How fast can I push a 9mm plated bullet?

Big Caliber · June 28, 2009, 09:33 PM

Not knowing at time, I bought some 115gr RN plated bullets for my 9mm S&W. They are not jacketed and I did not know the difference at the time.

My pistol needs a bullet velocity around 900fps to cyle properly. Is this too fast for this type of bullet? I also bought some for a 357M but will be loading them to 38sp spec's. Also, do "they" make steel rifle bullets with a copper jacket?

ZeSpectre · June 28, 2009, 10:01 PM

Depends on who's bullets they are and how thick the plating is.
For example I've pushed a .40 "Berry's Plated" just a hair over over 1,000fps but I don't think I'd take it above that after one (.357 Magnum) experiment that left the copper plating hanging out of the end of the barrel after the lead core left it behind

.

As for steel rifle bullet w/copper plating, not that I'm aware of but I'm hardly a rifle expert by any means.

D. Manley · June 28, 2009, 11:09 PM

Quote:

How fast can I push a 9mm plated bullet? --------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Not knowing at time, I bought some 115gr RN plated bullets for my 9mm S&W. They are not jacketed and I did not know the difference at the time. My pistol needs a bullet velocity around 900fps to cyle properly. Is this too fast for this type of bullet? I also bought some for a 357M but will be loading them to 38sp spec's. Also, do "they" make steel rifle bullets with a copper jacket?

There's no problem at all with using mid-range jacketed bullet data for plated bullets. In 9MM, you should be able to push them near 1200 or so if you were so inclined. I normally load the 115 plated to 1,100/1,150 'ish. More importantly is not to over-crimp them...it can ruin accuracy if the plating is cut or the bullet "squashed" by the crimp. Adjust your crimp die so that no deep indentation on a seated (then, pulled) bullet exists...a very slight "crimp ring" is perfectly fine. Crimping plated bullets is a bit more tricky in a revolver...a roll crimp can wreak havoc on them applied in the "normal" fashion.

Sport45 · June 29, 2009, 01:17 AM

Quote:

Also, do "they" make steel rifle bullets with a copper jacket?

They make rifle bullets with steel cores and they make lead core bullets with copper-washed steel jackets. Why do you ask? Are you wondering about some bullets that look copper clad but attract a magnet?

jmorris · June 29, 2009, 09:03 AM

berry's says 1200 fps. I have loaded some that came apart slower and some faster that didn't. There are more factors involved than just being plated but somewhere in that area.

oneounceload · June 29, 2009, 11:37 AM

Quote:

Velocities depend on the caliber, but as a rule of thumb, we recommend you don't shoot our plated bullets over 1200 feet-per-second. Our 44's actually shoot best around 1150 fps. 45's are generally good at 850-900 fps. Our bullets are not recommended for magnum velocities.

Quote:

Plated bullets occupy a position between cast bullets and jacketed bullets. They are soft lead, but have a hard outer shell on them. When loading plated bullets we have found best results using low- to mid-range jacketed data in the load manual. You must use data for a bullet that has the same weight and profile as the one you are loading. Do not exceed mid-range loads. Do not use magnum loads.

Both of those tidbits are from Berry's FAQ section, FWIW

Big Caliber · July 4, 2009, 12:29 PM

Thanks guys,

that does help.

Nnobby45 · July 4, 2009, 01:17 PM

Bought some plated Berry bullets for my .44 Special and had a bit of a problem at first. Had difficulty with bullets loose in the case. A call to Berry (who referred me to a consultant who knew his stuff) told me why.

The spec for the .44 Special is .429, but since the bullet is slightly tapered from .429 at the back near the base to .426 at the front, before the ogive-- only a narrow 1/8" band at the base is actually .429.

First, I asked Dillon to sent me a .44-40 expander (smaller than .44 Spl.), so that after sizing, the case would not be expanded back out to what normally would be the proper diameter for .429 bullets.

My Dillon .44 Spl die is a combination taper-roll crimp arrangement--it does both. I seated the bullets farther out so the taper crimp could better work against the larger diameter of the bullet, and crimped as much as I dared so the roll crimp would bite into the plating without destroying it. Prior to all that, I'd crimped to much, and the result was a piece of plating sticking in the digital readout display on my Pro Tach Chrono!

