casting problems!!!

billyboy21 · January 23, 2014, 09:25 PM

I'm getting these little lines in my castings, but need help identifying the problem. Tried higher lead temp, preheating mould more, but still get these things. I included pictures so you can see.

Goatwhiskers · January 23, 2014, 09:48 PM

Classic symptom of mold too cold. Speed up your casting rate. GW

Mike / Tx · January 23, 2014, 09:50 PM

Man I hate it when that happens....

First off what is your alloy? Secondly how did you prep your molds?

Just looking at the bullets they appear to be Lee's. First if you haven't done so already, soak the molds in hot water just shy of boiling works great. Then scrub them out with some Comet and a tooth brush, and wash them off again in the hottest water you can stand. Give them a chance to dry and then spray them off with a couple or three shots of brake cleaner, and repeat the soak and scrub.

As for your alloy, if you ahve some or can get some 95-5 solder, depending on your pot size add in around a foot or so stir and flux well then try pouring some more. Make sure you mold is up to temp as well. If you have a hot plate that helps if not setting on top of the pot helps then start off with only one cavity and pour fast till your getting good bullets in it then add the next and so on. Don't stop and pick up bullets for inspection just look at them as they drop. You should be able to see those defects good enough to see when they go away.

Don't get discouraged it happens and with it comes knowledge of how to fix it. Just part of the game.

myfriendis410 · January 23, 2014, 10:04 PM

Sometimes technique: some of my molds require the melt to drop an inch or so to the mold. Other molds require the mold to be in contact with the nipple of the pot. Try varying the position of the mold with respect to the pour. This will more than likely solve your problem.

kerreckt · January 23, 2014, 11:12 PM

Looks like the mold is too cold.

FrankenMauser · January 24, 2014, 12:36 AM

Mold is too cold, and possibly some oil residue.

flashhole · January 24, 2014, 07:26 AM

I agree with the cold mold comments. A good way to heat the mold is to let the first couple of batches of bullets sit in the mold for several seconds. If they come out with lines like the ones you show in the picture just dump them back in the pot.

If you suspect a lead flow problem you might add a small amount of Tin to the alloy to improve flow.

fatman73 · January 24, 2014, 08:52 AM

Think you found out by now your mould is cold. I had the same problems so I bought a hot plate to pre heat my moulds and it really works well. What cavity moulds are you using?

Rifleman1776 · January 24, 2014, 09:26 AM

Crank up the heat. Rest the mould on the top of the pot to warm up. Develop a casting rythm so heat stays consistent. Won't happen on your first run out but will come with time and experience.

**Unclenick** · January 24, 2014, 10:55 AM

I'll move this to the casting sub-forum.

snuffy · January 24, 2014, 11:30 AM

Yup, too cool mold. It's a common rookie mistake, they're afraid of getting things too hot.

I did NOT say the lead is too cool/cold. Don't make another rookie mistake, crank the heat up on the pot. That "burns" off the tin and results in no gain in clean cast bullets. Then when the mold catches up with the lead, you quickly get into the frosted bullet area, you'll be back here asking "are these frosted too bad to use?"

Get a lead thermometer. THEN you'll know what temp you're getting. Lead/tin/antimony alloy doesn't need much over 700 degrees to cast good bullets,,--IF your mold is up to temp.

GP100man · January 27, 2014, 07:02 AM

Machining fluids leechin out of the pores of the aluminum as it`s heated .

Clean the mold as/ Mike/Tx suggested & get the mold good & hot to finish the leechin process. I have seen Lee molds take up to 5 heat/clean cycles to get all the oils out !

A slight smokin of the cavitys with a bic liter helps , I use a very light smokin several times to "season" the mold .A lite smokin has no affect on dia.

David Bachelder · January 27, 2014, 10:59 AM

If you don't have a thermometer you need to get one, then preheat your molds on a hot plate.

Run the pot between 700 and 750. If this doesn't remove the wrinkles then clean things up again or try to work with the alloy (maybe a smidge of 95/5 solder as suggested above?).

