Broken Handle Retaining Screw

jimgiven · July 3, 2009, 09:56 AM

Help guys....bought a RCBS mold off Craigslist....it had the handles with it. Problem is that when I looked the handle retaining screw is broken... You guys have any experience with getting them out?

Apprech your help,
Jim

Sevens · July 3, 2009, 12:58 PM

Your solution couldn't be easier-- call or e-mail RCBS and you'll be pleasantly surprised at how well they back their equipment. It would be a very odd thing if RCBS didn't simply send you all the parts you need, free of charge, ASAP. That's pretty much the reputation of their warranty and customer assistance, even if you bought it at a garage sale. I suppose there's a chance they ask you to pay shipping, but you'll find out.

jimgiven · July 3, 2009, 01:23 PM

Thank you.....but the screw is broken off IN the mold. It is not reachable. I thought I would have to use a hacksaw on either side of the handle bar, but the screw would still be in the mold. So not sure what I can do. Thoughts Stevens?

Jim

Sevens · July 3, 2009, 01:48 PM

Same thought is all I can provide. If it's screwed and needs some home engineering, you might get help from someone more handy than me. But I think you are cheating yourself if you don't at least hear what RCBS has to say about it. You might be happily surprised. And relaying the experience here, positive or negative, is a good service to all who read this forum.

jimgiven · July 3, 2009, 02:50 PM

Thank you Stevens...i will call them...if I can get thru. LOL

Will let everyone else know what they say. Some one pm'ed and said to drill and use an easyout....I would be afraid, as this is a very small diameter screw.

Jim

JMtoolman · July 5, 2009, 08:36 AM

If the head of he screw is broken off while the body of the screw is still in the mold blocks, here is the way to remove it. Carefully center punch the screw body, right in the center of the broken screw. Not too hard for you dont want to deform the threads lower down on the screw or the blocks. Then in a drill press, drill a 1/16 inch hole in the screw about a 1/4 inch deep. Take a small diameter easy out, (this is a tapered square shaped tool that is hardened , sometimes with a left hand twist). A couple of light taps and the edges will dig into the hole, then the unit is used to unscrew the broken piece out. That is all there is to removing it. Best of luck, John the Toolman.

**Unclenick** · July 5, 2009, 10:16 AM

Well, unless RCBS changed their mold design since I bought mine over 20 years ago, you've got yourself a dandy of a problem. Striking that screw with a file tells me it is well-hardened, so attempting to drill it without a carbide drill is likely to be futile. Same for a hack saw. You'd need a Dremel cutoff wheel. Sometimes you can shatter a hardened screw with an automatic center punch, and keep repeating and dumping the chips out until you get past the threads. The tip would then fall out. Given how soft the mold iron is, you may need to get a tap for the hole after that kind of whacking to clean the threads up from deformation. It looks like 8-36 or 8-40 or some other extra fine thread. I can measure it if you need to know (PM me), but just asking RCBS is simpler.

Is there any chance the allen head socket is simply worn loose but not gone? If so, an easy-out or a Grabit might still get it? It depends how far in it is?

When you call RCBS, ask if you can just send the mold to them for repair? They will likely either replace it or drill out and sleeve the threaded side. If it were my mold I would drill it out and probably just turn a special screw for a new, larger thread size on my lathe. The tricky part would be cutting new threads into the soft mold block without distorting it. Likely to be a slow, slow, cut tapping process with very frequent backing out and chip removal.

jimgiven · July 6, 2009, 07:59 AM

Thank you for the replies....worse news...not RCBS, Lyman. Took it out this weekend to look at it again. The RCBS one is still good. Lyman one is bad. I think if you guys agree, maybe just leave it in there for ever... Meaning that I will not take those handles off. Is there a problem if that side of the mold is very loose? Screw is half in one part of that side of the mold....missing on the other side of same mold side. Let me know...and thx guys!

Jim

Sport45 · July 6, 2009, 08:36 AM

Same advice you got before...

Give Lyman a call and see if they'll repair it under waranty.

jimgiven · July 6, 2009, 09:18 AM

Spoke to Lyman....no warranty help. They did say that I would have to completely drill it out and retap the hole. Can not use as it is. Will eventually damage the mold block and retaining pins creating bad bullets. They said I would not be able to drill and use an Easy Out either.. Hope this helps others.

Jim

**Unclenick** · July 6, 2009, 10:06 AM

Jim,

The Lyman screw (again, if it is the same as the old ones I bought new years ago), is different from the RCBS in that it's insertion depth is fixed by its head and not by the tip touching down on the bottom of a blind hole. For that reason, the sprue plate could be removed and a hole drilled from the top side until you get to the tip of the screw. A small, clockwise-turning drill may then drive the screw out from below. When the mold is used, the sprue plate will cover the hole, so no lead will get in.

My Lyman screws are not as hard as my RCBS screws (a file marks them), and I think a cobalt drill from Lowe's will probably work on it. Drill with a 1/16" drill until it makes a shallow hole in the screw tip, then run a 5/64" drill in to grab the edges of that hole and turn the screw out by driving it forward. The main issue will be getting the drill to go in nearly perfectly centered to match the hole location from the other side. It is best done with a milling machine or even with a good, square drill press that has a vice you can locate the blocks with.

