I want to reload, where to start?

[SARuger]

^ good advice, dropped the scale and added a set LEE .44mag dies to go with the .38/.357 dies

[Mauser69]

Do NOT buy the Lee .44 Mag dies! Get either .44 Russian or .44 Special dies. The .44 Russian dies will let you load both Special and Magnum, while the Magnum dies do not let you load anything except .44 Magnum. It is unlikely that you will ever care about .44 Russian, but the .44 Spl is still a very common round. Even if you currently do not shoot .44 Special, why limit yourself for no reason at all?

[SARuger]

^ more great advice! I have not placed the order yet. I'm going to stew on it for a week, tweak it and keep reading, learning and digesting the advice given.

[cw308]

I'm a benchrest shooter, shooting a Rem. 700 308 cal. I may shoot 30 rounds max. Total for the season 600 on the average. It seems you will be reloading more rounds then me, and different calibers. The RCBS Rock Chucker is perfect for me, you maybe better off not going single stage. I can understand your hesitation, when you make your choice on the press the other stuff is easy. Give a second look at the tumbler tumbler with stainless steel pins to clean your brass, I dry tumbled my brass for over 25 years and just changed. Cleans inside & out even primer pockets also no dry media dust. Wet tumbling is fairly new, most dry tumble. Once I tried it, I gave the dry tumbler, media, corn , walnut & 3 bowls to a shooting friend. Can teach an old dog new tricks.

[orionengnr]

My Dillon 550 was $439 about eight years ago...still available at that same price.
Scales, five or so manuals, calipers (2x), tumblers (2x), and the tool heads and dies to reload for .380, 9mm, .38 Spl, .357 Mag, 10mm, .45acp, .45LC, .223, .300BLK, .308, .30'06 altogether haven't come close to $2k.

If you bought two 1050s...maybe that would get you there.

Most of us get started for $300-500, and move on from there.

Now if I told you how much I have spent on powder, primers and projectiles in the last eight years....that would be a different story. But that is a month-by-month expenditure.

[Lost Sheep]

Originally Posted by SARuger

...dropped the scale...

Do not drop the scale. I would not load without my loads being confirmed by weight. Most all loads are meted out by volume, but the charges are set by weight.

I suggest you get a good balance beam scale before (or in addition to) an electronic scale.. Even the Lee scale (which is notoriously hard to read) is accurate and more reliable than the less expensive (and less well-shielded) electronic scales. (Reliable, as in gravity is more reliable than electricity).

Modern electronic scales are good, but I always question their readings until either a check weight or a balance beam confirms. My prejudice.

Lost Sheep

[SARuger]

Do not drop the scale. I would not load without my loads being confirmed by weight. Most all loads are meted out by volume, but the charges are set by weight.

I suggest you get a good balance beam scale before (or in addition to) an electronic scale.. Even the Lee scale (which is notoriously hard to read) is accurate and more reliable than the less expensive (and less well-shielded) electronic scales. (Reliable, as in gravity is more reliable than electricity).

Modern electronic scales are good, but I always question their readings until either a check weight or a balance beam confirms. My prejudice.

The LEE Turret kit I'm getting has a beam scale. I was going to add the electronic scales but with a tight budget, it was suggested I drop them as they were redundant.

I would NEVER reload without scales.......

[SARuger]

Here is what I have so far;

LEE Turret kit
Calipers
Funnel(as suggested)
Bullet puller, not included in the kit
.38/.357 dies
Case cleaner kit, my only convenience item

About $350 with shipping. I will probably add .44spcl.44mag dies/bullets/primers/powder and that will sent me close to my budget

Is there anything else I need?

[Road_Clam]

Keep in mind you are going to need to purchase bullets, primers and powder, and plan on that being an additional $100+ depending on how many bullets you plan on buying, and so the handloading addiction starts, I frequently buy my handloading dies for a new caliber even before I have the firearm !

[SARuger]

If for the short term your only loading straight wall pistol casings you won't need calipers. Calipers are mandatory for monitoring case stretching from firing bottle neck rifle casings. Keep in mind you are going to need to purchase bullets, primers and powder, and plan on that being an additional $100+ depending on how many bullets you plan on buying.

Yeah I know but I know I will need them. I have a set in my workshop now but they are beat up and not good for precision work.

