Wads

1860Army · March 13, 2024, 11:54 AM

Hello,

Which wads are best to use in a Euroarms .44 caliber New Model Army revolver and should they be lubed or dry? I've seen Ox Yoke, Grey Smoke and an unbranded version sold through Midway USA. Thank you.

Joe

Hawg · March 13, 2024, 01:18 PM

I make my own but I would think any bought wads would work. I lube mine.

Schlitz 45 · March 13, 2024, 02:25 PM

I've used the Ox Yoke wonder wads for decades. You can make your own too with felt pad, a hole punch, & lube-several videos on Youtube.

44 Dave · March 13, 2024, 07:04 PM

I keep one "cap gun" loaded, I won't use lubed wads it it.

**Aguila Blanca** · March 13, 2024, 09:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 44 Dave

I keep one "cap gun" loaded, I won't use lubed wads it it.

Why?

Hawg · March 13, 2024, 09:43 PM

Powder contamination.

44 Dave · March 14, 2024, 12:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Aguila Blanca

Why?

Why do I keep one (or 2) loaded?
Why no lubed wad?
like Hog said powder gets "killed" by oil
Loaded, I have several autos and other revolvers. but I shoot most and best with my open top Colts "
'60 and '51.

Hellgate · March 14, 2024, 12:40 PM

For several years I would buy 1/8" thick sheets of wool felt and with a 7/16" hole punch I would chuck the punch into a drill press and on slow speed punch out wads. Then I would lube them with 50/50 olive oil and beeswax. Now I just buy a couple of 500 count bags of 45 cal 1/2" fiber wads from track of the Wolf, lube them and split them into half or thirds and have well over 1000 wads for a fraction of the cost of the Ox-yolk or wonder Wads.

5whiskey · March 14, 2024, 07:12 PM

I've never used wads unless I want to load a soft load. Most of my revolvers shoot their best with loads that would leave little room for a wad. OK there's room for a thin wad, I don't stuff 'em slam full, but I don't have much bullet jump either. When I load powder puff loads, I see value in an inert filler or a thick wad to decrease bullet jump. I always apply 50/50 beeswax/crisco lube on top of the bullet.

radom · March 15, 2024, 01:34 AM

Go read the colt instructions from the 1860s that came with the guns. Wads grease and such is all 1920-2024 BS.

Bishop Creek · March 15, 2024, 01:47 PM

True, but they weren't firing more than one or two cylinders at a time back in the day unlike today when one fires six or more loaded cylinders at the range.

Hawg · March 15, 2024, 02:06 PM

What Bishop Creek said.

gwpercle · March 15, 2024, 02:49 PM

I was taught ...
Powder - Ball - Lube on top of ball .
Grandfather said that lube over the ball prevented a chain-fire in revolvers and lubed the ball as it went down the barrel ... but mainly prevented the pesky chain-fire !
Gary

**4V50 Gary** · March 16, 2024, 02:45 PM

Both radom and Bishop Creek raise valid points. I use cornmeal filler in lieu of wads. Critters get to eat too!

Hawg · March 16, 2024, 11:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by radom

Go read the colt instructions from the 1860s that came with the guns. Wads grease and such is all 1920-2024 BS.

It's not BS for modern shooters that shoot a lot more.

Quote:

Originally Posted by 4V50 Gary

Both radom and Bishop Creek raise valid points. I use cornmeal filler in lieu of wads. Critters get to eat too!

Cornmeal takes up too much room that could be utilized by more powder. I use thin wads that don't take up a lot of room.

deerslayer303 · March 21, 2024, 08:46 AM

Well I am or maybe was a guy who used lubed felt wads. But after watching " Old Ranger" and his extensive test video's on YouTube I may not use them any more. His Pietta revolvers shoot much better without a wad under the ball. As far as powder contamination it is very much a thing if you are gonna leave them "charged" for a long time. Mine will stay charged all season unless I take a shot at game or just want to shoot it. In this case with a patched ball, I put a half inch non lubed felt wad between the powder and patched ball. My Kentucky still shoots very well with that load column. My 1860 snubby carry piece, gets no wad with beeswax tallow on top. In the end do what YOU want I don't think there is any wrong way in this. The only thing that IS a fact is with no kind of lube when shooting a cap and ball revolver makes cleaning them difficult.

radom · March 24, 2024, 02:12 AM

Me I take them apart and cylinders and barrels go in warm soapy water and they clean right up. The main issue I have is the dragoon guns as after like 6 cylinder loads they tend to try to drag and have to be pull down and lube the arbors. The 1860s and 51s will run till the cows come home or my hands crap out. Huge help is lube with petro jelly or mobile 1 grease or even red and tacky grease vs the cussed yellow goop crap.

44caliberkid · March 25, 2024, 08:11 PM

My brother and I bought our first 1851 Navy from Navy Arms in 1968. I’ve been shooting them ever since. Have always put lube over the ball. Started with Crisco, now use a Crisco/ Bees wax mix. I experimented with Wonder Wads and homemade wads but always went back to lubing over the ball. The fouling stays soft and the cylinder never drags, even shooting all day at cowboy matches.

