Stuck screw

dahermit · February 15, 2016, 03:19 PM

I just got an older K38 in very good condition (seems hardly used), today. It is so old that it has a cylinder stop screw. Very excited to get it, but there is one problem...the crowned side plate screw that holds the cylinder in the frame appears to be stuck. Stuck to the point where vigorous tapping with a nylon hammer on the end of a proper fitting screw driver does not seem to want to loosen it. I feel that the amount of turning force I have already used is bordering on excessive. I am afraid of snapping one side of the screw head off or at least buggering-up the screw head.
I suspect, but have no real reason to conclude that some previous owner used Red Locktite or something on the threads...but that is just a guess. I was thinking about heating the screw head with a soldering iron but am worried about screwing up the bluing in that area, so I figured I should check-in here for some input on loosening that screw without wrecking anything.

Bill DeShivs · February 15, 2016, 03:46 PM

A soldering iron won't get the screw hot enough to hurt the bluing.
Even if there isn't Locktite on the threads, heat can help break it loose. I suggest penetrating oil for at least a day, then heat.

James K · February 15, 2016, 08:36 PM

If all else fails:

Get a screwdriver bit of the right size. (The stubby kind used in power drivers.)

Chuck it into your drill press.

Pad the drill press table or vise well. Lay the gun on the padding with the troublesome screw head upward.

Maneuver the table and the chuck until you can bring the chuck down so the driver bit fits into the screw slot. If necessary, have someone else hold the gun and keep it in position.

Hold the chuck down with the drill press lever and turn the chuck by hand (no power), turning it back and forth. If that doesn't break the screw loose, then back to the heat method or even drilling it out.

Jim

AzShooter · February 16, 2016, 02:33 AM

Use Liquid Wrench and let it sit overnight. It should loosen any stubborn screw on your revolver.

dahermit · February 16, 2016, 05:47 AM

The screw came loose after a soaking for several hours in a 50-50 mixture of Dextron Automatic Transmission Fluid and Acetone. I did not have to resort to heat after all. Thanks for the input.

**4V50 Gary** · February 16, 2016, 09:30 AM

Victory!

dahermit · February 16, 2016, 01:01 PM

Quote:

Sounds like it was gummed up

Yeah. According to the serial number thread here, it was manufactured in 1959. When I got the side plate off, it was totally dry inside...I do not think the side plate has been off since 1959 and shot much at all. Very little wear mark from the bolt around the cylinder or much other indications of use.

February 15, 2016, 03:19 PM	#1
dahermit Senior Member Join Date: October 28, 2006 Location: South Central Michigan...near Posts: 6,501	Stuck screw I just got an older K38 in very good condition (seems hardly used), today. It is so old that it has a cylinder stop screw. Very excited to get it, but there is one problem...the crowned side plate screw that holds the cylinder in the frame appears to be stuck. Stuck to the point where vigorous tapping with a nylon hammer on the end of a proper fitting screw driver does not seem to want to loosen it. I feel that the amount of turning force I have already used is bordering on excessive. I am afraid of snapping one side of the screw head off or at least buggering-up the screw head. I suspect, but have no real reason to conclude that some previous owner used Red Locktite or something on the threads...but that is just a guess. I was thinking about heating the screw head with a soldering iron but am worried about screwing up the bluing in that area, so I figured I should check-in here for some input on loosening that screw without wrecking anything.

February 15, 2016, 03:46 PM	#2
Bill DeShivs Senior Member Join Date: April 7, 2006 Posts: 10,987	A soldering iron won't get the screw hot enough to hurt the bluing. Even if there isn't Locktite on the threads, heat can help break it loose. I suggest penetrating oil for at least a day, then heat. __________________ Bill DeShivs, Master Cutler www.billdeshivs.com

February 16, 2016, 09:30 AM	#6
4V50 Gary Staff Join Date: November 2, 1998 Location: Colorado Posts: 21,843	Sounds like it was gummed up Victory! __________________ Vigilantibus et non dormientibus jura subveniunt. *Molon Labe!*

February 15, 2016, 08:36 PM	#3
James K Member In Memoriam Join Date: March 17, 1999 Posts: 24,383	If all else fails: Get a screwdriver bit of the right size. (The stubby kind used in power drivers.) Chuck it into your drill press. Pad the drill press table or vise well. Lay the gun on the padding with the troublesome screw head upward. Maneuver the table and the chuck until you can bring the chuck down so the driver bit fits into the screw slot. If necessary, have someone else hold the gun and keep it in position. Hold the chuck down with the drill press lever and turn the chuck by hand (no power), turning it back and forth. If that doesn't break the screw loose, then back to the heat method or even drilling it out. Jim

February 16, 2016, 02:33 AM	#4
AzShooter Senior Member Join Date: June 20, 2006 Location: Surprise, Az. Posts: 766	Use Liquid Wrench and let it sit overnight. It should loosen any stubborn screw on your revolver.

February 16, 2016, 05:47 AM	#5
dahermit Senior Member Join Date: October 28, 2006 Location: South Central Michigan...near Posts: 6,501	The screw came loose after a soaking for several hours in a 50-50 mixture of Dextron Automatic Transmission Fluid and Acetone. I did not have to resort to heat after all. Thanks for the input.