tiny rust spots on stainless

skizzums · July 24, 2013, 11:26 PM

hey guys and gals, i have a few two-tone pistols(stainless finish), and i have these very tiny little rust spots on the slides. i've tried just buffing it with cloth but no luck. what would be the correct way to remedy this? it's on a couple cheap s&w 9's and a sccy cpx-1. thanks for any help.

Jim Watson · July 24, 2013, 11:31 PM

I went over mine with oil and fine steel wool.

DANGER WILL ROBINSON, DANGER, DONT RUB STAINLESS STEEL WITH COMMON STEEL WOOL, IT WILL IMBED IN THE STAINLESS AND CAUSE MORE RUST SPOTS! AND YOUR KNICKERS WILL GET IN A TWIST, TOO.

All I can say is MINE didn't, it cleaned up leaving only tiny dark spots in the matte finsh stainless and did not reoccur.

That one came out of the box with rust on it, I could have rejected it but it was one of the last of its kind and I wanted the gun more than I wanted cosmetics.

Venom1956 · July 24, 2013, 11:32 PM

sometimes a dab of a 'metal polish'(for rims/boats) will get them out. Just dont go nuts or you'll have a shiny spot.

NESHOOTER · July 24, 2013, 11:32 PM

I use a ''green'' scotchbrite scrub pad, on brushed stainless now if you have a bead blasted the pad will not match the bead blast finish. When you start the process do the whole complete slide and there is a direction ''grain'' to the finish just go with the grain.

BarryLee · July 25, 2013, 12:00 AM

You might try some liquid Flitz and lightly wipe over the area. Also, I’ve heard of people using #00 bronze wool and gun oil.

PSP · July 25, 2013, 04:55 AM

Eezox and a common pencil eraser is the "farmer's almanac" cure.

pilpens · July 25, 2013, 08:27 AM

I have used an old bronze bore brush on a cordless drill. It is strong enough to scratch the rust off but not enough to scratch the stainless. It will not smooth out pitting or scratches.
I have done this on a Blued Ruger MKII, a police trade in Kahr K9, and an old S&W 15-4. It has worked well.
It leaves brass on the area but the brass can easily be cleaned off.

iamdb · July 25, 2013, 12:55 PM

Plus one on the pencil eraser and solvent.

skizzums · July 25, 2013, 02:33 PM

i like the eraser idea....thanks. if that doesn't do the trick i'll go to ore abrasive methods. thanks guys!!

Pahoo · July 25, 2013, 02:49 PM

They start out as spots and if left to continue, turn into what I call, worm-holes and nothing will take those out. ....

Be Safe !!!

skizzums · July 25, 2013, 09:50 PM

no luck with the eraser. sounded good though.

skizzums · July 25, 2013, 09:52 PM

oh.....nevermind......i didn't see the solvent part.......well, if anyone is curious, dry pencil eraser is no bueno.

Pahoo · July 26, 2013, 10:12 AM

skizzums
Use this information as you see fit and perhaps, even do some experimenting. The last time I ran into these "worm-holes" on a SS barrel, here is what I did and yes, it worked. However, there are some reservations that I will point out. .....

Basically, you have some small cavities and you need to get into them to remove the rust. I applied a degreasing solvent to the spots in order to remove any oils. Then with the point of a round toothpick or straight pin, I applied a small drop of Navy Gel. I gave it time to work and you can actually see the rust working out. Clean the spot up with solvent and cover with some grease or heavy oil. What you have to watch, is not to get any Navy Gel on bluing as it will remove it. Also, the rest of the SS surface around the holes, will be slightly discolored. You can blend this in later. .....

The results were good but what is more important, I stopped the rust. ...

Good luck and;
Be Safe !!!

Dragline45 · July 26, 2013, 12:41 PM

Use 0000 steel wool and some gun oil. This is the finest grade steel wool and it will remove the rust without distorting the finish. Using Flits or Mothers Mag polish will just leave a shiny spot and make the finish look uneven unless you polish out the entire thing. Using a scotch-brite pad is a commitment since you will have to do the entire slide, and if you are as OCD as me this will be a trial and error process until you achieve a uniform brushed finish that looks good and this can take some time.

**44 AMP** · July 27, 2013, 11:41 PM

Its important to know that "Stainless Steel" does not mean never rusts.

It just means "rusts slower". Usually much slower.

I have a bar of "stainless" that is a solid brown on the outside (and because of that rust, impervious to further rust). Unprotected stainless will rust in the right conditions, just slower than regular steel.

All of the methods named can work, your results will depend on how you use what. Which every you use, after you get the rust off, consider a wax coat, or something like that. Done right (so no air gets to the metal surface) it won't rust again.

PSP · July 28, 2013, 08:14 AM

Quote:

Done right (so no air gets to the metal surface) it won't rust again.

