #10 REMINGTON is the most versatile cap out there and will fit the widest variety of nipple shapes of any cap I've seen. The CCI #11 is a smaller cap than the Remington #10 as is the CCI#10 which is even smaller. Unless your revolver has a hammer fall like a Dragoon they will likely not go off with the first blow. The RWS#11 is much like the CCI #11 in size (nipple fit) and hardness. I currently own about 16 C&B revolvers of various makes and models. I've owned about 35 over the years. Of the 16 I have I make sure they all will take the Remington #10 caps by swapping out the nipples with Track of the Wolf, Butler Creek or Slix-Shots. About a third will accept the RWS #1075 (often referred to as a #11) and another 1/3 will take the CCI#11. Those 3 caps are pretty close in size (Rem 10, RWS 1075, & CCI 11). NONE of my guns will take anything called a #10 unless it is a Remington cap. The Remington #11s fall off virtually all my guns as they are too big. So, when you say "#10 cap" you absolutely NEED to specify whose cap you are talking about or else you are misleading someone into getting the wrong size cap. Be specific when recommending caps. The big problem for me right now is the Remington #10s are like unobtanium: nowhere to be found so I will go to the CCI/Winchester #11s that fit some of my guns.

FrankenMauser · February 13, 2023, 02:34 AM

I'm not sure what the above wall of encrypted code is saying, but I do know that caps and nipples vary (wildly).
See if you can run what you've got, and go from there.

I have Pietta 1860 and it says I should use a certain brand of #10s. I hate to break it to the internet, but I am using a different brand of #11s.

gwpercle · February 13, 2023, 11:41 AM

Here is a little hint ... squeeze the #11's so they stay put ... in 1965 Baton Rouge you could never get the right size and were glad to get #11's .
Just use thumb and forefinger and give them a little pinch on two sides .
When shooting pay attention to parts of fired caps dropping intp action and if caps keep falling of ... squeeze them tighter .
Soak cylinder/nipples in Kerosene or atomatic transmission fluid and acetone 50-50 mix ...best penetrating oil you will ever find .
Gary
Where ther's a will ... there's a way

Hawg · February 13, 2023, 01:25 PM

CCI #10's are snug on my stock nipples but they're not hard to fully seat. CCI #11's are a tad loose. I can't get a CCI #10 to seat on the #11 nipple on my Hawken rifle. They will split first.

JimCunn · February 13, 2023, 02:21 PM

I've blown the barrel off an 1860 replica with a 6-round chainfire. Twice.

**4V50 Gary** · February 13, 2023, 05:16 PM

Snug caps are important. No fun with two chainfires.

bamaranger · February 13, 2023, 09:51 PM

I had no idea that dimensions on percussion caps was so diverse. Over the years I simply bought a tin of "#11"'s from where ever I found them, regardless of who manufactured them, and used them on my three caplock rifles w/o complication, so far anyhow.

I was under the impression that #11 caps were for rifles, and #10 for revolvers, and that the whole system was rather standardized, much like centerfire/metallic primers. Appears I was mistaken..........

I checked in my BP accessory box and I have 800+ #11 caps on hand. Half or more are Rem#11, then 200 Win BP "magnums", then 200 CCI. I can't say what is in my capper presently, but those caps are loose on my Pietta 1860. I will check the lot of them on the factory nipples at some point in the near future.

The Lee .495 RB mold has arrived and production anticipated soon as well.

bamaranger · February 13, 2023, 11:33 PM

.454" mold........not .495

Hawg · February 14, 2023, 01:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JimCunn

I've blown the barrel off an 1860 replica with a 6-round chainfire. Twice.

How? Did you fire it without the wedge installed?

Pahoo · February 14, 2023, 12:56 PM

Quote:

I had no idea that dimensions on percussion caps was so diverse.

Not sure what you mean by diverse. All Caps vary in tolerances and all are in a "range". each range will be accepted by the taper of the "cone" nipple. The comes close to bottoning out although many shooters give each cap a thumb press. It really does not matter the hammer cup will force the cap to ignite. So, there "may" be a tolerance difference between an RWS and Winchester but still in be a #11. ....

