How ot use a "universal decapper die"?

[maillemaker]

I have started collecting range brass.

I want to deprime it. I know that companies like Lee make a universal decapping die that will decap many different sizes of brass.

What sort of press should I get to use it it?

I know they make some "universal" shell holders, too, that covers some range of calibers, but I'm guessing I'll pretty much need a shell holder per caliber?

Steve

[Sevens]

First question would be.. why deprime it? I only ask because when you actually reload it, you must resize the brass. Can't reload it until it's been resized. And resizing dies automatically decap the brass for you, so doing it ahead of time is simply extra work that gives you no real benefit.

Some folks like to clean primer pockets and some folks have ultrasonic cleaners that will clean those pockets so they might deprime before cleaning, which is done before sizing.

I suppose if you simply wish to make key chains or that sort of thing, you'd also have a need for depriming unsized but used brass.

On to your needs -- any simple press and a Universal decap die will work, but yes -- you need a shell holder in each size. All of the tools you need are made by Lee and by far, they will be the most economical tools on the market. You do NOT need hardcore equipment for your intended use, it's very very easy on the tools and buying better and/or more expensive tools simply to deprime would be superfluous.

Get Lee's basic reloader press, about $25. Get Lee's Universal decap die, maybe $12 or $15. Buy Lee's set of 11 shell holders in the set, I think it's about $15 bucks... with those tools, you'll be able to decap just about anything you might find scattered on a shooting range EXCEPT for Berdan primed cases. Berdan primed cases are a whole other ball of wax.

[dawico]

Order a set of Lee shell holders also. They come in handy for many things, just be sure you the standard shell holders, not the ones specific for the Lee hand primer.

Many calibers share a shell holder, such as 30.06, 308, 45 ACP or any cases based on these.

Get a good full circle press, even a cheap Lee. It will serve the purpose you need it for now, and will be a good press when you start reloading.

The Lee universal decapping die is very handy, but they make a punch type decapper that you use a hammer with. This is the absolute cheapest way to decap brass if you don't want to get any equipment yet, and it works good for decapping crimped in primers.

[Sevens]

The other and extremely much cheaper option is to buy a Lee decap rod & base. Couple of bucks, really, maybe $5 or $6? It's nothing but a hardened steel pin and a round chunk of metal to place the cartridge case on. You insert the pin and whack it with a hammer and it pops the primer out.

Lot of work, not fun.

[George H]

I use a single stage press but that is the only press I have (Rockchucker).
If you are going to buy a press just for that reason, I would get a lower priced press for that since it does not take a lot of pressure to push out a primer.

[wncchester]

A die is a die, a press is a press. Use what ever you have, it'll work fine.

The use of a universal decapper is a matter of choice, it largly depends on if you want to tumble unprimed cases before you size them. Lee's decapper has the strongest pin available.

Shell holders have to match the case head size. ??

[maillemaker]

First question would be.. why deprime it?

I wet tumble my brass after depriming. If I wet tumble with primers in, then water gets trapped under the primer. I worry that if it does not evaporate out, it may foul the primer/powder during reloading.

Get a good full circle press, even a cheap Lee. It will serve the purpose you need it for now, and will be a good press when you start reloading.

I'm already reloading - I have a Lee Pro 1000 set up for .45 ACP.

But it looks like a pain in the butt to change out the cartridge plate and the case pusher and the primer loader, etc.

So I was thinking about getting a dedicated press for decapping.

Steve

[maillemaker]

OK, looks like this set of shell holders would work well:

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct...tNumber=786187

Now I guess I just need a simple single-stage press to use them in, along with a universal decapper die.

Any suggestions for the press?

Steve

[maillemaker]

What do you think of this single-stage press for decapping?

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct...tNumber=807734

[emirikol]

I have one of those lee "c" style single stage presses set up as a second station for lead bullet sizing and sometimes with a lee bulge buster for range brass. It would be perfect as a decapping station.

[George H]

I don't see why that press would not work for decapping.

[m&p45acp10+1]

If it is brass for sale or trade fodder I would leave the primers in. I pick up a lot of range brass to use for trade the purpouse of trade. I just tumble it then bag it. The only people that I know of that decap before anything else are the ones that use progressive presses, they tend to size/decap with the same die.

Just my 2 cents.

