Neck sizing Vs. Full length on certain cases - Page 3

tangolima · September 7, 2015, 05:15 PM

Metal,

My definition of full length resizing is just that - full length of the brass is resized; mouth, neck, shoulder, body, and big part of the head. Not really has much to do with the shell holder. In fact I have to grind off the top of a few shell holders for the brass to go in further. Partial length resizing is anything short of that.

Now I generally ignore the recommendations that come with the die instructions. I resize the brass to fit my gun's chamber. When I close the bolt I'd like to have the slightest hint of resistance. Best to have the resistance just disappeared. For autos and other action types, I'd go 0.004" further.

-TL

wogpotter · September 7, 2015, 05:23 PM

Partial is easy to understand, once you remove the voodoo.

You set up the F/L die intentionally short, usually backed off 1 or 2 full turns.
You mark the neck & shoulder with smoke from a candle or something similar.
Now you run the press cycle & look at the removed smoke smudge. It will be short.
Now you bring the die down 1/2 as much as you think is "perfect" resize again & recheck the smudge.

Repeat the size, check, adjust 1/2 until you get the amount of resizing you're looking for.
Personally I look for a 360 degree circle right at the body/shoulder junction, YMMV.

Gunplummer · September 9, 2015, 08:09 AM

As I said before, I started loading late in life. When I started working on guns, reloads were suspect as far as reliability (And rightly so). As available components became better quality, I started into reloading. I never neck sized and was a pariah among the reloading crowd because of my belief that it was nonsense. My point always was: If you have an uneven expansion ring around the base of your case after firing, you will be forcing most of the neck sized cases back in the next time you fire them. I don't know about new production guns, but this non-concentric condition on brass was real common years ago. It usually is a misalignment between the chamber and bolt, the face of the bolt is not on a 90* angle with the chamber, or the lip of the bolt runs out and cams the case off at an angle. Sometimes you can stand the empty brass on a table and visually see that it is "Leaning" to one side. If you load that neck sized case in 180* out, I can not see anything good coming of it. What goes around, comes back around. I guess F/L resizing is now a good thing again.

5whiskey · September 9, 2015, 07:37 PM

Quote:

And...a collet die works great if you aren't shooting hot loads. You will eventually have to bump that shoulder back, but it might be 10 reloads before you do.

For me it's more like 3 firings before I don't like the chamber fit. You can make very accurate ammo with a collet die, though. It's just that you will eventually have to FL size unless you're shooting powder puff loads.

Quote:

Now I generally ignore the recommendations that come with the die instructions. I resize the brass to fit my gun's chamber. When I close the bolt I'd like to have the slightest hint of resistance. Best to have the resistance just disappeared. For autos and other action types, I'd go 0.004" further.

And this is exactly what I was saying earlier about why neck sizing caught on in the first place. It is very easy to explain how to make accurate ammo with a collet die in a few paragraphs. It is not easy to explain how to make accurate ammo that is a tight chamber fit with a FL die in a few paragraphs. I do exactly what you posted Tango. Problem is, most FL die instructions or reloading manuals do not accurately explain how to do it. Or they do explain it but it's confusing to a novice loader.

COYOTE165 · May 3, 2016, 01:05 PM

I FL Resize all of my Rifle Cases Rem 223, Win 243, Win 270, Win 308, Reason being,? My Son & Grandson, & My Buddy,? Shoot some of the same Calibers mentioned above,?So for different Rifles,Besides just mine,? I find it better just to FL Resize,? So there are not any problems,? In any of mine,Or their Bolt Action Rifles,? It works out Well, So why fix,? What not is broke.?

September 7, 2015, 05:15 PM	#51
tangolima Senior Member Join Date: September 28, 2013 Posts: 3,829	Metal, My definition of full length resizing is just that - full length of the brass is resized; mouth, neck, shoulder, body, and big part of the head. Not really has much to do with the shell holder. In fact I have to grind off the top of a few shell holders for the brass to go in further. Partial length resizing is anything short of that. Now I generally ignore the recommendations that come with the die instructions. I resize the brass to fit my gun's chamber. When I close the bolt I'd like to have the slightest hint of resistance. Best to have the resistance just disappeared. For autos and other action types, I'd go 0.004" further. -TL Last edited by tangolima; September 7, 2015 at 05:24 PM.

September 7, 2015, 05:23 PM	#52
wogpotter Senior Member Join Date: September 27, 2004 Posts: 4,811	Partial is easy to understand, once you remove the voodoo. You set up the F/L die intentionally short, usually backed off 1 or 2 full turns. You mark the neck & shoulder with smoke from a candle or something similar. Now you run the press cycle & look at the removed smoke smudge. It will be short. Now you bring the die down 1/2 as much as you think is "perfect" resize again & recheck the smudge. Repeat the size, check, adjust 1/2 until you get the amount of resizing you're looking for. Personally I look for a 360 degree circle right at the body/shoulder junction, YMMV. __________________ Allan Quatermain: “Automatic rifles. Who in God's name has automatic rifles”? Elderly Hunter: “That's dashed unsporting. Probably Belgium.”

May 3, 2016, 01:05 PM	#55
COYOTE165 Junior Member Join Date: November 9, 2013 Posts: 10	Full Length VS Neck Resizing.? I FL Resize all of my Rifle Cases Rem 223, Win 243, Win 270, Win 308, Reason being,? My Son & Grandson, & My Buddy,? Shoot some of the same Calibers mentioned above,?So for different Rifles,Besides just mine,? I find it better just to FL Resize,? So there are not any problems,? In any of mine,Or their Bolt Action Rifles,? It works out Well, So why fix,? What not is broke.?

September 9, 2015, 08:09 AM	#53
Gunplummer Senior Member Join Date: March 11, 2010 Location: South East Pa. Posts: 3,364	As I said before, I started loading late in life. When I started working on guns, reloads were suspect as far as reliability (And rightly so). As available components became better quality, I started into reloading. I never neck sized and was a pariah among the reloading crowd because of my belief that it was nonsense. My point always was: If you have an uneven expansion ring around the base of your case after firing, you will be forcing most of the neck sized cases back in the next time you fire them. I don't know about new production guns, but this non-concentric condition on brass was real common years ago. It usually is a misalignment between the chamber and bolt, the face of the bolt is not on a 90* angle with the chamber, or the lip of the bolt runs out and cams the case off at an angle. Sometimes you can stand the empty brass on a table and visually see that it is "Leaning" to one side. If you load that neck sized case in 180* out, I can not see anything good coming of it. What goes around, comes back around. I guess F/L resizing is now a good thing again.