Just occured to me that this is why they call them caps, as opposed to primers, although I have never read that??? You cap nipples

Be Safe !!!

bamaranger · February 16, 2023, 12:07 AM

All these accounts of "some fit, some don't" seems non standardized to me.
I suppose the variation could be in the nipples/cones themselves.

I spent a bit of time with the Pietta 1860 and the caps I have on hand. The
Rem #11 sure seem snug to me. So much so that I cannot snick them off with a fingernail and must use a small set of needlenose pliers to remove the live caps. I pushed them on using the eraser end of a #2 pencil.

I will watch for #10 caps in my travels, I saw both 11's and 10's while out of state over Thanksgiving (but foolishly did not buy.....but I did not own the revolver then either)

44caliberkid · February 20, 2023, 10:55 AM

Yes, there is a lot of variation in Italian nipples, almost like they start with a clean sheet of paper for every production run. A common problem with Star reproductions was the inside curve of the hammer hit the frame before it hit the nipple and wouldn’t detonate the cap. Some people ground out the inside curve of the hammer so it dropped farther and hit the nipple first. Having replaced a bunch of Italian nips with Tresso’s or Slix Shot, I had dozens of Italian nipples on hand. I removed the Star’s stock nipples and compared them to all my others. Laying side by side it was obvious, even to the naked eye, that the cones varied in length (height) and taper and diameter. Some cones had almost no taper while some were almost rocket nose cones. I picked the 6 longest ones, installed them in the Star and it worked perfectly, without any grinding on my new revolver.
The reason to switch to Tresso or Slix Shot is because they are made to consistent dimensions, so once you find the perfect cap, you’re good to go.
With 50 years experience shooting cap n ball revolvers (30 in CAS) I don’t believe that caps are manufactured to any specific standard either. The only rule I know is, what fits yours, fits yours.

February 12, 2023, 02:31 PM	#5
Pahoo Senior Member Join Date: February 16, 2006 Location: IOWA Posts: 8,783	Suggesting a replacement set bamaranger Might I suggest, searching for a spare set of nipple that will accept your #11's. I know that in the past, I was lucky enough to find some. It will be a hit and miss search but Pietta might just have what you need. The threads will be metric. Check for stores that support our great advanture; like Dixie or Track-of the wolf and others. It's been awhile but the last set I bought, cost me about $8.00. They were not for Piettas. ...... Be Safe !!! __________________ 'Fundamental truths' are easy to recognize because they are verified daily through simple observation and thus, require no testing.

February 12, 2023, 08:52 PM	#7
4V50 Gary Staff Join Date: November 2, 1998 Location: Colorado Posts: 21,848	Find out. Every mfg has slightly different tolerances for their nipples. Use a micrometer and measure each one. __________________ Vigilantibus et non dormientibus jura subveniunt. *Molon Labe!*

February 12, 2023, 10:52 PM	#8
Hellgate Senior Member Join Date: November 18, 2010 Location: Orygun Posts: 869	Geeze, this drives me nuts. When someone says YOU NEED #!0 CAPS it is completely misleading. A #10 RWS cap is so small it won't fit any current or past C&B revolver I'm aware of. The #10 REMINGTON is the most versatile cap out there and will fit the widest variety of nipple shapes of any cap I've seen. The CCI #11 is a smaller cap than the Remington #10 as is the CCI#10 which is even smaller. Unless your revolver has a hammer fall like a Dragoon they will likely not go off with the first blow. The RWS#11 is much like the CCI #11 in size (nipple fit) and hardness. I currently own about 16 C&B revolvers of various makes and models. I've owned about 35 over the years. Of the 16 I have I make sure they all will take the Remington #10 caps by swapping out the nipples with Track of the Wolf, Butler Creek or Slix-Shots. About a third will accept the RWS #1075 (often referred to as a #11) and another 1/3 will take the CCI#11. Those 3 caps are pretty close in size (Rem 10, RWS 1075, & CCI 11). NONE of my guns will take anything called a #10 unless it is a Remington cap. The Remington #11s fall off virtually all my guns as they are too big. So, when you say "#10 cap" you absolutely NEED to specify whose cap you are talking about or else you are misleading someone into getting the wrong size cap. Be specific when recommending caps. The big problem for me right now is the Remington #10s are like unobtanium: nowhere to be found so I will go to the CCI/Winchester #11s that fit some of my guns. __________________ With over 15 perCUSSIN' revolvers, I've been called the Imelda Marcos of cap & ball. SASS#3302 (Life), SASS Regulator, NRA (Life), Dirty Gamey Bastards #129 Wolverton Mtn. Peacekeepers (WA), former Orygun Cowboy (Ranger, Posse from Hell)

