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Old April 20, 2010, 05:55 PM   #1
-sro-
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Best way to clean Remington 1100??

Hi all!

I am curious about how those with an 1100 clean the internal parts and receiver. I took it all apart and sprayed some WD-40 and got ALOT of gunk out, but there are so many small cavities that the gun is still filthy.

Also the trigger group is very hard to clean...

any suggestions??

Thanks
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Old April 20, 2010, 06:48 PM   #2
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WD-40 is NOT a cleaning agent, it is a water displacement agent. There are dozens of good cleaning agents that can be sprayed into things like the trigger group and then sprayed out with compressed air.

My 1100 is very easy to clean, even the gas ports, but watch your finger inside the action - there are sharp edges that can slice your finger pretty good
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Old April 20, 2010, 07:14 PM   #3
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Lint free swabs (not Qtip stuff) and the cleaning compound of your choice with do wonders.

The spraying with WD-40 flushed loose material. Spraying it with most anything but water would have done the same thing.
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Old April 20, 2010, 09:57 PM   #4
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blow it out with Compressed air, then lightly spray it with remoil. If it is gunked up real bad, a can of brake cleaner. First pull the stock off and disasemble the action spring assemble, disassemble the magazine, keeper-plug-spring-follower. Hose it all out good with brake cleaner, let it dry, hose it out with compressed air, wipe it down with wrags, when dry lightly spray with rem oil, reassemble. The action spring/tube must be clean for an 1100 to operate correctly.
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Old April 21, 2010, 01:23 AM   #5
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The most common mistakes when cleaning the R-1100 have to due with the gas system. If the gas system isn't clean and happy then the gun won't be happy and neither will you.
  • Don't forget to clean the gas vent hole/s -- they're in the barrel located inside the gas cylinder (the barrel collar). There are special punches for the job, but a 1/16" wire will work.
  • The magazine tube needs to be clean and lightly oiled so the piston and piston seal (the rings) are free to slide.
  • The piston and piston seal (the rings) must be installed in the proper orientation, see below.
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Old April 21, 2010, 11:36 AM   #6
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talking about cleaning gunked up gas guns ....just makes you guys all want one of the Benelli inertia guns doesn't it ...

Come on, admit it ..... ( sorry couldn't resist ...)
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Old April 21, 2010, 01:12 PM   #7
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Humm…
Big Jim, my friend, I know you dearly love the Benelli inertia system; but, why is the Benelli US combat shotgun, M1014 (M4), gas operated?
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Old April 21, 2010, 01:56 PM   #8
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Ok Zippy - you do have me there ...

(but the M4's were made for marines !! ) ....so it can't be too complicated ... ( and before I get flamed, one of my boys was a Marine / but it's his mothers fault )...he would have joined the Navy or the Coast Guard if he were more like me ... ( flexible / adaptable / etc ) ...aw never mind, I give up ...

but the good news is, he married well ...so my grandsons will be very intelligent !!
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Old April 21, 2010, 02:27 PM   #9
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+1 on the brake cleaner. I clean all of my guns this way. disasemble, Scrub all parts with solvent and a toothbrush, Take brake or carb cleaner and hose off parts, this will flush out all the dirt you loosened with the solvent. Oil and reassemble. WD-40 should not be in the same room with firearms especially a gas operated auto.
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Old April 21, 2010, 04:02 PM   #10
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A couple months back I purchased another Remington 1100 12 ga. used from Scheels for $270. On the outside it was very clean and scratch free, but on the inside it was a whole different story. I could tell that previous owner had NEVER cleaned or oiled this shotgun before (apparently neither did Scheels when they bought it). It had massive powder build up below the barrel where the gas ports are, surrounded by globs of dry gunk, I found a ninja turtle pencil in the mag spring, big clumps of dirt and wheat in the trigger assenmbly, and it was BONE dry.

Why tell you all this? IDK, but after stripping it, spraying it down with car part cleaner, and oiling it back up it was like it had never been dirty.
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Old April 21, 2010, 04:23 PM   #11
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I prefer Shooters Choice solvent / shotgun and choke tube cleaner.... and I use it on all of my shotguns ...semi-autos, pump guns, Over Unders, etc ....and all my handguns - revolvers and semi-autos.

http://www.shooters-choice.com/shotg...e_cleaner.html

Its not as cheap as brake cleaner, etc .... but it doesn't harm the finish on a wood stock, a pair of wood grips - or even carbon fibre ...

I'd be really cautious with brake or carburetor cleaner ...

Rarely is any gun / that is just dirty - a bad investment if you can get it at the right price. I shop and buy a lot of used guns / and if its dirty .....at all / I'm looking for at least a 20% discount on the asking price. Its my opinion that if the owner cared about the gun / he would have cleaned it meticulously before he was showing it to potential buyers - or its an indication he doesn't take care of his guns. If its excessively dirty - I'll pass on the gun. In my view -- running a gun very dirty will probably cause some excessive wear.

