Rifle Cleaning?

GunXpatriot · May 9, 2012, 04:10 PM

I only got into firearms a couple years ago, so I am still pretty much a noob. People always seem to say that the cleaning rod should be twisting as its moving down the bore, yet for me they do not. This is with multiple guns, too. This is such a noob question but for some reason I have this fear that I'm going to damage the rifling or crown, even when I'm being very careful. I've cleaned until my guns were spotless, but I still have that underlying fear that I'm not doing something right

Can anyone clear this weird feeling up for me? It would be much appreciated.

Thanks.

mehavey · May 9, 2012, 04:31 PM

Generally, cleaning rods have a freely-rotating handle so you would not feel the rod turning as it travels.

Try this:

Run a tight dry patch down the bore through the barrel, but not out the other side yet. Take a piece of scotch tape and place it around the rod where it's left exposed and leave a slight "tail" of excess tape. Then slowly withdraw the rod and watch the "tail" rotate -- showing you the rod itself is turning as it moves.

cw308 · May 9, 2012, 07:01 PM

Your patches maybe undersized. If the patch & the jag is the the correct caliber the rod should follow the twist of the rifling.

rickyrick · May 9, 2012, 07:10 PM

If it doesn't follow the rifling as mentioned above, you should be able to feel it skip over the lands. Depending on your twist rate and barrel length, it may not go around more than once.

GunXpatriot · May 10, 2012, 04:14 PM

Well the caliber in question is a .22. I'm using a regular Hoppes #9 cleaning kit for .22, .223, .224, etc, etc.

rickyrick · May 10, 2012, 04:19 PM

Probly has a slow twist and the rifling not to deep.

Dfariswheel · May 10, 2012, 06:20 PM

Another cause of the rod not rotating is if the patch holder or brush isn't screwed tightly to the rod.
Instead of the rod rotating the patch or brush rotates.

This is good. Anything to make running the rod through is good, so many of us deliberately don't screw the patch holder or brush on tight. This insures that either rod, the patch or brush or both is going to rotate and do the job right.

tobnpr · May 10, 2012, 06:31 PM

Get a good ball-bearing cleaning rod, like a Dewey.
Avoid the el-cheapo multi-section rods as they can flex too much and rub against the lands.

Now, when you say doing "damage to crown"...please say you don't clean from the muzzle end...always clean from the breech (you may not be able to do this with some semi's), and use a guide if possible.

igousigloo · May 10, 2012, 07:21 PM

While in the service I started out with the M1 and later with the M14, we were instructed to clean from the muzzle. Pretty hard to clean from the breech on those.

bn12gg · May 10, 2012, 09:19 PM

..."a 22..." geesh! Get a boresnake from Walmart. Put a little Hoppe's on it (only occasionally), squirt a little Rem Oil down the barrel and pull the snake thru. Clean the chamber face and rear with a Q tip with a little solvent (from time to time) and then lightly oil. Done.

Until you get into black powder muzzleloaders stick with a boresnake.

Just my .02 David

mehavey · May 11, 2012, 05:51 AM

If the OP is cleaning a 22 Long Rifle, I have to agree w/ Bn12gg -- use a boresnake and be done w/ it.

We do have in-depth incantations and catechismic instructions for other high-powered cartridge weapons that will provide no end of entertainment later on... but the simple boresnake is the 22. LongRifleMan's new best friend.

tobnpr · May 11, 2012, 09:05 AM

Quote:

While in the service I started out with the M1 and later with the M14, we were instructed to clean from the muzzle. Pretty hard to clean from the breech on those.

That's why I said you may not be able to do it with some semi's....if you read my post...

Mike38 · May 11, 2012, 12:00 PM

GunX..... I have a pair of Ruger 10/22 carbines, a couple Remington bolt action .22’s, and four handguns in .22LR. I’ve never used a cleaning rod in any of them. After a range day, I push a patch soaked in Hoppe’s down the bore using a piece of nylon weed wacker line. Done.

Doyle · May 11, 2012, 12:52 PM

For a .22, you don't even need a boresnake. Get some braded fishing line (not mono) of decent LB test and one night while sitting at the TV, cut up a whole bunch of pieces about twice as long as your barrel. When you need to clean your barrel, tie a slightly over-sized cleaning patch to one end, pass the other end through the barrel, apply whatever cleaning fluid you want to the patch and pull. You can cut off the dirty patch and re-tie clean ones several times before that string gets too short.

May 9, 2012, 04:10 PM	#1
GunXpatriot Senior Member Join Date: November 28, 2011 Location: New York Posts: 393	Rifle Cleaning? I only got into firearms a couple years ago, so I am still pretty much a noob. People always seem to say that the cleaning rod should be twisting as its moving down the bore, yet for me they do not. This is with multiple guns, too. This is such a noob question but for some reason I have this fear that I'm going to damage the rifling or crown, even when I'm being very careful. I've cleaned until my guns were spotless, but I still have that underlying fear that I'm not doing something right Can anyone clear this weird feeling up for me? It would be much appreciated. Thanks.