Personally, I would use a height gauge on a surface plate to make crossed locating scratches on the top side to get the hole centered. I would also use an optical center punch over the scratches to get a light starting indentation accurately located. Those are not likely to be tools you have on hand, but if you approach the machine shop teacher at the local vocational school with the right bribe, you might be able to get it done that way?

If you take that approach, soak the mold in penetrating oil for two or three days before you try to do it so the screw will back out easily. Spraying every twelve hours with PB Blaster for that period will do it. That will insure no oxide or other binding can't be broken loose if it needs to be.

jimgiven · July 6, 2009, 01:35 PM

Wow...Unclenick...thx. Sounds like you have had some fun doing this kind of thing before. Will give it a go...my brother in law owns a machine shop.

Thx,
Jim

Sport45 · July 6, 2009, 08:10 PM

Grainger sells left-hand drill bits. I use them when drilling broken bolts and find the bolt will often back out on the bit without needing to use the extractor.

When I broke the handle on my old Lyman 55 powder measure they replaced the large drum and shipped it back to me for about $25. Much less than the cost of replacing the measure.

July 3, 2009, 09:56 AM	#1
jimgiven Member Join Date: May 13, 2009 Location: Peoples' Republic of Corzinistan Posts: 20	Broken Handle Retaining Screw Help guys....bought a RCBS mold off Craigslist....it had the handles with it. Problem is that when I looked the handle retaining screw is broken... You guys have any experience with getting them out? Apprech your help, Jim __________________ Best, Jim Given Take your kids hunting before you have to hunt for your kids!!!

July 3, 2009, 12:58 PM	#2
Sevens Senior Member Join Date: July 28, 2007 Location: Ohio Posts: 11,756	Your solution couldn't be easier-- call or e-mail RCBS and you'll be pleasantly surprised at how well they back their equipment. It would be a very odd thing if RCBS didn't simply send you all the parts you need, free of charge, ASAP. That's pretty much the reputation of their warranty and customer assistance, even if you bought it at a garage sale. I suppose there's a chance they ask you to pay shipping, but you'll find out. __________________ *Attention Brass rats and other reloaders:* I really need .327 Federal Magnum brass, no lot size too small. Tell me what caliber you need and I'll see what I have to swap. PM me and we'll discuss.

July 3, 2009, 01:23 PM	#3
jimgiven Member Join Date: May 13, 2009 Location: Peoples' Republic of Corzinistan Posts: 20	Thank you.....but the screw is broken off IN the mold. It is not reachable. I thought I would have to use a hacksaw on either side of the handle bar, but the screw would still be in the mold. So not sure what I can do. Thoughts Stevens? Jim __________________ Best, Jim Given Take your kids hunting before you have to hunt for your kids!!!

July 3, 2009, 01:48 PM	#4
Sevens Senior Member Join Date: July 28, 2007 Location: Ohio Posts: 11,756	Same thought is all I can provide. If it's screwed and needs some home engineering, you might get help from someone more handy than me. But I think you are cheating yourself if you don't at least hear what RCBS has to say about it. You might be happily surprised. And relaying the experience here, positive or negative, is a good service to all who read this forum. __________________ *Attention Brass rats and other reloaders:* I really need .327 Federal Magnum brass, no lot size too small. Tell me what caliber you need and I'll see what I have to swap. PM me and we'll discuss.

July 3, 2009, 02:50 PM	#5
jimgiven Member Join Date: May 13, 2009 Location: Peoples' Republic of Corzinistan Posts: 20	Thank you Stevens...i will call them...if I can get thru. LOL Will let everyone else know what they say. Some one pm'ed and said to drill and use an easyout....I would be afraid, as this is a very small diameter screw. Jim __________________ Best, Jim Given Take your kids hunting before you have to hunt for your kids!!!

July 5, 2009, 08:36 AM	#6
JMtoolman Junior Member Join Date: May 19, 2009 Posts: 8	broken screw If the head of he screw is broken off while the body of the screw is still in the mold blocks, here is the way to remove it. Carefully center punch the screw body, right in the center of the broken screw. Not too hard for you dont want to deform the threads lower down on the screw or the blocks. Then in a drill press, drill a 1/16 inch hole in the screw about a 1/4 inch deep. Take a small diameter easy out, (this is a tapered square shaped tool that is hardened , sometimes with a left hand twist). A couple of light taps and the edges will dig into the hole, then the unit is used to unscrew the broken piece out. That is all there is to removing it. Best of luck, John the Toolman.