March 13, 2024, 11:54 AM	#1
1860Army Junior Member Join Date: March 3, 2024 Posts: 5	Wads Hello, Which wads are best to use in a Euroarms .44 caliber New Model Army revolver and should they be lubed or dry? I've seen Ox Yoke, Grey Smoke and an unbranded version sold through Midway USA. Thank you. Joe

March 14, 2024, 12:40 PM	#8
Hellgate Senior Member Join Date: November 18, 2010 Location: Orygun Posts: 869	For several years I would buy 1/8" thick sheets of wool felt and with a 7/16" hole punch I would chuck the punch into a drill press and on slow speed punch out wads. Then I would lube them with 50/50 olive oil and beeswax. Now I just buy a couple of 500 count bags of 45 cal 1/2" fiber wads from track of the Wolf, lube them and split them into half or thirds and have well over 1000 wads for a fraction of the cost of the Ox-yolk or wonder Wads. __________________ With over 15 perCUSSIN' revolvers, I've been called the Imelda Marcos of cap & ball. SASS#3302 (Life), SASS Regulator, NRA (Life), Dirty Gamey Bastards #129 Wolverton Mtn. Peacekeepers (WA), former Orygun Cowboy (Ranger, Posse from Hell)

March 14, 2024, 07:12 PM	#9
5whiskey Senior Member Join Date: October 23, 2005 Location: US Posts: 3,657	I've never used wads unless I want to load a soft load. Most of my revolvers shoot their best with loads that would leave little room for a wad. OK there's room for a thin wad, I don't stuff 'em slam full, but I don't have much bullet jump either. When I load powder puff loads, I see value in an inert filler or a thick wad to decrease bullet jump. I always apply 50/50 beeswax/crisco lube on top of the bullet. __________________ Support the NRA-ILA Auction, ends 03/09/2018 https://thefiringline.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=593946

March 16, 2024, 02:45 PM	#14
4V50 Gary Staff Join Date: November 2, 1998 Location: Colorado Posts: 21,845	Both radom and Bishop Creek raise valid points. I use cornmeal filler in lieu of wads. Critters get to eat too! __________________ Vigilantibus et non dormientibus jura subveniunt. *Molon Labe!*

March 21, 2024, 08:46 AM	#16
deerslayer303 Senior Member Join Date: January 10, 2011 Location: Leesville SC Posts: 2,654	Well I am or maybe was a guy who used lubed felt wads. But after watching " Old Ranger" and his extensive test video's on YouTube I may not use them any more. His Pietta revolvers shoot much better without a wad under the ball. As far as powder contamination it is very much a thing if you are gonna leave them "charged" for a long time. Mine will stay charged all season unless I take a shot at game or just want to shoot it. In this case with a patched ball, I put a half inch non lubed felt wad between the powder and patched ball. My Kentucky still shoots very well with that load column. My 1860 snubby carry piece, gets no wad with beeswax tallow on top. In the end do what YOU want I don't think there is any wrong way in this. The only thing that IS a fact is with no kind of lube when shooting a cap and ball revolver makes cleaning them difficult. __________________ "I prefer dangerous freedom over peaceful slavery." - Thomas Jefferson Last edited by deerslayer303; March 22, 2024 at 10:11 AM.

March 13, 2024, 01:18 PM	#2
Hawg Senior Member Join Date: September 8, 2007 Location: Mississippi Posts: 16,190	I make my own but I would think any bought wads would work. I lube mine.

March 13, 2024, 02:25 PM	#3
Schlitz 45 Senior Member Join Date: January 14, 2018 Location: Colorado Posts: 385	I've used the Ox Yoke wonder wads for decades. You can make your own too with felt pad, a hole punch, & lube-several videos on Youtube.

March 13, 2024, 07:04 PM	#4
44 Dave Senior Member Join Date: February 24, 2013 Posts: 584	I keep one "cap gun" loaded, I won't use lubed wads it it.

March 13, 2024, 09:43 PM	#6
Hawg Senior Member Join Date: September 8, 2007 Location: Mississippi Posts: 16,190	Powder contamination.

March 15, 2024, 01:34 AM	#10
radom Senior Member Join Date: January 21, 2000 Posts: 1,358	Go read the colt instructions from the 1860s that came with the guns. Wads grease and such is all 1920-2024 BS.

March 15, 2024, 01:47 PM	#11
Bishop Creek Senior Member Join Date: March 20, 2011 Posts: 566	True, but they weren't firing more than one or two cylinders at a time back in the day unlike today when one fires six or more loaded cylinders at the range.

March 15, 2024, 02:06 PM	#12
Hawg Senior Member Join Date: September 8, 2007 Location: Mississippi Posts: 16,190	What Bishop Creek said.

March 15, 2024, 02:49 PM	#13
gwpercle Senior Member Join Date: November 30, 2012 Location: Baton Rouge, Louisiana Posts: 1,752	I was taught ... Powder - Ball - Lube on top of ball . Grandfather said that lube over the ball prevented a chain-fire in revolvers and lubed the ball as it went down the barrel ... but mainly prevented the pesky chain-fire ! Gary

March 24, 2024, 02:12 AM	#17
radom Senior Member Join Date: January 21, 2000 Posts: 1,358	Me I take them apart and cylinders and barrels go in warm soapy water and they clean right up. The main issue I have is the dragoon guns as after like 6 cylinder loads they tend to try to drag and have to be pull down and lube the arbors. The 1860s and 51s will run till the cows come home or my hands crap out. Huge help is lube with petro jelly or mobile 1 grease or even red and tacky grease vs the cussed yellow goop crap.

March 25, 2024, 08:11 PM	#18
44caliberkid Senior Member Join Date: May 15, 2017 Location: Iowa Posts: 1,104	My brother and I bought our first 1851 Navy from Navy Arms in 1968. I’ve been shooting them ever since. Have always put lube over the ball. Started with Crisco, now use a Crisco/ Bees wax mix. I experimented with Wonder Wads and homemade wads but always went back to lubing over the ball. The fouling stays soft and the cylinder never drags, even shooting all day at cowboy matches.