Solvents, Oils, Preservatives. Gun cleaning help, please.

Pep in CA · August 13, 2017, 03:22 AM

I've used CLP and I've used Balistol as solvents. I also have a bottle of gun oil that the salesman at my gun store told me I should use but I don't really know what it is, other than some sort of gun oil.

I use Rig grease on external metal parts of my long guns, i.e. barrels and receivers. They look great and seem to hold up.

But neither CLP nor Balistol seem to disolve carbon buildup the way I think they should. I have to scrub quite a bit to remove the carbon.

I'm looking for a new solvent. I've never tried Hoppe's #9. Maybe I should.

Your thoughts on solvents?

JimPage · August 13, 2017, 06:43 AM

I have used carburater cleaning solvent with good results.

Hal · August 13, 2017, 08:23 AM

I've had great luck with a piece of Lead-Away cloth.

Only on stainless or nickel though.

It will attack bluing.

pat701 · August 13, 2017, 08:29 AM

I have used generic brake cleaner, and Kroil (for lead build up) for 16 years now. Long range, high power shooters use Kroil to clean their long guns. You will have to google up Kroil in firearms to get more info, i don't have the time to write it here. Try both with what you are doing already.

JimPage · August 13, 2017, 08:39 AM

Kroil is good stuff!

Dufus · August 13, 2017, 08:48 AM

Carbon is the most tenacious fouling that you will encounter.

Most commercial carbon cleaners are essentially soap & water, but the commercial cleaners have a few more secret ingredients to justify the cost of the product.

I have used Bore Tech C4 with some success. It has to be applied, allowed to soak, then scrubbed.....with repeated applications.

Also, some commercial automotive solvents such as injector cleaners can remove carbon by the same technique as described with the Bore Tech C4.

You have to be very cautious with the injector cleaners and wear protection and do it outside since those chemicals are volatile.

As I said and to reemphasize, carbon is the toughest of all fouling to remove so you have to work on it to remove it.

IME, Hoppe's #9 will not work on carbon no matter who says what.

50 shooter · August 13, 2017, 11:29 AM

I split it up, I like using Boretech Eliminator for copper fouling even though they say it will cut carbon also. For carbon I like using Slip2000 Carbon Killer, used one after another it doesn't take long to clean your barrel.

The thing with Boretech is it's a surfectant and after running some down your barrel, you need to let it sit for a few minutes to do its work. Or you can plug your barrel and let it sit overnight, run a jag down it and check it.

Mike38 · August 13, 2017, 07:45 PM

Nothing in my gun room other than good old Hoppe's #9 and half a quart of 5w20 synthetic motor oil. Been that way for 20+ years and it will be that way until the day I die.

**JohnKSa** · August 13, 2017, 07:59 PM

Hoppes Elite and MPro7 work very well on carbon.

gwpercle · August 13, 2017, 08:11 PM

Hoppe's #9 is an old school solvent , it does the job but be careful with it on plastic's.
It does have the #9 smell.
Hoppe's Elite Gun cleaner is not as aggressive, removes carbon , is safe for plastic guns and doesn't have much of a smell. However the stuff is pricey .
Now if you are looking for an old school , use on steel guns , cleaner and bore solvent that you can make a gallon of for less than $20.00 it's called " Ed's Red Bore Cleaner" this was developed by C. E. "Ed" Harris , this is my serious cleaner for bore and exterior.

1 part Dexron IV (or later) GM Automatic Transmission Fluid (not synthetic ATF)
1 part deodorized K-1 Kerosene
1 part Aliphatic Mineral Spirits ( low or no odor is best)
1 part Acetone ( some leave out the acetone but it really helps remove carbon)

I buy a quart of each item at wally mart, it makes a gallon for less than $20.00 and will clean like nobody's business. Because of the acetone do not let it stand on wooden stock finishes or some plastics . The stuff doesn't harm a toothbrush , my scrubbing tool of choice .