July 5, 2009, 10:16 AM	#7
Unclenick Staff Join Date: March 4, 2005 Location: Ohio Posts: 21,063	Well, unless RCBS changed their mold design since I bought mine over 20 years ago, you've got yourself a dandy of a problem. Striking that screw with a file tells me it is well-hardened, so attempting to drill it without a carbide drill is likely to be futile. Same for a hack saw. You'd need a Dremel cutoff wheel. Sometimes you can shatter a hardened screw with an automatic center punch, and keep repeating and dumping the chips out until you get past the threads. The tip would then fall out. Given how soft the mold iron is, you may need to get a tap for the hole after that kind of whacking to clean the threads up from deformation. It looks like 8-36 or 8-40 or some other extra fine thread. I can measure it if you need to know (PM me), but just asking RCBS is simpler. Is there any chance the allen head socket is simply worn loose but not gone? If so, an easy-out or a Grabit might still get it? It depends how far in it is? When you call RCBS, ask if you can just send the mold to them for repair? They will likely either replace it or drill out and sleeve the threaded side. If it were my mold I would drill it out and probably just turn a special screw for a new, larger thread size on my lathe. The tricky part would be cutting new threads into the soft mold block without distorting it. Likely to be a slow, slow, cut tapping process with very frequent backing out and chip removal. __________________ Gunsite Orange Hat Family Member CMP Certified GSM Master Instructor NRA Certified Rifle Instructor NRA Benefactor Member and Golden Eagle

July 6, 2009, 07:59 AM	#8
jimgiven Member Join Date: May 13, 2009 Location: Peoples' Republic of Corzinistan Posts: 20	Thank you for the replies....worse news...not RCBS, Lyman. Took it out this weekend to look at it again. The RCBS one is still good. Lyman one is bad. I think if you guys agree, maybe just leave it in there for ever... Meaning that I will not take those handles off. Is there a problem if that side of the mold is very loose? Screw is half in one part of that side of the mold....missing on the other side of same mold side. Let me know...and thx guys! Jim __________________ Best, Jim Given Take your kids hunting before you have to hunt for your kids!!!

July 6, 2009, 08:36 AM	#9
Sport45 Senior Member Join Date: May 25, 1999 Location: Too close to Houston Posts: 4,196	Same advice you got before... Give Lyman a call and see if they'll repair it under waranty. __________________ Proud member of the NRA and Texas State Rifle Association. Registered and active voter.

July 6, 2009, 09:18 AM	#10
jimgiven Member Join Date: May 13, 2009 Location: Peoples' Republic of Corzinistan Posts: 20	Spoke to Lyman....no warranty help. They did say that I would have to completely drill it out and retap the hole. Can not use as it is. Will eventually damage the mold block and retaining pins creating bad bullets. They said I would not be able to drill and use an Easy Out either.. Hope this helps others. Jim __________________ Best, Jim Given Take your kids hunting before you have to hunt for your kids!!!

July 6, 2009, 10:06 AM	#11
Unclenick Staff Join Date: March 4, 2005 Location: Ohio Posts: 21,063	Jim, The Lyman screw (again, if it is the same as the old ones I bought new years ago), is different from the RCBS in that it's insertion depth is fixed by its head and not by the tip touching down on the bottom of a blind hole. For that reason, the sprue plate could be removed and a hole drilled from the top side until you get to the tip of the screw. A small, clockwise-turning drill may then drive the screw out from below. When the mold is used, the sprue plate will cover the hole, so no lead will get in. My Lyman screws are not as hard as my RCBS screws (a file marks them), and I think a cobalt drill from Lowe's will probably work on it. Drill with a 1/16" drill until it makes a shallow hole in the screw tip, then run a 5/64" drill in to grab the edges of that hole and turn the screw out by driving it forward. The main issue will be getting the drill to go in nearly perfectly centered to match the hole location from the other side. It is best done with a milling machine or even with a good, square drill press that has a vice you can locate the blocks with. Personally, I would use a height gauge on a surface plate to make crossed locating scratches on the top side to get the hole centered. I would also use an optical center punch over the scratches to get a light starting indentation accurately located. Those are not likely to be tools you have on hand, but if you approach the machine shop teacher at the local vocational school with the right bribe, you might be able to get it done that way? If you take that approach, soak the mold in penetrating oil for two or three days before you try to do it so the screw will back out easily. Spraying every twelve hours with PB Blaster for that period will do it. That will insure no oxide or other binding can't be broken loose if it needs to be. __________________ Gunsite Orange Hat Family Member CMP Certified GSM Master Instructor NRA Certified Rifle Instructor NRA Benefactor Member and Golden Eagle Last edited by Unclenick; July 6, 2009 at 10:15 AM. Reason: Changed drill info based on striking Lyman screws with a file

July 6, 2009, 01:35 PM	#12
jimgiven Member Join Date: May 13, 2009 Location: Peoples' Republic of Corzinistan Posts: 20	Wow...Unclenick...thx. Sounds like you have had some fun doing this kind of thing before. Will give it a go...my brother in law owns a machine shop. Thx, Jim __________________ Best, Jim Given Take your kids hunting before you have to hunt for your kids!!!

July 6, 2009, 08:10 PM	#13
Sport45 Senior Member Join Date: May 25, 1999 Location: Too close to Houston Posts: 4,196	Grainger sells left-hand drill bits. I use them when drilling broken bolts and find the bolt will often back out on the bit without needing to use the extractor. When I broke the handle on my old Lyman 55 powder measure they replaced the large drum and shipped it back to me for about $25. Much less than the cost of replacing the measure. __________________ Proud member of the NRA and Texas State Rifle Association. Registered and active voter.