February 13, 2023, 02:34 AM	#9
FrankenMauser Senior Member Join Date: August 25, 2008 Location: In the valley above the plain Posts: 13,427	I'm not sure what the above wall of encrypted code is saying, but I do know that caps and nipples vary (wildly). See if you can run what you've got, and go from there. I have Pietta 1860 and it says I should use a certain brand of #10s. I hate to break it to the internet, but I am using a different brand of #11s. __________________ Don't even try it. It's even worse than the internet would lead you to believe.

February 13, 2023, 05:16 PM	#13
4V50 Gary Staff Join Date: November 2, 1998 Location: Colorado Posts: 21,848	Snug caps are important. No fun with two chainfires. __________________ Vigilantibus et non dormientibus jura subveniunt. *Molon Labe!*

February 11, 2023, 07:57 PM	#1
bamaranger Senior Member Join Date: October 9, 2009 Location: North Alabama Posts: 8,318	finally bought one.... have questions? I have been fascinated with the 1860 Colt percussion revolver since I was a kid. The local hardware store had metal, non firing replicas that they would allow me to handle at grade school age. Also, my folks bought me the "Big Book of Guns" which had a picture of an 1860 hanging from a nail on a board sided wall on the cover. Monday I made an offer at a local shop on a used Pietta, and walked out with my first and very own 1860. A .454 RB mold is on order. I've taken the revolver down to the screws, quite a bit of gunk in the works, a mild amount of rust in the bore. Some work and the revolver cleaned up OK. A wee bit of stone work too, then a proper lube job, and the revolver operates a good bit more crisply. The OEM cones appeared lightly rusted, and are in there solid, and will require a proper stout tool, and likely some soaking and maybe heat. I would like to replace them at some point with Tresco's or Slick Shots. Caps may be an issue. I have a good supply of #11's from assorted makers, but I read what I really should have are #10's. Found some online, but would rather not have to pay the hazmat fee. Can I get by with #11's for just casual shooting?

February 12, 2023, 04:04 AM	#3
l.cutler Senior Member Join Date: October 18, 2005 Posts: 275	You can test fit the #11 caps, some brands run smaller than others. Some revolver nipples also vary in size. My Armi San Marco 1860 army uses #11, #10's won't even go on the nipples.

February 12, 2023, 11:56 AM	#4
eastbank Senior Member Join Date: February 7, 2008 Location: pa. Posts: 2,450	my first black powder revolvers were a rem 58 copy and a 1860(both steel framed) copy and i shot them to near death, i liked each for different reasons and found them to fine revolvers from the civil war era. i hope you enjoy your 1860 as much as i enjoyed mine.

February 12, 2023, 03:03 PM	#6
Hawg Senior Member Join Date: September 8, 2007 Location: Mississippi Posts: 16,190	You can pinch fit the number 11's. I have tried to get a chain fire from the nipple end and can't do it. Even if you do get one there's nothing ugly about them. The only one with any force behind it is the one that goes down the bore. The worst that will happen is your wrist and lower arm may get peppered with exploding cap fragments but they seldom bring blood.