I backed off a little and discovered that one can put a pretty good "bite" into the plating without damaging it to the point where it comes off during shooting. Accuracy didn't seem to be affected, either.

Pushing the bullet against the bench with moderate pressure (I did'nt over do it) showed the bullet to be secure enough for my light target/practice loads.

In other words, you don't have to be paranoid about crimping the plating too much. Pulled bullets showed a pretty good ring where the roll crimp bit into the bullet. You have to know how much it can stand before destroying the plating.

Seems the bullets are of a tapered design so the lead can be more easily removed from the mould during manufacturing. Don't know what other of Berry's revolver bullets are made that way, but semi-auto bullets aren't affected.

Only had 750 bullets, and I now use a different brand of plated (X-Treme) that are uniformally .429.

June 28, 2009, 09:33 PM	#1
Big Caliber Senior Member Join Date: October 10, 2006 Location: S. CA Posts: 421	How fast can I push a 9mm plated bullet? Not knowing at time, I bought some 115gr RN plated bullets for my 9mm S&W. They are not jacketed and I did not know the difference at the time. My pistol needs a bullet velocity around 900fps to cyle properly. Is this too fast for this type of bullet? I also bought some for a 357M but will be loading them to 38sp spec's. Also, do "they" make steel rifle bullets with a copper jacket?

June 28, 2009, 10:01 PM	#2
ZeSpectre Senior Member Join Date: June 4, 2007 Location: Shenandoah Valley Posts: 3,276	Depends on who's bullets they are and how thick the plating is. For example I've pushed a .40 "Berry's Plated" just a hair over over 1,000fps but I don't think I'd take it above that after one (.357 Magnum) experiment that left the copper plating hanging out of the end of the barrel after the lead core left it behind . As for steel rifle bullet w/copper plating, not that I'm aware of but I'm hardly a rifle expert by any means. __________________ "The dogs may bark but the caravan moves on"

June 29, 2009, 09:03 AM	#5
jmorris Senior Member Join Date: November 22, 2006 Posts: 3,077	berry's says 1200 fps. I have loaded some that came apart slower and some faster that didn't. There are more factors involved than just being plated but somewhere in that area.

July 4, 2009, 12:29 PM	#7
Big Caliber Senior Member Join Date: October 10, 2006 Location: S. CA Posts: 421	Thanks guys, that does help.

July 4, 2009, 01:17 PM	#8
Nnobby45 Senior Member Join Date: November 20, 2004 Posts: 3,150	Bought some plated Berry bullets for my .44 Special and had a bit of a problem at first. Had difficulty with bullets loose in the case. A call to Berry (who referred me to a consultant who knew his stuff) told me why. The spec for the .44 Special is .429, but since the bullet is slightly tapered from .429 at the back near the base to .426 at the front, before the ogive-- only a narrow 1/8" band at the base is actually .429. First, I asked Dillon to sent me a .44-40 expander (smaller than .44 Spl.), so that after sizing, the case would not be expanded back out to what normally would be the proper diameter for .429 bullets. My Dillon .44 Spl die is a combination taper-roll crimp arrangement--it does both. I seated the bullets farther out so the taper crimp could better work against the larger diameter of the bullet, and crimped as much as I dared so the roll crimp would bite into the plating without destroying it. Prior to all that, I'd crimped to much, and the result was a piece of plating sticking in the digital readout display on my Pro Tach Chrono! I backed off a little and discovered that one can put a pretty good "bite" into the plating without damaging it to the point where it comes off during shooting. Accuracy didn't seem to be affected, either. Pushing the bullet against the bench with moderate pressure (I did'nt over do it) showed the bullet to be secure enough for my light target/practice loads. In other words, you don't have to be paranoid about crimping the plating too much. Pulled bullets showed a pretty good ring where the roll crimp bit into the bullet. You have to know how much it can stand before destroying the plating. Seems the bullets are of a tapered design so the lead can be more easily removed from the mould during manufacturing. Don't know what other of Berry's revolver bullets are made that way, but semi-auto bullets aren't affected. Only had 750 bullets, and I now use a different brand of plated (X-Treme) that are uniformally .429.