[Cascade1911]

The Lee C-Frame press is great for operations that don't require a great deal of force. The advantage over an O-Frame is it is much easier to access the ram. Disadvantage is that it is weaker and flexes more. Anyone who single stages (as I do) should have one of these little Lee's to go with their heavy Rock Chucker or Crusher. Perfect for decapping. (my decapping die is on its way and already has a home)


*and no , I don't work for Lee.....

[maillemaker]

If it is brass for sale or trade fodder I would leave the primers in. I pick up a lot of range brass to use for trade the purpouse of trade. I just tumble it then bag it. The only people that I know of that decap before anything else are the ones that use progressive presses, they tend to size/decap with the same die.

I figured depriming it would make it more desirable and give me a leg-up in sales.

Steve

[k4swb]

I figured depriming it would make it more desirable and give me a leg-up in sales.

Not for me. I prefer to buy used brass with the primers intact so I can get a look at them.

[serf 'rett]

Got a drill press? .

I've been using my drill press to de-prime pistol brass before tumbling w/stainless media. Clamp a block of wood on your press table. Drill a flat bottom hole slightly larger than your brass diameter and about 1/8” to 3/16" deep. Drill another smaller hole straight through the wood block. Set an container (I use a plastic ice cream bucket) under the press table to catch the primers. Cut the head off a small nail and chuck the nail in the drill chuck. De-prime brass. (drill NOT running!)

I seem to de-prime faster with the drill press because:
1. It’s easier to put the brass in a small hole than to insert it into a shell holder
2. I’m holding the brass for the whole operation; i.e., I pick up the brass from a container, insert the brass in the hole, pull the drill press handle with my other hand and then drop the brass into another container.

An additional benefit is my “de-capping pins” are really cheap!

[wild willy]

That lee press works great for decapping been using mine for years. The nice thing about them is the handle and ram are almost balanced. If you are doing short cases you don't have to use a full stroke and the handle will stay where you left it.Got mine years ago Lee was running some kind of promotion think it was around $10 give or take a buck or two

[Sevens]

I figured depriming it would make it more desirable and give me a leg-up in sales.

Sort of a catch-22. It may indeed give you a leg up in sales simply because if it's sonic-cleaned and looks as unbelievably clean as the sonic-cleaned brass looks, folks will see them with no primers and think they are NEW brass and not fired brass.

Worse, some handloaders might get your brass with no primer in it and assumed that it was decapped the way 99% of us decap our brass -- while sizing it. They'll see the primer gone and they'll assume it's been sized.

It's not been sized, so it'll be a real SOB in some guns when they try to chamber it.

I don't think it's a good idea, but that's just my opinion.

As an aside to the conversation, I've never actually bought the Universal decap die... but I will typically just use my .45 Auto size die as a "universal decapper" because everything smaller will decap with it... as long as it's of normal handgun brass length.

If I need a "universal decapper" for rifle, I typically grab my Lee Collet .300 Win Mag neck-only size die. If you don't push hard on the lever to activate the collet sizer, it pops any primer out with no struggle.

[maillemaker]

Sort of a catch-22. It may indeed give you a leg up in sales simply because if it's sonic-cleaned and looks as unbelievably clean as the sonic-cleaned brass looks, folks will see them with no primers and think they are NEW brass and not fired brass.

Worse, some handloaders might get your brass with no primer in it and assumed that it was decapped the way 99% of us decap our brass -- while sizing it. They'll see the primer gone and they'll assume it's been sized.

I don't have a sonic tumbler, I'd just be wet tumbling them as I usually do.

Of course when I sold them I would sell them as deprimed, unsized, range-found brass. If people make assumptions opposite to what I tell them, that's their problem.

[Sevens]

While I completely agree that it's buyer beware and wouldn't fault you otherwise, you'll find that most handloaders look out for the next guy, almost to a fault.

If it were me in your shoes, I would make sure to include a slip of paper with each package I mailed out that reminds the end user "these are deprimed, but NOT resized."

Of course if it actually were me... I simply wouldn't go through the process of depriming them since resizing them is going to do that anyway.

[Kevin Rohrer]

Any press will work.

There are actually only a few shell holder sizes. I have 2-shell holders that cover the seven calibers I load for.

#1: 30-06, .308, 22-250
Can't remember the number: .19 Badger (in the near future), .204R, .221FB, .223