Use solvents for cleaning and oils for lubrication the Clean Lube Protectants CLP try to do it all but usually fall short. Believe it or not , 1 part ATF + 1 part K-1 kerosene is a good lubricant and a very decent CLP . I call it the poor mans CLP.
Gary

AzShooter · August 13, 2017, 08:38 PM

M-Pro 7 is my choice as a cleaner, then I use Brian Enos's Slide Glide on the bolt or in the interior of my revolver and some Lucus Oil. For my compensator I use Slip 2000 to get the lead out.

Pep in CA · August 14, 2017, 01:23 AM

As always, thanks for the tips and info.

50 shooter · August 14, 2017, 01:46 AM

One other thing about Boretech and Slip2000, their products are non hazardous and safe to use indoors.

That's the best part about advances in the gun industry and that includes cleaning products. Don't get me wrong, I like to use some of these other cleaners. Alot of them smell horrendously terrible and will probably knock you out if used in an enclosed space. Not to mention the fact that your significant other won't be happy having to smell it.

Be safe!

HiBC · August 14, 2017, 04:38 AM

I just don't care to go look up sources and quotes right now,whether you believe me or not does not matter.Whatever makes you happy!
Firearms stainless typically contains sulphur for machinability.
Its not happy with chlorinated hydrocarbons such as Brake Clean and Carb Cleaner.
I'll use it for a specific degrease job,like cold blue touch up,but I generally avoid using it. I will not put it in a stainless bore.

I do have a small touch up type spray paint gun,Binks style. For flushing something clean I may use it with lacquer thinner.

FITASC · August 14, 2017, 07:57 AM

You want NON-chlorinated brake cleaner - which most of them are now, if you're going that route. A can runs about $3. Be aware, that it is not always friendly to some plastics, but is great for cleaning the bores of rifles and shotguns.

Longhorn1986 · August 14, 2017, 09:29 AM

"Hoppe's #9 is an old school solvent , it does the job but be careful with it on plastic's."

And don't use it on nickle-plated firearms. It'll dissolve the copper under the nickle plate.

cw308 · August 14, 2017, 02:35 PM

Pep in CA
Im a benchrest shooter 308 cal. I to have tried many cleaners , after having a barrel change I asked the gunsmith what they recommended , KG - 1 for carbon & KG - 12 for copper. After using the KG - 1 dry patch then I use the old faithful Hoppe's #9 bore solvent then dry patch . l shoot once a week so I keep my bore dry , no oil . Never shoot high power with oil in the barrel. Also the KG stuff has no oder , can clean indoors with the windows closed.

Pep in CA · August 14, 2017, 07:08 PM

It seems, as always, that trial & error is the best method, but one should also consider the advice from those with experience. Such is the case here and I appreciate the advice given.

That being said, I am going to try M-Pro 7 Gun Cleaner next. I just ordered some from Amazon.

For a lubricant and protectant, I'm staying with Rig grease. It is the only cleaning product that I can say I'm impressed with so far. Also, although I admire the ingenuity of home-made products, I am not ready to go that route.

I will let you know how well M-Pro 7 works compared to CLP and Ballistol.

Cheers.

Dufus · August 14, 2017, 08:39 PM

We all learn by trial.....there are no errors in cleaning other than using the stuff outside of what it was designed for.

Don't mix them up. Dry your barrel before using something else.

I will not use an abrasive cleaner for anything. I will not use something that has ammonia in it.

Pick something and try it, see if it works for you.

Over 55 years I have tried most of them and have settled on a few.

Pep in CA · August 14, 2017, 09:24 PM

Bravo, Dufus. I agree. I am willing to try new cleaning products but none that reviewers say cause any damage.

I should elaborate. The carbon build-up I mentioned is actually on my revolver ... where the barrel meets the frame. Neither CLP nor Ballistol dissolved the build up and I eventually used a flat head screwdriver to scape it off. Not good.

Since I've only used CLP or Ballistol on all my guns, I wondered how much carbon residue I've left behind in the barrels of my long guns. I now presume it is a lot but I don't know.

Gotta try something different. Trial and error at best.

Cheers.

Scorch · August 14, 2017, 11:59 PM

CLP and Ballistol are both poor excuses for gun solvents. For carbon removal, Hoppe Elite, or Boretech are better at carbon removal, and Gunzilla is a good cleaner/lubricant is you just gotta have it all in one.