Another reason to have Eezox in your stable of products. It is an excellent rust inhibitor. Goes on wet, dries, and leaves a thin coating that works well.

oldgunsmith · July 28, 2013, 10:36 AM

Years ago a guy came in and wound up selling me some stuff out of the trunk of his car called RB-17 that looked sort of like a green naval jelly but smelled different. You apply it with a tooth brush and it removed rust completely without any abrasive scrubbing at all and without affecting the finish, blue included, at all. I eventually used it up and tried to order more, but the address on the label was no longer good. Years later it popped up on Google & is available again. Has anyone else tried it?

**44 AMP** · July 28, 2013, 10:49 AM

I have used RB-17. Its the best bore cleaner I ever saw! Doesn't hurt the finish, removes everything (copper), non toxic, and doesn't even smell very bad!

Put some of the gel on a brush, 3-4 passes, then let sit 15 min. It will pull stuff from what looks like a clean barrel! Great for restoring that cruddy milsurp barrel to the best it can get, etc. It is a great product!

Got mine from a local shop, kind of expensive. When I had used it up and wanted more, the shop had closed. I checked, the only way I could get it was to buy a case (or more) which would have cost well over $100 (and this was a dozen or more years ago. No distributor in my state....gave up on it.

Glad to hear you can get it again. I'll look for it.

If you can GET RB-17, it works wonders.

July 24, 2013, 11:26 PM	#1
skizzums Senior Member Join Date: July 1, 2013 Location: Douglasville, Ga Posts: 4,615	tiny rust spots on stainless hey guys and gals, i have a few two-tone pistols(stainless finish), and i have these very tiny little rust spots on the slides. i've tried just buffing it with cloth but no luck. what would be the correct way to remedy this? it's on a couple cheap s&w 9's and a sccy cpx-1. thanks for any help.

July 24, 2013, 11:32 PM	#3
Venom1956 Senior Member Join Date: October 4, 2008 Location: WI Posts: 3,656	sometimes a dab of a 'metal polish'(for rims/boats) will get them out. Just dont go nuts or you'll have a shiny spot. __________________ E-Shock rounds are engineered to expend maximum energy into soft targets, turning the density mass into an expanding rotational cone of NyTrilium matrix particles, causing neurological collapse to the central nervous system.- Yeah I can do that. I guarantee you will know it if a bicyclist hits your house going 1000 mph. -Smaug

July 25, 2013, 12:00 AM	#5
BarryLee Senior Member Join Date: July 29, 2010 Location: The ATL (OTP) Posts: 3,946	You might try some liquid Flitz and lightly wipe over the area. Also, I’ve heard of people using #00 bronze wool and gun oil. __________________ A major source of objection to a free economy is precisely that it ... gives people what they want instead of what a particular group thinks they ought to want. Underlying most arguments against the free market is a lack of belief in freedom itself. - Milton Friedman

July 25, 2013, 08:27 AM	#7
pilpens Senior Member Join Date: April 24, 2008 Location: Ohio Posts: 1,696	I have used an old bronze bore brush on a cordless drill. It is strong enough to scratch the rust off but not enough to scratch the stainless. It will not smooth out pitting or scratches. I have done this on a Blued Ruger MKII, a police trade in Kahr K9, and an old S&W 15-4. It has worked well. It leaves brass on the area but the brass can easily be cleaned off. Last edited by pilpens; July 25, 2013 at 08:38 AM.

July 25, 2013, 12:55 PM	#8
iamdb Senior Member Join Date: March 13, 2011 Posts: 455	Plus one on the pencil eraser and solvent. __________________ John 20:29 Jesus said to him, “Thomas, because you have seen Me, you have believed. Blessed are those who have not seen and yet have believed.”

July 24, 2013, 11:31 PM	#2
Jim Watson Senior Member Join Date: October 25, 2001 Location: Alabama Posts: 18,544	I went over mine with oil and fine steel wool. DANGER WILL ROBINSON, DANGER, DONT RUB STAINLESS STEEL WITH COMMON STEEL WOOL, IT WILL IMBED IN THE STAINLESS AND CAUSE MORE RUST SPOTS! AND YOUR KNICKERS WILL GET IN A TWIST, TOO. All I can say is MINE didn't, it cleaned up leaving only tiny dark spots in the matte finsh stainless and did not reoccur. That one came out of the box with rust on it, I could have rejected it but it was one of the last of its kind and I wanted the gun more than I wanted cosmetics.

July 24, 2013, 11:32 PM	#4
NESHOOTER Senior Member Join Date: October 16, 2009 Posts: 517	I use a ''green'' scotchbrite scrub pad, on brushed stainless now if you have a bead blasted the pad will not match the bead blast finish. When you start the process do the whole complete slide and there is a direction ''grain'' to the finish just go with the grain.

July 25, 2013, 04:55 AM	#6
PSP Senior Member Join Date: June 2, 2006 Location: Bowling Green Virginia Posts: 4,487	Eezox and a common pencil eraser is the "farmer's almanac" cure.

