May 26, 2008, 07:58 PM | #1 |
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First cast
I didn't see an area for casting so I hope this belongs here. I cast my first bullets today. The mold is Lyman 452460, 200 grain SWC. I cast with a Lee 10# bottom pour pot that a friend gave me.
I had trouble getting the mold up to temp so I figured I would cast a few to heat up the mold. Here was my first attempt. I changed the way I was pouring and also started to let the bullets cool more in the mold before I opened it to dump them out. These are the bullets from when I let them cool longer. Over all it seems like another great hobby to go along with shooting and reloading. It sure will make shooting affordable. All of these bullets were made with free wheel weights. I have a little bit tied up in equipment but the savings will make up for that in no time. I figure casting my own bullets it will cost me $3 per 100 45ACP. Could be a little less. Rusty
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May 26, 2008, 11:31 PM | #2 |
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Your first casts had the lead or the mold too cool. I use a LOT of wheelweights but sometimes I add a little tin if the molds don't fill out perfectly. Some of your later cast "seem" to look like you have rounded areas at the grease groove, which again is probably the temp. Set the thermostat a little higher. Wheel weights are of "questionable" make up, but generally cast just fine. Lyman molds are steel and generally take quite a while to get up to the proper temp to put out great bullets. Be patient and great luck.
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May 26, 2008, 11:50 PM | #3 |
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Any time you see wrinkles or dimples in your bullets, the mold is too cold. When they start to get a "frosted" look, the temp is too high. Your first casting will almost always be too cool, so set those bullets in the "remelt" pile, along with the sprues. I used to cast 3 or 4 pours to make sure the mold is up to temp before I would keep any bullets.
Some of the rest of your bullets look OK, but it looks like you aren't filling out the lube grooves completely. This generally means undersized bullets that will lead the bore of your gun. Make sure the lube grooves are sharp in the corners.
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May 27, 2008, 03:33 AM | #4 |
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Addicting isn't it? I recently started scrounging range lead. Hard work and equally difficult smelting due to the all of the copper jackets that pile up. Pay off is that a local salvage yard will give me a $1.00 for the copper and sell me WW's for .18 a pound. Have fun with your new hobby.
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May 27, 2008, 05:41 PM | #5 |
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Thanks for the advice. The casting pot was at 725 degrees. How much higher than that should I go? I also read some where that somebody added 95/5 solder to the pot. They added about 3 feet to a 20# pot. I was going to get some solder and try that. Any other suggestion are greatly appreciated.
Rusty
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May 27, 2008, 08:54 PM | #6 |
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Hooked
every where you go you`ll be lookin down for a stray!!!!!!!!!!!!!
i wish my first attempts looked as good the most $$ spent now will be primers welcome to the brotherhood of the silver stream!!!!!!!!! GP100man## |
May 28, 2008, 12:45 AM | #7 | |
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Quote:
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May 28, 2008, 01:24 AM | #8 |
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I've got that same boolit mould, but with a bevel base--shoots good.
Three feet of solder is more than you need for a 20 pound pot. I generally add only around a foot or so max. As far as temperature goes, with the larger boolits, I like to run the pot a bit hotter--up around 800 to 850 degrees. Light frosting doesn't hurt the boolits, but poor fillout will. Good piece of equipment to have is a thermometer--check this place out for a thermometer that is far better than Lyman's or RCBS's and for less than half the price. https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.a...item=21-1616-R I reckon you've already found the Cast Boolits website/forum? Awesome bunch of casters, loaders and shooters over there. Jeff
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May 28, 2008, 04:45 PM | #9 | |
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Quote:
Rusty
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