Smith and Wesson serial number search

[FlyFish]

carguychris is (as usual), more correct in his response than I was in mine. I wrote "blued steel" in the sense of "not stainless," but M36s, along with most other S&W models, were also available in nickel finish, so if your gun has traces of something silvery and shiny it could have originally been nickel-plated (but definitely not stainless).

[wvdcm3]

Hello, I have acquired a S&W M36-7 ser # BNYxxxx and was wondering as to it's age. Any help would be much appreciated.

[FlyFish]

Hello, I have acquired a S&W M36-7 ser # BNYxxxx and was wondering as to it's age. Any help would be much appreciated

.

36-7s were made from approximately 1990 to 1999 - yours was made/shipped in 1993.

[JJL]

Picked up a 28-2 today with the serial number N598XXX. Any dating information would be appreciated.

ETA: It's pinned and recessed. I guess that means it was manufactured in or before '82? (That makes it at least six years older than me )

[FlyFish]

Picked up a 28-2 today with the serial number N598XXX. Any dating information would be appreciated.

The "N5XXXXX" S/N was used from 1978 to 1980. Given that the S/N on your M28 is almost at the end of the N5s, it would likely be 1980, but there's no way to tell for sure short of contacting S&W.

[JJL]

The "N5XXXXX" S/N was used from 1978 to 1980. Given that the S/N on your M28 is almost at the end of the N5s, it would likely be 1980, but there's no way to tell for sure short of contacting S&W.

Thanks very much!

[wvdcm3]

Originally Posted by FlyFish

36-7s were made from approximately 1990 to 1999 - yours was made/shipped in 1993.

Thanks for the lookup, much appreciated!

[johnny9fingers]

so this is a friends pistol ... he found it when grandpa died and doesnt know the model i think its .38 looks too big to be 32 but ive been wrong before .. thought id through the serial out and see what hits its 11518X cant find a model number but i dont know smithys ... my 38 was a taurus and i had a repro colt 1861 navy if it helps its got a backstrap safety kinda like the 1911a1 colt
did some more research its a lemon squeezer ...but what run 1-4

[mattm1435]

I recently acquired a Model 40 "Lemon Squeezer" with serial number 100*. Could someone please look-up the age for me?

[carguychris]

so this is a friends pistol ... he found it when grandpa died and doesnt know the model i think its .38 looks too big to be 32 but ive been wrong before .. thought id through the serial out and see what hits its 11518X cant find a model number but i dont know smithys ... its got a backstrap safety kinda like the 1911a1 colt

If it is in fact a .38, it's a .38 Safety Hammerless made ca. 1897. It was also called a "New Departure" in factory literature and was known as a "Lemon Squeezer" in popular slang. S&W made a series of small design changes to this gun over time, so collectors have categorized the different versions into 5 "models". I don't have my book handy, but IIRC your gun should be a 4th Model. Here's a picture showing the distinguishing features.

http://www.armchairgunshow.com/image...Hless-Mods.jpg

If it's a .38, it will be chambered in .38 Smith & Wesson aka .38S&W. Factory ammo is available from Remington, Winchester, Ten-X, Fiocchi, and Magtech; the last two are generally the most reasonably priced. It is not interchangeable with .38 Special, which uses a substantially longer and slightly smaller-diameter case. .38S&W is not common enough to be available at Wally World or big-box sporting goods stores, but it can be found at many dedicated gun stores or mail-order houses. Of course, you should probably have the gun checked out by a competant gunsmith before attempting to fire it.

FWIW if the gun is a .38 and not a .32, it qualifies as an Antique under federal law and can be sold to private individuals across state lines without a FFL, although it may still be subject to applicable state laws.

BTW please post some better pictures. The lighting is so bad that I can hardly see it. Try photographing it outdoors in the evening or morning when the sunlight isn't bright enough to cause dark shadows.

[johnny9fingers]

ill try to get better pics but in the mean time the number of pins connecting the top break to frame and the shape of the top break seem to point towards model 3 can the big book of s&w confirm the model type from serial once again its 11518X with no letters

[laytonj1]

I recently acquired a Model 40 "Lemon Squeezer" with serial number 100*. Could someone please look-up the age for me?

Take the serial number from the bottom of the grip butt and include the letter prefix (I or L). Original model 40's were made from 1952 to 1974. S&W recently reintroduced them again but those are to new to be listed in the book.