July 25, 2013, 02:33 PM	#9
skizzums Senior Member Join Date: July 1, 2013 Location: Douglasville, Ga Posts: 4,615	i like the eraser idea....thanks. if that doesn't do the trick i'll go to ore abrasive methods. thanks guys!!

July 25, 2013, 02:49 PM	#10
Pahoo Senior Member Join Date: February 16, 2006 Location: IOWA Posts: 8,783	From spots, to worm-holes !!! They start out as spots and if left to continue, turn into what I call, worm-holes and nothing will take those out. .... Be Safe !!! __________________ 'Fundamental truths' are easy to recognize because they are verified daily through simple observation and thus, require no testing.

July 25, 2013, 09:50 PM	#11
skizzums Senior Member Join Date: July 1, 2013 Location: Douglasville, Ga Posts: 4,615	no luck with the eraser. sounded good though.

July 25, 2013, 09:52 PM	#12
skizzums Senior Member Join Date: July 1, 2013 Location: Douglasville, Ga Posts: 4,615	oh.....nevermind......i didn't see the solvent part.......well, if anyone is curious, dry pencil eraser is no bueno.

July 26, 2013, 10:12 AM	#13
Pahoo Senior Member Join Date: February 16, 2006 Location: IOWA Posts: 8,783	Proceed at your own risk skizzums Use this information as you see fit and perhaps, even do some experimenting. The last time I ran into these "worm-holes" on a SS barrel, here is what I did and yes, it worked. However, there are some reservations that I will point out. ..... Basically, you have some small cavities and you need to get into them to remove the rust. I applied a degreasing solvent to the spots in order to remove any oils. Then with the point of a round toothpick or straight pin, I applied a small drop of Navy Gel. I gave it time to work and you can actually see the rust working out. Clean the spot up with solvent and cover with some grease or heavy oil. What you have to watch, is not to get any Navy Gel on bluing as it will remove it. Also, the rest of the SS surface around the holes, will be slightly discolored. You can blend this in later. ..... The results were good but what is more important, I stopped the rust. ... Good luck and; Be Safe !!! __________________ 'Fundamental truths' are easy to recognize because they are verified daily through simple observation and thus, require no testing.

July 26, 2013, 12:41 PM	#14
Dragline45 Senior Member Join Date: November 30, 2010 Posts: 3,513	Use 0000 steel wool and some gun oil. This is the finest grade steel wool and it will remove the rust without distorting the finish. Using Flits or Mothers Mag polish will just leave a shiny spot and make the finish look uneven unless you polish out the entire thing. Using a scotch-brite pad is a commitment since you will have to do the entire slide, and if you are as OCD as me this will be a trial and error process until you achieve a uniform brushed finish that looks good and this can take some time.

July 27, 2013, 11:41 PM	#15
44 AMP Staff Join Date: March 11, 2006 Location: Upper US Posts: 28,851	Its important to know that "Stainless Steel" does not mean never rusts. It just means "rusts slower". Usually much slower. I have a bar of "stainless" that is a solid brown on the outside (and because of that rust, impervious to further rust). Unprotected stainless will rust in the right conditions, just slower than regular steel. All of the methods named can work, your results will depend on how you use what. Which every you use, after you get the rust off, consider a wax coat, or something like that. Done right (so no air gets to the metal surface) it won't rust again. __________________ All else being equal (and it almost never is) bigger bullets tend to work better.

July 28, 2013, 10:36 AM	#17
oldgunsmith Senior Member Join Date: January 9, 2013 Posts: 278	Years ago a guy came in and wound up selling me some stuff out of the trunk of his car called RB-17 that looked sort of like a green naval jelly but smelled different. You apply it with a tooth brush and it removed rust completely without any abrasive scrubbing at all and without affecting the finish, blue included, at all. I eventually used it up and tried to order more, but the address on the label was no longer good. Years later it popped up on Google & is available again. Has anyone else tried it?

July 28, 2013, 10:49 AM	#18
44 AMP Staff Join Date: March 11, 2006 Location: Upper US Posts: 28,851	I have used RB-17. Its the best bore cleaner I ever saw! Doesn't hurt the finish, removes everything (copper), non toxic, and doesn't even smell very bad! Put some of the gel on a brush, 3-4 passes, then let sit 15 min. It will pull stuff from what looks like a clean barrel! Great for restoring that cruddy milsurp barrel to the best it can get, etc. It is a great product! Got mine from a local shop, kind of expensive. When I had used it up and wanted more, the shop had closed. I checked, the only way I could get it was to buy a case (or more) which would have cost well over $100 (and this was a dozen or more years ago. No distributor in my state....gave up on it. Glad to hear you can get it again. I'll look for it. If you can GET RB-17, it works wonders. __________________ All else being equal (and it almost never is) bigger bullets tend to work better.