Savage 1907 380 Hammer Follow

[johnm1]

I realize it is a striker and not a hammer but when the slide is released from slide lock, sometimes the hammer spur follows. Not every time. It happens more if i pull the trigger while the slide is locked back but again not always. I can't get an absolute pattern while trying to replicate the conditon. The firearm was filthy so i cleaned it but that didnt cure the issue. I have not fired this pistol yet so I cant say for sure that it will fire when this occurs, I expect it will.

I have a 1907 in 32 that did fire when he slide was racked to load the chamber once and only once. At least I was doing what I was supposed to and the pistol was pointed down range. I'll figure that out seperately. Though after the follow issue on the 380 version I tested the 32 and it also sometimes has the same hammer follow issue. Again, not every time.

Im hoping someone here is familiar with the issue and can offer some place to start looking for a correction.

Also, I have not found a serial number list for the 380 version. All of the lists I have found do not address the serial numbers for the 380's which all end with a B (except the first 2000 or so that had a B prefix). My current 380 has a 4 digit serial that would put production in 1909. But 380 production didn't begin until 1913.

[johnm1]

So maybe this is a bit harder than i thought.

Maybe we can gather some more information. How ahout those who have a Savage try to see if he hammer follows when the slide is released when the slide is locked back.

Maybe it is due to releasing the slide without a round being chambered. I understand that 1911's one should ride the slide back when a round isn't being chambered. Something about the round offering resistance and slowing down the slide. Supposedly to prevent battering the bolt face.

Thanks.

[gyvel]

Old worn Savages have a penchant for going full auto. My uneducated guess would be that your fire control parts are worn.

[johnm1]

That was my concern. I think I'll take them both to the desert this weekend and test them extensively. Just hope the temperatures drop to below 110.

[hartcreek]

The problem is that the little nub on the cocking mechanism has worn down.

When you rack the slide and arm contacts the frame and rotated the hammer/firing pin to the rear. If the nub is worn down on the arm that arm will not put the hammer/ firing pin all the way rearward and it will not latch in place.

I just repaired one a week ago and have photos on my digital camera. I started a thread on this repair but have not yet posted the photos.

Do you know how to disassemble your gun? You can actually see the arm that has had the bump worn down if you lock your slide open and turn the gun upside down. You will see this arm sticking under into the frame.

I just pulled my bolt and wrapped it in aluminum foil as a heat sink and welded a bead in the right place with my wire welder after I had warmed the spot with a rosebud tip.

If the bead is to high you will not be able to assemble the gun so you just keep filing the bead until you can assemble the gun.

[RickB]

I have a .32 '07, but have never shot it.
I've never let the slide slam shut when handling the gun, and have no experience with the striker not remaining cocked.

[johnm1]

Hartcreek

Your words were enough. I see what you are describing and it makes sense. Thank you very much. I'll talk with my smith and if he agrees ill have him add the material on both.

RickB - you need to shoot it. I can't see tne sights and it does very well at 7 yards. They are fun guns.

[gyvel]

The problem is that the little nub on the cocking mechanism has worn down.

That's actually just one of several problems with that model Savage. Worth investigating, but not necessarily the answer. If that's the problem, you can probably get a replacement from Numrich ($25.30) cheaper than having a gunsmith doing a weld job.

I put together about 15 or so of these for a late friend from a huge box of loose parts about 15 years ago. The guns were of varying condition, but I never had a follow-down once they were assembled. I did however have failures to cock from sears and sear trips. The whole thing was like a huge jigsaw puzzle: If one part didn't work, I would try another until I got a combination that worked. Lot of hand fitting involved with a Savage and each gun took me about 6 or 7 hours to get right. I had no way of knowing which part had originally come from which gun since they were all completely disassembled and just dumped in a big box. LOL!!!!!!

The fact that you said it happens more frequently when you pull the trigger before releasing the slide probably means there is wear on the sear or sear trip mechanism. The sear trip is essentially the disconnector.

(BTW: Have you given it a thorough cleaning, meaning complete disassembly of every part, and cleaning of every nook and cranny? Given the design, the guns are very sensitive to dirt build up or even a small foreign particle lodged somewhere.)

[johnm1]

Gyvel

i have cleaned both. But the newest, the 380, was absolutely filthy. I'm sure if i did it again I could get black patches from inside the frame. I was avoiding dunking them in solvent or spraying them down with anything other than Hoppes and CLP for fear of damaging the Gutta Percha grips. There was a build up of carbon inside the frame that made me think it had never been cleaned there before.

I'll do some more cleaning and testing this weekend. Maybe I can pattern them. I have shot the 32 but not the 380. The 32 did once fire when I racked the slide though.

[gyvel]

Most of the problems stem from the bolt itself. See if you can detail strip that and clean.

[johnm1]

I haave been avoiding stripping the bolt. Cant seem to find instructions. I did soak them both in Kroil and then alcohol. I'll keep looking for instructions.

[gyvel]

Ah, yes. The bolt indeed is a nightmare, but once you see how its done it gets a little easier. The sear and extractor are the hardest to work with as you need to push a tiny spring back into its hole while you reinsert them. The cocking lever/firing pin spring is also a bit of a bugger. It needs to be pushed out of the way while you drop the retainer back into the hole.

Look on Numrich's website; there is a pretty good exploded drawing of all the parts.

[johnm1]

Yea. I already downloaded that diagram. When I soaked the bolt (breach block?) I didn't get any dirt or grease out. That doesn't mean that there isn't hardned crap inside though.

I'm not looking forward to this.

[gyvel]

I'm not looking forward to this.

LOL. It gets a lot easier after you've done it 30 or 40 times.

It will help immensely if you have a good set of jeweler's screwdrivers to push the small springs back into their holes while you replace the sear and extractor.

[johnm1]

Gyvel,

How far 'North' are you in Northern Arizona? I'd be willing to buy lunch if you would look over my shoulder. I'm in Mesa.

tested both pistols today. The 32 slam fired twice when the slide was released from lock. But otherwise fired admirably . I was unable to reliably load the 380 from sliide lock. I'm not sure what the issue is. The round gets caught by the slide in a almost vetical position. I'm assuming it is magazine related. It only loaded normally twice but ddidn'tslam fire either time. I assume it would given the same symptom with the 32. Once the chamber is loaded it function very well w/o misfeed. A lot more snap than I would have thought though.