Hal · August 15, 2017, 05:26 AM

Quote:

there are no errors in cleaning other than using the stuff outside of what it was designed for.

I see a lot of people jump on the Ed's Red bandwagon & I just shake my head.
It's not like using a product designed for cleaning guns costs a million bucks.

A can of Ballistol lasts me about a year.....

Dufus · August 15, 2017, 08:53 AM

^^^^^
Excellent post, Hal. I couldn't agree more.

dahermit · August 15, 2017, 09:20 AM

Quote:

It's not like using a product designed for cleaning guns costs a million bucks.

It is formulated to be a gun cleaner, designed to sell whether or not it is any more effective at doing such compared to other products and sometimes less so.

P5 Guy · August 15, 2017, 09:53 AM

Kano Labs Kroil get most all the fouling and lead out for me. If it slides it gets a dab of axel grease, if it spins it gets a drop of lightweight synthetic motor oil.
Storage not at my house, guns get regular range trips and I don't have scores of firearms.

August 13, 2017, 03:22 AM	#1
Pep in CA Senior Member Join Date: May 3, 2016 Posts: 191	Solvents, Oils, Preservatives. Gun cleaning help, please. I've used CLP and I've used Balistol as solvents. I also have a bottle of gun oil that the salesman at my gun store told me I should use but I don't really know what it is, other than some sort of gun oil. I use Rig grease on external metal parts of my long guns, i.e. barrels and receivers. They look great and seem to hold up. But neither CLP nor Balistol seem to disolve carbon buildup the way I think they should. I have to scrub quite a bit to remove the carbon. I'm looking for a new solvent. I've never tried Hoppe's #9. Maybe I should. Your thoughts on solvents?

August 13, 2017, 06:43 AM	#2
JimPage Senior Member Join Date: February 21, 2010 Location: Rome, NY Posts: 941	I have used carburater cleaning solvent with good results. __________________ Jim Page Cogito, ergo armatum sum

August 13, 2017, 08:39 AM	#5
JimPage Senior Member Join Date: February 21, 2010 Location: Rome, NY Posts: 941	Kroil is good stuff! __________________ Jim Page Cogito, ergo armatum sum

August 13, 2017, 11:29 AM	#7
50 shooter Senior Member Join Date: August 6, 2002 Location: SoCal PRK Posts: 986	I split it up, I like using Boretech Eliminator for copper fouling even though they say it will cut carbon also. For carbon I like using Slip2000 Carbon Killer, used one after another it doesn't take long to clean your barrel. The thing with Boretech is it's a surfectant and after running some down your barrel, you need to let it sit for a few minutes to do its work. Or you can plug your barrel and let it sit overnight, run a jag down it and check it. __________________ I see the world thru bloodshot eyes Streets filled with blood from distant lies The dogs of war never compromise, No time for rearranging.

August 14, 2017, 01:46 AM	#13
50 shooter Senior Member Join Date: August 6, 2002 Location: SoCal PRK Posts: 986	One other thing about Boretech and Slip2000, their products are non hazardous and safe to use indoors. That's the best part about advances in the gun industry and that includes cleaning products. Don't get me wrong, I like to use some of these other cleaners. Alot of them smell horrendously terrible and will probably knock you out if used in an enclosed space. Not to mention the fact that your significant other won't be happy having to smell it. Be safe! __________________ I see the world thru bloodshot eyes Streets filled with blood from distant lies The dogs of war never compromise, No time for rearranging. Last edited by 50 shooter; August 14, 2017 at 01:53 AM.

August 13, 2017, 08:23 AM	#3
Hal Senior Member Join Date: October 9, 1998 Location: Ohio USA Posts: 8,563	I've had great luck with a piece of Lead-Away cloth. Only on stainless or nickel though. It will attack bluing.

August 13, 2017, 08:29 AM	#4
pat701 Senior Member Join Date: November 6, 2005 Location: South west Missouri Posts: 315	I have used generic brake cleaner, and Kroil (for lead build up) for 16 years now. Long range, high power shooters use Kroil to clean their long guns. You will have to google up Kroil in firearms to get more info, i don't have the time to write it here. Try both with what you are doing already.