I will be reloading rifle rounds within a couple of months. .223 and 30-30(for a bolt gun) And then at some point 30-30 for a lever,.243 and 30-06

[Road_Clam]

I pulled a brain fart see my edited post, calipers are also necessary for establishing you COAL for both pistol and rifle so they are still a necessary item..

[cw308]

Primer pocket uniformer. Cuts pockets to proper depth, when seating primers, they should bottom in the pocket & also be below flush with the base of the case. The uniformed case makes this very easy & trouble free. What powder and bullet are you going with. Separate your brass, load the same brand. With a crimp remember all cases should be trimmed to the same length. Its been awhile since I reloaded for hand gun, Work was 357 & 45 auto fun 44 Mag. all were crimped, Shoot only rifle now 308 cal. different ball game. I find reloading just as injoyable as shooting. Just take your time,do the best you can & Be Safe.

[SARuger]

It's on order, Midway put all of it on sale today so I pulled the trigger. Now to order bullets, primers, and powder for the .357/.38. I have a Security Six and two LCR's(.38) so I will load up some 158g XTP .38 spcl rounds first to plink with and then load some .357mag for the Security Six with the same bullet.

After I feel comfortable with what I'm doing I plan on some .44mag for my 10.5" SBH for target practice. I have always shot the Winchester 240g JSP but want to try some 260/265g but never could find them in box ammo. Any recommendations for a bullet/load in that weight?

[cw308]

The S&W mod.13 has a 3"HB used 158gr lead the 44Mag used a 240 gr Sierra HPC jacketed bullet out of a S&W 29 Smiths are known for end shake when using a steady diet of full loads, so instead of shooting 44 Spl. I reloaded mag.cases with a spl load, was easier on the hands. You made good choice's on your equipment. Now your hooked

[SARuger]

I won't be ordering powder from midway, $39 HAZMAT fee PLUS $10 shipping, I will pay a little more locally.......Primers are the same story

[hifiaudio]

Like the OP, I am at a similar stage... just getting started, and need to know the basics plus want to spend money on quality equipment that won't be tossed once I learn what I am doing and advance in the hobby.

I plan to reload 9mm and 300 blackout rounds, mostly shooting subsonic loads in both. Maybe shotgun reloading, but it has been said that shotgun reloading can be a fool's errand, so we can put that on the back burner if necessary. I would also be shooting subsonic shotgun loads with a silencer as well, would those loads make reloading shotgun ammo more relevant from a financial or supply perspective?


Is the Lyman 49th edition book still the "best" for someone just starting out and wanting to absorb all the basics? The Amazon review of this book says it doesn't cover reloading 300 blackout. Is that accurate?

[Metal god]

just getting started, and need to know the basics

Is the Lyman 49th edition book still the "best" for someone just starting out and wanting to absorb all the basics?

The 49th is a very good manual to start reloading any cartridge . Yes it may not have specific loads for some of the newer cartridges but the basic reloading process is the same you'll just need to find load data elsewhere . It will be the same with most well respected manuals . There are many new powders you will not find in most of the well respected manuals as well . That does not mean they are out dated . They all will help you get started as well as help well into you're experienced years .

You are really jumping into the deep end right off the bat . Most just want the ammo to go bang at first then move on to the more complex aspect of reloading . You not only want them to go bang but do it in a very specific way .

plus want to spend money on quality equipment that won't be tossed once I learn what I am doing and advance in the hobby.

I've bought a lot of reloading stuff over the years and there has only been one thing or types of things I've grown out of and that's dies . I started with Lee dies and even Redding standard dies and have moved on to bushing dies . I guess the cheap digital scales you should stay away from as well . For $40 some work pretty well but will not last , at least the two I've went through have not . I only use digital to weigh brass now and stick with a beam scale for powder . All pistol charges are checked with check weights and a beam scale then just thrown from a powder measure . 99% of rifle rounds are all weighed using a beam scale . I will throw some of the ball powders that are for plinking and range fun .

That all said , it appears you have no plans on loading any match type ammo . It appears you are going for close range SD/HD type of loading . I'm thinking your basic standard dies should work just fine for your application and calibers .

Now I load all my match ammo on a single stage press and have since I started reloading . I do now use a Lee turret press to load hand gun ammo because a single stage and hand gun loading gets old fast . Just to many die changes for me . If you've never loaded before I recommend learning on a single stage . How ever to your point of not wasting money . A turret press may be what you want but as others have said . Having a single stage around comes in handy all the time . I de-prime all my cases regardless of caliber before any case prep . That is all done on my single stage press .