Jim

[mattm1435]

Thanks Jim. There is no letter prefix. Does this mean it's a 1952?

[hunterkane]

i got this old s&w tying ti find info on but cant
4" barrel
left side of barrel 38 s&w alctg
top of barrel springfield mass. u.s.a. patentned feb 608.sept.14.09.dec.29.14
left side frame ia co sac c
serial 2527xx
and it shoots 38 special

thanks

[carguychris]

Thanks Jim. There is no letter prefix. Does this mean it's a 1952?

Most likely yes.

4" barrel
left side of barrel 38 s&w alctg
top of barrel springfield mass. u.s.a. patentned feb 608.sept.14.09.dec.29.14
left side frame ia co sac c
serial 2527xx

You have a .38 Military & Police Model of 1905, 4th Change, most likely manufactured ca. 1916. Your gun does not have a heat-treated cylinder- heat treatment is reported to have began with serial number 316648- so you should not use +P ammo in this gun. Buffalo Bore makes some very potent standard-pressure loads if you intend to use the gun for SD.

I have no idea what "ia co sac c" represents; I'm guessing that the gaps indicate that some letters are worn off. It doesn't sound like the name of a law enforcement agency, so it's probably the name of a company that had armed guards. FWIW revolvers from this time period are commonly found wearing the name of railroads, which had (and in some cases still have) sworn police forces, and also used to require many employees who handled U.S. mail to wear sidearms.

[hunterkane]

do u no what a value for this gun is the finish 1 to 5% not good and pitted thanks

[philthephlier]

Serial # AAC1XXX, 586 no dash#

[philthephlier]

disregard this duplicate. I had a senior moment.

[danbaum]

Anyone with one of those books able to tell me when my Smith & Wesson Model 10 was made? Serial number is 562174.
Thank you.

[carguychris]

Anyone with one of those books able to tell me when my Smith & Wesson Model 10 was made? Serial number is 5621xx.

If it's actually stamped "M10" inside the yoke cut, the serial number should have a "C" or a "D" prefix, and we can't tell you its DOB without knowing which.

[carguychris]

Serial # AAC1XXX, 586 no dash#

1981, the first year of L frame production. In fact, IIRC 586 serial numbers started at AAB or AAC, so you have one of the first ones made.

FWIW S&W recalled all no-dash and some -1 L frames because some firing pin bushing holes were oversized, which can cause primers to backflow into the hole and lock up the gun. Older repaired guns were stamped with a big "M" inside the yoke cut, although AFAIK S&W has stopped "M"-stamping recently repaired guns. (Some guns were also "M"-stamped at the factory.) If your 586 hasn't been "M"-stamped, you might want to send it back in, but if you've been shooting it for years without problems, it might not need the recall repair because not all L frames were affected.

[carguychris]

do u no what a value for this gun is the finish 1 to 5% not good and pitted thanks

$75-$150 depending on how complete and functional it is. FWIW the stocks (grips) are not correct to the date of manufacture, so that counts against it.

[philthephlier]

1981, the first year of L frame production. In fact, IIRC 586 serial numbers started at AAB or AAC, so you have one of the first ones made.

FWIW S&W recalled all no-dash and some -1 L frames because some firing pin bushing holes were oversized, which can cause primers to backflow into the hole and lock up the gun. Older repaired guns were stamped with a big "M" inside the yoke cut, although AFAIK S&W has stopped "M"-stamping recently repaired guns. (Some guns were also "M"-stamped at the factory.) If your 586 hasn't been "M"-stamped, you might want to send it back in, but if you've been shooting it for years without problems, it might not need the recall repair because not all L frames were affected.
__________________
"You see, in this world there's two kinds of people, my friend: Those with loaded guns and those who dig. You dig." - The Man With No Name

Thanks Carguychris,
I haven't shot it a lot but have put a fair number of full horse power loads through it with no problems. I recently removed the barrel and turned it into a 6" Smython, the poor man's way to legendary Python accuracy. I haven't spent much time with load development but first 40 rounds look very promising with the snake barrel on. Thanks again for the info.

[yourkyle21]

i have a smith and wesson m586 serial number ABU9XXX can anyone tell me what year it is as well as what to use to try to clean some minor rust spots off of it, it is nickel plated

[trex1310]

I have a S&W M28-2 serial # N9541XX. Anybody know when it was made?
Thanks in advance.