August 13, 2017, 08:48 AM	#6
Dufus Senior Member Join Date: December 10, 2014 Posts: 1,965	Carbon is the most tenacious fouling that you will encounter. Most commercial carbon cleaners are essentially soap & water, but the commercial cleaners have a few more secret ingredients to justify the cost of the product. I have used Bore Tech C4 with some success. It has to be applied, allowed to soak, then scrubbed.....with repeated applications. Also, some commercial automotive solvents such as injector cleaners can remove carbon by the same technique as described with the Bore Tech C4. You have to be very cautious with the injector cleaners and wear protection and do it outside since those chemicals are volatile. As I said and to reemphasize, carbon is the toughest of all fouling to remove so you have to work on it to remove it. IME, Hoppe's #9 will not work on carbon no matter who says what.

August 13, 2017, 07:45 PM	#8
Mike38 Senior Member Join Date: December 28, 2009 Location: North Central Illinois Posts: 2,710	Nothing in my gun room other than good old Hoppe's #9 and half a quart of 5w20 synthetic motor oil. Been that way for 20+ years and it will be that way until the day I die.

August 13, 2017, 07:59 PM	#9
JohnKSa Staff Join Date: February 12, 2001 Location: DFW Area Posts: 24,993	Hoppes Elite and MPro7 work very well on carbon. __________________ Do you know about the TEXAS State Rifle Association?

August 13, 2017, 08:11 PM	#10
gwpercle Senior Member Join Date: November 30, 2012 Location: Baton Rouge, Louisiana Posts: 1,752	Hoppe's #9 is an old school solvent , it does the job but be careful with it on plastic's. It does have the #9 smell. Hoppe's Elite Gun cleaner is not as aggressive, removes carbon , is safe for plastic guns and doesn't have much of a smell. However the stuff is pricey . Now if you are looking for an old school , use on steel guns , cleaner and bore solvent that you can make a gallon of for less than $20.00 it's called " Ed's Red Bore Cleaner" this was developed by C. E. "Ed" Harris , this is my serious cleaner for bore and exterior. 1 part Dexron IV (or later) GM Automatic Transmission Fluid (not synthetic ATF) 1 part deodorized K-1 Kerosene 1 part Aliphatic Mineral Spirits ( low or no odor is best) 1 part Acetone ( some leave out the acetone but it really helps remove carbon) I buy a quart of each item at wally mart, it makes a gallon for less than $20.00 and will clean like nobody's business. Because of the acetone do not let it stand on wooden stock finishes or some plastics . The stuff doesn't harm a toothbrush , my scrubbing tool of choice . Use solvents for cleaning and oils for lubrication the Clean Lube Protectants CLP try to do it all but usually fall short. Believe it or not , 1 part ATF + 1 part K-1 kerosene is a good lubricant and a very decent CLP . I call it the poor mans CLP. Gary

August 13, 2017, 08:38 PM	#11
AzShooter Senior Member Join Date: June 20, 2006 Location: Surprise, Az. Posts: 766	M-Pro 7 is my choice as a cleaner, then I use Brian Enos's Slide Glide on the bolt or in the interior of my revolver and some Lucus Oil. For my compensator I use Slip 2000 to get the lead out.

August 14, 2017, 01:23 AM	#12
Pep in CA Senior Member Join Date: May 3, 2016 Posts: 191	As always, thanks for the tips and info.

August 14, 2017, 04:38 AM	#14
HiBC Senior Member Join Date: November 13, 2006 Posts: 8,288	I just don't care to go look up sources and quotes right now,whether you believe me or not does not matter.Whatever makes you happy! Firearms stainless typically contains sulphur for machinability. Its not happy with chlorinated hydrocarbons such as Brake Clean and Carb Cleaner. I'll use it for a specific degrease job,like cold blue touch up,but I generally avoid using it. I will not put it in a stainless bore. I do have a small touch up type spray paint gun,Binks style. For flushing something clean I may use it with lacquer thinner.

