300 savage

[olduser]

Used a belt sander and ground about 0.008" off the top of a shell holder. Can now size enough to chamber in my rifle. Thanks for all the help guys.

[tangolima]

Right on. Glad it works out.

I have a CH 7.62x45 Czech custom die. It was made a bit too long. I ground quite a bit off the shell holder top, so much so that it weakened the lip. During a conversion operation (from 6.5mm carcano) it tore off. From then on I started grinding the die bottom. 0.008" shouldn't be a problem.

-TL

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[jetinteriorguy]

Originally Posted by olduser

I have been sizing with no gap between the die and the shell holder. In other words there is no more adjustment in my set up. Taking some material off the shell holder is my only option.

The only problem with shaving the shell holder is then your die will set the shoulder back that much further, possibly affecting headspace causing other issues. Unless somehow my thinking on this is flawed.

[olduser]

Setting the shoulder back a little more is just what I needed.

[gwpercle]

Awesome ... I had a hunch that thinning a shell holder would get you where you wanted ... I've used this trick more than once to save the cost of a small base die or CH4D case forming die ...
You have earned a big reloading ... ATTABOY !
Gary

[snoeproe]

My local dealer gets factory 300 sav ammo once or twice a year these days. It’s still being made. I reload factory 300 sav brass. I’ve never had a problem chambering factory or my reloaded factory 300 sav ammo in either of my 99’s. Never seen or heard of small base 300 sav dies?

[res45]

Originally Posted by olduser

Setting the shoulder back a little more is just what I needed.

Glad you got it worked out. I've been converting 308 Win. and 7.62 NATO brass to 300 Sav. for many years, using Lyman 300 Sav. dies and shell holder.

For the NATO brass I first run it through a 30-06 FL sizing dies which just works the base of the brass, then it's much easier to just finish the conversion with the standard FL 300 Sav. die as I don't have to rework the entire case as much. Regular 308 Win. brass just goes straight into the Lyman die.

I use a Harbor Freight chop saw with a 300 Sav. trim jig to trim the case neck to where I don't have to remove much more brass at final trimming.



I use my converted brass for mid-range cast lead loads and keep the NATO brass separate for the 308 Win. I have plenty of once fired and new old stock factory 300 Sav. brass for jacketed loads.

[olduser]

What weight bullet are those? Looks like that would be a good economical hog load.

[res45]

It's an Arsenal 4 cavity 50/50 mold, it cast two plain base and two gas check bullets, the last two photo are my bullets.

https://arsenalmolds.com/products/ranch-dog