[Road_Clam]

Lyman's 49th was my beginners bible for my first year of reloading. I think I got it off amazon for $20. Best dam handloading investment period. I had the manual before I even got my press kit as I was not quite sure what type I wanted.

[Rangerrich99]

Bullet loading trays - http://ads.midwayusa.com/product/110...nd-plastic-red

I'd recommend at least two to start with; I have 5 now.

Case prep tool - http://www.amazon.com/Lyman-Case-Pre...case+prep+tool

I use a Lyman, but pretty much everyone makes one. You won't use the chamfer/deburring tools for pistol reloading, but the primer pocket cleaning bits will come in handy.

Check weights - I'm pretty sure everyone makes check weights and I'm not sure you have to spend real money on them; they are all probably about the same. Just get them and use them.

Also, if you're going to load .38/357, you should consider cast bullets as they are typically cheaper than plated/jacketed bullets.

Side note: I have been reloading now for just over one year now, so I've got a couple bits of unsolicited advice: One, EXPECT to make mistakes; double and if you're uncertain, triple check your work. You're guaranteed to make a few out-of-spec bullets; double checking every step can prevent most mistakes from being unhealthy.

Two, ANY step that involves primers or gunpowder unequivocally requires eye and ear protection. It might seem silly at first, but trust me even just a primer detonation is very loud in a closed room. I haven't detonated any gun powder yet (knock on my wooden head), but I imagine that would be louder.

Three, whatever powder you're using at the time should be placed somewhere on the workbench in plain sight, and should stay there until you're done reloading your last bullet. No other powder should ever be sitting on your table top, lest you somehow forget which one you're using.

[SARuger]

Bullet loading trays - http://ads.midwayusa.com/product/110...nd-plastic-red

I'd recommend at least two to start with; I have 5 now.

Case prep tool - http://www.amazon.com/Lyman-Case-Pre...case+prep+tool

I use a Lyman, but pretty much everyone makes one. You won't use the chamfer/deburring tools for pistol reloading, but the primer pocket cleaning bits will come in handy.

Check weights - I'm pretty sure everyone makes check weights and I'm not sure you have to spend real money on them; they are all probably about the same. Just get them and use them.

Also, if you're going to load .38/357, you should consider cast bullets as they are typically cheaper than plated/jacketed bullets.

Side note: I have been reloading now for just over one year now, so I've got a couple bits of unsolicited advice: One, EXPECT to make mistakes; double and if you're uncertain, triple check your work. You're guaranteed to make a few out-of-spec bullets; double checking every step can prevent most mistakes from being unhealthy.

Two, ANY step that involves primers or gunpowder unequivocally requires eye and ear protection. It might seem silly at first, but trust me even just a primer detonation is very loud in a closed room. I haven't detonated any gun powder yet (knock on my wooden head), but I imagine that would be louder.

Three, whatever powder you're using at the time should be placed somewhere on the workbench in plain sight, and should stay there until you're done reloading your last bullet. No other powder should ever be sitting on your table top, lest you somehow forget which one you're using.

Very good advice! Thank You!

[Road_Clam]

Not only do I keep the current bottle of powder near my powder dispenser, but I also write the description on a piece of masking tape and stick it to the hopper lid just as a second reference. Same method for my current load recipie, write everything down so if you have to stop your loading for several days you still have your load data.

[SARuger]

First rounds loaded today, range tomorrow.

My bench, inside of my gun vault

[Metal god]

Very nice , looks good and I see you have what you need there . Hope all goes well tomorrow . What will you be testing ?

[SARuger]

Very nice , looks good and I see you have what you need there . Hope all goes well tomorrow . What will you be testing ?

I'm shooting some 158g Sierra JSP loaded in .38spcl brass with 4.7g of Unique. I will be using my Security Six. I weighed every charge just like a newb should

The only issues will be with my crimp. Some crimped just right and some I had to tighten the crimp up on and hit them a second time. Some seem loose, others felt too tight.

I'm using the LEE 4 die set for the .38/.357

[Metal god]

Did you use mixed brass ( mixed head stamps ) ? If so I'd say that was your crimp issue . I had the same issue when I used mixed brass . If the case walls are thinner then others the crimp will come out lighter . I should add that my issue was with 45acp , I don't load for any wheel guns