August 14, 2017, 07:57 AM	#15
FITASC Senior Member Join Date: December 6, 2014 Posts: 6,446	You want NON-chlorinated brake cleaner - which most of them are now, if you're going that route. A can runs about $3. Be aware, that it is not always friendly to some plastics, but is great for cleaning the bores of rifles and shotguns. __________________ "I believe that people have a right to decide their own destinies; people own themselves. I also believe that, in a democracy, government exists because (and only so long as) individual citizens give it a 'temporary license to exist'—in exchange for a promise that it will behave itself. In a democracy, you own the government—it doesn't own you."- Frank Zappa

August 14, 2017, 09:29 AM	#16
Longhorn1986 Senior Member Join Date: July 12, 2016 Location: Fort Bend County, Texas Posts: 173	"Hoppe's #9 is an old school solvent , it does the job but be careful with it on plastic's." And don't use it on nickle-plated firearms. It'll dissolve the copper under the nickle plate.

August 14, 2017, 02:35 PM	#17
cw308 Senior Member Join Date: September 2, 2010 Location: Plainview , Long Island NY Posts: 3,863	Pep in CA Im a benchrest shooter 308 cal. I to have tried many cleaners , after having a barrel change I asked the gunsmith what they recommended , KG - 1 for carbon & KG - 12 for copper. After using the KG - 1 dry patch then I use the old faithful Hoppe's #9 bore solvent then dry patch . l shoot once a week so I keep my bore dry , no oil . Never shoot high power with oil in the barrel. Also the KG stuff has no oder , can clean indoors with the windows closed.

August 14, 2017, 07:08 PM	#18
Pep in CA Senior Member Join Date: May 3, 2016 Posts: 191	It seems, as always, that trial & error is the best method, but one should also consider the advice from those with experience. Such is the case here and I appreciate the advice given. That being said, I am going to try M-Pro 7 Gun Cleaner next. I just ordered some from Amazon. For a lubricant and protectant, I'm staying with Rig grease. It is the only cleaning product that I can say I'm impressed with so far. Also, although I admire the ingenuity of home-made products, I am not ready to go that route. I will let you know how well M-Pro 7 works compared to CLP and Ballistol. Cheers.

August 14, 2017, 08:39 PM	#19
Dufus Senior Member Join Date: December 10, 2014 Posts: 1,965	We all learn by trial.....there are no errors in cleaning other than using the stuff outside of what it was designed for. Don't mix them up. Dry your barrel before using something else. I will not use an abrasive cleaner for anything. I will not use something that has ammonia in it. Pick something and try it, see if it works for you. Over 55 years I have tried most of them and have settled on a few.

August 14, 2017, 09:24 PM	#20
Pep in CA Senior Member Join Date: May 3, 2016 Posts: 191	Bravo, Dufus. I agree. I am willing to try new cleaning products but none that reviewers say cause any damage. I should elaborate. The carbon build-up I mentioned is actually on my revolver ... where the barrel meets the frame. Neither CLP nor Ballistol dissolved the build up and I eventually used a flat head screwdriver to scape it off. Not good. Since I've only used CLP or Ballistol on all my guns, I wondered how much carbon residue I've left behind in the barrels of my long guns. I now presume it is a lot but I don't know. Gotta try something different. Trial and error at best. Cheers.

August 14, 2017, 11:59 PM	#21
Scorch Senior Member Join Date: February 13, 2006 Location: Washington state Posts: 15,248	CLP and Ballistol are both poor excuses for gun solvents. For carbon removal, Hoppe Elite, or Boretech are better at carbon removal, and Gunzilla is a good cleaner/lubricant is you just gotta have it all in one. __________________ Never try to educate someone who resists knowledge at all costs. But what do I know? Summit Arms Services

August 15, 2017, 08:53 AM	#23
Dufus Senior Member Join Date: December 10, 2014 Posts: 1,965	^^^^^ Excellent post, Hal. I couldn't agree more.

August 15, 2017, 09:53 AM	#25
P5 Guy Senior Member Join Date: December 1, 2005 Location: Tampa Bay Posts: 1,804	Kano Labs Kroil get most all the fouling and lead out for me. If it slides it gets a dab of axel grease, if it spins it gets a drop of lightweight synthetic motor oil. Storage not at my house, guns get regular range trips and I don't have scores of firearms.