February 13, 2023, 11:41 AM	#10
gwpercle Senior Member Join Date: November 30, 2012 Location: Baton Rouge, Louisiana Posts: 1,752	Here is a little hint ... squeeze the #11's so they stay put ... in 1965 Baton Rouge you could never get the right size and were glad to get #11's . Just use thumb and forefinger and give them a little pinch on two sides . When shooting pay attention to parts of fired caps dropping intp action and if caps keep falling of ... squeeze them tighter . Soak cylinder/nipples in Kerosene or atomatic transmission fluid and acetone 50-50 mix ...best penetrating oil you will ever find . Gary Where ther's a will ... there's a way

February 13, 2023, 01:25 PM	#11
Hawg Senior Member Join Date: September 8, 2007 Location: Mississippi Posts: 16,190	CCI #10's are snug on my stock nipples but they're not hard to fully seat. CCI #11's are a tad loose. I can't get a CCI #10 to seat on the #11 nipple on my Hawken rifle. They will split first.

February 13, 2023, 02:21 PM	#12
JimCunn Senior Member Join Date: April 6, 2019 Posts: 124	I've blown the barrel off an 1860 replica with a 6-round chainfire. Twice.

February 13, 2023, 09:51 PM	#14
bamaranger Senior Member Join Date: October 9, 2009 Location: North Alabama Posts: 8,318	caps I had no idea that dimensions on percussion caps was so diverse. Over the years I simply bought a tin of "#11"'s from where ever I found them, regardless of who manufactured them, and used them on my three caplock rifles w/o complication, so far anyhow. I was under the impression that #11 caps were for rifles, and #10 for revolvers, and that the whole system was rather standardized, much like centerfire/metallic primers. Appears I was mistaken.......... I checked in my BP accessory box and I have 800+ #11 caps on hand. Half or more are Rem#11, then 200 Win BP "magnums", then 200 CCI. I can't say what is in my capper presently, but those caps are loose on my Pietta 1860. I will check the lot of them on the factory nipples at some point in the near future. The Lee .495 RB mold has arrived and production anticipated soon as well.

February 13, 2023, 11:33 PM	#15
bamaranger Senior Member Join Date: October 9, 2009 Location: North Alabama Posts: 8,318	oops .454" mold........not .495

February 16, 2023, 12:07 AM	#18
bamaranger Senior Member Join Date: October 9, 2009 Location: North Alabama Posts: 8,318	diverse All these accounts of "some fit, some don't" seems non standardized to me. I suppose the variation could be in the nipples/cones themselves. I spent a bit of time with the Pietta 1860 and the caps I have on hand. The Rem #11 sure seem snug to me. So much so that I cannot snick them off with a fingernail and must use a small set of needlenose pliers to remove the live caps. I pushed them on using the eraser end of a #2 pencil. I will watch for #10 caps in my travels, I saw both 11's and 10's while out of state over Thanksgiving (but foolishly did not buy.....but I did not own the revolver then either)

February 20, 2023, 10:55 AM	#19
44caliberkid Senior Member Join Date: May 15, 2017 Location: Iowa Posts: 1,104	Yes, there is a lot of variation in Italian nipples, almost like they start with a clean sheet of paper for every production run. A common problem with Star reproductions was the inside curve of the hammer hit the frame before it hit the nipple and wouldn’t detonate the cap. Some people ground out the inside curve of the hammer so it dropped farther and hit the nipple first. Having replaced a bunch of Italian nips with Tresso’s or Slix Shot, I had dozens of Italian nipples on hand. I removed the Star’s stock nipples and compared them to all my others. Laying side by side it was obvious, even to the naked eye, that the cones varied in length (height) and taper and diameter. Some cones had almost no taper while some were almost rocket nose cones. I picked the 6 longest ones, installed them in the Star and it worked perfectly, without any grinding on my new revolver. The reason to switch to Tresso or Slix Shot is because they are made to consistent dimensions, so once you find the perfect cap, you’re good to go. With 50 years experience shooting cap n ball revolvers (30 in CAS) I don’t believe that caps are manufactured to any specific standard either. The only rule I know is, what fits yours, fits yours.