Several things can cause wrinkles, most of the time, in my limited experience, its a temperature problem.

skizzums · January 29, 2014, 01:02 AM

2nd the hotplate, i have one from wal-mart, 10$, when is not melting wheel weights its a mold heater

MOshooter65202 · February 6, 2014, 09:10 PM

Yup,your mold's not up to temp yet.

totalloser · February 7, 2014, 02:23 PM

+1 to gp100man if mold heat isn't the issue.

I drop boolits like that and shoot 'em in my plinker ammo. I toss ones like the one on the left though since it won't seal up the bore. ESPECIALLY if you tumble lube.

Heat may not be the issue though. The reason I have trouble with this is due to the cheapskate in me. Scrap plumbing lead alloyed with wheel weights for hardness. Very minimal tin and likely other contaminants that adversely affect (increase) the surface tension.

Slopping over into the next cavity while pouring will cause that as well, and heat WILL help. But if its an alloy issue, sweetening with some tin will help a LOT.

This problem may go away as you use the mold, also. They "break in" for lack of a better description.

January 23, 2014, 09:50 PM	#3
Mike / Tx Senior Member Join Date: April 8, 2000 Posts: 2,101	Man I hate it when that happens.... First off what is your alloy? Secondly how did you prep your molds? Just looking at the bullets they appear to be Lee's. First if you haven't done so already, soak the molds in hot water just shy of boiling works great. Then scrub them out with some Comet and a tooth brush, and wash them off again in the hottest water you can stand. Give them a chance to dry and then spray them off with a couple or three shots of brake cleaner, and repeat the soak and scrub. As for your alloy, if you ahve some or can get some 95-5 solder, depending on your pot size add in around a foot or so stir and flux well then try pouring some more. Make sure you mold is up to temp as well. If you have a hot plate that helps if not setting on top of the pot helps then start off with only one cavity and pour fast till your getting good bullets in it then add the next and so on. Don't stop and pick up bullets for inspection just look at them as they drop. You should be able to see those defects good enough to see when they go away. Don't get discouraged it happens and with it comes knowledge of how to fix it. Just part of the game. __________________ LAter, Mike / TX

January 24, 2014, 12:36 AM	#6
FrankenMauser Senior Member Join Date: August 25, 2008 Location: In the valley above the plain Posts: 13,426	Mold is too cold, and possibly some oil residue. __________________ Don't even try it. It's even worse than the internet would lead you to believe.

January 24, 2014, 07:26 AM	#7
flashhole Senior Member Join Date: February 9, 2005 Location: Owego, NY Posts: 2,000	I agree with the cold mold comments. A good way to heat the mold is to let the first couple of batches of bullets sit in the mold for several seconds. If they come out with lines like the ones you show in the picture just dump them back in the pot. If you suspect a lead flow problem you might add a small amount of Tin to the alloy to improve flow. __________________ ,,, stupidity comes to some people very easily. 8/22/2017 my wife in a discussion about Liberals. Are you ready for civil war?

January 24, 2014, 10:55 AM	#10
Unclenick Staff Join Date: March 4, 2005 Location: Ohio Posts: 21,063	I'll move this to the casting sub-forum. __________________ Gunsite Orange Hat Family Member CMP Certified GSM Master Instructor NRA Certified Rifle Instructor NRA Benefactor Member and Golden Eagle

January 24, 2014, 11:30 AM	#11
snuffy Senior Member Join Date: May 20, 2001 Location: Oshkosh wi. Posts: 3,055	Yup, too cool mold. It's a common rookie mistake, they're afraid of getting things too hot. I did *NOT* say the lead is too cool/cold. Don't make another rookie mistake, crank the heat up on the pot. That "burns" off the tin and results in no gain in clean cast bullets. Then when the mold catches up with the lead, you quickly get into the frosted bullet area, you'll be back here asking "are these frosted too bad to use?" Get a lead thermometer. THEN you'll know what temp you're getting. Lead/tin/antimony alloy doesn't need much over 700 degrees to cast good bullets,,--IF your mold is up to temp. __________________ The more people I meet, the more I love my dog They're going to get their butts kicked over there this election. How come people can't spell and use words correctly? Last edited by Shane Tuttle; March 25, 2014 at 07:40 PM. Reason: Bullet...