May 9, 2012, 07:10 PM	#4
rickyrick Senior Member Join Date: March 15, 2010 Posts: 8,238	If it doesn't follow the rifling as mentioned above, you should be able to feel it skip over the lands. Depending on your twist rate and barrel length, it may not go around more than once. __________________ Woohoo, I’m back In Texas!!!

May 10, 2012, 04:19 PM	#6
rickyrick Senior Member Join Date: March 15, 2010 Posts: 8,238	Probly has a slow twist and the rifling not to deep. __________________ Woohoo, I’m back In Texas!!!

May 9, 2012, 04:31 PM	#2
mehavey Senior Member Join Date: June 17, 2010 Location: Virginia Posts: 6,903	Generally, cleaning rods have a freely-rotating handle so you would not feel the rod turning as it travels. Try this: Run a tight dry patch down the bore through the barrel, but not out the other side yet. Take a piece of scotch tape and place it around the rod where it's left exposed and leave a slight "tail" of excess tape. Then slowly withdraw the rod and watch the "tail" rotate -- showing you the rod itself is turning as it moves.

May 9, 2012, 07:01 PM	#3
cw308 Senior Member Join Date: September 2, 2010 Location: Plainview , Long Island NY Posts: 3,863	Your patches maybe undersized. If the patch & the jag is the the correct caliber the rod should follow the twist of the rifling.

May 10, 2012, 04:14 PM	#5
GunXpatriot Senior Member Join Date: November 28, 2011 Location: New York Posts: 393	Well the caliber in question is a .22. I'm using a regular Hoppes #9 cleaning kit for .22, .223, .224, etc, etc.

May 10, 2012, 06:20 PM	#7
Dfariswheel Senior Member Join Date: May 4, 2001 Posts: 7,478	Another cause of the rod not rotating is if the patch holder or brush isn't screwed tightly to the rod. Instead of the rod rotating the patch or brush rotates. This is good. Anything to make running the rod through is good, so many of us deliberately don't screw the patch holder or brush on tight. This insures that either rod, the patch or brush or both is going to rotate and do the job right.

May 10, 2012, 06:31 PM	#8
tobnpr Senior Member Join Date: August 1, 2010 Location: Tampa Bay Posts: 4,556	Get a good ball-bearing cleaning rod, like a Dewey. Avoid the el-cheapo multi-section rods as they can flex too much and rub against the lands. Now, when you say doing "damage to crown"...please say you don't clean from the muzzle end...always clean from the breech (you may not be able to do this with some semi's), and use a guide if possible.

May 10, 2012, 07:21 PM	#9
igousigloo Senior Member Join Date: September 22, 2011 Location: central Ohio Posts: 135	While in the service I started out with the M1 and later with the M14, we were instructed to clean from the muzzle. Pretty hard to clean from the breech on those.

May 10, 2012, 09:19 PM	#10
bn12gg Senior Member Join Date: February 19, 2011 Location: Winter Park, Florida Posts: 470	..."a 22..." geesh! Get a boresnake from Walmart. Put a little Hoppe's on it (only occasionally), squirt a little Rem Oil down the barrel and pull the snake thru. Clean the chamber face and rear with a Q tip with a little solvent (from time to time) and then lightly oil. Done. Until you get into black powder muzzleloaders stick with a boresnake. Just my .02 David

May 11, 2012, 05:51 AM	#11
mehavey Senior Member Join Date: June 17, 2010 Location: Virginia Posts: 6,903	If the OP is cleaning a 22 Long Rifle, I have to agree w/ Bn12gg -- use a boresnake and be done w/ it. We do have in-depth incantations and catechismic instructions for other high-powered cartridge weapons that will provide no end of entertainment later on... but the simple boresnake is the 22. LongRifleMan's new best friend.

May 11, 2012, 12:00 PM	#13
Mike38 Senior Member Join Date: December 28, 2009 Location: North Central Illinois Posts: 2,710	GunX..... I have a pair of Ruger 10/22 carbines, a couple Remington bolt action .22’s, and four handguns in .22LR. I’ve never used a cleaning rod in any of them. After a range day, I push a patch soaked in Hoppe’s down the bore using a piece of nylon weed wacker line. Done.

May 11, 2012, 12:52 PM	#14
Doyle Senior Member Join Date: June 20, 2007 Location: Rainbow City, Alabama Posts: 7,167	For a .22, you don't even need a boresnake. Get some braded fishing line (not mono) of decent LB test and one night while sitting at the TV, cut up a whole bunch of pieces about twice as long as your barrel. When you need to clean your barrel, tie a slightly over-sized cleaning patch to one end, pass the other end through the barrel, apply whatever cleaning fluid you want to the patch and pull. You can cut off the dirty patch and re-tie clean ones several times before that string gets too short.