Every gun I shoot - gets cleaned and lubed - when I get home ...regardless of how many shells or rounds went thru it .
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Old April 21, 2010, 04:46 PM   #12
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I use rem clean for that then a light film of rem oil. Plumb wore out my 1100 am on a 11-87 light contour now. Might re build that 1100 tho.
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Old April 22, 2010, 12:30 PM   #13
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I always disassemble the gun completely, removing all furniture (stock, forend, etc) if possible. Then I'll give all internals a good washing with carbuerator cleaner. I'll let it dry or blow out with compressed air depending on how dirty it is. Then I'll put a light coat of dextron-type transmission fluid on all moving parts. The barrel gets cleaned with Hoppes #9 and a light coating of ATF when clean.

For a really dirty barrel, I'll Hang the barrel up vertically and plug one end. Then I'll fill it up with ATF and let it sit overnight, and scrub it out real good the next day.

Just be sure you orient the gas seals correctly upon assembly. If you don't your auto-loader will become a single-shot with a magazine.
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Old May 4, 2010, 02:27 PM   #14
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a good citrus based cleaner works well on gun parts. I use one made by the same folks that make clp (i think break-free is the company name). anyway, most wally worlds have it at the gun counter and it is labeled with a winchester label. spray it down on the metal, scrub with tooth brushes and dental picks on the ports and then hit with more of the of the citrus cleaner and finally compressed air ( I use cans or the air compressor). then lightly oil with clp..

also one big thing to take into account when cleaning your 1100 or 1187 is to put some tape at the end of the mag tube over the threads when removing or installing the o-ring on the mag tube. this helps to alleviate serrations occuring on the o-ring and prevent it from leaking or breaking from the possible cuts that occur from the threads at the end of the mag tube.
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Old May 4, 2010, 03:13 PM   #15
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Quote:
...put some tape at the end of the mag tube over the threads when removing or installing the o-ring on the mag tube...
That should be in Remington's instruction manual!
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Old May 4, 2010, 03:50 PM   #16
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they would never mention it, because it would extend the life of the o-rings and they would not be able to sell as many.

just make sure to remove the tape when done installing the o-ring.
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Old May 4, 2010, 04:02 PM   #17
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Hoppes No.7 and a toothbrush or a spray scrubber.
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Old May 4, 2010, 07:07 PM   #18
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I'm with Maromero.

Once every great while, mine will need cleaning. I take it apart and clean it. Cut the heck out of my index finger a couple of times.

You might as well use mineral spirits or Hoppes and let the parts soak before brushing. Brake cleaner has chemicals in it that are very bad for you and your gunstock

Remember to run a toothpick or wire through the gas ports in the barrel.
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Old May 4, 2010, 07:47 PM   #19
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My response was going to be...best way to clean the 1100? GET A BENELLI!!

Sorry...I couldn't resist.

Quote:
talking about cleaning gunked up gas guns ....just makes you guys all want one of the Benelli inertia guns doesn't it ...
I agree with you BigJimP!! I am a fellow Benelli lover!

I used to have an 1100, and this is precisely why I sold it. It was a pain to clean...and a joy to shoot...but I shoot a lot...so, the cleaning part was a big deal to me. I sure do miss it's soft recoil though!

Otherwise there are some good posts on this one already.
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Old May 5, 2010, 12:17 PM   #20
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1100 a pain to clean you must be cleaning it standing upside down and backwards while using a mirror with the lights off, or something just as difficult and bassackwards

the cleaning is quick, to the point and with the right tools (dental pick and tooth brush) and some good cleaner and a good lube should take you a few minutes to properly do.

I clean my 1100 out after 200rds or after i take it duck hunting in wet areas.

if you are cleaning out your 1100 and need to soak it for long periods of time in strong chemicals and then use high power tools to get the carbon off, then you need to either use different ammo or powder or you need to clean your guns more often, not every 10,000 rds or so
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Old May 5, 2010, 05:17 PM   #21
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Quote:
I clean my 1100 out after 200rds or after i take it duck hunting in wet areas.
Well see...this was the problem for me...since I noticed that this was about the frequency with which I had to clean my 1100 to make it run efficiently.

I only clean my Benellis after about 600 rounds or so...and it's 3 times as fast (and easy) to clean...so, let's see...I get 3 times as many rounds through it between cleanings and it's 3 times easier to clean...that makes the Benelli 9 times better!!

Just a joke...but seriously, I like the Benelli better.
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Old May 5, 2010, 05:40 PM   #22
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my cleaning routine is preventitive in nature. i have seen many 1100's last several thousand rounds before needing a cleaning.
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