January 23, 2014, 09:48 PM	#2
Goatwhiskers Senior Member Join Date: April 8, 2009 Location: Batchelor, La. Posts: 579	Classic symptom of mold too cold. Speed up your casting rate. GW

January 23, 2014, 10:04 PM	#4
myfriendis410 Senior Member Join Date: March 30, 2011 Location: Lompoc California Posts: 274	Sometimes technique: some of my molds require the melt to drop an inch or so to the mold. Other molds require the mold to be in contact with the nipple of the pot. Try varying the position of the mold with respect to the pour. This will more than likely solve your problem.

January 23, 2014, 11:12 PM	#5
kerreckt Senior Member Join Date: May 18, 2011 Location: SE VA. Posts: 216	Looks like the mold is too cold.

January 24, 2014, 08:52 AM	#8
fatman73 Junior Member Join Date: March 16, 2011 Posts: 13	Think you found out by now your mould is cold. I had the same problems so I bought a hot plate to pre heat my moulds and it really works well. What cavity moulds are you using?

January 24, 2014, 09:26 AM	#9
Rifleman1776 Senior Member Join Date: April 25, 2010 Location: Arkansas Posts: 3,309	Crank up the heat. Rest the mould on the top of the pot to warm up. Develop a casting rythm so heat stays consistent. Won't happen on your first run out but will come with time and experience.

January 27, 2014, 07:02 AM	#12
GP100man Senior Member Join Date: August 1, 2007 Location: Tabor City , NC. Posts: 1,969	Machining fluids leechin out of the pores of the aluminum as it`s heated . Clean the mold as/ Mike/Tx suggested & get the mold good & hot to finish the leechin process. I have seen Lee molds take up to 5 heat/clean cycles to get all the oils out ! A slight smokin of the cavitys with a bic liter helps , I use a very light smokin several times to "season" the mold .A lite smokin has no affect on dia. __________________ GP100man

January 27, 2014, 10:59 AM	#13
David Bachelder Senior Member Join Date: August 23, 2011 Location: Trinity, Texas Posts: 636	If you don't have a thermometer you need to get one, then preheat your molds on a hot plate. Run the pot between 700 and 750. If this doesn't remove the wrinkles then clean things up again or try to work with the alloy (maybe a smidge of 95/5 solder as suggested above?). Several things can cause wrinkles, most of the time, in my limited experience, its a temperature problem. __________________ David Bachelder Trinity, Texas I load, 9mm Luger, 38 and 40 S&W, 38 Special, 357Magnum, 45ACP, 45 Colt, 223, 300 AAC, 243 and 30-06

January 29, 2014, 01:02 AM	#14
skizzums Senior Member Join Date: July 1, 2013 Location: Douglasville, Ga Posts: 4,615	2nd the hotplate, i have one from wal-mart, 10$, when is not melting wheel weights its a mold heater __________________ My head is bloody, but unbowed

February 6, 2014, 09:10 PM	#15
MOshooter65202 Senior Member Join Date: February 16, 2011 Posts: 471	Yup,your mold's not up to temp yet.

February 7, 2014, 02:23 PM	#16
totalloser Senior Member Join Date: October 19, 2007 Location: Fort Bragg, CA Posts: 679	+1 to gp100man if mold heat isn't the issue. I drop boolits like that and shoot 'em in my plinker ammo. I toss ones like the one on the left though since it won't seal up the bore. ESPECIALLY if you tumble lube. Heat may not be the issue though. The reason I have trouble with this is due to the cheapskate in me. Scrap plumbing lead alloyed with wheel weights for hardness. Very minimal tin and likely other contaminants that adversely affect (increase) the surface tension. Slopping over into the next cavity while pouring will cause that as well, and heat WILL help. But if its an alloy issue, sweetening with some tin will help a LOT. This problem may go away as you use the mold, also. They "break in" for lack of a better description. __________________ You only truly believe in freedom if you believe in the freedom of those you disagree.